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See this web-site:
http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/
Jack ....in Colorado
WHAT NOW???
Can fuel injectors be manually cleaned rather than chemically cleaned?
Can fuel injectors be replaced or repaired?
What sort of a task is it? How much would it tend to be?
I just don't see that "umpteenth" bottle of Fuel Injector Treatment as being likely to work. I've tried half a dozen or more bottles of the stuff already. Wiling to try more ofcourse but at some point it just has to be acknowledged that hi-test gasoline and fuel injector cleaner additives are NOT going to cure the problem.
What now???
Can fuel injectors be manually cleaned rather than chemically cleaned?
Typically, if you're going through the trouble of pulling them out, its more cost effective to just change them...
Can fuel injectors be replaced or repaired?
Replaced, Yes...repaired, unlikely.
What sort of a task is it? How much would it tend to be?
I'm not sure of price as I've never had to mess with them...you have to remove the fuel rails to take the injectors out, I don't remember what else you have to remove to get to them.
I bet the hot metal smell is the cat converter as its getting really hot due to the misfire issue...
I just got back from a 2 week travelling trip.
Prior to the trip, the dealer installed a monitoring capture device that I could enable if I had the problem and get some info to take back.. unfortunately, I didn't have the problem.. I decided to pull the trigger and have the crankshaft sensor changed... I had to do something to see if it would resolve the problem.. All was looking good until my LAST stop for gas on the highway coming home.. it did it again ....arrggg...... :confuse:
I'll have to let them know that we can eliminate that component as the issue..
..it really is just like I don't get fuel to start the thing up.. strange.. I'll keep you posted of any news..
thanks to fleastiff for the URL on that claim. I understand a similar case has occurred in the Province of Ontario so I'll be looking to see how that progresses..
Cheers
How did he determine that you had a bad injector(s)?
This was telephonic. I told him they were bad simply because all those bottles of cleaner have not worked. And I understand that the "next step" is to replace the fuel injectors.
A previous person posted that there was activity in one of the States.
I'm in Ontario, Canada and I just recently heard about litigation that is up and coming.. Thanks!
I did determine that ALL the coolant was gone so there must be some sort of leak and the oil was about a quart low. After these fluid deficiencies are corrected, I intend to attempt a restart and see what happens. Maybe I will be able to resurrect the vehicle. Maybe not.
>but you already said your oil looks good with no coolant in it so I doubt this one
Well, I think it WAS good, but now the head gasket is indeed blown and all the coolant is inside the engine. Mechanic is saying 900 for "new" engine and 900 for labor. 90 day warranty.
>leads me towards the fuel injector or the ignition coil for cylinder # 1.
You were probably right, but all those Fuel Injector cleaning bottled only helped a bit and I guess I delayed too much in getting it to a mechanic to figure out the next step of actually replacing fuel injectors and testing coils and cams.
Once it lost all the coolant and got hot enough to send smoke/steam out the tailpipe and engine compartment, I figured something real serious had happened.
I do want to thank everyone for their assistance though.
Remove top front motor mounts (2)
Remove throttle & cruise control cables from throttle
Remove air intake plumbing
Put trans in neutral
Use ratcheting strap attached to engine lift lug and rotate engine forward about 20-40 degrees & hold
Remove ignition coils
Remove rear plugs
no heat but stll over heating. Changed stat and radiator cap already water pump seems OK
Thanks
R.Karch
The pulley is made in two parts with a rubber piece separating the two. This gets old and the pulley starts to come apart. The first sign of a failure will be wear on the belt.
This is an easy fix through the passenger side wheel well with common sockets and a puller. Cost FROM DEALER ONLY is around $125.00.
If you look at the pulley face the two pieces of the pulley that are metal should be even with each other.
1998 Chev Venture 160,000 km
The other night we had a big snowfall (not sure if that matters) I drove home in this and parked the car out front of my house. No problems.
The next morning I go to start the van, startss running real rough, the check engine light flashes and the oil PRESSURE light comes on. I drive it back to my house (about 200 feet) and the bus idles real bad for about 30 seconds then dies. Oil level is good.
I started the van this morning and drove it around back and into my garage, ran like HELL and lights still on. I know it wasn't the best to drive it but I need it in my garage not on the street.
It sounds like an oil pump but man there was no warning, do pumps just GO or do they usually give a warning?
How can I test the pump?
Is there anything electrical that it can be? I was thinking something got disconnected or wet or something during the drive in the snow?? Sounds unlikely but one never knows
What about the timing belt? I have never changed that, if it jumped timimg would it cause these symptoms?
Thanks I will run a scan on it tonight and let you know the results.
Shawn
I got P0172 and P0300 codes. I then erased the codes and started the van for about 30 seconds and kept it running (gave gas)
The only code that came back was the P0300
What can be causing this?
2. Cost to fix on a 2000 probably exceeds value of vehicle. If you go for the repair, you need to add in new radiator since the Dexcool clogs that up as well.
3. My advice to you is RUN, do not buy unless you have capability to repair yourself. I had same problem and landed up changing engines myself. If you decide to go that direction let me know, I have written a how to guide to assist.
