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Can you post the details about your lease. The Cap cost, Residual, Money Factor, Term, Total Down, and Payment.
Thanks
Cap cost: $37K (excluding the GMAC acquisition and admin fee)
Residual: $26.3K
Term: 24 months for 12K miles per year
Down: $3K
Payment: $410
The dealer showed me the money factor but I couldn't remember. At the end of the day, it really depends on the price as if you are buying the Jeep. I built an Excel model, similar to the mortgage calc when you buy a house, and figured out that I would pay ~$3K extra in terms of interest, vs. buying the Jeep now with cash. I just like driving new cars so I would look at it as the cost of driving new cars. What sucks is that Ally bank will add $2500 to the residual value if you buy the car at the end of the lease. To me, it just means that probably I wouldn't buy the car when the lease ends.
For the issue I mentioned, I had the dealer checked the car but they couldn't replicate the issue. I'll just keep an eye on it and bring it back to them if necessary. I like the design and the Jeep brand. I hate the quality/reliability of the Chrysler cars though. But I like Jeep more than other brands such as Toyota, Honda, etc. Chances are that in 2 years I will buy or lease another Jeep Grand Cherokee, especially when the diesel version will be available soon.
By the way, you sounded like a Lithia employee . I'd say a 20-30% of the folks at the dealer just suck: no credibility, very rude, and cheap. The sales person I dealt with was great though. He had lots of experiences and was very polite and could talk to the point. Also the service director was good when I brought up the issue to her. Other folks were just in-experienced, and they were treating you like low-end customers, without any understanding that you are throwing $30-$40K to buy one of the most expensive cars they are selling. This is not surprising in that some deck sales persons are only making $10/hour, the minimum wage, with a high school diploma only. During some conversation I had to yell at / remind them that I can escalate along their reporting chain for some issues that I wasn't happy with - they are employee of the Lithia company, they should understand that any escalation might impact their career and employment with Lithia.
It's time to close the doors on this company.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2008-jk-starting-problems-1055410/index2.html-
After two garages and £300, I ended up taking the car to a gear box specialist. They identified the error code and then had a second opinion before replacing the gov sensor. This has done the job.
The problem is now fixed and cost £700. Every one wanted to replace the gearbox, including the main dealer.
My Advice find a gearbox/auto transmission specialist not a main dealer.
Regards
Steve
Oh and btw mine is not the hemi, its the V8 4.7
Any suggestions? I’ve already talked to one shop, and they didn’t seem to know exactly what it could be, but immediately went to the option of replacing the tranny something I’d like to avoid if this can be fixed by replacing a part. I’ve done a little reading, and one possibility seems to be the Governor Pressure Sensor. Another possibility might be the TCM?
Again I am no expert, but going both of those routes helps identify the problem to know where to start without having to go to the dealership and take out a loan to get it fixed
I would stay away from any Chrysler product. We gave Jeep a second chance after our first lemon, a 2006 Liberty Diesel. Chrysler is the absolute worst company to work with when you have a defective product. As much as we loved the diesels when they were running for their increased gas mileage, power and handling, I would not wish the hell we have gone through on any prospective buyer.
We still have the 2007 JGK. There are ethical issues involved with selling it to a private seller because of all the past/current problems and when we tried to trade it in at the dealer, either Chrysler corporate or the Chrysler Jeep dealer came sniffing around, offering a ridiculously low trade in price. It may not be running but there is some value in the rest of the vehicle.
To replace the engine with a used engine is approx. $7000.00-$8000.00 for the engine alone. The cost of a new engine is approx. $20,000 for the engine alone.
I'd go with the Toyota.
The dealer HAS admitted the problem but indicated there is nothing they can do yet as Chrysler has yet to release a fix.
They mentioned to me it was the torque converter. Said that when the vehicle switches from "ECO" (4 cylinder) back to 8, the torque converter is searching for what to do and is applying then releasing, applying then releasing, almost like a clutch.
This is what is causing the shudder.
I call BS and and asked them to replace it but they're saying the new version of the vehicle is doing the exact same thing so they wont replace it.
Only thing to do is put a lot of pressure of Chrysler.
They also gave me the BS line of driving another one of the lot and seeing that it does the same thing. Well I drove the owner of the dealerships GC and if mine drove like his did, I wouldn't be complaining.
Point being; seems like every GC has a slight shudder while the engine changes from ECO (4 cylinder) back to 8. The torque converter engages and disengages. But I think there are varying degrees and I can tell you that mine is almost un-drivable now as its constant from 80kmh (50mph) and up.
