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After scouring the web for answers, I ended up replacing the TPS and the problem went away (or so I thought). Sadly to say, after a couple of days the problem came back. It was only corrected (in my case) after I discovered the connector that plugs into the TPS had contacts that were "sprung" or weakened by the weight of the wire harness on it. I couldn't wait to order a new one, so with the help of my wife (needed four hands) we disassembled the connector and bent back the female pins so they would grab tight again. Finally the problem was solved!
Apparently, when first replacing the TPS, I moved the wires enough to make a good connection again, only to last for a few days. By wiggling the wires at the connector, I could make it go from bad to good (and vise versa).
Hope this helps!
Nneal
Finally, with nothing else to lose, I pulled the pan, tested the solenoids, and found one of them bad. I bought a solenoid kit off the web (way cheaper), and my problem was fixed! No thanks to the shops.
Assuming fluid level is okay, from my experience, I would start out testing the TPS, and if that's not it, test the solenoids. I am a firm believer also, if the transmission is working fine except for misshifts, then it's a part problem and not the whole tranny.
Nneal
just bought jeep grand cherokee, 87000ml, had engine problem, fixed it easy, but now trans is playing. on D it would jump from 1st to 3rd, would need to rev engine quit a bit to to it. and would not go to 4th. but if i would start drive on 2, not on D, it would shift from 1st to 2nd(would still need to rev it hard to get it done) and when driving on 2nd when i change to D, it will shift nicely to 3rd and 4th. no fault codes present, had it check at few garaged and they cant tell whats wrong, they say what need to take gearbox out, look inside. and it would cost a lot.
and O/D button isn't working, o/d on all the time, but they say it's nothing to do with it. any thoughts?
thank you for your help
Thanks
Dave
--your tip about the pins on the connector for the throttle position control sounds like exactly the problem..glad you fixed it,and shared it with us!
The solenoids can be tested at the wire harness plug coming from the transmission. Make sure it's the right one, and not the harness coming from the shift selector switch Other people have said it can be tested at the plug going into the TCM (Transmission Control Module) under the dash.
I believe you might be able to view the service manual at Scribd.com to assist you in making these test measurements. If you are comfortable using a volt/ohms meter, then it's fairly simple.
I've never heard any method of resetting the computer (minus the dealer "flashing" it), unless you're talking about erasing the trouble codes in it.
Hope this helps.
Nneal
summers
mine is Quadra-Trac II, would it be the same, and please could you tell me how do i check, what i would bee looking for?
thank you
Nneal
Another thing I would ask is how many miles are on your Jeep? Did these symptoms just start happening suddenly, or was it getting worse little by little?
After filling the fluid to the proper level, did that make any difference?
My best guess on your transmission is a model "42RE" 4 speed automatic. You can confirm this by having someone crawl under your Jeep to look at the label on the transmission.
I'm assuming you checked the fluid level as described below?:
____________________________________________________________________
MODEL 42RE:
1. Transmission fluid must be at normal operating temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).
2. Position vehicle on level surface.
4. Apply parking brakes.
5. Shift transmission momentarily into all gear ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.
6. Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep dirt from entering tube.
7. Remove dipstick and check fluid level as follows:
(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Automatic Transmission fluid to restore correct level. Do not overfill.
________________________________________________________________________________- ________________________________________________________
What you don't want to do, is automatically have your transmission rebuilt without ruling a few other things out first. As I mentioned in a previous post, I brought my Cherokee to both a Transmission shop AND a Dealer, with both telling me they couldn't tell what the problem was, but it needed to be rebuilt. That was back in July 1998 and I'm still driving it today!
You stated "My transmission it feels like it engages for a second, but as soon as you give it fuel to move, then it just revives up and goes no where". My question is, if you place the shift selector in 1st gear only, does it take off like it should? If it does, that's an indicator it's not the whole transmission, but only a component that needs fixing.
Here are three major things to check before thinking about a total rebuild:
* Throttle Position Sensor (can be checked without replacing)
* Transmission "kickdown" cable (or called transmission throttle cable) - check adjustment.
* Do a fluid change with filter and check solenoids (ohms test) while oil pan is off transmission.
A good garage will be able to test this out with no problem. If they don't know how, find one who does. In my opinion, it's worth checking this out before spending $1,200 dollars or more on a rebuilt transmission.
with the economy in the crapper,every buisness is trying to "maxinise profits",but you also don't want to get into one of those "take it back 19 times,and it;s still not right" ,things
--check with local people-see who is a good trans medic..
