BMW 3-Series Starting Problems

roadburner · August 2012

This is a dealer problem, not a car problem. You need to find a shop that will perform a systematic diagnosis and not merely throw parts at the problem. As for the dealer reimbursing you, I'd note that the battery may have been going bad, although the original batteries in my BMWs have always lasted for at least 7-8 years. As far as the starter goes, I'd be willing to bet the farm that it was not bad. I've owned 10 BMWs over the past thirty years and I have never-EVER had to replace a starter- and I've owned several past 130,000 miles.
I'd go to BIMRS.org and look for a good independent shop.

toppercat · August 2012

Thank you roadburner-I am going to speak with the dealership tomorrow:)

roadburner · August 2012

Ask them to explain how they determined that the battery and starter were bad. They will either give you a deer in the headlights stare or els say something like, "It's all very complicated and technical, we hooked it up to our diagnostic computer and it told us what was wrong."- which is another way for an incompetent shop to say "We made our best guess and threw the likely parts at it.
One more thing, BMW charges less than $400 retail for a new starter, solenoid, and mounting screws. How do they account fot a $1100 labor charge?

fedlawman · August 2012

"How do they account for a $1100 labor charge?"

I'm guessing:

Check fluids, belts, hoses
Inspect filters
Inspect brakes
Inspect exhaust
Inspect suspension
Inspect, inspect, inspect.... :sick:

busiris · August 2012

+1!!!

It never ceases to amaze me just how much damage an unscrupulous/inept dealer can do to a brand's reputation.

roadburner · August 2012

I am SO blessed to have a dealer that is more than competent and charges a fair price. I recently had my 1995 ti in for a brake fluid flush and my service adviser told me "We'll keep an eye on the serpentine belts; you might want to consider replacing them next spring." He never tries to push unneeded work.

busiris · August 2012

Like you, I have a pretty decent BMW/Mini dealer.

As an example... Recently, my wife's 05 Mini convertible (optioned-out, bought new) went into the shop for a power steering fluid leak. The prognosis was a leaking secondary (rack to reservoir-low pressure) hose.

Turns out, it was both hoses, to and from the reservoir. The dealer covered the second hose AND labor at no additional cost to me.

Then again, I've developed a good working relationship with the dealer over the years, and I have had the dealer perform oil changes at every 5K miles instead of the suggested interval determined by the car's onboard computer while the car was under warranty. Even then, on the Mini, an oil/filter change was only $75-80.

Once out of warranty, I do the routine service myself. It helps getting me to routinely inspect the car mechanics on a regular basis...

Her Mini has over 70K miles now, and has been every bit as reliable as any American or Japanese built car we have ever owned...and in several cases, far MORE reliable...

toppercat · August 2012

So went back to the dealership today-jumped started the car-Thank God it started!!!-spoke with the same service person-and asked about how could this be that since we needed a new starter then the original battery was probably good right-Oh NO-see the battery was bad and then the starter was bad also and now what is probably making the car not start is the new battery they just put in is bad-see the starter can sometimes make the battery go bad. (REALLY???) Lord please help me and give me patience:) Has anyone is the world ever had a BMW that started out with one battery that was bad so another put in and then a starter went bad and then after that the 4 week old battery goes bad- or are we just that lucky??? Oh and yes when we got the car back the key thing amajiger(fob)will start the car but won't unlock or lock the car. So that is the nightmare story today from our 3rd trip to the dealership. I came home with a loaner-and boy is it a pretty one-a wagon-Yuck-no offense to anyone who drives one-just not for me-but is starts and that right now is the main thing. So will keep you informed on what they come back with this time. Curious to see how many times we will be at the dealership. Maybe third times a charm:) I know you all think we are crazy to keep going back and not switching-but I they have $1500.00 of our money and darn it they should have to make it right with us-don't ya think!!! P.S. This dealership is 1hr away-we have to take off work and not to mention gas prices right now-holy moley:( Wish us luck:)

busiris · August 2012

First of all, you have my sympathy here. Clearly, this dealer doesn't seem to have entered the 20th century yet, much less the 21st.

From a battery perspective, any decent Auto Zone, NAPA, Oreilly Auto Parts, etc. can do a load-test on a battery, so it would seem a BMW dealer should be able to do as much...

Seems to me they are throwing darts at a dart board trying to figure out your problem, and right now, your wallet is the dart board.

