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Taurus/Sable Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • warwagon1warwagon1 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever find your electrical problem? I have same problem with my 99 wagon
  • jmn1jmn1 Member Posts: 26
    Try replacing the Cruise Control Switch. I know a few years ago Ford had recurring problems with the switches across the model lines. I had a 2001 Taurus and the only way to deactivate the Cruise was to hit the brake.
  • sis2giasis2gia Member Posts: 2
    I had a 98 Taurus several years ago and had problems I thought were electrical (acted like a ghost in the car). Radio would come off and on, wipers, windows ... A co worker had the same problem and they put his car through the ringers (he spent mega bucks trying to find the problem). It was the "Neutral Switch". When I took mine to the mechanic I told him thats what I wanted replaced. He thought I was a "dumb broad" but replaced it anyway.
    Lo and behold the car worked perfectly after that.
  • sis2giasis2gia Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. First, when in reverse, the car was hard to steer, then I noticed when in reverse the windows would not work. Now, after driving the car a couple of miles, the power steering isn't working in "drive" and the windows and wipers will not work unless it is in "neutral" or "park". Is there an inexpensive fix? :confuse:
  • russmysterrussmyster Member Posts: 1
    Any luck? Our 2003 was doing this and is now dead. Please share what you got sorted out.
  • pointerboydpointerboyd Member Posts: 2
    Got rid of my taurus and bought a honda. No more problems.
  • toddsultoddsul Member Posts: 1
    Same exact problem with my 1999 sable. Please help. Any ideas out there?
  • jayduboujaydubou Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    how can i tell which relay is the fan motor high speed relay?
  • del19del19 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, now. Did you finally fix it? Where is the cruise control switch located? TIA
  • meekomeeko Member Posts: 4
    Sorry my Dad hasn't been unable to try anything yet he was in a lot of pain and awaiting surgery. He will hopefully be recovered enough by early next month to try this tip that I found on the internet on a possible fix.

    http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/141117- -cruise-control-repair.html

    Here is a link on how to perform a diagnostic that will hopefully help you find out what the problem is.

    http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/2002-99-taurus-cruise-- control-not-working.html

    Meeko
  • carellcarell Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2011
    After this vehicle sat for 6 months the left rear power window will not work from either the master control or the switch on the door itself. All the other windows are working fine from the master control and on the remaining doors. The electric door lock on the same door works. The window electric motor is not engaging. I presume the problem is a bad switch on the drivers door control or the switch located on the rear door,or an open wire. I need some advice where to start trouble shooting this problem. I do not have the proper tools to remove door panels and any hint as to limit destruction to the door clips would be really appreciated.
  • pdenson17pdenson17 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I have an '02 Sable with over 136,000 miles on it. It shuts off completely while I'm driving almost always when I'm decelerating to turn, or coming to a stop. Nothing will work on vehicle (Even the Hazard lights will not work. No cranking or choking sounds JUST NOTHING. I've have taken my car to 2 auto repair shops and they cannot duplicate the problem. My battery has been checked and it is in excellent working order. She needs a tune up, but I was told by the 2 mechanics who looked at my car that a tune up would not help solve my problem. Any HELPFUL AND CONSTRUCTIVE suggestions?
  • robergroberg Member Posts: 2
    Was the short in the steering column, I'm having the same issues with my 2003 Tauras.
  • prazb2jcprazb2jc Member Posts: 3
    Mr. Russmyster - you have the most intelligent answer on this board!

    We were always a Ford Family - owned 4 at one point. All had various "major malfunctions", with the exception of the Taurus which was totally defective. I don't think there is any part that we did NOT replace. My son was almost killed in that piece of junk. He was driving and a tie rod broke off and sliced through the tire, of course he lost control, but by God's grace, we still have him.

    Yes, I'm in the midst of purchasing a Honda and will NEVER, EVER purchase a Ford product again!

