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Ford Expedition Climate Control Problems

2

Comments

  • groundhog4groundhog4 Member Posts: 1
    would like to get a copy of the video if you don't mind. thanks
  • jerome29jerome29 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Expedition XLT with a 4.6 and my air blows on every mode but the heat doesnt get hot at all. One hose gets hot, but the other one stays cold. I've changed the thermostat, flushed the entire cooling system but still no heat. Any suggestions ??
  • tiny108tiny108 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1999 Exp. 5.4L .. i have replace all the heating parts in this SUV , the only thing i haven't replaced is the heater hoses ... the blender door is working perfectly i have taken the dash totally apart and watched it work .. the problem is the rear heat gets to 73 degrees , front heat only gets to 69 degrees ... the dealership tells me after $500+ spent to the dealer they have no idea whats going in ... some kind of pro service department from ford ... (they all have a PHD in stupidity if you ask me) any other ideas anyone ???
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    I'd suggest checking the vacuum lines that route around the battery area (at least they do on a '03, I don't recall where they were on my '99). They are prone to breaking down and develop small cracks that are barely detectable, but have a huge impact on how the system performs.
  • tiny108tiny108 Member Posts: 3
    I and the ford dealer both have already done that .. I have traced them down more than 3 times now , no leaks .. The dealer claims theres no reason for this to be happening considering the temp. differences between the front and rear differing so much .. Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated , I have exhausted all i or and the dealership can guess , assume , or read in the books .. The service tech told me today just shoot it and buy another one .. :mad: :confuse:
  • work6930work6930 Member Posts: 1
    does your heater hoses under the hood get so hot that you can't hold them? If not and your heater core is clean and not stopped up you might have and intake gasket blowed, I run in to this problem on mine. There also could be a crack in the intake right where the heater hose hooks on the manifold.
  • tiny108tiny108 Member Posts: 3
    yes engine is at correct running temp. well the shops and service department at dealership all say they are at a loss ...
  • sneaks89sneaks89 Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem on my 2000 Expedition- only 'slightly warm' heat.
    I had the heater core replaced 1 year ago. Just recently, the system was flushed and the thermostat was replaced. Engine temp looks OK, per gauge. Problem persists. Switching from hot to cold does change the air temp so I "think" the blend door is working.

    Any new developments or ideas?
  • danger2othersdanger2others Member Posts: 1
    I have 99' and replaced the heater core 1yr ago and just dropped a new engine in the last week. I have heat in the mid seats and the far back(rear) but only cold coming out of the console does anydoby know why this would happen? Also I was told that there are 2 heater cores one for the front ane one for the back. Is this true?
  • vikeme1965vikeme1965 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 98 XLT 4.6L
    The other problem I'm having is that once the temp gets into operating range, it will all of the sudden shoot to hot and the engine will lose power. If you are at cruising speeds of +50, it will click back down after about 20 seconds, but if you are city driving, it won't click off until shut the truck down and wait 10 minutes.

    I just had the freeze plug changed out and replaced the overflow reservoir - all to no help.
  • 99bauer99bauer Member Posts: 2
    Ok after hearing alot of people talk about it..here is the fix! It is the blend door..from ford they are made of plastic and over time they break. There is a guy that has a fix for it..infact my husband fixed mine with his kit and now the blend door will outlast the life of the rig. If you do a search for this online you will find his repair along with instructions and video. I will tell you that his kit is way cheaper and it is easier than taking it to the dealership.

    sorry i dont have his link to give to you but all I did was a search for it and he came up.

    Ok I found it..it is www.heatertreater.net
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Could be as simple (annoying) as a vacuum leak or as big as a broken blend door.
  • ihatefords2ihatefords2 Member Posts: 2
    When the heat wnt out it went form back to front back blew cold air then after awhile the front did the same thang iv had it flushed 3 times and did get some heat then after a few hours of the car not running no heat all lines front and back are really hot iv changed water pump, thermostat, pressure cap, and even flushed it again still nothing so i opend up the rear heater core and that was hot then i learned that it really cools down when u put the fan on it without air blowing on it i could barley touch it put fan on full speed and within seconds i could grab the core and no heat at all so i replaced the core and still the same thing. Well im stuck i dont know what to do all doors work at the rear unit what could the problem be. I have been told that if the front core is plugged that should not effect the flow to the back is that true or could the front core be the problem what else could it be please help im tired of frezzing
  • camden23camden23 Member Posts: 1
    where is the fire wall located at?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    That would be the piece of metal that separates the passenger cabin from the engine bay.
  • ihatefords2ihatefords2 Member Posts: 2
    DOES ANYONE EVERE AWNSER THESE ?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    People do respond when they have answers.

