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Let me know Please
Toolzz
Toolzz
Thanks
Sorry I've been away for Christmas. It was Pete at Folsom Lake Dodge in Folsom CA.
:} Anna
If there is voltage at the control but none at the blower, check the resistors. They stick into the air passage between the blower and the heater core. It should be connected with a plug and I believe the resitors are on a plate that can be removed.
The blower, resistors and control are all replacable parts.
Good Luck
Go to the parts counter at the dealer and they will copy the pictures and be sure to get the list of the descriptions. They will give it to you for free. You should be able to identify 3 flaps or doors. You should be able to see the one that goes between the hole for AC and heater. The actuator is connected to the shaft of the door and bolts to the duct. The pictures from the parts catelogue will show where it goes.
Thanks :mad:
What could the issue be?
There are two small round metal and rubber high pressure gaskets about the size of a water hose gasket but thinner that are where the two aluminum tubes bolt to the top of the compressor. These seals can slowly leak causing a freon loss. If you decide to just add freon, use the freon without oil as you haven't lost the oil from the system. If you decide to change the seals, you should have a vacuum drawn on the system before recharging. That way you get all the moisture out.
My heater only works sometimes. More specifically, the blower works but only blows cold air. When I don't need the heater, it works just fine. The temperature gage occasionally reads high. I have also noticed that sometimes, when the fan switch and the heat/AC/Fan selector switch is turned off, there will be heat coming out of the vents (small amount). When I flip the fan and heater switches on; the air turns cold. When this has happened before I have changed the thermostat. This time a new thermostat did not fix the problem. What else should I consider checking?
Julie
Julie
Curious about the temp gauge, though. When you start from cold, the gauge will go up just above normal for a minute or so, and then should drop back to normal. What this indicates is the point at which the thermostat opens.
Now, my A/C isn't puttin out cold air, so I had the shop do a test and refill the freon a couple weeks ago. A week later, there is no more freon, so I take it to another shop. They do a leakage test with dye in the freon and can't detect anything in the engine comparment... and they said it is most likely the Evaporator Core behind the dash... and this will cost almost $1000 to replace. Is this really the problem, or is this shop blowing "hot air"? Also, it is even worth it to replace?
Please advise.
Thanks!
Most of the time the freon leaks are from the hoses, O rings and fittings but......
If you suspect the evaporator, have the freon drained at the AC place and see if you can attach some fittings to the evap inlet and outlet to do a pressure test to see if it leaks. You don't have to take it off if you can attach some hoses or fittings As far as I know the evap. is bolted to the firewall with 4-5 bolts or nuts and can be removed yourself with out getting under the dash. Then you could have it checked with the dye and UV light. If it's bad you could either buy a new one or get a used one from the junk yard that doesn't leak. In either case it's no where near $1000.
If the evap is OK check to see the clutch to the compressor isn't slipping. When the bearing goes bad after 90,000 miles it ejects ball bearings which get trapped in the clutch until they disintegrate causing the clutch to slip.
Also you might want to check the receiver-drier. It acts as a filter to the system and if it gets plugged up then the freon dosn't go to the evap as much as it should. They don't cost much and are easy to replace.
Hope this helps
I know a few things about cars... but mostly because of whats been replaced... other than that... you don't want me around to help... haha.
Heres the thing. I took it to one shop just to do a basic test and add freon... and it worked fine for a little bit. I had no need for A/C until a week later, and found it wasn't working. So I took it to another shop, and they did the same tests, and added more freon... this time adding dye to it, and they didn't find any leak in the engine compartment. The shop owner suggested that it was the Evaporator Core and it needed to be replaced... for almost 1k.
I have a cousin that could help me if I can dial in the primary issues... but don't really know if I should take what the mechanic said as the truth.. or a waste of time. I want to take it to a 3rd place... but these A/C tests run 70 dollars plus every single time.
What do you think???
I had this exact same problem on my '99 model. Couldn't find a leak anywhere, and then of all things, my son could actually hear the soft hiss of the leak! Nothing wrong with that kids hearing!
The seals are about $5-$10 each, takes about five minutes to replace, but then the system needs to be evacuated (vacuum draw down) and recharged. Hope this helps you out. Definitely cheaper (and a whole lot easier) than changing the evaporator core.
My '99 2DR Chevy Blazer has already had a new water pump installed...just about 5 months ago. About 3 months ago, (during the COLD of PA winter...haha) I noticed that my heater was not working. It seems when I am driving about 55 mph or less, it just will not work, and then the temp shoots up to about 240. However, my drive to work is about 45 minutes, and a good portion of that is on an interstate with a speed limit of 65. When I am going that fast, the temp drops down, and magically I have heat again. When it first happened back in probably January, my husband replaced the thermostat (easy fix) and it worked like a charm until probably about late March. Then the same thing started happening again. Any ideas? I would be very appreciative!!! Thanks!
When you say the air is hot, do you mean hot like in ambient outside, or hot as in heater?
the dash vents.
I've checked to see that the 2 vacuum hoses are connected to the heater/AC diaphragm on the floor. Maybe the other ends aren't connected.
Questions
1. Could this be the reason that the baffles don't adjust to bring the air to the dash vents?
2. If so, is there a diagram showing their location on the other side of the firewall?
3. Is there a handy "how to" cheat sheet to disassemble/reassemble the heating/AC system if it turns out that the diaphragm is bad?
