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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    I'll go with the advice here, but can you tell me what the difference is between Dextron & ATF3 or 4. You've recommended type 3 and told me not to use Dextron which I accept, but the link below suggests you should use Dextron so I'd just like to know what the difference is, just out of curiosity.

    Really appreciateb all the help received.
    Regards, John

    http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5757466_add-transmission-fluid-jeep-cherokee.html#ixzz- - - 17FtdSlyO
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    dextron has additives that cause the interior drive plates to stick atf type 3 or 4 is the one to use had my oil changed and the shop installed dextron and what a mess had to have mine flushed change my own now
  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    Hi tuggajb, that ties in with another thread where it was said that additives can play havoc with the seals etc:, I'll make sure it's either ATF 3 or 4, never had to be fussy before as the only time I've had to buy ATF was for power steering.
    Regards, John
  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    Hi tuggajb, bear with me on this one, but is it possible to change the filter without changing the oil, reason I ask is I've just spoken with PO and he tells me he has used 'Comma' Mopar compatable with ATF 3/4, but confirms he only cleaned the mesh filter and didn't replace [just refitted] the 'O' ring, also hasn't topped it up since.
    He also said that the box can get 'locked out' causing you to lose all but 1st, 2nd & reverse. He was told that if he disconnected the battery for several hours that that should reset the 'lockout' and everything would be back to normal, but it hadn't worked and that could point to another switch within the box requiring replacement.
    Any thoughts on the above?
    Regards
    John
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I am fixing up a 97 JGC for my kid, but the backup lights don't work. Can someome help me pinpoint the location of the backup light switch or whatever mechanism controls the backup lights? Can't find it in the Haynes manual or the shop manual, but it's in the wiring diagram. Thanks
  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    Hi, just so I know in case I need to change the Auto box, how many different ones are there for the 1998 GJC [boot hinges stamped 01 98], I ask because I also have a Scooby twin turbo with autobox and when I needed a replacement it had to be exactly the same as the as the one installed. Apparently it's all to do with the connecting pipes & electrics etc. Does the same apply to the JGC or are they all much the same and interchangable.
    Regards & thanks
    John
  • rwfanaticrwfanatic Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and it seems as though the front wheels are not engaged and that it is no longer 4 wheel drive. What could possibly be the problem? It has a QuadraTrak transmission.
  • cor2cor2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have got exactly the same problem. I will be watching for the solution in anticipation.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    Check fluid levels and check it HOT. If it's been over 30,000 mi, drop pan and replace the filter. Make sure there are no leaks in trans cooler lines. The trans on my 97 JGC was acting funny. I thought I needed a rebuild. Both trans lines were leaking. They should be bone dry. By luck I replaced them because I was already there replacing the water pump and now the trans acts OK. The leaks will reduce pressure in the line and therefor affect flow. I think this can have some affect. Transmission is still big ? for me, but based on my experience if something about the fluid is not right, it will malfunction in unpredicatable ways.
  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    Not sure if they have exactly what you need, but I found the full 180 page workshop manual for the 98 JGC 42RE auto box, for free, just had to upload a PDF and as I had a few regarding the Jeep, I did, and got it for free, you can pay if you'd prefer and it's quite cheap. Anyway heres the link, good luck.

