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China
I looked at Troubleshooting guide entry for "Stuck in 1st Gear. Will Not Upshift"
1) Throttle linkage misadjusted or stuck
2) Gearshift linkage misadjusted
3) Governor component electrical fault
4) Front band out of adjustment
5) Clutch or servo malfunction.
There is a cable from the throttle and a cable from the shift lever to the transmission. For (4) there is an adjustment screw. It is sort of on top of the transmission and not easy to get to. I think you need a torque wrench.
If you are lucky, it is (1), (2) or (4). The Haynes manual has info for these if you want to do it yourself. For (3) or (5) you need a pro.
When you start it make sure the A/C is OFF and drive it for a while. If it goes away or is less severe, it could be your serpentine belt or one of the attached components.
I took my belt off for a repair but when I put it back on I had to stretch it a little. Sometimes it was quiet for days and then it would start to whine. When I start with A/C off it is always quiet. When I get some spare time I will tighten it.
Anything with a pulley on the belt (water pump, alternator, etc) could be making a noise. Get a long (14-20 in.) screwdriver with a flat blade (Sears). CAREFULLLY place flat blade in contact with each component keeping away from the pulley/belt. Put your ear to the plastic handle. Or you can buy a stethoscope. Maybe you will discover something.
I have a problem with my jeep,suddenly my reverse in my car stopped working but the drive is working and the N is working..... What could possibly be the problem? Has this happened to anyone else? I would appreciate any help ....
thanks
Check for leaks in the lines from transmission to radiator.
I have a Chrysler shop manual for Jeep. For many types of transmission problems they mention that the shift lever cable or the transmission cable to the throttle being out of adjustment could be the reason.
I suggest you have an honest mechanic look at the cable issues before taking it to a transmission shop. My experience with them has not been good.
I am also pulling a boat on the weekends. I drive with my overdrive off in traffic and until I reach 50 mph. and I drive at 75 mph while pulling the boat. Is that hard on the tranny?
How do I tell if I have a transmission cooler?
I would expect small hoses that are capped at the end by small metal lines. The lines probably have a metal quick connect fitting where they attach to radiator. One of the lines should connect high and the other low. Radiator assembly may also have A/C lines.
Is standard cooling enough for your application ? I don't know. If fluid level is going down and you have no leaks you need to find out why. Check fluid level while engine running and HOT. If overfilled, seek assistance.
Info below is from 97 JGC Chrysler shop manual in their transmission troubleshooting table.
Condition: Harsh 1-2 OR 2-3 OR 3-4 upshifts
Possible Causes: Lockup solenoid malfunction
Solution: Remove valve body and replace solenoid
Do you have one ? It sounds like you may be headed for a rebuild.
If they repair something else and this component has modest cost, maybe you should have it done as a precaution. Incremental labor should be small. It might save you a trip back.
I have purchase from a bid 2004 Laredo CRD with around 60,000 mile , looks like the automatic transmission is stack at 2nd gear .
The mechanic has replaced the gear oil and filter , and according to there diagnostic computer there is no problem ..
The car is at transmission specialist that found out with his smartbox the following error :
X431 DIAG Report
Code 001:
Solenoid supply voltage (DTC ID 10 ) .
He is pretty sure that it’s the Solenoid that needs to be replace .
Any idea what went wrong ?
I’m going to be at the US next week and would like to buy it online , any idea what is the part number and recommended on line store ?
Thanks
Oren
I have a problem with my trans and before I dump money into the truck I would like some opinions on what it could be. The trans works well when not under stress but yesterday while trying to tow my boat out of the water the trans would not engage . It made a lot of noise but eventually pulled it out. But on the way home whenever I took off from a light it would shudder . it did this all the way home. I unhooked the boat to drive a friend home and no shuddering when leaving a light :confuse: ?? Fluid level is good and suggestions? thanks
You may notice an incremental improvement as you do each step and when you get to the end it may be resolved. Or you may find that one of the steps resolves your problem. Spending repair $ on a guess is not cost-effective.
