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Is an insurance company handling the repairs? If so, they might "total" the car if the repair cost is 70% of the car's value. So if the insurance company estimates the car's value at $3500, it would take damage of only $2450 to total it. In that case you would be paid the car's value, and the insurance company would take your car.
If you are paying for the repair yourself, it's up to you how much you want to spend fixing it. Consider that you can sell your car for parts (powetrain, body panels etc.) and then buy another used Civic. So factor the salvage value of your car into the equation when determining how much to spend repairing it.
The other parties insurance company is screwing me over the situation and if I do get anything, it will probably have to be over litigation. The car has been so good to me that I am hesitant to not fix it. I appreciate your input on this.
My daughter drives 99'Civic and the wiper arms are not acting right. Most of the time they (arms) park not at the bottom of the windshield but 4-5 inches up. Sometimes when she uses the maximum fast speed of the wipers they stop on the right place, otherwise when she uses intermittent regimen wipers stops above the bottom place on the windshield. Any idea why this is happen?
Anyway, the front brakes have 17k miles on them, the back brakes are original. I have no squealing and no shimmy in the brake pedal or anything. The tires are 10 years old with 22k miles on them. They don't lose air or show any signs of irregular wearing. The timing belt has not been changed. The automatic transmission has never been serviced. The CV joint are original--but they are not making any clicking sounds when turning.
The battery was replaced (at the Honda dealer) about 6 months ago and the thermostat was replaced (at the Honda dealer) over the summer--so they pressure tested and refilled the radiator while they had it. They replaced the air filter at this year's service visit.
My question is:
In what order would you perform maintenance? I think the timing belt (along with the other drive belts and water pump) and the transmission fluid will be done first. I plan to do that in the next few months. I think I'll replace the brakes and tires in the next year or two--unless I get a need to do so earlier. I'll replace the CV joints when they start clicking. I only paid $1000 for the car and I feel it's worth at least $3000; so, even after all this maintenance, I still feel as though I got a good deal on this car.
As part of the 90,000 mile maintenance service on my 1998 Civic HX coupe, the dealer told they had to change the timing belt on the car. Only one problem: it ballooned the cost of the 90,000 mile service around US$900. :surprise: Is it that costly to do timing belt changes on a Honda automobile engine? :confuse:
Daniel
Thanks for your help.
partstrain.com
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=honda+civic+manifold&submit_search.x=39&su- - - - - - - bmit_search.y=18
autopartswarehouse.com (free shipping)
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&VN=4294967031+4294967025+429496718- 9+4294967022+4294966998&PN=2665+11921&Ne=5&Nr=AND(wpn_tl_name:Engine+%26+Drivetrain,wpn_cat_name:Exhaust+%26+Emissions,wpn_scat_n- ame:Headers+%26+Manifolds,universal:0)&refType=Tab&refValue=Stock+Replacement
Here's an exploded assembly of the entire system:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - - - - - - cgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+MANIFO- - - - - - - - LD+%281%29
You can see how much more the OE (Honda) pricing is compared to the OEM.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-Exhaust-Manifold-674-439/dp/B000C14HF6/re- f=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1259267632&sr=1-1
So grand total was $305, not too bad.
I went ahead and bought the Dorman exhaust manifold/cat system with two new oxygen sensors and installed them this past weekend. It took about 4-5 hours. If I had to do it again I would say it would only take 2. Some of that time was also installing stainless steel hose clamps (from Lowes) around the rattling heat shields. Pretty easy and cheap fix. The Dorman instructions are limited and without visual diagrams. Disregard the extra parts.
A few notes on installation. The Honda manifold/cat has to removed from underneath the engine. You first have to remove two bolts to free the exhaust pipe that hangs near the oil pan. Pull it to one side and bungee cord it to something. Once the old one is out of the way, the Dorman will then slide in easily from the top since it's smaller than the OEM manifold. Make sure you put in the three bolts (w/ anti-seize) in the return exhaust plate underneath the cat before dropping it in. Line up these three bolts along with the engine mount and slide in the manifold at the same time. Once in place, slide the hanging exhaust into place and mount the 4 bolts underneath to the return pipe underneath the cat. Finger tight these and the manifold bolts until everything lines back up perfectly. I went ahead and locked down the manifold bolts first and then tightened the exhaust bolts last. I'm sure it's fine either way. I hope this helps.
I drive a 2003 Honda Civic and every time it's cold out, the lights on the dashboard lights flicker, blink, or go out completely. The speedometer goes down to zero, the gas tank reads empty, and it says there's no heat. These gauges may go up and down or stay at 0, empty, or cold.
