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Comments
First thing to do is talk to the service writer about a refund, and if that doesn't work, send a letter to the owner. Then you have some documentation to attach to your credit card or small claims dispute.
Your local consumer protection agency may be able to go to bat for you too.
Yes I did fix the problem and it was a simple coil problem! Thanks to all the help out here And as far as getting my money back it was a waste of time talking to the dealership and the BBB. I got no where with it? Any Ideas?
If you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running, it sounds like the throttle position sensor is bad. It is located on top of the engine on the intake next to the butterfly valve. I would recommend replacing that first. The part is about $45.00 at autozone and takes about 15 minutes to replace. You will need a torx driver to get the screws out. About a 20 or the next size larger.
There is another small unit mounted right behind it. That is the idle air control valve. It's about the same price. Takes about as long to replace. If you choose to replace that too, get a can of spray carb cleaner and spray it into the hole under it. This will clean out any oil or dirt that may have deposited there, preventing any continuation of your problem.
Step 1) When I turn my key to the "on" position the fuel & auto shutdown relays chatters and the Check Engine light does not come on (even temporarily). The fuel pump does not prime when I just turn the key on, however, when I crank the engine over and I get fuel pressure to the fuel rail (approx 40lbs).
Step 2) IF I PULL the fuel relay and turn the key "on" without cranking I get the Check Engine light for a few seconds and the fuel pump will not prime. If I crank the engine over without the fuel relay the engine starts but dies shortly after starting because the fuel rail no longer has pressure. Remember it had presssure in step 1.
Step 3) I just don't have a clue where to go..I have replace relays, etc.
step 1- turn key on; fuel pump fires up I get pressure everything seems fine at this point
step 2- try to start the jeep; with fuel relay in it just cranks- pull relay fires up runs for a second no fuel of course
step 3- with engine running I put fuel relay in it kills it out
Mine seems to be a short either on oxy sensor or a signal to the pcm from one of the various sensors i have made sure my fuel pump is good
what i am going to try is go back through testing my sensors but doing it at the pcm instead of at the sensor location
For some reason it seems like that fuel relay is causing the problem only once you try to start the vehicle has to haave something to do with a signal to the pcm during start mode
I have a spot that you can get all the factory info for your jeep (scribd) has diagrams for wiring also has papers on how the pcm works during different modes
So pretty much whatever one is clicking with the other out has a problem somewhere.
On my 93 once its running with fuel relay out it stops clicking its just a solid circuit.
So i guess i have 2 look for shorts coming off the fuel relay
the pcm clicks the injectors and ign coil off and on by controlling thier ground circuit
So..I am wondering if the rebuilt PCM is my real problem? Maybe not providing enough current to some of the sensors? Or maybe a broke wire I can't find?
Wish I knew, I'm already into this beast for a lot.
it sounds like we both have a short somewhere in the harness
I dont beleive it is the pcm even though there is alot that runs through it a short in one little wire will make it look like it could be the pcm
mine seems like the power feeds are alright but it seems like the pcm is not putting out enough ground to my relays which could very easily be a short in the wiring
This all started few backs when I had my exhaust manifold changed out. The mechanic did not re-connect my O2 sensor and my check engine light came on after I started driving around the next day. The JCG ran without it connected for awhile and then started giving me issues. I found the problem and reconnected the O2 and it seemed to work ok. THEN, I had my catalytic convertor swappped out because mine had a horrific rattle (been like this for a couple years) and I just got around to having it fixed. It wasn't long after I had the catalytic conver changed out that my JCG died. I wonder if the guys may have shorted out my O2 when they were welding? not sure..I did replace the O2 after my first round of problems but that didnt seem to change anything.
Just hope the current O2 is good. Is there a way to test these without being powered up?
Any how I just happen to see a melted wire going into my inj connector above my pcm started tracing that wire back to the pdc (fuseblock) and found a bare spot on the wire with burn marks right out of the pdc. I disconnected that wire from the pdc left fuel wire in and it works so I guess I have to replace this wire all the way to the oxy sensor.
It happens to be that the dealership had spliced a wire in right here and from the looks of it they ripped insulation off this wire at the same time creating a month and a half worth of problems. never again will i allow jeep dealerships to touch my jeeps.