Having said that, it IS remotely possible your replacement battery is faulty, but I would bet slim odds on that possibility. If I knew more specifics, I might have a different opinion... Then again, maybe not...

I guess it depends upon your "pain" threshold, but at some point you may have to decide if this dealership is going to "make the cut", so to speak.

Good luck!

At least they gave you something else to drive...

roadburner · August 2012

Your so-called service adviser is an incompetent fool at best and a bald-faced liar at worst. It's almost impossible for a starter to kill a battery. As I suggested earlier, Ask them to explain how they determined that the battery and starter were bad. Did the battery fail a load test? Were the starter and solenoid BOTH bad? If so, how did they diagnose that? They are idiots.
If you don't mind me asking, what dealer is causing all this needless misery?

dholifield1 · September 2012

You must use the same BMW dealership I have used. Bought a Certified 2006 325i from them in 8/2009, had all kinds of problems with the certification (car had been wrecked - should not have been certified in the first place but I won't go into that here). Hard to start issues began in December 2010. Dealer said battery was bad & charged a total of $430.48 to replace the battery (keep in mind the pre-owned warranty did not expire until 4/13/2012). New battery did not solve the problem - still slow to start, especially after the car got warmed-up. Brought in again May 1, 2012 (2 weeks after warranty expired) with same issue - slow to start - and they said the battery was bad (the same new one they put in just 16 months earlier - go figure). Put in a new battery and 2 new tires for total cost of $1,152.62. Brought in again 9/12/2012 (4 months later) again slow to start, this time said starter was bad, put in a new starter at a cost of $1,375.43. Starts like a champ now. Now keep in mind the warranty had expired just 5 months earlier. Then voila - on September 19, 2012 (the following week) had to put in a new water pump at a cost of $1,123.03, plus the towing charge of $150 :mad: . Do you see a pattern here? I've owned 4 BMW's in the past and I will not buy another one again, ever. :mad: This one will get traded for a newer car in just a couple of weeks. God help the poor SOB who buys it. :lemon:

dukedog1 · September 2012

My son has a 2002 325i BMW in Australia and has a starting problem, which no one can figure out or fix. If the car sits for an extended time  usually overnight  it is very hard to start. It turns over but will usually take about 10 minutes of fiddling, before it will start and run. After it finally starts up, it seems to run just fine. The problem seems worse when the air temp is cold. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is happening????

toppercat · December 2012

Hey gang, it's me again-the one with all the battery, starter and then module sunroof issues. Well I'm back with another issue with my 2006 325i bmw. Now I can't get the trunk open. The starting problem was final resolved with a new sunroof module-after 4 months. That seems so far to do the trick, but like I said now it's the trunk. Key fob opens doors but not trunk. Only the key itself opens the trunk and that isn't easy:( Any suggestions???? Please comfort me and don't tell me an actuator. We have checked the valet switch in the trunk...not it. I have done some research online and the word actuator keeps coming up???? This sounds expensive and difficult to install ourselves. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If it wasn't for this forum-I would still probably be dealing with the starting issue:) Merry Christmas

55396 · December 2012

We just bought an 08 528' w/44k. Nice car, but I wonder if I want to own one of these money pits. After a Saab and an Audi years ago, I said no more European cars, but here I am. Quite a few rattles and a light clunkiness from the front suspension on the sharper bumps around town. Anyone have similar? I read where people have replaced front A arm or bushings around 100k. But at 44k? Shouldn't be. Our 03 Avalon is more enjoyable around town. Kinda like my Ducati vs Honda 750 and VTX 1800. Superior on the road, but not so much around town. Maybe need to get used to it. It was very satisfying driving around looking at houses the other day, but I prefer the Avalon for running errands. Much more relaxed. I'm guessing we may go back to a 2013 Avalon. Like the Cad ATS also. The only Cad I like. They are on the right track and I hope the follow when upgrading other models. I did get 34 MPG from Phoenix to Tucson. Fairly flat but an increase in altitude from 1100' to 2500 @ 80 MPH. What are the rest of you getting?

busiris · December 2012

I'm guessing we may go back to a 2013 Avalon. Like the Cad ATS also.

Maybe it's just me, but it doesn't seem like much of a comparison between a 5 year old car with 44K miles (purchased used) and two other brand spanking new 2013 models.