When it's really cold out (iced windows, etc), the lights on the radio blink too.
But besides this inconvenient blinking, nothing else seems to be wrong. I've read that it could be a fuse or the alternator, but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this or knows how to fix it.
Please help!!!
I have a 2001 Civic Ex Sedan. There are five main problems: power door locks do not work; power windows do not work and none of the four are getting voltage at the fuse box; turn signal switch doesn't work, nor do they light up on the dash; wiper switch only works on medium and high, and does not squirt out any fluid; cruise control doesn't work. Also, inside the fuse block under the dash, some wires in the block have voltage when they shouldn't and others don't have voltage when they should. There is also a relay under the passenger's side dash making a clicking sound when you hit the door lock/unlock button, or manually push down the driver's side door lock (when it works it is a safety feature, when it is manually pressed down, it locks all the doors in the car).
I had a Compustar 5000 series remote start and alarm installed by an authorized compustar dealer. The next day, I went to adjust the shock sensor to a higher level, and on the following day (2 days after the alarm was installed), some problems started happening...
(I do not believe these problems have anything to do with the compustar install, and the only reason for listing the install is I'm trying to detail out exactly what happened and what aftermarket electronics I have on my car. The technician who did the install has not only been doing car electrical for 20 years, but is also extremely competent, has gone above and beyond what anyone in his position should be expected to, and has been a great friend through all of this. More likely than not, it is pure coincidence that these problems began soon after the install.)
I first noticed my remote wasn't unlocking my door locks, then I realized the power locks in the car weren't working as well; the door lock fuse wasn't blown. Gradually over the next month other things malfunctioned. It started off with my turn signals and parking lights after the door locks. The driver's side parking light would come on when I'd hit the arm/disarm button, but not the passenger side. Then when the headlights were on, the passenger's side parking light would come on, but not the driver's side.
If I pushed down the manual door lock (the rectangle manual push/push lock by the window) on the driver's side then my turn signals would stop working, my cruise control would go out, none of my four power windows would roll up or down, my wipers wouldn't work on delay, nor would they squirt out washer fluid. In order to get them working again, I'd have to turn the car completely off, remove the key completely from the ignition, and wait 10 seconds and turn it back on again (if I didn't remove the key, majority of the time, even if the car was left off for 10 seconds, none of the stuff would work).
There was also a freak problem that happened with the PDX 4.150. It may have nothing to do with anything, but I figured I'd mention it nonetheless. I had unhooked the main 0 gauge power from the distribution block to move the amps. When I went to hook up the 0 gauge power to the distribution block, it sparked bright blue, as usual; however the PDX 4.150 started pouring out smoke. I immediately removed the 0 gauge power from the distribution block and left it out, until I had removed the 4.150 from my car. None of the fuses on the amp had been blown, and has since been replaced by Alpine as defective under warranty. After removing the 4.150, I hooked the 0 gauge power back up to the distribution block, it sparked again as usual, and the other amps worked fine. Alpine had no clue what could have went wrong with the amp.
The technician currently working on my car is Jon. Please feel free to contact him for more in-depth knowledge as to what he's done diagnosticaly. His email is jon@raxxllc.com and the shop's phone # is (608) 754-6945. My name is James and my email is j.w.monroe@hotmail.com and my cell is (847) 302-8802
I do know he has went through individual wires wire by wire and tested continuity, he has tested numerous relays, pins on the harnesses, and all 5 different switches.
I do have additional aftermarket electronics hooked up:
- Alipine IVA-W505 Head Unit
- Alpine NVE-P1 Navigation
- Alpine PDX 1.1000 Amp (2)
- Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp
- Alpine SWX-143D Subs (2)
- Alipine SPX-17PRO (2 Sets)
- PAC 7 Trigger (for the headunit, to enable video playback while car is
moving), spliced into headunit 12v wire for power
- S7 speedometer cluster, spliced into factory cigarette lighter for power.
- Stinger 15 Farad Capacitor
- Singer SHD841 Midi Fused Distribution Block
- Stinger SP2150 (Main Battery)
- Power Bastards Fitzall 220+ Alternator
- 0 Gauge power ran from alternator to battery, 0 Gauge ground ran from
battery to car frame, 0 gauge power ran from battery to capacitor, 0 gauge
ground ran from capacitor to frame, 0 gauge power ran from capactior to
midi fused distribution block (4 fuses @ 175amps), 4 gauge power ran from
distribution block to amps, 4 gauge ground ran from amps to car frame
Thank you for taking the time to read this and/or contact us,
James
Do a battery cable reset by disconnecting the positive and negative battery cables and touching them together for 15 minutes with the ignition switch turned to ON (II). A battery cable reset forces all capacitors in that component to discharge faster, and it clears and resets the computer memory. If a software glitch is the culprit, a battery cable reset will fix the problem just as effectively as installing a new component would. Before you do this procedure though, make sure the battery has a full charge. A low battery can cause electronic components to not work right or not work at all.