    Your problem could be due to a number of things. Have you considered replacing the heater core?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • denis421denis421 Member Posts: 3
    This might be lengthy, but it is detailed, "HELP" I have a 98 Expedition 4.6L Winsor motor (few left the shop with this engine) Here goes. Temp reads normal (1/3 on gauge) as I drive 50+ mph, turn off onto an exit and the temp gauge slowly (2-3mins) goes almost to cold then immediately taps out at HOT. (It doesn't rise gradually, just takes off) Turn the ignition key off, wait 10-30 seconds, turn on and reading normal again. She idles normally at 850 with a normal temp, rev to 1500 for a few minutes and it tops out at HOT again. No heat through front vents, rear was ok, now no heat through rear either. Replaced thermostat (195 oem), flushed engine with an after market reverse fluch kit, changed water pump, changed temp sensors, change degause tank (resivoir), same overrheating issues. NOTE, the top radiator hose does not get warm. Ran the car without the termostat and the hose gets warm, so I'm guessing the replaced water pump is working w/o the termostat. Without the thermostat, at idle and all speeds, the needle is steady right at the top of the "C" (cold) and doesn't vary. (of course not heat) Tried a 180 degree thermostat to no avail. Changed thermostat 3x in a week (all newly purchased), thinking I may have gotten a bad one. Upper hose still does not get warm. Changed oil and dropped tranny pan to change filter and fluid. No water in oil or tranny fluid, same the other way around, antifreeze is clean. Funny thing, I got heat a few times for a few minutes when the temp gauge tops out at HOT. Heard it may be an airpocket, so I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing to bleed the air. Even filled with upper hose disconned at radiator till I saw antifreeze run out. I'm running the truck right now w/o the thermostat. I know this is not a good idea with everything electronic running the variables fuel, timing, etc. The only thing I haven't changed was the fan clutch. I believe this shouldn't have anything to do with this, however I need to keep busy or I'll go insane. Any help on this one would be appreciated. BTW I do have a fix for the EGR error code that comes up on these trucks too. That'll be posted in a few days
  • denis421denis421 Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to say when I mentiioned about not having any cross contamination between fluids, there is also NO steam or water comming throught he exhaust, thus I don't believe it is a head gasket. Thanks again for any replies, even it it's a "Dunno" Thanks
  • greg858greg858 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours? Mine has the same symptoms, and I was going down the same path to fix it (you said you'd already replaced the heater core). I tore it down last night, intent on replacing the heater core, but after I verified that the blend door was working, I started the car and let it warm up. The heater core got hot to the touch, which made me rethink -- it seems like it's flowing coolant and getting hot. I then reassembled everything, and I still get airflow that's only a few degrees warmer than if I were running the cold, outside air through it.... Looking for answers. Anyone?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Sounds to me like it is the temp control knob - it is either spinning on it's shaft or the resistor behind it is no good.
  • greg858greg858 Member Posts: 3
    But if it were the temp control knob, the blend door wouldn't be going from max open to max close, would it? The blend door is working perfectly (I cut a small observation hole in the plenum and can watch it work.)
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Good point. While you had this all disassembled and felt the core getting hot, did you try to run the heat? Do you have rear heat and does it work?
  • greg858greg858 Member Posts: 3
    I do have rear heat, and it's not working either. I haven't found the heater core for the rear yet, although playing around down by the firewall yesterday, I think I located the hoses going to it. I checked the front heater core, and both input and output hoses were hot, so it seems to be getting flow. When I switch the heater on, I get warm air for a few seconds, and then it seems like the airflow quickly cools the heater core, and the air temp then drops. Odd. I'm planning on calling Ford service today to see if I can get any troubleshooting help, but I'm close to stumped. Any thoughts? (Thanks.)
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Have you flushed the heater core? I'd guess that it is plugged based on the fact that it is getting warm but as soon as the air flow goes over it it cannot keep up. Even a trickle will allow the hoses to get warm. I think the front and rear share a heater core which would support this idea.
  • ksorenksoren Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 Expedition XLT; rear heat/AC are located in rear driver side, side panel. Should see vents along side panel. FYI

    I have very similar problem:

    1998 Ford Expedition 4WD, 4.6L Engine EFI-SOHC, V-8
    Heater blows hot air for a short time then air turns cooler.
    Has front and rear climate control, same problem front and rear
    Engine does not seem to get to operating temp range. Temp guage gets about 1/4 the way, I have a non-contact infrared thermometer and constantly check the engine temp near the coolant temp sensor and it barely gets over 170 degrees.
    No signs of heater core leaks. With engine warm hose to heater core 135-140 degrees and hose out about 120-125 degrees.
    Have removed center console; can view Blend door actuator motor shaft move (seems like 180 degrees) when moving temp control from full cold to full warm
    Normal coolant system flushed
    Heater cores not flushed independently
    New coolant temp sending unit
    3-New thermostats

    A/C works great front and rear
  • leach1159leach1159 Member Posts: 2
    blend door is located in front of the center console. remove console itis on the right three mounting screws hold it in has one electrical connector
  • leach1159leach1159 Member Posts: 2
    back flush heater cores with garden hose
  • 99expe99expe Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 eddie bauer 5.4l v8 and no heat
    I have replaced the thermostat and then my radiator thinking it may be clogged. My blend door actuator is working fine despite what my mechanic told me. I have no heat in either front or back. I'm replacing the water pump next. I have no evidence that either heater core is bad. I have two children that are freezing (using blankets to stay warm). HELP PLEASE
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    How do you know your blend door is working fine? Have you considered flushing the heater core?
  • 99expe99expe Member Posts: 3
    because we took out the dash and checked it to see if it was working,we have not flushed the heater cores because it is very unlikely that both heater cores would fail at the same exact time.
  • ksorenksoren Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 XLT with no-heat front and rear also. I was thinking heater core as well until I realized there is a seperate heater core for the AUX/rear heat and thought no way would they both be clogged BUT:

    My heater hoses come out from behind the engine and then go to a tee (line through firewall to front core and another line going to the rear.) I'm thinking both heater cores could be clogged because they share the lines. I plan to flush the front core & rear and the hose and hope it helps before I start replacing expensive parts.