55396 · December 2012

"comparison between a 5 year old car with 44K miles (purchased used) and two other brand spanking new 2013 models."

I went both ways.

"Our 03 Avalon is more enjoyable around town." My wife says they both drive very nice, but are very different cars. I agree. BTW, the Avalon is 10 years old, never goes to the dealer, has not had one problem and NO rattles. If Japan can do it, why can't Europe after all these years? Same for USA. I just can't see these dealers ripping off the loyal customer. Example: BMW documents list window tint as an $800 option. I don't care how much money one has, why would you let someone screw you like that? A fellow had a seat clunk in his Z3. Mine too. The dealer wanted to replace the seat rails for $1600 when a kit is available aftermarket for like $20. I made my own. Cost zero. Same for the glove box fix. Then I find my European sports car was designed in the USA by a Japanese guy. GEEZ. Not priced like a japanese car though. Don't believe? Check Wikipedia. "The Z3 was designed by Joji Nagashima of the BMW design team into 1993"

busiris · December 2012

Certainly sounds as if the Avalon is your choice of car.

Life's too short, so buy and drive what works best for you.

roadburner · December 2012

I have done some research online and the word actuator keeps coming up???? This sounds expensive and difficult to install ourselves. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The valet switch is in the glove compartment, and locking the glove box should also deactivate the remote unlocking of the trunk. If not, the problem is either part #5 or part #10 in this diagram.

roadburner · December 2012

Our 03 Avalon is more enjoyable around town.

Assuming that comment was not meant to be a joke, I'm wondering why you would ever look at anything other than a Toyota.

toppercat · December 2012

Oh thank you so much-haven't tried your suggestion for unlocking the glove box...will do though. Keep your fingers crossed. Will let you know how this goes!!!!!!!!!!! If this does not work-do you know how to tell which one we need #5 or #10 and is this something we can do ourselves-husband handy but not overly with cars. House yes, cars not so much:)

roadburner · December 2012

My guess is #5. If it is anything like my old E39 5 Series, you pry off the trunk liner and then it simply unbolts/unplugs. When my wife gets home I'll check her car(2009 328i).

fido2 · January 2013

Sounds like you are an Avalon guy.

toppercat · January 2013

Thank you-we live in Ohio and WOW it's cold outside-so my husband has not tried anything except the glove box and unfortunately that didn't work:( Will try your suggestion and thank you again:)

55396 · January 2013

"I'm wondering why you would ever look at anything other than a Toyota."

I always believed that if you buy the same thing, you don't learn anything. That said, I never argue with success. And I did go back to Europe 3 times for 3 brands. Must be a glutton for punishment as I now own 2 BMW's, but when they start costing me to own, they're history. Guess I'm a slow learner. That being said, my Japanese cars just keep performing without hassle. 100k miles with no problems kinda says why they have been so successful. I admit, I have had a Camry and the Avalon but other than that, very diversified including a very sharp white AMC Matador Brougham coupe with custom wheels. I have owned 45 cars, 9 motorcycles, from a 750 Kawasaki 3 cyl, 2 stroke to a Ducati V Twin - hows that for diversity, but no Harleys. Nice if you like trips to the shop, although newer may be better. They just don't trip my trigger. My Honda VTX 1800 puts them on the trailer and doesn't vibrate. Also, ten motorcycles, and Five tractors, so I don't think I'm stuck on the Avalon or one brand of anything. The crank turns, and what may be best today may not be tomorrow, so why be blindly brand loyal? I love to try different things. Keeps life interesting. We are both driving enthusiasts. If they aren't fun, I make em that way or get something else. Something hassle free does tend to stick around for awhile though. What really sticks in my craw though, is when a brand touts itself to be the best and then has ongoing problems as stated above. What the hell are they thinking?