    FINAL NOTE: I've had the same mechanic for the past 30 years. He's one very honest, reliable and highly skilled man. He doesn't comment on vehicle manufacturers. However, I asked him how he really felt about Fords. He replied, "I just love 'em". I said, "really, then why aren't you driving one?" He said, "Hey, I only love 'em because Ford keeps my business booming. If it weren't for Ford's Frequent Failure to Function, I'd have to find a new line of work". He then pointed to the parking lot where 10 vehicles sat for repairs; 7 of them Fords!
  • carellcarell Member Posts: 7
    Hello Posters,

    I got lazy a week ago and ignored my low fuel indicator. As I finally pulled into the pumps, my 1998 Ford Taurus stumbled and missfired. The tank took over 13.5 gallons, therefore only 2.5 gallons were remaining on the bottom of the tank. The moment, I restarted the 3.0 liter engine the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. The manual says the light should go out after a number of cold starts, this has not happened. I disconnected the negative battery wire for about 10 minutes, the light disappeared, for a short while, then returned. If anyone has any suggestions how to resolve the light issue, would be much appreciated. I should add, that after the fuel was added, the car runs as smooth as it did before I pulled my "lazy" stunt.
  • dbindiandbindian Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Ford Taurus with 155K miles. Mine does the same thing. It will also do it right after starting and turning the wheel whether in drive or reverse.
  • prazb2jcprazb2jc Member Posts: 3
    I posted above regarding the problems with my Ford Taurus. For all those with electrical problems, the real culprit is a combination of a faulty safety system malfunctioning in the steering column.
    1) Check your keys, there is only (1) that works properly when inserted into the starter slot as ONLY THIS KEY is programmed to work with your safety system. There is a short or program defect whereby the safety system fails causing ALL of the problems listed in this forum. If we unlock and open our front passenger door BEFORE getting into the driver's seat, the vehicle will not start. This is why mechanics everywhere cannot find the problem source.
    2) We explained to a number of Ford dealers the problems we're having and asked for help. The reply is totally rehearsed by each dealer, "We've NEVER heard of that happening before".
    3) In order to find the exact problem, you must bring the vehicle to a Ford Dealer, use the diagnostic tester ($100), where it will be be monitored to find defects.

    Let's wake up and smell the coffee - Ford's safety system is totally faulty in all of our vehicles. I have no idea what the costs would be to fix them. Shame on Ford for their denial of any problems. We're the ones stuck paying for THEIR errors!
  • jwwbuilderjwwbuilder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with 125K miles. Everything works fine then all of all sudden the car is dead and will not start. No lights, nothing except for theft light blinking. Remote won't work either. I have researched this problem and really haven't found the answer. I have unconnected the battery and reconnected. This does not help. The only thing that works sometimes if I jump the car it will start. This doesn't happen all the time, just at random times so I am scared to turn the car off unless I am at work or at home. Any suggestions or advice would greatly be appreciated.
  • robergroberg Member Posts: 2
    I have the same car with 150K miles with may of the same symptoms from time to time. I have a power drivers seat and noticed the the wiring harness with three different connectors were hanging loose under the seat. I removed the seat and re-attached them to the bottom of the seat. The connectors each have a plastic threaded plug that fits certain holes. So far so good, no more
    problems.
  • marlenmarlen Member Posts: 1
    The problem to this persons issue is obviously outdated but this might help someone else with the same battery drain problem. I have a 1993 Ford Taurus SHO and started having problems with my New battery going dead over night. I accidentally found the problem when I reached under the passenger side seat. The power box for the electric seat was hot to touch (overheating) there was a small clicking sound I heard once I was close to the box. It kept running throughout the night and by morning the battery was dead. I unplugged the wires on the box and the problem was solved, no more battery drain. I took it in for repair but when I picked it up I noticed the wires were still unplugged so the mechanic plugged it in. Apparently they did not fix the problem but pretended that they did so be careful who you go to.
  • kandacedollkandacedoll Member Posts: 1
    this is dustin i have a 2001 ford taurus with the same problem fuse #16 i was wondering what you did to fix it
  • flaminsableflaminsable Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Mercury Sable GS. In the past week I had the alternator and battery replaced after the car sat so I could get a new transmission. Two weeks ago my "check charging system indicator"came on. The car died. I was told it was the alternator. Last week I had a brand new alternator and a brand new battery put in along with new belts. The car ran completely fine. Then this afternoon, I went out to go somewhere and when I went to start the car it acted like it wanted to start then shut off. I had no power and had a beeping sound. Then after five minutes I went to start it and no power, no lights, no clicking, no nothing. Does anyone have a clue on what this may be? Could it be the starter, fuses, sylenoid (sp), ignition switch, electrical relay, or something else? I am completely baffled by what it could be. :sick:
  • prazb2jcprazb2jc Member Posts: 3
    I had posted prior about the same problems with my 2000 Ford Taurus. We also replaced just about everything in hopes of finding and fixing the culprit; nothing helped. Ford is well aware of these failure issues, but will NOT issue a recall. Most of these "undetermined" difficulties are tied to your On-board Diagnostic (OBD) System. Unfortunately, you must take your vehicle to a licensed Ford dealer to utilize their diagnostic scanner which finds the corrupt "code" pinpointing the area/part of malfunction. This is where the rip-off comes in. What costs a bundle is the diagnostic monitoring itself. I was charged over $200 for JUST the monitoring as the first attempt failed in its diagnosis, however, after waiting a few days, the second scan DID find the problem. It was the multifunction relay which kept shorting out that needed to be replaced. The cost of the relay itself (located in the steering column) was minimal. Ford has you hook, line, and money sinker as you'll either go broke replacing parts, or have to file bankruptcy after multiple visits to the dealer. I'm sorry the answer is grim, but this may help others with "weird" problems before they have to play a guessing game of "What's Wrong With My Ford Now"? - played daily by volumes of Ford vehicle owners across the country! :mad:
  • flaminsableflaminsable Member Posts: 3
    Is the OBD something that can be replaced? Should I still have the starter, ignition switch, and sylenoid replaced to be on the safe side? I can say after this experience I will never ever own a Ford product again. I will stick with GM products.
  • bbowers1955bbowers1955 Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Sable sedan was running fine the other day. When I came out of Walmart, I was able start it and back out of the parking space only 3 or 4 feet before it died. Then it cranked but wouldn't start. Each time I tried to start it, it sort of sputtered as though gas was getting to it for a half-second then wasn't for a half-second, back and forth. It was almost like it wanted to backfire.

