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Pressure Control Solenoid A Intermittent P0750 Shift Solenoid circuit. Note: If code P1767 (Transmission Relay Always On) is also present: Replace transmission solenoid
http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm
1. When I brake to stop, say at a stop light/sign, just as I come to a complete stop, the entire car jerks forward a bit even with my foot on the brake. This happens EVERY time I stop. The jerking/lurching action can even occur when I have been at a complete stop.
2. After coming out of a stop, or even putting my foot on the pedal after slowing down, it has a hard time grabbing the gear and getting out of first and the engine strain is very audible. Once it shifts out of first, I have no problems.
I took it to the dealer on Friday and they told me that it was not an electrical problem, might be internal and recommended a transmission flush, etc. I took the car to a mechanic friend on Saturday and he did the flush, cleaning, whatever it is for $125. He told me the fluid was so dirty it looked like motor oil. However, now I hear something like a fan squealing while I am slowing down to stop. This is very annoying!
The car did improve slightly that day, but the problems are back today. Does this sound like the entire tranny needs to come out? I am a single mom and the $1500 isn't growing on the money tree in the back yard today. HELP!
Thank you for any advice you can offer.
Have you had any luck getting this issue resolved?
I tried the trick of turning the key off an on three times to have a code revealed to me, which only gave me the word 'done' on the odometer. The O/D light didn't flash at all. Now I'm searching the web for a solution before I start replacing sensors, racking up more money. Ideas?
My situation is a bit different (year 97, 4x2) unless you put 130K on yours. I'm fixing it for my kid. I would consider a transmission rebuild if I get engine running OK. Otherwise, no $ for dealer or repair shop.
See below for details and Good Luck.
The engine has rough idle when stopped. Putting transmission in Neutral reduces vibration, but it is still way too much. I have no Check Engine Light. There are no codes (you can get them via the odometer). Otherwise, acceleration, ride, and steering are still very good. A/C great, but I'm on my 3rd radio.
Haynes makes a great manual about OBD II. It has a lot of useful info about what to do before buying a scan tool.
I purchased a vacuum gauge. It looks OK. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge. Mine is suppose to be about 45 psi. At idle, my pressure vibrates between 35 and 42. I open the throttle and it locks steady at 42. Then the engine sounds great.
I was surprised to learn there is a cable between the transmission and the throttle. So far I have found little info about how the details of their interaction. I have the Haynes and the big Chrysler shop manual.
Below is a list of servicing I have done. I believe all of them have helped.
(1) Change transmission fluid and filter. Adjust forward band.
(2) New distributor cap, wires, spark plugs, coil and air filter.
(3) Pulled fuel rail. Injectors pass electrical test
(4) Intake manifold vacuum test OK
(5) Removed & cleaned throttle until it looks new. Replace idle air control valve.
(6) Problems detected with fuel pressure test as explained above.
Note: Fuel pump module looks like it is connected directly to battery voltage and is gated on/off by the fuel pump relay. So why isn't it the fuel pressure the same all the time?
Or seek a reputable shop, but I avoid that (trust) until I am pretty certain opening up the trans is necessary.
While researching my own transmission I read that the "powertrain control" uses different governance curves based on engine temperature. My transmission shifts much better once the engine is warmed up Anyway, my conclusion is that inconsistent engine performance may cause inconsistent transmission performance. Consider this: my transmission has a cable to the throttle just like my accelerator pedal. Of course, there's always the risk that the problem is in the transmission and all of the above is a waste of time.
While cruising along, the vehicle suddenly shifts into 3rd gear. It will not shift up to 4th or D. It will not shift down to 1 or 2. It will shift to P, N, or R. I suspect that 3rd is the fail-safe default for when the shift mechanism loses its mind.
The dealer's first solution three weeks ago was to flush the transmission. Everything seemed fine for a week and a half. But then it recurred last Satruday (over a weekend of course). I had to drive the 150 miles home in 3rd gear.
Has anyone out there experienced a similar problem and had it resolved satisfactorily?
It does not do it all the time and I can not get the fault to reacure when I want it to.
While you are driving for what ever reason the engine light comes on and the car goes into nymph mode, were it will not allow you to gain any speed.
It has also on one occasion caused the loss of all gears, where I had to switch the ignition off and re start before I could rev. the engine and once again drive.
It seems to be when the car is at a running temperature, but not always.
The car also at stages seems to jerk into gear and you can hear the engine over rev while you are driving.
One one occasion while driving on a flat road the fault appeared and the car would not change gears the road then had an incline with a traffic light which I had to stop at, after I pulled off going up the hill the car then changed gears as if nothing was wrong.
I have had it in at a repair shop and the computer showed a fault on the vacume sensor which we replaced but the fault has not cleared.
The gearbox has now also started leaking oil, I have heard that it takes a special oil (what type of oil do I need to put into it?)
I would appreciate anyone having any ideas what the problems could be.
I would start looking at wires between engine and transmission. You may have to clean underneath first (find a carwash with a wand). Make a note or take picture of anyting that looks suspicious.
I can crawl under my jeep for inspection, but my jeep is much older than yours.
If it's a ground wire problem, it will be difficult to pinpoint. I never had one, but my dad had one.
My thought is that the fluid is not circulating through the cooler.
I know next to nothing about automatic trnasmissions, so any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Rewi
question is will I have any problems swapping transmissions, not transfer cases.