55396 · January 2013

My 08 Certified 528i has had the entire drivers side and hood repainted, and not well done either. It was certified @ 7k miles. The older gal who owned it acted surprised when I asked and said it had not been. I assumed she wasn't telling the truth, as BMW would NEVER do such a thing and then certify it. Now I'm not so sure. Would this be acceptable to BMW as a car to certify? I spose the car is still OK, still................... If so and not stated, I would feel deceived.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2013

There's nothing in the guidelines that prohibits a car that has been repainted from being certified; however, the guidelines presume that the repaint is of an acceptable standard. Here's what it says:

"Depending on the location and extent, most
cosmetic shortcomings should be repaired prior to offering the vehicle for sale under the CPO program"

The question is, what are "cosmetic shortcomings?" the guidelines do specify that dents, or chips down to primer or metal are not acceptable and should be repaired, but it says nothing about things like orange peel or mis-matched colors.

tggary · February 2013

I recently had a bad misfire on my 2006 330i Sedan one cold morning, a coil going for the second time in three months. The first time in 9/12 they replaced ignition coil 2 and two weeks ago all six were replaced, an oil gasket leak fixed and some bushings done too -- all under third party Warranty but still paid 562 smackers on my own (100 deductible). Since the service my car slow cranks a lot and I did get very poor gas mileage for a week or so afterward. Car has 49,060 on her, and first coil went down at 47.4K.

This morning the car barely started in the wintry conditions, around 30 degrees F so far but ice and snow and high winds as the blizzard is approaching, and then after some 1500 to 2000 RPM idle time with the aid of my foot, waiting until after the car warmed up a bit before I did that, the car started a lot quicker in the next two attempts. I ended with a 5 minute stint at 1750 RPMs as I am hoping to keep enough of a battery charge to rectify the problem without jumping or towing. I already took the flashlight to the trunk but couldn't tell if the indicator was light yellow or pale green - it definitely wasn't black.

I am thinking how I can steer around the Stealer and buy and properly install a near top of the line Duralast Platinum AGM which goes for about $155 at Autozone. Then I will just need a shop referral to get it installed, programmed and registered correctly. Right?

I wish I could just install it myself, but even Autozone says no way - Do Not Install Yourself...bummer.

I do take far too many very short drives so this may have depleted my battery. There are no changes in digital readouts or low battery warnings upon starting - just very slow cranks half the time, no clicks and worse in the cold. At 40F or above, she always kicks over more easily. Any suggestions re: battery preferred without the BMW Service ripoff will be appreciated. Aside from battery, could the coils be involved in the slow cranks?

TGGary

55396 · February 2013

The coil's function is to just zap the spark plug. I don't see what that would have to do with cranking. That may just be a low battery, especially since it improved after running/charging. I would take it on a longer drive to insure a good charge, or throw a charger on it before buying something you don't need. If it has the problem a day or so after, you probably have your answer.

I have never bought a top of the line battery. $155? Yeow. For that they should install free. Why shouldn't you do it yourself?

If the CCA's etc. are adequate or better than OEM, any battery should be fine but check the warranty. I usually buy mine at SAMS or Fleet Farm.

tggary · February 2013

55396 - Good advice - I'll take it and also take that long drive. Autozone says only a BMW tooled shop can set the battery up to the computer etc.. just as the Stealer says...otherwise I would do it myself. The reason why I want a high cold amp battery for 155 bucks is that it will be stronger than the BMW stock one and will start the car easier in freezing temps, here in New York, Connecticut and when we go to Canada in the winter.

kyfdx · February 2013

$155 is about the going rate for a BMW battery. Just had mine replaced a few months ago.

tggary · February 2013

Update 55936: We had the blizzard last night and the 330i was covered in snow and ice, and in the high 20s outside - it was parked outside for about 18 hours after I high idled it to recharge, and the car started up after 2 slow cranks and then 3 faster ones...as I had to dig out and de-ice/snow the Bimmer and the old Benz outside, I kept both cars on and turned the low heater setting on the BMW to dislodge the ice while shoveling the street and sidewalk.

Then after about 20 minutes, I jumped into the 330i and idled at 2000RPM for about 4 to 5 minutes. Tomorrow the wife and will go out to the trunk to read the indicator again as I am a bit color blind - it's either light green or yellow (I know it's not black)...if yellow I will replace ASAP. If it's green I will take the car on a long highway trip to see if the starting action snaps back into strong --
Will update. Tonight it's hitting 18F around here so if it starts tomorrow I know I will get to the Stealer or Autozone before a jump or tow.

55396 · February 2013

Here is a You Tube video on replacing a battery in a 2001 E46 but gives you the idea. $120.

link title</a

tggary · February 2013

155 bucks plus core if I go to Autozone, 248 plus 120 labor plus taxes if Stealer...

