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Chevrolet Blazer Heating and Air Conditioning

2

Comments

  • toolzztoolzz Member Posts: 4
    Anna - May I ask what dealer you took your truck into for repairs ? I live in Waukesha County. I'm at my wits end with this POS. I went to my local mechanic that I trust and he believes it to be a heater core. I don't think it is. I'd like the advice of the dealer.
    Let me know Please
    Toolzz
  • toolzztoolzz Member Posts: 4
    I have been trying to troubleshoot my ZR2's lack of heating. ( see message # 53 ) I have found that after the engine has reached temperature 195 deg. and I have the fan on with the heat on ( NO climate control ) I have about 165 deg. on the inlet hose to my heater core and about 109 deg. on the return line from the core.If I take the truck for a short drive I have heat coming out like I usually did. After driving approx. 5 mins. I start to loose heat out of my air supply ducts. Is this a partially plugged heater core ? I only have 58 k miles on the truck . I also noticed that with the truck ideling, the heater on / fan on 2, my A/C compressor clutch was kicking on / off sparatically. After returning from a short drive to test it, the A/C comp. did not kick in. Any help would be appreciated.
    Toolzz
  • woodboatchickwoodboatchick Member Posts: 2
    have read all the threads about the blend door & related. This 98 is on its fourth heater door, the one that directs the heat to the floor or to the defrost or the vents. The temperature is controllable so we know the "blend door" is OK, but we have little or no heat to the floor. It's a $15 part and $485 in labor since the front fender, hood and dash have to come out to replace it. At 10 years of age and 329K miles, it's still a more than serviceable vehicle, if not for this heater issue, but we would rather not dump another $500 into this door deal. I have looked at the schematics and wonder if there is some way to get at that flapper door to prop it up to allow heat to the floor area. I'm hoping that I can identify the lower box on the driver's side and carefully drill a hole that would allow me to stick a piece of coathanger, etc up to get that door up. The door's spindle is probably broken, which is what has been the case in the previous replacements. The vacuum elements are not the issue. I am working from the dealer's schematic put out by ProQuest Automotive EPC and the lower heater box that I am contemplating drilling is, I believe, # 11, in the area over the part that's labeled 14. Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm the 'house' mechanic (resp. for a 69 xk-e, 67 & 81 corvettes ">& 47 Chris Craft), so will understand any directions that are provided.
  • dm2785dm2785 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer with a heater that only seems to work when it wants to. One day it will work just fine and the next day nothing at all. It gives no warning and I have not heard any unusual noises....it's not only the heater, it's cold air too, when I turn it on nothing happens. But I can go out a couple days later and turn it on and it works fine. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