    Anyway, I called my wife (she knows more about cars than me) and she had to drive 30 miles to come get me. Of course, when she arrived it started just fine and dandy.

    While I was waiting for her to arrive, I asked the dude in the Walmart auto service area if it could be the fuel pump going bad. He said that my description sounded like it was something electrical. Then I remembered that for the last 5 days or so, the dome light was staying on for a long time--both when I went for a drive and when I parked it at home...it stayed on.

    My Question: Is there some way that a mechanic can test the electrical system to see if the problem was electrical based? If not, then what can I do?

    Thanks. :surprise:
  • mike_the_kmike_the_k Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I've started to have the same problems on my 1996 Taurus GL - Dome lights staying on, (at first) and now components shuting off when I accelerate - Radio dies, idiot lights flash on, engine dies for a half a second. this is not good. THis all started happening in the last few months.
    ALSO - The windshield wiper control stalk sometimes fails to work (again intermitantly) Some central relay or switch componant has got to be intermitantly failling.

    DO ALL THESE THINGS RUN THROUGH THE STEERING COLUMN? - IS THE MULTI-FUNTION SWITCH CENTRAL TO THE PROBLEM?

    The MF-switch is about $100 (or less) but putting it in requires pulling the steering wheel - (there's a youtube video showing how).

    So the dealer could want a few hundred $'s for the job.

    MK
  • kylleelkinskylleelkins Member Posts: 1
    Ok I have a 2003 Taurus that i have replaced the batter, starter, relays, and the Starter Relay and it still wont start not even a click that would make it be the starter.

    When this all started I was driving on the going about 45 and then the car just died, i thought it might be the battery, or starter so i tried jumping it off, nothing so i had it towed to my house, next day replaced the starter, and battery and still nothing not even a click or anything.