I think everyone with this issue needs to put a lot of pressure on Chrysler and maybe if we all talk with the same person, team or group it might help.
That said, I just want my car to run the way it was advertised and not have to take legal action against an Automotive giant..
I hope that patch that's due to come out in February works but doubt it very much.
I live in PA and had to drive up a road which included a 3 mile drive up a mountain, and down the other side. i noticed while climbing the mountain the rpms were at 3 grand and the trans did not shift up out of 2nd gear. i had reached 55 mph and it should have shifted to 3rd gear or Drive. i disengaged the overdrive and let off the gas then it shifted. I thought i must be low on fluid. so i was careful coming down the other side of the mountain highway and checked the fluid. it appeared low as i did not see fluid on the dipstick. i added fluid and continued on my way to Allentown where my daughter was going for surgery. i noticed that every time i came a stop the transmission would again not shift out of 2nd gear unless i let off the gas, or shifted to neutral then back to drive. if i pulled out very slowly from a stop it would shift some of the time.
when we reached the hospital my son -n-law and i checked the fluid again and it again appeared low. the fluid is clean and not brown, and there is no burnt smell. we again added fluid. and left it at that. when my daughter was out of surgery and okay i decided to head home, and her husband would stay with her until her discharge the next day. ( They had followed me in their own car). Again at first the trans shifted normally. then the same symptom started again. i made it home by repeatedly shifting to neutral then back to drive and the trans would shift in to higher gear, until i came to a stop again.
when i got home, i again checked the fluid, and again it appeared low. so stupid me, i again added fluid. I did not run the jeep again this day, but noticed a few hours later that i had a nice leak of trans fluid that appears to be coming from between the trans tail shaft, and the transfer case. the fluid is clean and un-burnt. i checked the fluid level and found it was way over filled. since i have an external cooler i was able to drain away the extra fluid. with the fluid level showing normal, with the trans hot in neutral. the leak appears to have stopped as i had wiped off the area where it had been dripping and placed cardboard underneath, and only a few residual drops were there. i test drove the jeep again. and again the same symptom of not shifting to high gear appeared.
I was checking forums here and some are saying it is a problem with the throttle position sensor, i have a new one ordered and will replace it. i am hoping this is the problem. I need and would greatly appreciate any and all input from you jeep guys and gals, as although i have mechanic experience, i am not up to speed on these newer systems of sensors and relays controlling transmissions. i am retired / disabled with spine problems so i am on a fixed income, and i can only do minor work myself. Please post if any of you can offer any advice or help. God Bless and Thank You!!
They were out of the small bottles of Trans X and not wanting another episode of over filling, i decided to return home. By now the jeep was fully warmed up. and sure enough it started again, only this time i no longer had second or drive.
When i pulled over to the shoulder and put it in park for a minute or two, i could again go with first second and drive, with drive fading out and it beginning to slip until i manually shifted into second.
I noted that the problem was at worst when the overdrive was engaged. so i kept the overdrive off. this helped a little but i ended up making it back home using only first gear.
I again checked the fluid. it is right at the full mark and a pretty pinkish purple. no smell of burned fluid, no brown fluid. I am totally lost at this point. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! :confuse:
I have had a similar problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why tehy need to replace these parts.
Do you think that I may also have a grounding problem?
Hope you can help.
Many thanks,
Myprincejack
I have have had a problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at Jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the problem codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why they need to replace these parts, OR could it be some other problem.
Hope someone can help.
Many thanks,
Myprincejack
P.S. I'm sure this is related in some way, although not directly, but since the torque converter was replaced, the jeep seems to have some problems switching gears. Instead of shifting from exactly 1 to 2 or 3, the rpms indicator seems to hang a little bit lower or higher, and shifts at weird times. Also, most frighteningly, a few times when I've tried to accelerate quickly, as in going onto the highway, the jeep went straight into the red area of the indicator and stopped accelerating. I've been trying to save up money to get this looked at and maybe maintenanced again.
"
Hey there. Did you ever figure out for sure what was causing this? Any feedback would be appreciated!
So you guys have any helpful ideas we need to check?
Am having the same problem with my Jeep Grand Cherokee. When I drive in automatic "D" in heavy traffic, the jeep vibrates/shudders and I suspect the reason is the jeep is not able to identify the gear it should be in. This does not happen when I use Tiptronic (manual) gear.
Can you let me know how you solved this issue.
I hope this helps. GOOD LUCK!!!
Spring. Removed Plate on valve Body 4 Torx screw(s). Spring was in 2 Pieces.Cost to replace Spring $4.00
Jeep.. as usual.. can never duplicate the issue.