    Thanks
  • jetson2001jetson2001 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Toolzz,
    Sorry I've been away for Christmas. It was Pete at Folsom Lake Dodge in Folsom CA.
    :} Anna
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    I'm guessing when you say nothing happens you mean the blower doesn't run. If that true the control on the dash for blower speed may be worn out, the wires to the blower may not be making a good connection or the balast resistors may be broken or not making good connection. I suggest when you have the problem you check the voltage at the dash blower speed switch both in and out. The switch connects to the blower and balast resistors which switch in more or less resistance to slow the blower down. Next I would check the voltage at the blower motor. The blower is in the engine compartment. If there is voltage at the motor but it's not runing, check that the motor is grounded by hooking a seperate wire from a clean spot on the frame to the battery negative terminal or you could measure the voltage on the fram. If it's not grounded the frame will have a voltage on it and it should be zero.
    If there is voltage at the control but none at the blower, check the resistors. They stick into the air passage between the blower and the heater core. It should be connected with a plug and I believe the resitors are on a plate that can be removed.
    The blower, resistors and control are all replacable parts.
    Good Luck
  • woodboatchickwoodboatchick Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so we spent some quality time with the '98. First I went to the local Chevy dealer where the parts mgr was kind enough to give me copies of the exploded diagrams for this heater box flapper/valve/door system. It turns out that the issue for this problem centers on the 'valve' that is on the left side(driver's) side of the heater box. Due to the number of times that this dash assembly has been in and out of the SUV, a small section of the trim around the floor vents was cracked and so, easily removed so that I could see up inside. There didn't appear to be any problems with the vacuum hoses or assemblies. The goal was to get this horizontal door that allows heat to the floor ducts to open up. What the H, I took a pair of very long (straight section about 8 inches) needle nose pliers with a 45 degree angled nose and stuffed the angle part up the ducts to try to push the door open. Guess I was living right... heat on the floor!!!!!!!!! Jubilation only lasted until the next day when the same problem reoccurred. This time after pushing the door up and open, we took a piece of form wire and put a long loop in it, with the diameter of the loop about 3/4 inch. The long length of the loop was so that the raw end didn't get caught on anything and wire was used to be able to shape it to follow the contour of the duct UP to the door/valve. We did not (fortunately) ever have temp problems. The current size of the loop end creates an opening that is ok for heat supply. More supply could be created by making a larger loop end and thus holding the door farther open. You could probably recreate this repair even if the trim is not broken out like ours was; you just need to be able to stuff a loop of wire up the duct to push the door open. We made sure to disconnect the battery while we were working in there, even though it doesn't appear (from the diagrams) that there is anything electrical involved. (Be sure to have your radio reset code). We are guessing that what was happening was that this door was falling down into the opening that it was designed to close off, either through wear or a worn seal. The motor drive didn't have enough power to pull it up out of the stuck position and thus the cheap plastic drive assembly broke. So we saved ourselves a $500 repair bill, but then our house furnace's blower motor died. Guess there's just no winning some days!
  • granny1115granny1115 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 blazer and my heater doesn't work it worked fine one day and the next it doesn't can some one please help me out :cry:
  • ccfrazier2ccfrazier2 Member Posts: 1
    Recently I had the joy of replacing my heater core in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. After having everything put back in I realized that I had one part and 3 screws left over. Well, after the first cold night I realized that the part I left off was my BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR. So my question is where does it go, how do I put it back in, and can I do it with out having to take the dash board apart again? Please help I have to do as much of my own vehicle work as possible due to the fact I am a preacher so I do not have alot of money.Thanks
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    The blend door goes in the duct between the AC and heater core. It flips back and forth to blend hot and cold air even whe the AC isn't running to control the temp. That's wat the actuator does. Yes you probably do have to take the dash apart unless you can get to the place where the actuator goes. In my 96 you can't.

    Go to the parts counter at the dealer and they will copy the pictures and be sure to get the list of the descriptions. They will give it to you for free. You should be able to identify 3 flaps or doors. You should be able to see the one that goes between the hole for AC and heater. The actuator is connected to the shaft of the door and bolts to the duct. The pictures from the parts catelogue will show where it goes.
  • keljerioskikeljerioski Member Posts: 1
    Have a 1997 Chevy Blazer, my heat will not turn on when i put the switch on at all. Like other trucks it will work when it wants to and then couple days later i will get in it and it will work all on its own any ideas as to what the problem is.

    Thanks :mad:
  • hyperhtmlhyperhtml Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Chevy Blazer Compressor Clutch does not get any power when i turn on the A/C in the car...

    What could the issue be?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Low freon. There is a pressure switch on the side of the dryer (large silver canister near the firewall on the passenger side. If the freon charge is low, the pressure switch shuts down power to the clutch to protect the compressor.

    There are two small round metal and rubber high pressure gaskets about the size of a water hose gasket but thinner that are where the two aluminum tubes bolt to the top of the compressor. These seals can slowly leak causing a freon loss. If you decide to just add freon, use the freon without oil as you haven't lost the oil from the system. If you decide to change the seals, you should have a vacuum drawn on the system before recharging. That way you get all the moisture out.
  • juliemactjuliemact Member Posts: 3
    Help,

    My heater only works sometimes. More specifically, the blower works but only blows cold air. When I don't need the heater, it works just fine. The temperature gage occasionally reads high. I have also noticed that sometimes, when the fan switch and the heat/AC/Fan selector switch is turned off, there will be heat coming out of the vents (small amount). When I flip the fan and heater switches on; the air turns cold. When this has happened before I have changed the thermostat. This time a new thermostat did not fix the problem. What else should I consider checking?