55396 · February 2013

$90 to $142 here but I didn't check details.

https://www.google.com/search?tbm=shop&q=battery+48/H6#q=battery+48/H6&hl=en&tbs- =p_ord:p&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=nCUXUe3vFKTR2QXSvIHAAQ&ved=0CC0Quw0oAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_g- c.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42080656,d.b2I&fp=d3ac23762ef5e591&biw=1014&bih=548

More things I found.

I believe that Johnson Controls is phasing out the old group 48 battery and replacing it with this design, designated as an H6 battery. At least the Wal-Mart battery catalog says that the group 48 battery is being phased out. No stock on the old-style group 48 battery at either Wal-Mart here, only the newer H6 battery.

That design has shown up at Wal-Mart. It says "Distributed by Johnson Controls" on it. I've seen that design before; it looks like a Varta battery (Varta is owned by Johnson Controls).

Varta is a major OEM for the German car companies. Almost every Audi I've ever seen had one installed at the factory.

fedlawman · February 2013

I went to sears last summer and bought their gel battery for my 318i. It's made by Odyssey and has excellent reviews as well. I think I paid about $150 and I installed it in the parking lot.

tggary · February 2013

Last night it went to 18F and at 2 P.M. @ 30F the car started up with only one slow crank and two fast ones - first my wife helped me with seeing the color code in the indicator eye, and she says it's dark black (I must have been focusing on the clear around it... So should that mean it will be okay for now as long as I keep it charged up, or should I be replacing - Advanced Auto Parts has a Gold high cold amp battery for 135 for the 2006 330i Sedan, and a guy across the street from them has a scanning tool for install he says - quoted 20 bucks. Drive with black or replace now for hundreds better than Stealer?

TGGary

tggary · February 2013

Today when weather cleared here in NYC area I went to Advanced Auto parts - they tested the Battery and the readings while car off: Voltage: 12.49, CCA Measurement: 497 CCA, Battery Rated: 640 CCA

Results: Battery Is Good., Low on charge, Charge Battery. Check for causes of low charge: Charging System/Alternator, Alternator Belt, Cables and Connections.

I do take too many very short trips and haven't driven it much on the highway for months, so that could be the issue.

So, after the highway drive to AAP, car started right up and I drove it across the street to get it charged. Ofcourse, a slow trickle is the best bet so we discussed it and agreed a charger purchase would be best. Called BMW of Bayside - want 145 bucks for a 2 hour charge (not even a slow charge) and 145 bucks to get the radio code which is gone somehow (bought it at an Infiniti Dealer with 3rd Party 100K/5 YR Warranty). At Bayside BMW they charge and charge like thieves and are slipshod besides as I have written up on other sites.

Looking for the right charger for the 2006 BMW 330i - the C-Tek 3300 may be it? If so, can I hook it up in the engine Bay? Is there an alligator clamp version to make it simple?- as I don't want to disconnect the battery due to the Radio Code problem...another Thread says you can press "M" on Radio for 10 seconds and it brings up the Serial Number, then call different BMW's until you get a real human being on the phone for your code...
TGGary

55396 · February 2013

Now you're doing it right. I wouldn't go to that rip off dealer for anything. Unfortunately, that's probably the play book for most. You do not need a dealer for most things, . They operate on the knowledge that people who buy these cars have the money and a lack of lack of understanding which allows them to easily be ripped off. On the other hand, they have a fancy, possibly lower volume dealership with lots of overhead and people to wipe your [non-permissible content removed], so to speak, and someone has to pay for that. You know they are going to keep their profit margin no matter what.

BTW, you can go to Harbor Freight and get a trickle charger for about 5 bucks when on sale, which is frequently. $145 for a charge? Almost criminal. I'll bet they even said that with a straight face too. That would be the first and last time I would grace their doorway.

tggary · February 2013

55936, I just got the Serial Number from the Radio by pressing "M" for 10 seconds like thread said - now I have to warm up my sales pitch to get a BMW tech to give me the code - I'll bet there's plenty of decent ones out there who can help who don't just care about overcharging customers...Serial Number is: AL900150476142

Can anyone pull up the code for me?

TGGary

roadburner · March 2013

Unfortunately, that's probably the play book for most. You do not need a dealer for most things, . They operate on the knowledge that people who buy these cars have the money and a lack of lack of understanding which allows them to easily be ripped off. On the other hand, they have a fancy, possibly lower volume dealership with lots of overhead and people to wipe your [non-permissible content removed], so to speak, and someone has to pay for that. You know they are going to keep their profit margin no matter what.