First, with engine hot and idling, radiator fan or one of the fans should operate at a high speed. I think it's intermittent. It's operation is not subjective. Do research on how it's suppose to work. Either it works or it doesn't. I had a Ford Ranger with your problem and a faulty fan clutch prevented fan from operating at high speed. Assuming that's not the problem, continue.
Safety Note: Make sure engine cools (2 hours) before removing radiator cap. Always wear face and/or eye protection when removing cap.
1) Make sure system was pressure tested. Cooling system operates under pressure to get max effectiveness. Fire your mechanic if he has not done this yet. Replace radiator cap with a new one. Make sure cap pressure rating matches your car. They have to remove the cap to test system, so cap is not part of the test.
2) Remove old thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not open or opens very little, that may be your problem. I would not put it back in until you get system working (unless very cold). Be sure to put a new one in no matter what.
3) Make sure radiator front is clear of all debris, insects, etc. Use a soft brush to clean. Avoid bending the fins. Do not brush across the fins. If it was very dirty that could be your problem. A little fin damage is OK. If you have a lot of fin damage consult a radiator shop.
4) Buy a Prestone backflush kit and purge all old coolant and loose dirt Disconnect reservoir while doing all this.
5)Next, treat it with Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner. You put it in, drive several hours, and then backflush it. Dirt and deposits interfere with heat transfer between the coolant and engine block, and the radiator.
Note: For backflush, get a long piece of hose that fits snug into top of radiator so you can direct it into a bucket (5 gal.). Make sure hose pressure is not high. Turn it on slowly and gradually to find the right point.
Note: Unless it's freezing I see no need to put anti-freeze back in until you finished all troubleshooting.
After all of this, I would be surprised if you didn't see some improvement. If still not working, take it to Jeep dealer. They are expensive, but I would really surprised if they couldn't fix something like this At least you will know you are not paying a mechanic $90/hr because your radiator was dirty. They can put new thermostat in and fill with coolant while making the repair.
I am new in this forum. I have just recently bought a 1996 Grand Jeep Cherokee Limited. It has an error message in the dispaly of "Trans. Overtemp." What might this be about?
Thank you in advance for your help.
-I had a 1986 Rodeo that the "check Engine" light wouldn't go off. Had it checked and it is just a faulty light. Unplugged it in the engine compartment and all was well.
It could just be the light sticking.
Son Jeep just started pouring fluid out when starting motor. Fluid is coming from front of transmission, but not sure where. Going to pull dust cover off, but not sure what to look for. Any ideas?
trans fluid should not be foamey poprobl ove full
No. 9 looks interesting but it is probably less expensive to look first for a misadjustment.
SHIFT IS DELAYED OR ERRATIC
1. Fluid level low or high
2. Fluid filter clogged
3. Throttle linkage misadjusted
4. Throttle linkage binding
5. Gearshift linkage misadjusted
6. Clutch or servo failure
7. Governor circuit electrical fault
8. Front band misadjusted
9. Pump suction passage leak
Details for No. 9 - Check for excessive foam on dipstick after normal driving. Check for loose pump bolts, defective gasket. Replace pump assembly if required.
Thanks
What ever came of the Weerrring sound in reverse? I have been told that my 1998 Jeep needs a new (rebuilt) tranny and this is exactly what is happening. I get the sound in reverse and maybe a little sluggishness on inclines. I have been quoted 2600 for the rebuild. I'm in CA.
Thanks for the response.
I had a minivan with transmission trouble that was under dealer extended warranty. I bought it when it was 3 years old. My recollection is their standard procedure was to remove, disassemble, and then rebuild. They clean it. They know what components to inspect and replace. They don't try to pinpoint the problem. They know how to test it on the bench so they know its OK when they re-install it.
If you decide to get a rebuild, all rebuilds are not created equal. Find out about the different levels For your problem, one of the less expensive rebuilds may be adequate. Dealing with transmission shop is like walking on ice on a warm spring day. Good luck.
Now that other Jeeps are catching up to the mileage that we have on ours I think maybe they might, figure out how to fix it. Maybe.
Sorry - no help - just don't get a new torque converter, We have had three - doesn't work.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think everyone's trans problem solution is a little unique possibly.