    http://www.scribd.com/

    Just put what you're looking for in the search bar at the top.
  • johnjojohnjo Member Posts: 11
    I have a 98 ZJ GC with a 42RE auto box
    Is it possible to fit a Mangefine Filter, if so where?
    Have seen some good reports of these filters and also pics of one fitted to a Vovlo S60 [just a tad different] in-line in an external pipe. Not had a good look under mine yet so not sure even if there is a convenient place.
    Anyone got any experience or suggestions?
    Regards
    John
  • h2oroweh2orowe Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC with 52RE trans. I just replaced both transmission cooler lines. At the trans, the lines connect at the top and they are pointing down. There is very little clearance above. I doubt it would fit there. My engine is 4.0L I6. The lines run along the engine the side of the engine adjacent to top of the oil pan. In front of the the flywheel I think there is plenty of room for a smaill oil filter. On mine, all the oil pan bolts are studs. They are used to hold clips to keep the lines in place so they don't wiggle. You can use them to implement your own clips. Tran lines are metal from front of engine to trans so you'll have to cut them. Don't know about the V8.
  • toledomantoledoman Member Posts: 2
    It seems to get worse the colder it gets. I set for about 5-minutes just shifting from 2 to 4h & back. After that it seemed to work a lot better and the problem hasn't returned yet. Sounds like there is a cable under there that may need lubricated but that may have to wait until warmer weather now.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    edited January 2011
    On the 95 I had there was black box on the drivers side in behind a panel behinde the spare tire. The board inside it burt one of the copper leads and caused one of my parking lights to not work.Also I pull the box open and clearly saw the burn copper on the board. I don't kno if it's the problem but it's worth the look. Good luck.
  • jeep32jeep32 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I am experiencing problems with the tranny on cold days only (2008 Grand Cherokee 3.7)
    When I start driving, everything is fine and shifts are smoothless, however after driving about half a km, I come to a red light. If i wait for a long time for the light to change and start driving, I can almost take my foot off the brake and the vehicle hardly moves. When I press on the accelerator, the RPM goes high and the vehicle starts lurching, as if accelerating on and off, or seems like the tranny is slipping. I complete the left turn from the intersection and problem is gone for the rest of the driving.........dealer told me that the tranny goes into "limp mode" and there is nothing wrong.....I dont believe this.....maybe someone can provide opinion?
    Thanks!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Computrer controlled transmission. It's 3 years old. They want you to buy a new car. Only thing you can do is check wiring between transmission components and rest of the car. Look for a loose or corroded ground wire. Way over my head.
  • sstradsstrad Member Posts: 1
    I have an 8 cyl 2005 grand cherokee laredo. The car has always had what I call "surging" problems, sometimes worse in colder weather. Mechanics have no answer. Had tuneup & tran flush 2 yrs ago-did nothing. Someone waiting w me said they got rid of their cherokee because of "surging" issues & bought a compass. Service was never any help. Gas and trani additives seem to help for awhile. The cherokees may be working according to jeep but there is definitely a design problem. This will be my last jeep product-miss my old 87 cherokee & 2000 grand cherokee limited! I may write to Chrysler after this. Good luck.
  • handsomerobhandsomerob Member Posts: 11
    As I said once before on this forum, try stamping violently on the throttle pedal. Mine does the same as yours sometimes when its cold and this seems to cure it. In fact it cured a problem of changing gear when it shouldn't also...
  • redwingsfansfcredwingsfansfc Member Posts: 1
    My Symptoms:

    1. Ignition/Starter Click, non start Condition.
    2. Lose main power for 10 seconds, and then come back. However car will not start. Trans Over Temp light will flash in main console.

    DEALER REPLACED: First the Ignition Switch, (Same as 1 and 2 above 2 weeks later). Then the Starter. When it wouldn't start again..(this time about 3 weeks)

    I took it back and told em (dealer) that if they said it was the alternator (alt doesn't matter for ignition problems), was going to sue them for the labor and parts allready done. Must have worked. Bottom line, they said when they changed the starter it was all corroded, heavily. (orig bought in MI). So then they checked the wiring harness into the starter and found that it was melted a bit. Therefore if the starter was that corroded, it was possible it sent more amps down the line than normal. They fixed that part of the harness, and since then, no problems. Mind you I never got to see any of the parts, nor fixed it myself... but that seems to have solved me. Ignition... probably ripped off. Starter? I have seen enough of these that tells me that possibly Jeep put on a substandard starter that leads to all these conditions back up the line. Anyways.. still holding breath.
  • collin21collin21 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 95 laredo and i replaced the tranny in it but still not new i had a problem filling the torque converter but than figured it needed to be in neutral but now it makes a weird clicking noise in it when its trying to shift everyonce inawhile so i let off of it and it will normall shift through it but i can gigure out wat the problem it with it
  • collin21collin21 Member Posts: 2
    how do u figure out if its a 42 or 43 or wat really would appreciate the tip
  • diymarinediymarine Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a Cherokee for cheap with a trans problem. I have not really gotten into it yet but meanings how this is my first jeep i wanted to ask some advice. During acceleration it does not want to upshift. You press the accelerator down a little ways and you go just fine but when you would think the trans would shift the rpms just climb. you can trick it into shifting when you play with the rpms. get it above 3k and take your foot from the accelerator until the rpms drop blow 1.5k and then put your foot back into it. other than that i am happy with it so far. Any ideas what it might be?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    According to my 97 jeep shop manual the potential culprits are: throttle linkage or gear linkage stuck or misadjuster, front band out of adjustment, governor component electrical fault, clutch or servo malfunction. Given age of vehicle I would check linkages and adjust band. Believe it or not your trans will do funny things if it's low on fluid. I made that mistake once. My mechanic said you have to check fluid level HOT.
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    When it idles, does it idle normally or does the rpm fluxuate.?
  • diymarinediymarine Member Posts: 2
    Just discovered today that when it is in gear and i am at a light it feels like the trans grabs now and then. The rpms drop from the load but the rpms never go above idle. And my fluid level is good. I will look into linkages when i get some light. Thanks
  • annier2annier2 Member Posts: 1
    Help PLEASE!! Bought my Jeep in July 2008, its a 2005. Had 29,000 miles, now has 69,400. Check engine light came on, said it was the transmission, had that checked & was told its a cell?! Check engine light went off jeep okay. Started to hear a slight vibration, turned off radio and heat to listen and didn't hear but felt something out of the ordinary,just 10 days ago sounded like drivers front tire was going to come off and thought I had a flat tire, a tie rod, (just guessing)stopped @ my mechanics, he took it for a ride, heard the noise, put it on the rack and said I honestly don't know. The noise comes and goes and feels like a "thud" while driving. I'm at my whitts end and don't want to be taken advantage of, being a female. This is my second Jeep, love them but this is annoying and scary. I'm afraid to get on the interstate. Any suggestions ppppppplease.
  • wolfcat244wolfcat244 Member Posts: 2
    i have had same problem. ive owned it 6 months. it had 30000 when i bought it. at three months it wouldn't start had the trans overtemp code. dealer changed starter it worked for three months then wouldn't start again. now it is a computer module with a price of $650 (parts labor). We will see if this works i get it back weds. it now has 35500 on it. :mad:
  • kjbmankjbman Member Posts: 1
    When driving at around 40mph I am experiencing a stutter. Engine doesn't change RPM, goes away if I speed up or slow down. Any ideas?
  • madhazemadhaze Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same issue. Did you ever have the stalling problem after getting the shifter bezel replaced?
  • chemosabechemosabe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 JGC purchased used in 2008. At APPROXIMATELY 100K MILES, THE TRANS WOULD NOT GO INTO REVERSE FORWARD GEARS WERE FINE. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND WAS TOLD TRANS WAS SHOT AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THEY REPLACE TRANS WITH REMAN UNIT (THANK GOD FOR XTENDED WARRANTY COVERAGE ONLY COST ME $100 DEDUCTIBLE). NOW AT 147K MILES TRANS HAS A DELAY SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR ON LEFT TURNS. TOOK IT TO AAMCO THEY ARE SAYING INTERNAL PROBLEM AND WILL NEED TO BE OVERHAULED. QUESTION IS ... HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE ELSE AND AM I TO EXPECT TO REPLACE TRANSS EVERY 50K?