1. Cooling failure could be due to plugged line or cooler OR the fins of the cooler are clogged with dirt and debris OR whatever pumps the fluid is not working. Radiator and transmission coolers should be cleaned 1 a year. The fins are fragile so use a soft brush.for debris and garden hose for dirt.
With ground clearance of Jeep you can probably crawl under it without jacking it up.
2. If you have a regular mechanic, use them to get a referral to a transmission shop. When you visit the shop, let them know who referred you.
3. I am in favor of used parts for headlight assembly, door, etc. I have a problem with used motors and transmissions, unless you are having it rebuilt. How do you know their mileage or how they were maintained? (Oh, the mechanic said they were low mileage or somebody told him they were low mileage.).
You want a Re-manufactured transmission or a rebuild of your existing one. On the remanufacture, you should get a factory warranty (in case Joe's Transmissions closes).
On the rebuild, I think they have different levels of rebuild so inquire about it. Ask for a bag with all the parts they replaced.
I have a 05 GC, it has fairly low miles, about 58K. If I try to accelerate by pushing the pedal down anymore than half way while stopped(IE coming off a stop light). I hear a studdering(like a kuk kuk kuk, is the best way i can describe the sound)... after I get out of first gear, i can floor the gas pedal and it doesnt make the noise, it only happens while I'm in D accelerating from a dead stop. Any help you could offer would be great even if its just ideas on what might be going wrong. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Adam
Next, because fluid is clear it is harder to read dipstick. I serviced mine. I am paranoid about overfilling. I had all kinds of problems. Turns out my mechanic said I was 2 quarts low. I could swear I had a line on my dipstick, Anyway, all strange behavior went away. The dipstick must look really wet. Plus you have to check it with engine hot and running.
After removing transmission pan you have to really clean the surfaces of the pan and the transmission before closing it up. Clean bolt threads so they tighten more easily. The bolts have torque specifications. You need to proceed thru all bolts and torque them. Continue the process until you have 1 complete cycle where each bolt will not tighten (i.e. it does not tighten, the torque wrench just clicks).
If you are lucky, torquing the bolts properly should stop the leak. Otherwise, you will have to put on a new gasket. If you paid for this service you have a legitimate complaint.
You have a 4x4 and I am 4x2 so you carefully assess my comments. 96-98 are similar so they should apply to you but you never know. You may have additional issues related to 4x4 configuration.
Thanks god for the Chrysler Service Contract.
I am still losing first (and 4th gear) in what seems like a limp mode, and the check engine light comes on after about 2 minutes of this happening. I have already had 3000 in repairs, new BCM, 4x4 front and rear seals, rotors, brakes, trans pan, front cv's, and paid out of pocket for 900 in maintanence including new serp belt, mobile one, plugs and wires, power purge of tranny, fuel injection servfice.
This truck is immaculate...most likely because it has been in the shop as much as on the road...it had 98k when I bought it...now has 102k. What is wrong with the tranny or tranny sensors? :lemon:
99 GC LTD 4x4 V-8 w/ 86K on it. Have had no real problems in the years I have owned it, until this weekend on a trip up to the lake. It would occassionally jerk/clunk really hard into the last two gears. Also would shift from 1st to 2nd hard (not as hard as coming down). It wouldn't do it all of the time, and it did it both while pulling our small 16' fishing boat and while not. I checked the ATF and it was a little low, so I put a quart in, but it didn't help. Haven't had it into the shop yet, but want to see if I anyone here as any ideas before I go.
Thanks in advance for the help!!
To refresh your memory, my '05 GC would randomly drop into 3rd and not be able to get out of it (other than N or R). Several trips to my dealer's shop failed to solve the problem.
Finally, the service technician refused to give up on the problem. The TSB's evidently were no help. The factory recommendations seemed not to provide any answers either. Finally, he ran it to ground. He suspected the solenoid pack had an internal open circuit. He opened the transmission pan/valve body, replaced the solenoid pack, and refilled the transmission with 7 qts of fluid.
It has been 4 weeks now and the problem has not recurred. I think he found the solution. I too am thnakful for the extended warranty. I didn't report sooner because I wanted to be sure the problem had been solved.
Good luck.
You might want to buy Chrysler shop manual. I bough mine on ebay for about $100. It has a lot more info about transmissions than the Haynes manual.
It might be worthwhile to disable 4x4 and troubleshoot 4x2 operation. I mean really disable. Will it run 4x2 without CV joints? Does transfer case have a fuse or circuit breaker you can pull? I would expect it to run 4x2 if you were out on the trail a 4x4 components like a CV joint broke.
The approach is to get motor & trans working perfect 4x2 with minimal presence of any 4x4 components. Then, plug 4x4 back into the picture.
CLUNK NOISE FROM DRIVELINE ON CLOSED THROTTLE 4-3 DOWNSHIFT.
1. Transmission fluid low (check while hot and running)
2. Throttle cable misadjusted
3. Overdrive clutch select spacer; wrong spacer
You might want to buy a shop manual for your year. I bought the book for $100, but you can also buy it as a pdf file for less. Check ebay.
Sfter she cools down the check engine light goes off and it drives great as long as my trips are less than 20 miles. It's been in the shop twice, tech cant find any probs. Thanks for response. I am on a first name basis with the service manager now.