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Chrysler Sebring Coupe

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Comments

  • leroya1leroya1 Member Posts: 4
    http://mofv.com/mygig/
  • 02owner02owner Member Posts: 34
    I have noticed that the 2010 Sebring Limited has gone to a six-speed along with its 3.5 motor along with a much higher level of trim. Seems like Chrysler may be trying to reach back for some of the old LH market. My dealer certainly seems to have this opinion - says they are putting a lot more value back into the car.
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    The 3.5L Sebring was already a 6-speed. I have it in my 2007 Limited. I'm wondering what the higher trim level is. My 07 has leather seats, shift knob, brake handle and steering wheel.

    One of my favorite things about the whole car is the MyGIG with nav. That thing keeps me entertained for hours on a long trip. I modified it to be able to play a DVD while in motion. Passenger only, of course. ;-)
  • danwetherbeedanwetherbee Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2001 Sebring Sedan with the 2.7 engine. I am a home mechanic- only worked on my own cars but have never worked on a 2.7.

    I bought it from a small towing company which had picked it up as a "donation vehicle" and sold it instead of scrapping it.

    Here's the little history I have of the car from what they told me:

    They thought it had sat and not been driven for at least the previous six months.

    The engine was no good because it made a lot of clattering noise when it was started. They owned it for about four months and would start it occasionally to move it around in their yard.

    They told me the oil pressure light would come on whenever they started it.

    The on-site mechanics told me they suspected the cams but hadn't done any work on the engine because the owner felt he would have to replace the engine and didn't want to mess with it so he put it up for sale.

    They started it for me but I had them turn it off right away when they said the oil pressure light was on. I did not hear any rod knocking noise or any particular loud clattering, but then the radiator fan was making quite a bit of noise. The guy who started it said he heard it clattering.

    It has been delivered to me and I am not sure what to do or where to start so I am looking in forums for suggestions. Got any?

    BTW, I have been researching and have familiarized myself with the "sludge" problem found in the 2.7 L engine. I am wondering if I should start with the timing belt based on reports of the tension spring failing due to low oil pressure. Here's my problem; I have never had to replace a timing belt before so this would be my first time. I'm not sure how or where to begin so I need basic and clear directives.
  • luis88787luis88787 Member Posts: 2
    i did everything possible its my wifes and my car shes out of town comes in 2 days i need to use it to pick her up from the airport it turns and sounds like it wants to start but wont. It started for me 2 times but wont no more please help!!!!!
  • jonm30jonm30 Member Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem with the same car. I also bought mine from a rental establishment. Do you recall the process and pricing for the evac sensor? Thanks!
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    jonm30, the post you're replying to is a few years old and the member might not be here anymore to give you an answer. If you post your question in the Edmunds Answers box in the lower right-hand corner of this page, you might get an answer more quickly.

    ClaireS, Host
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  • mikeincamikeinca Member Posts: 5
    JonM30:

    I had taken it in for service under warranty because of the noise. They tried to tell me it was something else at first, "made an adjustment", but afterward the noise was still there. I took it back and had to go to management before I got a transmission specialist from the shop (dealer) to test drive it with me. We reproduced the sound and they subsequently figured it was an air/vacuum issue and isolated it to the evac sensor.

    You have to kind but firm in insisting they look at the air/vacuum portion of the system. Good luck.
  • 93buicklesabre93buicklesabre Member Posts: 11
    Well just wondering was the oil light on when it happened? Also does it turn over or do nothing at all?
  • danwetherbeedanwetherbee Member Posts: 2
    Almost 2 years later and finally I am getting back to this vehicle. I have started the vehicle a couple of times to move it very short (less than 30 feet) distances. It always started until this time. Won't fire even when I spray starting fluid in the intake. There is water in the oil and it makes a strange "grinding" sound when it is turning over. I tried to check the compression on the front 3 cylinders but it showed 0 for all 3. Perhaps the guage is bad. I haven't got around to checking it on a running vehicle. I pulled the oil pan and there was a plastic part about 3-4" long and about an inch wide laying in the bottom of the pan. There was red antifreeze in the coolant so I don't think the water is from it sitting out through the Colorado winters. I understand the water pump can go bad and leak water into the oil. Could the plastic piece have come from the water pump?
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    Hey Dan,
    If you see coolant in the oil be prepared for a major job.
    The water pump is internal to this engine (behind the timing cover) and it is a maintenance item due at 100K along with a timing chain.
    I have a 2.7l on a stand from a '02 Sebring I just replaced the crank in because of failed rod bearings. Yes, they just failed and not because of the lack of oil or coolant in the oil. I have some theories why but I intend to write a blog when the vehicle is back together. I paid $500 for this car because the body and interior was nearly flawless but the engine had a rod knocking. It is well worth fixing.
    If I was interested in a quick turnover to resell, I could have just micro polished the rod journals on the crank and replace the bearings. And it probably would have held up. But really I need to put the wife into something more economical without going into debt for another car. This will be a win-win.
    The most common failure in these is the water pump leaking. Because it is internal to the engine this means water in the oil, and if not discovered early, this means catastrophic engine failure will happen soon. Usually it is due to the timing chain tensioner failure because it operates on oil pressure. Low or no pressure due to water in the oil, slack tension (on a worn out chain), then the chain jumps; throws out the cam timing and then valve damage. This is an interference engine or non-freewheeling as the factory manual describes it.
    The sludge problem I 100% attribute to piss poor maintenance. There is a reality here that nobody wants to address. These small high performance engines are intolerant to poor maintenance and poor quality fuel.
    The sludge issue isn't only a problem with Chrysler engine but Toyota, VW and other have run into the same issues.
  • remann1remann1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Sebring with a 2.6lt engine. The car does not overheat, but starts leaking once it has started to cool off. It appears to be leaking from around the water pump, but I have been unable to verify that. Does this sound like the water pump or head gasket?
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