  • woliver1woliver1 Member Posts: 1
    GETTING VERY LOUD "THUMP" WHEN AUTO TRANS DOWNSHIFTS FROM 4TH TO 3RD. NO SUCH PROBLEM WHEN USING MANUAL MODE OR WHEN UP-SHIFTING OR ACCELERATING. PERHAPS GETTING "LOCK-UP" IN "D" AND "5" GEAR? NO DTC'S PRESENT. MECHANIC SAYS UNDER DRIVE CVI-74 (HIGH) REC: REPLACE FRONT PUMP AND INSPECT U.D. PISTON TECH ADVISED DUE TO MILEAGE (100K) IF TRANS IS OUT TO INSSPECT FOR O.H. MECH WANTS $2,000-$3,000. SERVICE HAS ALWAYS BEEN TIMELY. QUESTIONS: IS REBUILD NORMAL FOR 100K? IS THERE SOMETHING LESS EXPENSIVE THAT CAN BE DONE BEFORE REMOVING TRANS? IT'S LIKE GOING IN FOR HEART TRANSPLANT BEFORE TRYING ASPIRIN. HOW ABOUT A FLUID FLUSH FIRST? ANY SUGGESTIONS OR RECOMMENDATIONS?
  • jdowdy89jdowdy89 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 1998 jeep Grand Cherokee for a great price but it has a trans problem it wont shift from 2nd to 3rd with out letting off the gas and letting it drop rpms somewere between 3 and 1.5 does any one have any ideal what to check i have checked the fluid leavel and it look ok i have not check the filter iam not sure if its been changed since 98 is there anyway this could be the problem
  • aberccabercc Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee has started to shake violently, and seems to almost stall, when I shift into reverse. It feels as if the gears are possibly slipping? I can keep my foot on the brake, and give it a minute or so, and it does fine, but if I let my foot off of the brake immediately after shifting, it starts acting up. It even does it when I'm not pressing the accelerator. If I try to accelerate, it causes even more of the shaking. If I let off of the brake, it will slowly back up, while shaking and almost stalling, for approximately 15 seconds, and then it's fine. Other than this issue, it runs, and shifts perfectly fine. I don't have this issue throughout the day...mainly just the first time I start the car for the day. I've collected the codes, which are P 1491, P 0122, and P 0455. Would any of these have anything to do with the problem? What are some things I can look at to try and solve the problem myself...I'd really like to try and avoid taking it into a mechanic!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    According to my 97 Jeep shop manual it could be a lot of things plus my manual is 6 years older than your jeep but: I suggest you check the gear shift linkage or if it's all electronic find a way to make sure shift lever position is being detected and processed poperly. For example, using a voltmeter I can test the throttle position sensor to make sure it is giving good info to engine computer.
  • richgyrl99richgyrl99 Member Posts: 1
    did u find out the problem? i have 2006 doin same thing i brought to 2 jeep dealers they dont know issue. the engine flashes so when i put on computer no codes are stored. please let me know before i trade it in thx
  • uncfuzuncfuz Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 220,000 miles. I had the transmission rebuilt 1 1/2 years ago. Now the light on the dash to turn the overdrive off for towing mode is staying on all the time. It has no pick up and go it just is slow starting to accelerate. Once driving things are fine just dont pull out into busy traffic from a dead stop unless you have the room. I tried disconnecting wire connectors on the trans to see if one of them would make the light go out and none did. I read that since this is a 1995 to read the transmission codes your supposed to watch this light blink after turning the key for codes but since mine stays on it doesnt even blink. I have not found anyone familiar with this problem. I am plenty capable of doing the repair if I was to know what to repair and where to look. Someone told me might be a speed sensor but where is it? Which senor is it? Is it inside or outside the transmission? Any help would be appreciated.
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    I'm assuming your transmission is a 42RE. An article describing that model is at: link title. Google "42RE manual" to find manuals online. I found one at: link title. Hope this helps. Please let us know your progress.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I had a problem with backup light switch. The problem was that the switch was not getting 12V. You need to check +12 at switch or wire into trans if switch is internal. You also need to check the Ground wire. If +12 at the switch is not OK ou need a wiring diagram so you can trace it. In my case I traced it all the way back to the fuse box. +12 was OK on wire coming out of fuse box. I saw no obvious break in wire, but am unable to inpect it everywhere. I hooked up another wire, pressing a thin connector end into the fuse box along with the fuse. Then, I cut wire 1/2 way between trans and fuse box. Then I spliced in the new +12V. If you have this problem and splice does not give you +12 at the switch, it means wire problem is further downstream. I spliced mine at the firewall and it was ok. GND wire is easier to fix. You just need good connection to the chassis.