    Julie
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    How many miles on the Blazer, and has the antifreeze been changed and cooling system flushed. Very important, this vehicle uses the long life Dexcool antifreeze and cannot be mixed with conventional ethalene glycol (the green stuff).
  • juliemactjuliemact Member Posts: 3
    It has 120,000 miles and yes I still use the orange antifreeze. It has been flushed and the heater core was replaced in December.

    Julie
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Julie, there is an air mix damper in the ductwork under the dash. I haven't had to work in this area, but it does sound like it could be your problem. These vehicles do not have the conventional heater control valve, so water is always flowing through the heater core. Anybody who has done work on this feel free to jump in here. :)

    Curious about the temp gauge, though. When you start from cold, the gauge will go up just above normal for a minute or so, and then should drop back to normal. What this indicates is the point at which the thermostat opens.
  • juliemactjuliemact Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply, I'll look into the damper. The temperature gauge has been going higher than it normally does, more like it's about to overheat, until I hit the interstate and begin to accelerate, then it lowers back to normal.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I know this sounds stupid, but are you sure the cooling system is full? Each of the issues you discribed can also show up with air in the cooling system. When you accelerate hard, do you hear gurgling in the area over under the glove box (heater core)?
  • truly_genwinetruly_genwine Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2000 4.3L Blazer in 2003 with 38,000 plus miles on it. Since then, I have replaced the heater core, door bushings, front driver locking mechanism, idler arm, shocks, but didn't even bother replacing those poorly made front reclining handles on the driver and passenger seats.

    Now, my A/C isn't puttin out cold air, so I had the shop do a test and refill the freon a couple weeks ago. A week later, there is no more freon, so I take it to another shop. They do a leakage test with dye in the freon and can't detect anything in the engine comparment... and they said it is most likely the Evaporator Core behind the dash... and this will cost almost $1000 to replace. Is this really the problem, or is this shop blowing "hot air"? Also, it is even worth it to replace?

    Please advise.

    Thanks!
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    First of all it is probably not the evaporator. Are you sure the freon is gone? If it is not, the blend door that mixes hot and cold air may not be moving properly. This is a common problem. Sometimes the actuator fails or the hinge is not working right. Get the parts catelog pictures from the dealer and try to verify the door is moving to the correct positions for heat or A/C.

    Most of the time the freon leaks are from the hoses, O rings and fittings but......

    If you suspect the evaporator, have the freon drained at the AC place and see if you can attach some fittings to the evap inlet and outlet to do a pressure test to see if it leaks. You don't have to take it off if you can attach some hoses or fittings As far as I know the evap. is bolted to the firewall with 4-5 bolts or nuts and can be removed yourself with out getting under the dash. Then you could have it checked with the dye and UV light. If it's bad you could either buy a new one or get a used one from the junk yard that doesn't leak. In either case it's no where near $1000.

    If the evap is OK check to see the clutch to the compressor isn't slipping. When the bearing goes bad after 90,000 miles it ejects ball bearings which get trapped in the clutch until they disintegrate causing the clutch to slip.

    Also you might want to check the receiver-drier. It acts as a filter to the system and if it gets plugged up then the freon dosn't go to the evap as much as it should. They don't cost much and are easy to replace.

    Hope this helps
  • truly_genwinetruly_genwine Member Posts: 2
    First off.. thanks for the 411.

    I know a few things about cars... but mostly because of whats been replaced... other than that... you don't want me around to help... haha.

    Heres the thing. I took it to one shop just to do a basic test and add freon... and it worked fine for a little bit. I had no need for A/C until a week later, and found it wasn't working. So I took it to another shop, and they did the same tests, and added more freon... this time adding dye to it, and they didn't find any leak in the engine compartment. The shop owner suggested that it was the Evaporator Core and it needed to be replaced... for almost 1k.

    I have a cousin that could help me if I can dial in the primary issues... but don't really know if I should take what the mechanic said as the truth.. or a waste of time. I want to take it to a 3rd place... but these A/C tests run 70 dollars plus every single time.

    What do you think???
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Have them recharge and "soap test" (literally use soapy water) around the top of the compressor where the two aluminum pipes (manifold) connect. There are two little high pressure seals in there that will flatten and leak over time.

    I had this exact same problem on my '99 model. Couldn't find a leak anywhere, and then of all things, my son could actually hear the soft hiss of the leak! Nothing wrong with that kids hearing!

    The seals are about $5-$10 each, takes about five minutes to replace, but then the system needs to be evacuated (vacuum draw down) and recharged. Hope this helps you out. Definitely cheaper (and a whole lot easier) than changing the evaporator core.
  • graceless_ladygraceless_lady Member Posts: 3
    Hey! Help would be much appreciated from anyone who can help....
    My '99 2DR Chevy Blazer has already had a new water pump installed...just about 5 months ago. About 3 months ago, (during the COLD of PA winter...haha) I noticed that my heater was not working. It seems when I am driving about 55 mph or less, it just will not work, and then the temp shoots up to about 240. However, my drive to work is about 45 minutes, and a good portion of that is on an interstate with a speed limit of 65. When I am going that fast, the temp drops down, and magically I have heat again. When it first happened back in probably January, my husband replaced the thermostat (easy fix) and it worked like a charm until probably about late March. Then the same thing started happening again. Any ideas? I would be very appreciative!!! Thanks!
  • mphrehamphreha Member Posts: 2
    I have 2000 Blazer that only blows hot air when the AC is on. I tried adding freon, however it seemed to be fully charged as it did not take much at all and continued to blow warm air. I'm thinking there is not a leak since it seems to be under pressure still. Could this be thermostat related? Any thoughts advice woudl be greatly appreciated.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Others will have more detail, but there is a baffle in the duct work under the dash that regulates the cold/hot mix from the evaporator and heater cores. If you are sure that the freon charge is correct, this may be where the problem is.

    When you say the air is hot, do you mean hot like in ambient outside, or hot as in heater?
  • mphrehamphreha Member Posts: 2
    I'm pretty sure that the freon charge is correct. We tested the pressure before and it was already in the blue/acceptable level, so we were not able to add much more. The hot air feels more like heater heat and not ambient heat.
  • bluetwinbillbluetwinbill Member Posts: 1
    Soounds like the AC clutch not kicking in as I had same problem and neighbor shows me how to "fix". The is on the right when looking at the engine, it looks like the underside of a oil filter. Anyway it is round and is supposed to spin, when ac kicks on. I guess its an electromagnetic thing which i know nothing about. Anyway just touch it with your finger or a stick real quick and it takes off spinning, at least mine did. So min works like 75% of the time. Every once in a while have to use the stick to get it going. Can you tell I'm not a mechanic? Wonder how much will cost to fix right.
  • jbiljbil Member Posts: 2
    The heater/AC on my '88 S10 Chevy Blazer blows hot/cold air well. However, when I adjust the selector to any of the AC choices, the air only blows on the floor rather than
    the dash vents.

    I've checked to see that the 2 vacuum hoses are connected to the heater/AC diaphragm on the floor. Maybe the other ends aren't connected.

    Questions

    1. Could this be the reason that the baffles don't adjust to bring the air to the dash vents?

    2. If so, is there a diagram showing their location on the other side of the firewall?

    3. Is there a handy "how to" cheat sheet to disassemble/reassemble the heating/AC system if it turns out that the diaphragm is bad?

    My Chilton manual is lacking any information on how to troubleshoot this problem,

    Thanks a million,

    Jbil
  • jimmy99sltjimmy99slt Member Posts: 9
    If your compressor is spinning and you have the automatic climate control, see air blend motor/actuator. If you don't find it in the blazer side check gmc jimmy. Its hidden behind the glovebox up and to the left. Did you ever hear a funny clicking from over there?
  • antique_maggieantique_maggie Member Posts: 10
    My hubby (the autoparts salesman) says our '92 will need a new condensor, hoses (and some other word I can't think of) to get the air blowing cold again (apparently it's gone beyond just the r-12 or whatever it takes). Anyone know what this might cost?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    '99 Blazer 4dr, 2wd. Great little suv, minimal problems, bought it for my son. but whoever designed the AC system should be flogged.

    It has a very, VERY slow leak. Actually, it had two leaks. We found one and repaired it, the other is yet to be found. My complaint is that the little beast only holds about 32 ounces of R134a freon when fully charged, but if it loses just 4-6 ounces, the compressor starts short cycling and cooling performance drops in half.

    So, every six months or so I have to buy a $7 can of R134A, use 1/2 or less of it, and head on down the road. Not losing any oil, dye doesn't show up anywhere, so we are talking TINY leak, somewhere.

    You could throw major bucks at a problem like this, and never fix it.
  • burdinkburdink Member Posts: 1
    I have a little problem with my Blazers AC controls. Changing the AC settings between Max, Normal, and Bi-level does nothing as far as changing air flow. No matter which setting it try, the air only blows from the floor and dash vents. Any ideas?
  • jrofnejrofne Member Posts: 1
    I am racking myself trying to finish removing the heater core. I have the entire dash out and removed three bolts under the hood. Are there more? (evidently) How do I get to them?
  • cold99cold99 Member Posts: 1
    99 blazer-blower works fine but no warm air. heater core isnt leaking but cant tell by touching hoses if there is circulation. air wont blow through floor but will through vents and defroster. is there a heater control valve or a flap in the air box. whichever it is where is it located- need help with this one-this chevy is about to drive me nuts
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    Your 99 probably works the same as my 96. There is no heater shutoff valve. Hot water flows through the heater core all the time. You should feel a really hot hose going into the heater. I think it's the outside hose. You should fix this problem first. Disconnect the hoses and see if they are obstructed. hook up a garden hose to the core and see if water flows through it freely. Try heavy doses of radiator cleaner and force water through the core in the reverse direction. Replace the thermostat. It's cheap and easy to replace.
    As for the rest. There is a flap that controls if air comes from outside and the AC evaporator or the heater. The actuators go bad. sometimes the bearing doesn't work and the flap rubs against the housing. If the hot water is going through the core and the air is cold this is the problem. There are other flaps for the defroster and the floor. Verify they move and if not determine if the actuator or the control is not working. There could be a damaged or disconnected control vacuum hose. I suggest going to the Chevy dealer and get photocopies of the duct and heater - AC which they will give you for free. It will help you locate the flaps and actuators.
  • ryan626ryan626 Member Posts: 2
    Same problem as posting #95. My A/C broke and the heater core started leaking both within a short period of time on my 95 Blazer, 177K miles. I bypassed the heater core (I live in South FL) and I replaced the A/C compressor/drier/expansion valve and recharged the freon. So now the A/C is cold, but blows only from floorboard and dashboard vents. Mechanic checked the vacuum tube, said it is OK, said the problem is in the vent system. The vents make a hissing noise (very annoying), but I'm not willing to take it to a mechanic for another $500 repair bill, but if I can disassemble the dash and replace the problem part, I'll give it a try. Or maybe the A/C - Vent - Heat control switch has failed?
  • ryan626ryan626 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem, my posting is # 100. I'm thinking that it's either the control switch or one of the vent doors has broken. Did you ever resolve your problem?
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    I'm not sure if there is a question in #100. The vents are controlled by a flapper is the only way to describe it. They move by an actuator whch has a small gear with teeth. Either the the teeth are striped or the shaft for the flapper has jammed or the actuator doesn't work. I'm told the teeth being stripped or the shaft being stuck is most likely. If the teeth are stripped there is a reason like the flapper is stuck, so you may have two problems in one. The actuator may be turning and the plastic against pastic sound may sound like hissing. I'm not sure. Hissing could be air under pressure going past a partially open flapper. Like I said in the previous suggestion , get the Chevy dealer to make you a copy of the parts manual pictures showing all the parts (get the parts list that goes with it). The parts list will tell you what's what and that way you can find the flapper location that isn't working.
  • rsher0001rsher0001 Member Posts: 2
    I just ordered my second one of these
    1 "ACDelco 15-72182 A/C And Heater Vacuum Control Valve"
    Misc.; $53.27 ... dealer wanted $900 to install ... $95 for part... Amazon.com Price @$50.

    Its a bear to get at bascially behind dash near the ashtray area screwed to the AC duct work... There are two screws on the backside of the valve that hold it in place... I nipped the mounting tabs on first one I installed so I can more easily replace it .. good thing I did ... these units get sticky and cause wierd air flows ... expect scars... lots of sharp edges in side the dash
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Never go to a dealership to get service or repairs on a vehicle that is out of warranty. Dealerships have their hands full with warranty work on the new cars they sell and they discourage work on cars that are out of warranty. The dealership will give a car owner that has a car out of warranty a "courtesy bid" which will be far above and beyond the average independent auto repair shop labor cost. Today the dealerships make more money off warranty work than from new car sales.

    1998-2002 Chevrolet Blazer (full size) A/C - Heater Solenoid Valve
    AC Delco #15-72182
    GM- #16171742
    MSRP: $120.57
    Dealer Cost: $62.70
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Something else to watch for is the disintigration of the rubber vacuum lines running from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister and that area. They will croak after about 6-8 years and when they do, the AC blows out the floor.
  • cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    '98 Blazer LS
    4 door
    4WD
    130,000+ miles
    I do NOT have automatic temperature control.
    The A/C blows only hot air. The vents DO get warmer if I turn the temp dial to heat. I do not hear the compressor clutch engaging nor do I see/hear the accompanying load increase on the engine. I have checked the low side pressure and it actually reads high (in the red on the cheapo gauge that comes with the cheapo recharge kit).

    How do you check the compressor to see if it is bad or not?
    Or, is there something else that may be causing this?

    I replaced most of the A/C system a couple of years ago with the help of a mechanic friend. The compressor shelled and contaminated the system with bits of metal. We flushed, replaced parts and had the whole thing working great. About 3 months later I parked it... for about nine months. It was when I started driving it again that the A/C no longer worked.
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    First check the compressor is not frozen by seeing if you can turn the shaftthat engages the clutch. If you can't get leverage to do that then heres another idea. There is a wire that goes to the clutch. Disconnect that and supply 12 volts directly to the compressor clutch to see if it engages and the compressor will turn. Don't let it run very long! Just long enough to prove the compressor is turning.

    Assuming that it will turn then the problem lies elsewhere. The wire you disconnected is the signal to engage the clutch and the electricity isn't getting through. This is because there are a couple of safety sensors checking for pressures in range. The fact that the low side is out of range indicates the low side sensor is not allowing the signal through. The high side may have a sensor too. In any event these are safety devices to prevent the compressor frombuilding up too much pressure and exploding the pipes and connectors. This is what happens when air gets in the system. The compresor will keep compressing the air until something bursts. Normally the coolant will be compressed from a gas to a liquid and pressure will remain normal. But you probably have lots of air in the system. Coolant leaks out generally through the seals where the hoses connect to the compressor and dryer etc. They have little O rings and special seals which may have cracks or are installed incorrectly. I got some seals from the auto part store that looked right but wern't. this part is really tricky and could be your problem. Anyway you have to get all the air out of the system before you recharge. You can't just add more coolant. That won't work. Then when you get it running again there is a test that can detect leaks which you should do around any thing that has seals in it. Good Luck

    Doug
  • cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    Doug,

    How easily should the shaft turn? I tried to turn it and it did not budge. I actually scraped some metal filings off trying to get it to spin. Do I remove the belt to try this? Or is it safe to say that it is frozen up? I priced a new compressor and I must say I am not looking forward to replacing this thing.

    I have yet to try applying any voltage directly to it. I have to rig something up. Plus I need to wait until it stops raining.

    Thanks,

    Ken
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    Ken
    It's frozen. It should turn pretty easy. The clutch drive plate is on the front and easy to get to. It's disengaged from the drive pully. Normally the electricity pulls the drive plate and pulley toghether. You don't need to remove anything.

    As far as the compressor it ony two bolts on top holding it on. You can get them off in 2 minutes. Disconnect the hoses and take off the drive belt. You can drive it that way until the new parts arrive. The AC belt doesn't drive anything else I don't think. You can try again to turn the compressor but it sounds like its frozen.

    When you charge the system you need to put quite a bit of ester oil in the new compressor. You can buy at the local auto store.Without it it's like running an engine w/o oil. It will seize.

    You need to flush the drier and evaporator and condesser to get any metal filings out that may have come from the compressor when it siezed. Figure out which way the coolant flows in the system and then blow through the dryer, condenser and evap in the opposite direction. Use AC flush and clean that you can buy at the auto store too. I think I used a hose and funnel to get as much flush as I could and then an air compressor to blast it through. I don't know if this is the approved way but it worked.

    I bought a new compressor with a new clutch online for $160 - $200. I assembeled evertything and took it into a automeotive AC shop and had the system evacuated and filled with coolant for about $85. They can check to see if the pressure is right and the seals arn't leaking as part of the service.

    Doug
  • rjmacrjmac Member Posts: 1
    I can't take the sloshing noise under the dash any more. Before it really gets hot and musty smelling I would like to blow the line out with air (did this on a minivan years ago, worked great). PROBLEM I can't locate this line. I now have the wheel liner out and still can't see it! Any one got advice. Last fall the local garage had it on their lift and they couldn't find it either.
  • dfhltddfhltd Member Posts: 11
    I don't know if there even is a dripline but the sloshing doesn't have to do with that. If there is a drip line it has to be located under the evaporator which is bolted to the engine side of the firewall in the middle. I'm guessing there is a hole or something that lets condensation just drip out the bottom on the ground. The cover comes off so you could loook insdie and see if there is a hole in the bottom under the evaporator core. There may not even be a hole.

    The sloshing noise probably is the heater. I noticed that the heater core is pretty high and the hoses leading to it are longer than they need to be so they arch up. If there is air inn the system it will goe to the highest spot which is the heater core and hoses. Re route the hosesso they are lower than the heater. Make them shorter if necessary. Then find a way to bleed the air out of the system. Once there is no air in the system the noise will go away.
  • phillip64phillip64 Member Posts: 1
    Issue: I have no heat regardless of temperature control setting with the exception of when I set to full clockwise, and then gets hot as heck. AC works all too well and will freeze you out of vehicle. Again no adjustment with temperature control just cold as heck unless I turn temperature control fully clockwise, then heat takes over and it gets too hot in vehicle. Just a slight adjustment counterclockwise and all bets are off, no heat. Vehicle is equipped with auto climate control, just does not seem to work. Any and all advice welcomed. Thanks
  • johnwnyjohnwny Member Posts: 7
    My air and heater both work but in differant settings. Air only works on far right of dial and heater on only works on center settings. Air/heat only blows out dash at you and alittle at windshield no matter what the setting on the dial. All fan settings work fine. Is it just a bad dial? Any ideas on this? Thanks
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