"Any how I just happen to see a melted wire going into my inj connector " What is inj connector?
ok above the pcm in my 93 (95 should be the same) there is a wire connector or plug on the firewall my wire going to the oxy sensor was melted i had to pull the harness apart all the way to the fuse block the wire was melted all the way back with other wires
if yourjeep is doing the same as mine which is not starting till you pull the fuel relay and the fuel relay is causing the chatter and not the asd relay
then you have the same problem a short on a wire that feeds out of the relay either the ground wire dark blue and yellow stripe wire from pcm slot 51 pcm to ground side of electro magnetic coil in relay or the actual power feed to the fuel pump dark green with black stripe
I have not had any blown fuses and based on what you found I should see something similar (shorted) which I would supsect would cause a blown fuse somewhere. I'll keep looking in and around the harness for a short or broken wire.
yes when you pull the fuel pump relay and it starts fuel pump doesnt prime - you just took the power from your pump pulling the relay.
look over the schematics on the link i gave you it sounds like you have a short or melted wire too.
Even though a month ago i found a short on my ign coil trying to fix this problem im on now. the power wire to the coil was bare about 2 inches and bouncing off the frame. Im wondering if this had anything to do with my melted wire. I cant find a real bad short except for the bare spot the dealership obviously made and it only very rarely could actually ground out. so im wondering if a short could backfeed through the relays.
Any how no matter what you probably have a short going to your fuel pump somewhere. My readings on my meter showed contunity and voltage but there was still a problem there.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/4790640/93ZJ-Secc-8W-Wiring-Diagrams
http://www.scribd.com/doc/4790444/93ZJ-Secc-8A-Electrical-Systems
http://www.scribd.com/doc/4791314/93ZJ-Secc-25-Emission-Control-Systems
http://www.scribd.com/doc/4790750/93ZJ-Secc-14-Fuel-System
I'm confident that the short is not in the fuel pump wiring as it will run if I force the fuel realy closed manually. Then I can start the vehicle if I pull the fuel realy..so something is shutting the fuel relay off and I assume that voltage comes from the PCM based on a sensor input. I don't think there is a Inertia / rollover switch on these models so that should be counted out. I'll keep digging...If I find something I will come back and post.
Thanks
the short going to my oxy sensor probably the same as yours I couldnt find what could of caused it but I thought i had it running but at the time my fuel pump was not plugged in so when it died it was because i was out of gas
so when i plugged my fuel pump in by the gas tank my fuel relay started acting up again unplug it and my relay doesnt chatter so i am in the process of pulling my fuel pump out
i know that my fuel pump works but there is a problem in the fuel pump module you could have the same problem
it looks like something in my pump went wrong sent a surge back to my fusebox and instead of blowing the engine fuse it melted the wire going to the oxy sensor
but mine is still not running i pulled my fuel pump and thats it it got cold and started snowing so im trying to get enough room in my garage to keep trying
but good job im happy to hear its fixed
I had a 1998 JGC Laredo that I loved vary little problems, sold it and I have a 2001 JGC laredo V8 auto, that I just got,here's the problem, It starts great when cold but when it runs for a while and I shut it off I have to crank it longer then I did when it was cold sometimes longer then others, and it lopes (studders) when I stop at red lights sometimes. I changed the plugs, no distribitor or rotor. I get from reading in the forums it sounds like it might be the Crankshaft Position Sensor? How do I locate it an is a pain to do ? And what about the Oxygen Sensor? Thanks
I found the crankshaft position sensor location on my 2001 JGCLV8, right behind the starter, had to jack up the front end and pull the starter, bingo, there it was. changed it, seems a little better on the idle side.dosent seem to be as rough, time will tell. Maybe it dosen't seem to crank so much when I go to start it when it's hot !!!!!!! Will post later when and if it is at all better If any other ideas on what I should try per original post please advise.
Thanks for the replys
Throttle sensor
Cam Shaft position sensor
Rotor
Distributor cap
All wires
Coil.
The dealers have said that I should be able to R&R this sensor without removing any other parts. I can find, what I believe is an oil sensor next to the distributor. Then, behind this, close to the firewall, there is a cable, leading to a connector, which looks like the replacement part I have, but I am not positive it is the correct connector. (The replacement part has some specific markings on the outside, which are not on the part on the car. Is this important?)
I am not able to see, nor feel the othe end of this wire to confirm that this is the correct sensor. If you have any photos or clear instructions on how to get to this part, I would greatly appreciate your help.
I have a friend who had same problem and in the chrysler service shop told him the PCM had to be replaced.
Have any of you experienced same problem and solved it without replacing PCM?
On other hand i've checked pcm sales on line andt they require the VIN number.
What is the VIN number and where do i find it?