    If your +12 wire has rubbed bare and is shorting to ground, the fuse should be blow.

    Note: Electical switches are either active high (+12) or active low (GND). When you cut a wire you are making it float. Depending on circuit, it will float high, low or in between. My guess is most auto circuits will not have a pullup or pulldown resistor due to cost so it will go in between. If cutting a wire fixes it, it just means you were really lucky.
  • rjcs2011rjcs2011 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2003 JGC Laredo 4x4 inline 6 with 107,500 miles. Haven't had any major mechanical problems with it and have owned it for two years. Just within the last couple of months it has been making almost a grinding sound when shifting into reverse in the morning after sitting at night and shaking. It will stop and run fine if I put it into another gear then back in reverse. Well tonight it decided that it doesn't want to go back into reverse anymore. It's never slipped gear so we don't think the whole transmission is going out, and all of the 4x4 gears work fine - except for reverse. It doesn't make the usual regular shifting noise when you put it into gear for reverse, and when you rev it sounds and feels like you're just in neutral....could it be a vacuum or sensor issue with the reverse gear? We don't have any $$ to take it to a mechanic... :( All help would be TREMENDOUSLY appreciated! Oh - and the tranny fluid was just about bone dry so we refilled it with a couple of quarts and still nothing.
  • gerthebeargerthebear Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I have the exact same vehicle, with the with the exact same symptoms
    and exact same problem. The overdrive light is on all the time and it takes off
    in high when in drive. . This means that line pressure from the pump
    is reaching the High or direct clutch and the intermediate band, applying both
    and putting the transmission in high gear before you even take off.
    I did the same as you did and disconnected all the electrical wires on
    the transmission, transfer case and overdrive. Light stays on and still takes
    off in high gear. So I am thinking that the trouble is inside the transmission.
    My guess: governor solenoid always open, or valve body problem
    Hope somebody somewhere has the answer. Cheers Gerry
  • zack88zack88 Member Posts: 1
    About a month ago I purchased a 94 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 country edition. A few days later I started having some issues. After the jeep is warmed up and I turn it off. If I restart the jeep while It's still warm and put it in reverse it'll die almost always. Sometimes takes a dozen times before it will stay running. Also, lately when I'm driving down the road if I hit a bump or sometimes just go up a hill the jeep will feel like its jerking back. I took it to a mechanic and he promised me it was the idle air control. So he replaced it and I picked it up a few days after he had it and 300 dollars later. And same problem later that day after I picked it up. I took it back to the mechanic and now he says I need the transmission rebuilt and the transmission is causing both above problems. This jeep has 134,000 miles and is the 4.0 inline 6. The jeep doesnt rev up between gears or anything. Has anyone else had this problem?? I also thought it could have been the crank shaft position sensor but the mechanic swears it isn't but would be happy to change that part for another 200 dollars if I'd like. What should I do? I'm pretty sure this mechanic sucks and I'm going for a 2nd opinion but just seeing if anyone else has had this possible "transmission" issue.
  • saigam709saigam709 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a Cherokee for cheap with a trans problem. I have not really gotten into it yet but meanings how this is my first jeep i wanted to ask some advice. During acceleration it does not want to upshift. You press the accelerator down a little ways and you go just fine but when you would think the trans would shift the rpms just climb. you can trick it into shifting when you play with the rpms. get it above 3k and take your foot from the accelerator until the rpms drop blow 1.5k and then put your foot back into it. other than that i am happy with it so far. Any ideas what it might be?
  • saigam709saigam709 Member Posts: 3
    i've already changed some filters and plugs but still there is problem..do i need to get the new transmission plates?
  • boazbezboazbez Member Posts: 14
    You don't say what year your jeep is or what model.

    The mid '90s Grand Cherokee can get shifting problems related to the governor solenoid and input sensor. (Also the TPS-Throttle Position Sensor).

    Here is an article about the solenoid on the 4.0L mid '90s Grand Cherokee.
    http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442673
  • nnealnneal Member Posts: 72
    You don't mention what year Cherokee it is so I'm not sure what transmission you have in it. I have a 98 Cherokee that had a similar problem. Taking off in 1st was fine but after that it would rev up like it was in neutral. Sometimes "dancing" on the pedal would get me through to the next gear. Finally I found out the plug end of the wire harness that plugs into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) had loose prongs so it wasn't making a good connection. At first I thought it was the TPS itself but later found out it was the plug. I would check to make sure your TPS is okay first, then if that checks out OK, wiggle the wire harness around it to see if that makes the engine idle up or down suggesting a bad connection somewhere.
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    Buy a new solenoid kit, filters and seals, drain the gearbox pan and change the solenoids. (you may need to flush burned oil residues). Seal well (the pan is too flexible and difficult to seal with just a gasket) and refill with light gearbox oil. Providing no electrical wiring problem it should do the trick.
  • mgraumannmgraumann Member Posts: 1
    im working on an 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with a 5.7 Hemi. Here is my problem: when moving the shifter lever from reverse to neutral or neutral to reverse it makes a clunk sound BUT it drives normal in all gears. I was told it was the shift lever asembly module. this module can be replaced by itself or as a whole unit when replacing the shift lever assembly. i have replaced the entire shift lever assembly and it still makes the clunk when moving into neutral from reverses and vice versa. I was told also to have it reflashed or programed and Perkins DODGE/JEEP say they cant do it. What is the problem and what is the fix ANYBODY?????
  • saigam709saigam709 Member Posts: 3
    MY jeep is Year 2000 Grand cherokee laredo..i took it to mechanic and he changed some plugs and filters but there is still the same prblem?
  • brich522brich522 Member Posts: 1
    It runs fine until it warms up, then it acts like it slips out of over-drive. Even when cruise is on it still does it. Every now and then it will shift hard when accelerating from a dead stop. Also after warming up, when idleing the engine revs up about every 30 secs. Any ideas what the problem may be and how to fix it?!?
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