    I will let you know if it works. Open to your or anyones thoughts. I also plan to try and find a way to check the water pump efficiency without having to remove it because it's a PAIN!

    Good luck!
  • 99expe99expe Member Posts: 3
    I will let you know as well. Good Luck to you too, we are hoping to pull apart mine tomorrow morning.
  • kira98expokira98expo Member Posts: 7
    I have the same truck , same problem i did the flush and it didn't work at all then the repair shop told me my heater core is bad and so is my blender door motor.... they change my temp gauge and water pump .... nothing worked ... my truck is so cold i brought an portable heater ...... :mad:
  • ksorenksoren Member Posts: 5
    What type of portable heater did you buy?
  • kira98expokira98expo Member Posts: 7
    actually i brought two one at target for ten buck that's for the home but i run an extension cord from my house to my truck to warm the inside , then at advance auto they have the portable that plugs into the lighter socket ... for 23 dollars but u need at least three just to have warm heat........
  • ksorenksoren Member Posts: 5
    OK

    I had looked into the DC type heaters. I figured with there output it wouldn't be worth it because we usually only need heat early in the morning here in Las Vegas, NV. It gets pretty cold in the early morning so I have an small shop blower hearter I run an extension cord from garage to the truck which really helps.

    Thanks for the info.

    Kevin
  • kira98expokira98expo Member Posts: 7
    I hope this works for u ..... let me knw ;)
  • gsusmangsusman Member Posts: 1
    My AC is blowing on high and I can't turn it off or down??
  • bart501bart501 Member Posts: 4
    I'm having the same problem as everyone else on my 98 expedition; No heat front or back. Blend door is working fine. Swapped the thermostat but I noticed my heater hoses aren't getting hot or even warm. I was planning to flush the heater core but can't figure out how to access the hoses. Any suggestions? Photos or video would be helpful.
    Thanks.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    Usually the flush kits T into the lines at the fire wall. Last time I saw one it was a Prestone product, but I'm sure others make them.
  • bart501bart501 Member Posts: 4
    I have one of those but I only want to flush the heater core(s), not the entire engine. Also it's a tight fit trying to get one of the t-fittings on one of the hoses coming out of the wall.
  • bart501bart501 Member Posts: 4
    OK, I figured out how to flush both heater cores. Neither was stopped up and even after the flush I'm not getting any heat, front or rear. I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    How did you flush the cores? Just because you got outflow doesn't mean that the cores aren't restricted. Are the hoses going into and out of the firewall hot? I'd start to think the warter pump isn't pushing as hard as it should.
  • bart501bart501 Member Posts: 4
    The hoses have never gotten hot. That's why I figured one of the cores was blocked. To flush only the cores I clamped off the hoses that come to and from the manifold. The I cut one of the hoses going to the rear core and installed garden hose male to one side and a female to the other. Next I hooked up the water hose (using a backflow device) to one side and another hose to the other side and ran the end into a 5 gal. bucket. I turned on the hose and the water ran through the system pretty easily.

    I was wondering if it might be the water pump. But wouldn't my engine run hot? If anything it runs pretty cold.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    If your inbound hose to the core never gets hot, and your engine temp is good you must have a blockage before the cores or possibly the system is air bound. Why are you opposed to flushing the motor?
  • kira98expokira98expo Member Posts: 7
    The heater core is no good and ur water pump is gone too.... no mater how many times u flush it, it won't work , i had my heater core done then my hoses weren't getting hot but i had hot heat and for 2min it goes cold, i found out it was my water pump .... so please don't keep wasting ur time flushing it. sorry :cry:
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    One could reason you got taken to the cleaners. Had the heater core done and still had no heat? Then the water pump? Nice that the shop you went to chose to go in order of most expensive first. If the poster doesn't have hot lines going into the core, then it isn't the core. Like I said, water pump or air bound.
  • kira98expokira98expo Member Posts: 7
    edited December 2010
    I didn't get taking to the cleaners ,cause I didn't have heat until i did my heater core then once that was done i had heat but now I'm good... That why I said I was doing the same thing flush after flush and still no heat.... \\
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Member Posts: 339
    If the core wasn't leaking, and it was flushed with no improvement, the first place I would have checked before ripping ther dash out would have been the water pump. Your mechanic went the $1500 route before the $300 route, but got you for $1800 in the end. It was probably the water pump all along. I'd say that's the cleaners.
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