I am extremely fortunate to have a dealer that charges a fair price for high quality work. My service advisor has an E36 M3 HPDE car and also shares my love of Triumph Motorcycles. And I still get a BMW loaner and a nice waiting area.

55396 · March 2013

Ah, Triumph. I had a Bonneville that I raced at the drag strip. Now have a Ducati and a Honda VTX 1800. I've had multi's but guess I like the twins.

ccoleman328i · May 2014

Having similar if not the same starting issues problems at first then no starting period with my 2000 328i I checked the starters ignition terminal and there's no power when the key is turned to the starting position but has 12v battery power and cranks the engine when touching terminal together also no fuel at the injectors and no spark when I crank the starter I'm guessing ignition switch but would like to know if that sounds likely and how do i know if the switch is bad I checked the #3 wire input on the harness at the switch (the blue and black wire) and didn't get any power with a test light but I don't know the diagram for the switches circuitry please help also read something about the key and anti-theft system could i have more info

ccoleman328i · May 2014

Also BMW makes a great car in my opinion they're just costly to fix i suggest learning how to or don't buy luxury cars lol my 3 series has over 250,000 mi and besides this most recent problem I've had little issues. Not trying to be inconsiderate but they are somewhat above average when it comes to the level of difficulty fixing these cars and requires a lot of specialized tools in any case German cars are usually pricey to fix at a dealer

lovestheroad · January 2015

I'm having this same similar issue as everyone else. It's so frustrating because this is my only vehicle (2000 328CI). I've had this problem since I got a new battery 2 months ago, Nov 2014! My brother and I got our batteries together in Sept 2013 and he had warrantied his out because it needed to be replaced just two weeks before my car wouldn't start. So I did the same and warrantied mine out as well. Got battery changed and next day, car wouldn't start. Tried to jump it and tighten terminals but nothing. Got it towed to my mechanics and they said I had the wrong size battery in my car. They jumped me and I went back to where I got my battery and they said it was the same one they took out. Weird. After being stranded and car not starting once again, I took it to a different mechanic and they replaced my cam and crank sensors. My car was running again! Within the same day of getting my car back from the shop, it wouldn't start on me once again. I had someone jump me and unfortunately that got me to an Autozone. I got battery post shims, but the terminals didn't fit around them so that didn't work. Leaving there, my car didn't start on the first time, but it did on the second time and when it did, I went to another mechanic. They end up putting screws down in my battery terminals to keep it together/connected. I was driving fine with no cranking issues for a day and once again, my car wouldn't start and I was stranded. This couldn't be realistic!!! I got it towed to the same shop and they said it could be the kill switch on my alarm which is aftermarket. So I had the company that installed my alarm come out and uninstall my alarm and my car still wouldn't start! UNBELIEVABLE. I had it towed to yet another shop because this shop was just not doing it... So today, is when I found out that all this has to do with my anti theft system and that I will need a new key cut for my car. That is the only key I have. A BMW technician is going to have to come out to the shop my car is at or have it taken to the nearest BMW Dealership to have this new key cut. My guy at the shop said this could cost $1200.
I will never in my life purchase another BMW.

roadburner · January 2015

I can't see why you blame the BMW for all of your misfortune. What did you expect? You took the car to a series of incompetent hacks who had not the slightest clue how to troubleshoot an E46 no-start issue.

If you had taken your car to a knowledgeable BMW independent shop or to a good dealer your car would likely have been fixed the first time. I'm a DIY BMW enthusiast and three sentences in I suspected it was the key(I've also corrected more than a few problems on my friend's BMWs that were caused by so called "technicians" who lack opposable thumbs).

As for your $1,200 quote- I sure hope they kiss you and send you flowers the next morning. You can go to any BMW dealer and order a key for your car. You just need proof of ownership and the VIN. A remote master key will run about $230-$300; the last time I checked, it will have to cut and shipped from BMW NA in NJ.

inky88 · July 2015

I have a 2001 325i ..when I turn the key I hear a loud spinning noise sounds like my flywheel is just spinning ..all the lights come on ..I think the starter bolt is not tight enough .i can see a lil gap in between the starter ..what do yall think ?

BMW 3-Series Starting Problems

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles