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Hmmmm????
I have a '95 Saturn SL with 74,000 miles. I purchased it from the original owner about 3 weeks ago. When I got it, it ran very well.
In the last two days, I have noticed it jerks very lightly on occasion. Today, while driving, it turned off. It jerked a few times as I was driving. It felt like it was running out of gas. I checked the gauge and it read that I had a 1/4 tank of gas left. I assumed the gauge was not accurate. After letting it sit for about 25 minutes as I waited for the wife to bring me some gas, I poured the gas in and it started right up. As I drove to the gas station, it jerked a few times. I filled up the tank and when I tried starting it, it did not immediately start. I had to crank it a few times. After it started, it was fine except for the occasional jerk. About 1.5 hours later, I drive it about 1.5 miles and it turned off again. I let it sit for about 25 minutes and it started again. (I am trying to get home) I got as far a 5 miles and it turned off again. I waited another 20 minutes and it started and got me about 5-6 miles this time. Still 8 miles from home and nothing but farmland between me and home, I called the wife to help. I let it sit for about 25 minutes and it would not start and we ended up pushing it about 2 miles with out other vehicle and I tried it again. It started and got me 3 miles and cut off again.
I though it was the fuel pump. I didn't listen for it until at the very end. I did however hear it running. Upon arriving home, I was going to order a fuel pump and after thinking it over, I am not sure if it's bad. I decided to wait and check it again in the morning.
Does anyone know, if it's not the fuel pump, what else can it be?
Tanks in advance.
Jesse
Thanks for the info. As I was checking the net for more info on the BTSI switch, I came upon a page stating that the BTSI switch is original equipment on the Saturn SL1 and SL2 with auto transmission. Being that I own a 1995 SL with manual trans, it wouldn't apply to me.
I do have another question if anyone can answer it...
I tried reading the codes on the car by jumping the A-B terminals and reading the check engine light flashed. I got a code 12 which means "PCM self-diagnostic test is OK."
Would me buying a GM code reader provide any other info on my problem or will a code reader give the same info as i got by counting the number of lights flashed???
Jesse
Prior to day, I could not drive the car more them a few milesefore it cut off. I'd wait a half hour and it would run again for another few miles and then cut off again.. After changing the coils and computer earlier in the week, no change. I would allow it to run oin the driveway and it would cut off after about 15 minutes.
I ordered a CPS yesterday morning and picked it up today. With no jack or stands to lift the car to get underneath her, I Installed the CPS though the top without removing the starter. Took about 15 minutes. After installing the CPS, I backed her out of the garage into the driveway. (fumes) let it sit and 45 minutes later, it was still running. Took her for an hour long spin and never had a problem.
Glad to be back on two wheels again.
Jes
Car has started slowly (cranks for a few seconds before turning over) for several months ... not always, but regularly. Then, yesterday, nada.
Lights and everything work (but we tried jumping, just for fun, with, not surprisingly, no luck).
Checked the battery connections, and they seem fine. Fuses all seem fine (both under the hood and near the glove box).
We were able to push start the car.
When the key is turned to "ON," all of the display lights come on. They do not go off when it is turned to "Start." Car is currently in the garage, and with the garage lights off and the car headlights on, I do see a VERY small dimming when I turn to "Start." Also, if it hasn't been turned to "Start" in at least 15 seconds or so, when you first turn the key to "Start," there is a faint whirring noise. If you immediately try to start again, this noise does not happen.
Thoughts on why? I looked around the web trying to find a way to tell if it was the starter or ignition switch, and the lack of significant dimming of the lights seems to point to ignition switch, but there is some dimming. I tried to look for an easy well to tell if the ignition switch was working, but did not find one (could certainly be that I am looking in the wrong place).
I decided to take the starter in and have it tested (it was tough to remove for a realative novice with no good vehicle tools, but it was doable ... there is a great how to video on You Tube that I found in another post on one of the forums here).
They tested it, and it passed. Then the person told me that the test does not test the solenoid. Sigh. But I heppened to be speaking with the parts manager, and he agreed to let me bring it back if a new starter didn't solve the problem. So, I figured worth a shot. And it worked!
Not knowing your answer yet, it still sounds like a starter issue to me. Maybe you got a bad one?
Any ideas?
Back in october iI had problems starting the car. All lights would be on in the car, but when I cranked it, nothing. I know when starters start to die, they make a sad little noise.
I replaced the battery and it solved the problem for a bit.
On saturday (1/31/09), it died on me. This was after a short trip. I pop started the car and was fine (Yes, its a stick-real women drive sticks). I had to go to a party so after pop starting it i went to my party. Upon parking, turned it off and tried to start it again, nothing. So about five hours later, after the party i went to my car and it started. Strange.
I left the car to sit on Sunday and used my other car.
On Monday it started just well, same for Tuesday. Now this morning, I went to the bank, it started, then went to get gas, and it died. So i had some nice guys help me pop start it.
Now, all my lights turn on, when I have had alternator problems in the past, I had no interior lights and even the radio wouldn't turn on. When I turn the ignition to start, there is no noise.
I am in San Diego, and its been hot lately :shades: , so cold weather is not an issue.
Any ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUMGFnK29B8
Again, I'm a backyard mechanic, at best, so any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I'd rest a whole lot better if I were confident that when my daughter started her car, it wasn't a crap shoot to see if it would start or not! Thanks all.
got a lot of info for you
email me back
robertjcorley@gmail.com
Got more info. on this
email me at robertjcorley@gmail.com
I get power inside, just when I turn the key, no go. The starter won't even start. I've tried pumping the clutch in case my clutch sensor is going bad. No start. Its like when you start it without engaging the clutch, no noise nothing.
The no starting is random.
But if i drive home, turn the car off and then try to start it, no start. But it will start a few hours later.
Any ideas? I really don't want to get rid of this car.
thanking you in advance for your courtesy.
Thanks, Tom
Thanks,
tom
I tested my starter to make sure it wasnt the starter, checked all my fuses. Finally then I changed my ignition. The key wears out the ignition and creates a short. Did you ever notice that your key would get hot. So when it did get hot, it wouldn't start? That is what happened to me.
its a cheap part but a pain to replace.
I hope this helps!
Run a wire (15 amp capacity) from the "S" terminal on the soleniod up to the battery terminals (do not connect).
Run the car till fault appears ie starter does not turn. Put a meter from the wire to the ground battery terminal (black). (If you do not have a meter connect 12V bulb) Turn the ignition switch to start if the meter reads or the bulb lights power is getting to the soleniod. If this is happening (on my car it did not) then use the wire (with the ignition switch turned on) , holding it with pliers hold it on to battery positive terminal (make one good contact or it will spark quite well). If the starter motor does not turn have it checked, if engine starts, you have reduced the fault to, ignition key, ignition switch or fuse. Use meter with power off to check on resistance reading in thoes area's.
Mine the engine started and now I am chasing the fault in thoes curcuits, when I find it I will let you know.
So far, so good. My car has not abandoned me. It came out to about $245.00 through my wonderful mechanic. Saturn wanted close to $800.00 for the repairs. :shades:
Through Saturn there is a bulletin on this problem. What happens is that there is a problem with the solenoid in the ignition switch that get worn with time and use.
i have RKE and i lock the door, come back to the car and the RKE isnt wroking. The stereo has no power, no interior lights, no real power for extras. but the car tries to start. i can get it started but it stalls shortly after and runs with a bad shake. im gathering that the "no power" is affecting the fuel pump too. throughout the day i get this several times and i can tell when its going to start happening because i start getting shocks whenever i get outta the car. which gets stronger and more annoying throughout the day. if i push around on the fuse panel, i can usually get all the symptoms to go away and the car starts running like nothing ever happened. i have changed the battery, starter, disassembled the fuse panel and did not see any problems. my hubby and i have spent many hrs going trough wiring looking for any open wires and still the problem persist.
any ideas would greatly be appriciated!!
thx in advance
Dothedew
Then the idle was running high, especially when in drive and started having stalling problems. Reading through the forums there are many answers leading to the ECTS and dirty EGR valve.
So I purchased the sensor and connector from the dealership. Installed and soldered the connections, cleaned the egr valve which was dirty. I also, cleaned the throttle body while the car was running with valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. Car started and ran well. Filled the tank with 93 gas and a bottle of Chevron fuel system cleaner.
Car ran great for 2 days. Then we had a cold night (28 is cold for florida) I went to start the car in the morning and it barely turned over, did get it started with jumper cables. Put in a new battery, couldn't get it started. I checked for spark - none.
Again, reading the forums I picked up a Crankshaft Position Sensor and installed it.
Cleaned the battery cable connections at the block and fender, also the positive connection at the fuse panel on the fender. Change the oil and filter to 5w30, I was running 20w50. replaced the spark plugs with autolite plugs.
I removed the spark plugs and connected the plug wires to them and rested the tips on the exhaust manifold. Getting spark on all cylinders.
Looking down in the cylinders with a flash light I could see all the piston tops are wet and all the spark plug tips are wet.
There is a popping sound coming through the intake tube every 3 -4sec while cranking.
Someone recommended I switch the new autolite plugs for ngk plugs.
I did and no change.
There is less visible spark with the ngk compared to the autolite plugs.
When cranking the engine the starter seems to bind for a second then continue.
We removed all the plugs again ( they were wet) and cranked the engine, trying to dry out the cylinders. no change.
Removed the hose that runs from the air cleaner to the throttle body. no change
while someone turn the key I gave it blast of starting fluid in the throttle body.
It shot a flame back out at me. (I will not try that again)
Here is the latest scan info
P0107 MAP/BARO circuit low input
P0336 CKP A CKT range/perf
DTC that caused freeze frame P0336
Throttle Position 0.0%
Engine rpm 132 rpm
Load value 0.0%
Map Sensor 99 kpa
Coolant temp 46 f
Long term fuel trim 1 0.0%
short term fuel trim 3 50%
long term fuel trim 3 -38.3%
Please Help!!
Thank You
The sad part is that I really want to like this car but it is making it very difficult.
Any ideas - multifunction switch, ignition switch?
This is just what I did with my car as an example. It may be time to replace the ignition solenoid. I had problems starting my saturn and replaced the solenoid and (just because) put in a new starter, my car now starts! You might also want to check your crankcase position sensor, those go bad with use. Once you get these things fixed you will enjoy a wonderful car with great gas mileage and cheap on insurance.
THE ENGINE WILL CRANK AND TURN OVER GREAT , BUT AM NOT GETTING NO FIRE. I AM AT A LOSS, ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
dave