    When i turn the key to try to start the car, all the lights come on, but nothing else. Any Ideas?
  • carl323carl323 Member Posts: 2
    try replacing chip key
  • nicklebeenicklebee Member Posts: 4
    replace the alternator wire
  • flaminsableflaminsable Member Posts: 3
    After the nightmare I had with my 2005 Mercury Sable with electrical problems and starting, I replaced every single thing on my car. From the Engine, all wiring, to the computer system. It cost me about $5100.00 to do everything and it is cheaper than a new car. I was fortunate to find a local mechanic that cut me a really good deal on labor for everything. I took it to a local Ford dealership and was told that all of the repairs would have been avoided if I got the computer replaced but told my car is practically new.
  • scambscamb Member Posts: 1
    sounds like your getting a ground off ur fuse panel specially if its a dohc
  • 2001sable2001sable Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Sable (84,000 miles) is randomly sounding the horn without the key in the ignition. The Anti-Theft alarm will sound randomly and then turn off.. It could go for a few hours and then start blowing again. I'm assuming it's one of the door sensors, the hood sensor or the trunk sensor. I have the Mercury Factory Service manuals, but my question is... Is there a simple way to check to find which sensor might be the problem,,, or is there a way to disable the Anti-Theft System? I don't necessarily need to use it and would be ok with permanently disabling it rather than getting into a ton of work to fix it...
    Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.
  • theflushtheflush Member Posts: 100
    2007 Taurus with 100K miles has been losing electrical power while I am driving. The first time only the Theft light came on and it felt like the engine shut down or transmission was in neutral, but it came back in about a second and never completely shut down. Lately all the dashboard lights come on and then all go off and the engine loses power. Sometimes the electrial power and engine power come back on without the engine needing to be restarted. Other times the electrical power is out long enough that the engine shuts down and it must be restarted. The electrical power has always come back on by itself. It has so far restarted easily and it idles fine and usually accelerates fine. The problem happens more frequently when braking hard. It has been raining out when it happens.

    I will be having the battery and alternator tested today and will be checking for any obvious loose connections or ground wires. What else should I be looking at?
  • mcarue2008mcarue2008 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure it out?
  • theflushtheflush Member Posts: 100
    The problem has not reoccurred since I replaced the battery. Advanced Auto tested it and said it was "not up to industry standards", even though it was only a little over 2 years old. The alternator also tested as having an open diode, so I replaced that as well. I have not driven far since I replaced the alternator, but I did drive about 100 miles since the battery replacement and have not seen the problem again.
  • abbeygalabbeygal Member Posts: 1
    I do not understand. I have the same problems; have taken it to local places AND the dealership; spent much $$$; still having problems. Should I take it back to the dealership and get the computer replaced or take it to my local place, whom I trust, but who can't find the cause of the problem? BTW, the dealership has already charged me lost of $$, said the fixed it, haven't and now want to charge me more, saying I need a new alternator (which was check other times when I took it in). PLEASE, PLEASE -- at my whits end, and NEED HELP!
  • jamesbeljamesbel Member Posts: 1
    Did you find out about your car? I am having the same problem, I have a new battery, new alternator, and had it serviced for electrical problems, but still cant figure it out.
  • ms180ms180 Member Posts: 1
    At the car wash my side mirror courtesy light assembly blew off. Now my windows or electric mirrors will not operate. I went to the right side in order to see how it was set up, and that one is broken about to fall off too. I have searched how to replace, or even find that assembly with no luck. Does the entire side mirror need replaced?
  • sps1961sps1961 Member Posts: 1
    2003 Mercury Sable burning out alternators. Changed coil, plug wires one year ago - problem seemed to go away - back again. Car accelerates on own will eventually slow down. If I take it out of gear at a stop light in some instances the RPMs will climb to 4000. Does not happen all the time. Just replaced the Mega Fuse but that was to no avail. And ideas will be greatly appreciated.
  • 1972bigdaddy1972bigdaddy Member Posts: 2
    First is this a DOHC or OHV engine? Sounds like Camshaft position sensor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKaKWdyHQZg Solves the intermitten revving. Needs to be scanned and serviced not just replaced. But your choice. I know its scary in traffic could cause an accident and Ford knows of this issue and wont do nothing about it. Does it do it more in summer heat? Also if you have a vacuum leak it could cause these malfunctions to occur and then the parts get stressed and fail. Check PCV valve hose neck. Manifold gasket leak too could cause stresses. Cheaper to repair these fords than buy a new car. Just take good care of it and do regular maintenance don't wait til failures.
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