If that doesnt work then it would be nice to know if you have any multiplex codes or issues using the mode 1 and 2 diag. I will try and e-mail you the procedure if you need it...
I know you dont want to hear it but most of these problems are usally related to aftermarket installs as ECM's and multiplex units are very sensitive to their reference voltages and can be damaged if not correct..But lets see if you can work around it..
The power windows are not sent through the multiplex in that year so that might be the best system to try and diag first and may lead to a connector that might have an issue. Have your guy trace power from underhood fuse box to under dash to main window switch and see where he looses power...If done already what were the results?
can anyone help me out
I need some advice before I take it in.
thanks
jkay
Thanks for the response.
when the temperature is cool (below 70F) the car will crank but it will not start! No matter whether the day is wet or dry or the fuel tank is half full or not - it doesn't always start.
I have already replaced the main relay under the dash, and the ignition module in the distributor - any ideas out there? I'm also wondering if the temperature inside the car has anything to do with it. I'd be obliged with your suggestions.
Should I also pay for a "tune-up" as the dealer suggests, as well as a valve adjustment and new valve cover gasket?
What does a tune-up include?
Why do mechanics replace valve cover gaskets?
What about the water pump, all drive belts and coolant? How often does this have to be done?
I've had the car since 2003 when I bought it from the dealer with 23K and the main maintenance I've had performed has been with regular lube and oil and tire rotation, balance and alignment. My dad was my mechanic, but he died and now I need help!
You need to spend a few dollars on having the fuel pump pressure and volume checked. If you have an in-line filter on that car, you should have it replaced if you haven't already. Not too familiar with the model but sometimes the filter and fuel pump are one component mounted in the tank. Maybe someone else can confirm that for you. Either way, sounds like the fuel pump to me.
Good luck,
Paul
As part of scheduled maintenance, honda recommends changing spark plugs and water-pump. Value adjustment is $300 if done alone. but if done with the t.b. package it is cheaper (about $150) since the cover would be off anyways so you'll save the labor. Gasket has to be changed because the old gasket would leak if re-used. Honda recommends coolant replacement at 120k. but if changing water-pump, it makes sense to change coolant coz you'll save on the labor cost.
I've got timing belt repalaced three times (different vehicles) and would recommend to do the full package. dealers would quote you $1200 for the whole thing! but **ASK** for discount, and most places will give you 20 - 25% discount easy. Your total cost will rund around $800 out the door. Also shop around independent mechanics. Their prices are about $100 to $150 less. Its up to you where to take your car, but for such a major maintenance like TB package and messing with the engine I would take mine to honda dealer and dont' mind paying more.
good luck.
Car had about 90K. Radiator was not happy on the 8 mile commute home. Had some fluid with me, stopped 3 times, would add fluid. Ran heater with windows open. Then it would red line and heater not put out hot air. 4th stop was at a local pond for some relatively clean water. Ran fine for a day and 30 miles that got it to the second mechanic Apparently no engine damage 10k later.
Thanks for Timing Belt tips. Am taking my car to the 2nd mechanic for a 100k eval, to decide if to keep or tradein. I trust both, but 2nd always seems to find the cause of issues when other fail and generally offers 2 or 3 options in any repair. Closest Honda shop is 65 miles away.
Paul
That was my guess too at first.. I never saw a leak on the ground. I did smell fluid but I had spilled a lot when I was refilling every day.. It was the radiator. I did not see water in oil, no water out the tail pipe, I did not see bubbles in the coolant, nor oil. I think my 2nd mechanic even checked compression. He knew I was not lying about adding lots of water the day before, despite his initial pressure check of the coolant system.
Now I am wondering about the slight shifting problem I have noticed over the last 2k. Maybe time to trade it in at my Honda dealer for a stick (which I wanted but my wife said no, we needed to have one automatic and it was going to be mine). Sigh. Still like the car.
Chris
I'm wondering if this is just "revenue enhancement" for the dealer, or if I really need to consider this. I'm semi-retired and only work about 6 months out of the year. The rest of the time, the car is only driven around town. I hate to spend the money if this is early replacement, but I also don't want to screw up the engine if the belt breaks.
Is this too early for timing belt replacement? I plan to drive the car for several more years since it's been fairly reliable.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
thebean :confuse:
please help.
Holly