--my-98 laredo leaked just a little,and had "morning sickness"(untill fluid warmed up,it wouldn't move)-two possibilities come to mind-one-plugged filter or valve body..second-cluches worn,needing rebuilt..
--wherever you get it fixed-MAKE SHURE YOU GET A WARRANTY !
its a 2000 grand jeep cherokee straight 6 - 4.0
i would love some feedback, beacause i would like to try to fix this before i spend tons of money on a new transmisson! thanks!!
Won't shift into any gear, reverse or drive. In a constant neutral. I didn't really give it much time to warm up. Haven't check transmission fluid levels.
Can anyone give me a heads up as to what the possibilities are?
Please keep in mind there were absolutely no warning signs of any shifting problem. Didn't hear or feel anything the night before on the drive home.
i called a machanic, and he said that it sounds like an electrical problem. hes coming to check it out tomorrow
Check your fluid level HOT.
Make sure the cable from the shift lever to the transmission is properly adjusted. You may think you are in Drive, but the lever slips back into Neutral without you knowing it because it's not really in the position you think it is. It's only half way.
Another potential culprit is the park neutral safety switch. Make sure it works OK.
If your symptoms involve brief periods where it is OK and then craps out, look for loose or corroded ground wire related to any electrical connections.
Inspect contacts of connectors looking for anything that could cause poor contact (e.g. dirt, corossion). Don't try to physically clean a contact; you could damage it. Use a spray contact cleaner (techni-tool.com).
If a contact looks bent out of place, you have no choice but to try and bend it back.
Last spring I replaced the rear wiper motor on my jeep, but the problem turned out to be the contacts for the switch in the dash.
Try the cheap solutions first. Go to the transmission shop as the last resort.
link title
What do you think is happening?
or does the steering wheel lock and not be able to turn?
If so, are there any modifications needed on the new box?
Suggest you evaluate engine (compression test) and then decide on transmission. Remanufactured trans is less risky than rebuild but I don't know the costs. I had a trans rebuilt by a Dodge dealer, but it was their car and their extended warranty.
in engine compartment on the left side when you look from the front way to the back right beside what looks like a thermouse bottle you see a large bunch of wires hooked into a box have found that the conection will get loose and allow water from the acculmater to enter and crode the conection (i unhooked the battery and took the conection apart and pluged and unpluged a few times then coated with dilectric greese put back together took care of my rough shifting on my 2000 jeep gr cher
and when driving home the transmission makes a Thud/Clunk noise when coming to a stop. It will not do it when I put it in netural- and if I stop when going less than 30 MPH. Any suggestions.
--so,-take it back to them,and see what they screwed up..
--then again,sometimes things break when you fix other things..could be totally unrelated,but because they happened just after you had something fixed-maybe the other parts got jealous?(lol)
-
After reading all of your suggestions, I figured it'd be worth it to drop the pan, change the filters and fluid and test the solenoids. I didn't have to go that far. When I crawled under the Jeep to get started, I found the cable that runs from the driver's side of the transmission to the gear selector in the cabin loose. I don't know the precise name of the parts, but this cable moves a lever on the side of the transmission when you select P,R,N,D,1 OR 2. It wasn't connected at all, but was simply laying next to it's connection. It's just a rubber boot on the end of the cable that pushes over a ball pin type of connection. I pushed it back on, had my wife turn the key on (but not the engine!) and go through the gears while I watched from beneath. Everything looked fine, so I test drove it and am happy to report that so far so good!!! No more delay when putting it in gear, no more rough downshifts at traffic lights. I'm curious to know how the thing was moving at all without that cable connected, but I'm assuming the computer can recognize the position of the gear selector and was doing it's best to handle the shifts accordingly?
In any event it works! Thanks for all of your suggestions and tips.
I don't need to drive the car for another day so if anyone has any suggestions in the mean time please let me know. Most of my driving is on highway and this is worrisome. Another thing, (I've had this problem for some time) from time to time it seems there is a lag in the gears shifting. For example I'm coming to a full stop and anywhere from 1 to 3 seconds after I'm at a full stop the transmission shifts into the low gear. No problems shifting while accelerating or slowing down, this happens only when I come to a stop, i.e. red light. Are these 2 problems related?
--check some of the previous posts about tranz troubles..
--seems the connector that controls the shifting-cause it's all eletronic-to shift from drive to park..
--aparently, one cure is -find the eletrical plug that goes to th trans..unplog it,and look at the contacts..-break out out your trusty swiss army knife-scrape the contacts clean, put a glob of dielectric grease in there-to keep them from corroding yor contacts again--put it back together again,and give it a shot?
-- :shades: