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Comments
Oil clean.
No presure in Reservoir to suspect head leak.
I added stop leak yesterday. I haven't taken the top cover off, but does this model have a radiator cap and should I flush it, add treatment and stopleak again or should I have a preasure test done on it? I don't know what to do at this point to trouble-shoot. It's not running hot at all. Someone suggested it may be evaperating but how can you tell? HELP.
I haven't had to replace a thermostat on any vehicle for many years. The vehicles I used to work on had the thermostat on top and were easily identifide.
Just looking for a little direction.
Thanks
tomcatn
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/148
I would start out with a cold engine and take the rad cap off, start the engine and let it warm up. When the thermostat opens, you should be able to see the antifreeze circulate in the rad. If it does, I would then rule out the water pump unless it has very poor circulation.
Nice thing about the water pumps is that they are inexpensive and relatively easy to change.
Another thing to look at is the heater and if it blows hot air as it should. You could have a blocked heater hose or possibly a connection from the rad to the heater causing pressure.
I am not certain that this would cause your problem, but it could be a head gasket but you should be able to see white smoke out the exhaust. Another thing is the rad hoses. They have wire in them to keep them from collapsing but you never know.
A couple of google's should locate the problem as I am sure you are not the first with this issue. A call to a rad shop could also yield some answers.
Nothing to say that the thermostat was good either and hopefully you did not put it in upside down.
Good Luck.
If the coolant level remained the same and the temp goes down to 205 when driving on the freeway, it could be a bad fan clutch. At highway speeds the fan is less important to cool the truck.
A blockage in the motor could also cause overheating. When the radiator and thermostat was changed was the motor back flushed?
Additionally, if I run the A\C, water leaks from the evaporator drain as well. It's more than condensation, as it will eventually drain all of my coolant.
I have several questions running through my head:
1) Could I have a bad heater core without it leaking inside the cab?
2) Could a bad heater core result in a leak through the evap. core drain?
3) Would a bad evap core cause the windows to steam up when running the heater or defroster without the A/C button on at the same time?
4) Without having to take it to a shop and pay their $120 diagnosis fee, is there some way an average guy - like me - can figure out for sure if the heater core is bad? Same thing with the evaporator core?
Thanks in advance. I've spent so much time looking for anyone that has these same issues online, but virtually everyone that has a bad heater core says it leaks inside the cab. Mine doesn't, but something definitely is going on...
kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
Naturally it couldn't be straight-forward and easy to determine. Is there any way I can test both of these cores?
It's about $1,000 to replace the heater core, which I don't have laying around, so I was going to spend a long weekend doing it myself. The thing that scares me is that I tear everything down, replace the heater core, put it all back together and find out the evap core it bad too (or it wsa the only thing bad in the first place). And, although I might be wrong on this, I think the evap core is quite a bit more than the heater core.
To test them, do I need to tear everything down, then pull each core and take it to a shop?
Thanks for your help.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host