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I'd go to BIMRS.org and look for a good independent shop.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
One more thing, BMW charges less than $400 retail for a new starter, solenoid, and mounting screws. How do they account fot a $1100 labor charge?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'm guessing:
Check fluids, belts, hoses
Inspect filters
Inspect brakes
Inspect exhaust
Inspect suspension
Inspect, inspect, inspect.... :sick:
It never ceases to amaze me just how much damage an unscrupulous/inept dealer can do to a brand's reputation.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
As an example... Recently, my wife's 05 Mini convertible (optioned-out, bought new) went into the shop for a power steering fluid leak. The prognosis was a leaking secondary (rack to reservoir-low pressure) hose.
Turns out, it was both hoses, to and from the reservoir. The dealer covered the second hose AND labor at no additional cost to me.
Then again, I've developed a good working relationship with the dealer over the years, and I have had the dealer perform oil changes at every 5K miles instead of the suggested interval determined by the car's onboard computer while the car was under warranty. Even then, on the Mini, an oil/filter change was only $75-80.
Once out of warranty, I do the routine service myself. It helps getting me to routinely inspect the car mechanics on a regular basis...
Her Mini has over 70K miles now, and has been every bit as reliable as any American or Japanese built car we have ever owned...and in several cases, far MORE reliable...
From a battery perspective, any decent Auto Zone, NAPA, Oreilly Auto Parts, etc. can do a load-test on a battery, so it would seem a BMW dealer should be able to do as much...
Seems to me they are throwing darts at a dart board trying to figure out your problem, and right now, your wallet is the dart board.
Having said that, it IS remotely possible your replacement battery is faulty, but I would bet slim odds on that possibility. If I knew more specifics, I might have a different opinion... Then again, maybe not...
I guess it depends upon your "pain" threshold, but at some point you may have to decide if this dealership is going to "make the cut", so to speak.
Good luck!
At least they gave you something else to drive...
If you don't mind me asking, what dealer is causing all this needless misery?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Maybe it's just me, but it doesn't seem like much of a comparison between a 5 year old car with 44K miles (purchased used) and two other brand spanking new 2013 models.
I went both ways.
"Our 03 Avalon is more enjoyable around town." My wife says they both drive very nice, but are very different cars. I agree. BTW, the Avalon is 10 years old, never goes to the dealer, has not had one problem and NO rattles. If Japan can do it, why can't Europe after all these years? Same for USA. I just can't see these dealers ripping off the loyal customer. Example: BMW documents list window tint as an $800 option. I don't care how much money one has, why would you let someone screw you like that? A fellow had a seat clunk in his Z3. Mine too. The dealer wanted to replace the seat rails for $1600 when a kit is available aftermarket for like $20. I made my own. Cost zero. Same for the glove box fix. Then I find my European sports car was designed in the USA by a Japanese guy. GEEZ. Not priced like a japanese car though. Don't believe? Check Wikipedia. "The Z3 was designed by Joji Nagashima of the BMW design team into 1993"
Life's too short, so buy and drive what works best for you.
The valet switch is in the glove compartment, and locking the glove box should also deactivate the remote unlocking of the trunk. If not, the problem is either part #5 or part #10 in this diagram.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Assuming that comment was not meant to be a joke, I'm wondering why you would ever look at anything other than a Toyota.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I always believed that if you buy the same thing, you don't learn anything. That said, I never argue with success. And I did go back to Europe 3 times for 3 brands. Must be a glutton for punishment as I now own 2 BMW's, but when they start costing me to own, they're history. Guess I'm a slow learner. That being said, my Japanese cars just keep performing without hassle. 100k miles with no problems kinda says why they have been so successful. I admit, I have had a Camry and the Avalon but other than that, very diversified including a very sharp white AMC Matador Brougham coupe with custom wheels. I have owned 45 cars, 9 motorcycles, from a 750 Kawasaki 3 cyl, 2 stroke to a Ducati V Twin - hows that for diversity, but no Harleys. Nice if you like trips to the shop, although newer may be better. They just don't trip my trigger. My Honda VTX 1800 puts them on the trailer and doesn't vibrate. Also, ten motorcycles, and Five tractors, so I don't think I'm stuck on the Avalon or one brand of anything. The crank turns, and what may be best today may not be tomorrow, so why be blindly brand loyal? I love to try different things. Keeps life interesting. We are both driving enthusiasts. If they aren't fun, I make em that way or get something else. Something hassle free does tend to stick around for awhile though. What really sticks in my craw though, is when a brand touts itself to be the best and then has ongoing problems as stated above. What the hell are they thinking?
"Depending on the location and extent, most
cosmetic shortcomings should be repaired prior to offering the vehicle for sale under the CPO program"
The question is, what are "cosmetic shortcomings?" the guidelines do specify that dents, or chips down to primer or metal are not acceptable and should be repaired, but it says nothing about things like orange peel or mis-matched colors.