4. As far as having problems related to the oil filler cap, that is one on me. Something else transpired like knocking the PCV valve out of the rocker cover.
Good Luck Lloyd Ballard Sequim, WA lloydballard@hotmail.com
Changed EGR Valve
Changed fuel filter
Still same symptoms it starts and runs real rough then dies
What is next step?
PO300 is random misfires detected.
Sounds like a bad ignition control module to me or fuel system issue (injector or system pressure)
I would start by checking those 2 areas in that order
Good Luck...
Are you losing antifreeze? The intake manifold gaskets are always suspect on the 3.4 but they might have replaced that when they replaced your head gasket.
Something else to check: check to see that the air was bled out of the cooling system. There are 2 air bleeders, one by the waterpump and one near the thermostat housing. They need to be opened when you're refilling the system. Maybe you've got some air in there and the waterpump is getting airbound?
Just some thoughts...Good Luck
:shades:
Any ideas? :mad:
Any ideas?
Searching the web...there seems to be a TON of complaints about this....
Thanks.
-Brian
If your intake manifold gasket was going south, you would have found antifreeze in the oil and your AF level would slowly go down.
"This morning the van went into the Red on the temp gauge by the time I passed the fire station on 1/4 mile down the road. I turned around and by 1/8th mile away the temp was back down. The gauge kept fluctuating up to 3/4 of the way to HOT until I got to half way to work. The Low Coolant light was on almost all of the way. When I got on the freeway the temp stayed at the low end of the white bar. I did notice that when I stopped at a light the engine felt like it would stall but kept going.... I looked at the coolant overflow tank when I got to work and it was full to the cap. "
I am thinking it sounds like the thermostat and that the fan is not kicking on. We used some leak stop during the leak phase and maybe that gunked it up? I really don't want it to be the head gasket, we just can't afford it right now. This is our only running vehicle at the moment! Because of the hoses sucking flat I was wondering if there was a pinch or something somewhere. I plan on having him take it in for coolant flush when he gets home from work to see if that helps.
Not pleased of what I'm getting for it but such is life in this market.
I needed to update my thread here to state that I only experienced the "no start after running" scenario that one time after changing the crank shaft sensor. So, I would like to think it resolved my issue. Thanks fo 442dude for the perfect diagnosis!! :shades: Even GM wouldn' t offer that as an option for me, so I paid for it myself.. As a going away present of my extended warranty (ended), they redid the gaskets again on the manifolds or the heads.. I don't recall which but that was the 4th time there was activity in this area done on this vehicle.. totally unacceptable - oh and they changed the thermostate..running like a charm again..so lets get rid of this now since the warranty has expired... I've purchased a different company vehicle this time to give them a chance.. Good luck all.
after changing the thermostat , coolant sensor , new redesign water pump by GM,
it was still OVERHEATING , got some information at GM autoshop , and they
told me that the main cause ( on most cases ) is the INTAKE MANIFOLD &
the UPPER MANIFOLD ( plenum ) , the INTAKE MANIFOLD is made of plastic resistance to high temp I guess , the kit comes with all four gaskets and the
HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICON , please get the HAYNES service manual for this vehicle if your planning to fix it yourself . After installing the gaskets, and filling it up with the coolant , I turn on the vehicle , the needle was around the middle most of the time , first day was OK , but the second day the gauge went up to the RED ZONE , What happen is that I forgot to bleed the air out where the coolant circulates , theres two bleeders , one near the water pump & the other near the thermostat. I hope this helps . good luck
the base of the filler neck , if it isnt , ADD coolant until it is . SQUEEZE the upper RADIATOR hose gently to make sure all remaining AIR is expelled , then ADD coolant until the level is up to the base of RADIATOR neck , repeat as necesary.
INSTALL the radiator cap , then close the BLEEDER screw above the
WATER PUMP first , then the one on the thermostat housing .FILL coolant reservoir up to the COLD mark . now run engine until it reaches normal temperature , then turn it off , let it cool and re check coolant level.
what I did to fix the problem for good was to replace the upper Manifold (plenum)
and the intake manifold , replace the water pump , by the way the new water pump has been re Design by GM I guess to improve the water flow , its got bigger propellers , also replace the THERMOSTAT , it could be that your vehicle is heavy sludge because of the dexcool . Have it flush with a SUPER FLUSH for half an hour once the vehicle reaches normal temperature , normal reading in gauge is half to 3/4 before the fans turn on, then the needle drops again to 1/2.
the correct procedure when ready to add NEW coolant is to open both BLEEDERS , one next to the water pump and the other next to the THERMOSTAT
3/4 turn , add coolant until it reaches the neck of the radiator , wait for awhile , and add again till it reaches the neck, when it doesnt go down , close the BLEEDERS starting with the one next to the water pump , then the other one. also replace the RADIATOR CAP with the original replacement ONLY. AJ
I've tried the bleeders but the one on the left takes forever to get the air out. I've even tried patiently adding coolant directly down the bleeder and it still keeps disappearing. I do think I'll try replacing the pump and thermostat.
Also are motors with a 4t65-e tranny other then the m15 still work with a m15 tranny.