My Chilton manual is lacking any information on how to troubleshoot this problem,
Thanks a million,
Jbil
It has a very, VERY slow leak. Actually, it had two leaks. We found one and repaired it, the other is yet to be found. My complaint is that the little beast only holds about 32 ounces of R134a freon when fully charged, but if it loses just 4-6 ounces, the compressor starts short cycling and cooling performance drops in half.
So, every six months or so I have to buy a $7 can of R134A, use 1/2 or less of it, and head on down the road. Not losing any oil, dye doesn't show up anywhere, so we are talking TINY leak, somewhere.
You could throw major bucks at a problem like this, and never fix it.
As for the rest. There is a flap that controls if air comes from outside and the AC evaporator or the heater. The actuators go bad. sometimes the bearing doesn't work and the flap rubs against the housing. If the hot water is going through the core and the air is cold this is the problem. There are other flaps for the defroster and the floor. Verify they move and if not determine if the actuator or the control is not working. There could be a damaged or disconnected control vacuum hose. I suggest going to the Chevy dealer and get photocopies of the duct and heater - AC which they will give you for free. It will help you locate the flaps and actuators.
1 "ACDelco 15-72182 A/C And Heater Vacuum Control Valve"
Misc.; $53.27 ... dealer wanted $900 to install ... $95 for part... Amazon.com Price @$50.
Its a bear to get at bascially behind dash near the ashtray area screwed to the AC duct work... There are two screws on the backside of the valve that hold it in place... I nipped the mounting tabs on first one I installed so I can more easily replace it .. good thing I did ... these units get sticky and cause wierd air flows ... expect scars... lots of sharp edges in side the dash
1998-2002 Chevrolet Blazer (full size) A/C - Heater Solenoid Valve
AC Delco #15-72182
GM- #16171742
MSRP: $120.57
Dealer Cost: $62.70
4 door
4WD
130,000+ miles
I do NOT have automatic temperature control.
The A/C blows only hot air. The vents DO get warmer if I turn the temp dial to heat. I do not hear the compressor clutch engaging nor do I see/hear the accompanying load increase on the engine. I have checked the low side pressure and it actually reads high (in the red on the cheapo gauge that comes with the cheapo recharge kit).
How do you check the compressor to see if it is bad or not?
Or, is there something else that may be causing this?
I replaced most of the A/C system a couple of years ago with the help of a mechanic friend. The compressor shelled and contaminated the system with bits of metal. We flushed, replaced parts and had the whole thing working great. About 3 months later I parked it... for about nine months. It was when I started driving it again that the A/C no longer worked.
Assuming that it will turn then the problem lies elsewhere. The wire you disconnected is the signal to engage the clutch and the electricity isn't getting through. This is because there are a couple of safety sensors checking for pressures in range. The fact that the low side is out of range indicates the low side sensor is not allowing the signal through. The high side may have a sensor too. In any event these are safety devices to prevent the compressor frombuilding up too much pressure and exploding the pipes and connectors. This is what happens when air gets in the system. The compresor will keep compressing the air until something bursts. Normally the coolant will be compressed from a gas to a liquid and pressure will remain normal. But you probably have lots of air in the system. Coolant leaks out generally through the seals where the hoses connect to the compressor and dryer etc. They have little O rings and special seals which may have cracks or are installed incorrectly. I got some seals from the auto part store that looked right but wern't. this part is really tricky and could be your problem. Anyway you have to get all the air out of the system before you recharge. You can't just add more coolant. That won't work. Then when you get it running again there is a test that can detect leaks which you should do around any thing that has seals in it. Good Luck
Doug
How easily should the shaft turn? I tried to turn it and it did not budge. I actually scraped some metal filings off trying to get it to spin. Do I remove the belt to try this? Or is it safe to say that it is frozen up? I priced a new compressor and I must say I am not looking forward to replacing this thing.
I have yet to try applying any voltage directly to it. I have to rig something up. Plus I need to wait until it stops raining.
Thanks,
Ken
It's frozen. It should turn pretty easy. The clutch drive plate is on the front and easy to get to. It's disengaged from the drive pully. Normally the electricity pulls the drive plate and pulley toghether. You don't need to remove anything.
As far as the compressor it ony two bolts on top holding it on. You can get them off in 2 minutes. Disconnect the hoses and take off the drive belt. You can drive it that way until the new parts arrive. The AC belt doesn't drive anything else I don't think. You can try again to turn the compressor but it sounds like its frozen.
When you charge the system you need to put quite a bit of ester oil in the new compressor. You can buy at the local auto store.Without it it's like running an engine w/o oil. It will seize.
You need to flush the drier and evaporator and condesser to get any metal filings out that may have come from the compressor when it siezed. Figure out which way the coolant flows in the system and then blow through the dryer, condenser and evap in the opposite direction. Use AC flush and clean that you can buy at the auto store too. I think I used a hose and funnel to get as much flush as I could and then an air compressor to blast it through. I don't know if this is the approved way but it worked.
I bought a new compressor with a new clutch online for $160 - $200. I assembeled evertything and took it into a automeotive AC shop and had the system evacuated and filled with coolant for about $85. They can check to see if the pressure is right and the seals arn't leaking as part of the service.
Doug
The sloshing noise probably is the heater. I noticed that the heater core is pretty high and the hoses leading to it are longer than they need to be so they arch up. If there is air inn the system it will goe to the highest spot which is the heater core and hoses. Re route the hosesso they are lower than the heater. Make them shorter if necessary. Then find a way to bleed the air out of the system. Once there is no air in the system the noise will go away.