This morning the car barely started in the wintry conditions, around 30 degrees F so far but ice and snow and high winds as the blizzard is approaching, and then after some 1500 to 2000 RPM idle time with the aid of my foot, waiting until after the car warmed up a bit before I did that, the car started a lot quicker in the next two attempts. I ended with a 5 minute stint at 1750 RPMs as I am hoping to keep enough of a battery charge to rectify the problem without jumping or towing. I already took the flashlight to the trunk but couldn't tell if the indicator was light yellow or pale green - it definitely wasn't black.
I am thinking how I can steer around the Stealer and buy and properly install a near top of the line Duralast Platinum AGM which goes for about $155 at Autozone. Then I will just need a shop referral to get it installed, programmed and registered correctly. Right?
I wish I could just install it myself, but even Autozone says no way - Do Not Install Yourself...bummer.
I do take far too many very short drives so this may have depleted my battery. There are no changes in digital readouts or low battery warnings upon starting - just very slow cranks half the time, no clicks and worse in the cold. At 40F or above, she always kicks over more easily. Any suggestions re: battery preferred without the BMW Service ripoff will be appreciated. Aside from battery, could the coils be involved in the slow cranks?
TGGary
I have never bought a top of the line battery. $155? Yeow. For that they should install free. Why shouldn't you do it yourself?
If the CCA's etc. are adequate or better than OEM, any battery should be fine but check the warranty. I usually buy mine at SAMS or Fleet Farm.
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Then after about 20 minutes, I jumped into the 330i and idled at 2000RPM for about 4 to 5 minutes. Tomorrow the wife and will go out to the trunk to read the indicator again as I am a bit color blind - it's either light green or yellow (I know it's not black)...if yellow I will replace ASAP. If it's green I will take the car on a long highway trip to see if the starting action snaps back into strong --
Will update. Tonight it's hitting 18F around here so if it starts tomorrow I know I will get to the Stealer or Autozone before a jump or tow.
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https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&q=battery+48/H6#q=battery+48/H6&hl=en&tbs- =p_ord:p&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=nCUXUe3vFKTR2QXSvIHAAQ&ved=0CC0Quw0oAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_g- c.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42080656,d.b2I&fp=d3ac23762ef5e591&biw=1014&bih=548
More things I found.
I believe that Johnson Controls is phasing out the old group 48 battery and replacing it with this design, designated as an H6 battery. At least the Wal-Mart battery catalog says that the group 48 battery is being phased out. No stock on the old-style group 48 battery at either Wal-Mart here, only the newer H6 battery.
That design has shown up at Wal-Mart. It says "Distributed by Johnson Controls" on it. I've seen that design before; it looks like a Varta battery (Varta is owned by Johnson Controls).
Varta is a major OEM for the German car companies. Almost every Audi I've ever seen had one installed at the factory.
TGGary
Results: Battery Is Good., Low on charge, Charge Battery. Check for causes of low charge: Charging System/Alternator, Alternator Belt, Cables and Connections.
I do take too many very short trips and haven't driven it much on the highway for months, so that could be the issue.
So, after the highway drive to AAP, car started right up and I drove it across the street to get it charged. Ofcourse, a slow trickle is the best bet so we discussed it and agreed a charger purchase would be best. Called BMW of Bayside - want 145 bucks for a 2 hour charge (not even a slow charge) and 145 bucks to get the radio code which is gone somehow (bought it at an Infiniti Dealer with 3rd Party 100K/5 YR Warranty). At Bayside BMW they charge and charge like thieves and are slipshod besides as I have written up on other sites.
Looking for the right charger for the 2006 BMW 330i - the C-Tek 3300 may be it? If so, can I hook it up in the engine Bay? Is there an alligator clamp version to make it simple?- as I don't want to disconnect the battery due to the Radio Code problem...another Thread says you can press "M" on Radio for 10 seconds and it brings up the Serial Number, then call different BMW's until you get a real human being on the phone for your code...
TGGary
BTW, you can go to Harbor Freight and get a trickle charger for about 5 bucks when on sale, which is frequently. $145 for a charge? Almost criminal. I'll bet they even said that with a straight face too. That would be the first and last time I would grace their doorway.
Can anyone pull up the code for me?
TGGary
I am extremely fortunate to have a dealer that charges a fair price for high quality work. My service advisor has an E36 M3 HPDE car and also shares my love of Triumph Motorcycles. And I still get a BMW loaner and a nice waiting area.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I will never in my life purchase another BMW.
If you had taken your car to a knowledgeable BMW independent shop or to a good dealer your car would likely have been fixed the first time. I'm a DIY BMW enthusiast and three sentences in I suspected it was the key(I've also corrected more than a few problems on my friend's BMWs that were caused by so called "technicians" who lack opposable thumbs).
As for your $1,200 quote- I sure hope they kiss you and send you flowers the next morning. You can go to any BMW dealer and order a key for your car. You just need proof of ownership and the VIN. A remote master key will run about $230-$300; the last time I checked, it will have to cut and shipped from BMW NA in NJ.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive