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Comments
1-Battery light began coming on periodically
2-Began to blink on and off, seemed to do so with acceleration and braking
3-Airbag and ABS lights infrequently came on, then would go off after a minute or two.
4-Flickering became more frequent last several days, heater blower would cut out (and it was icy!), sometimes come back when I stopped.
5-Did not drive for over 24 hours, then no crank at all.
6-Replaced battery today, light still on as I drove home and no heater blower.
Any ideas??
I hope maybe someone can shed some light on this problem. I have a nice 1993 Ford Taurus, which I had an engine replaced in last year.
Recently, something is draining the battery while the car is TURNED off. It is not the alternator or the starter and my friend's can not figure out where the electrical drain is coming from. I do not want to take it to a shop as at 60 bucks an hour it could take hours to find some random drain and I am trying to sell the car. It would take up most of my profit if it took a garage 6 or 7 hours to find it.
Maybe no one here can help as it may not have happened to you, but if by chance someone has had the same issue, maybe you could advise.
I put a new battery in it and within a week (no driving just being in my parking lot) the new battery was drained. I have a second battery in it now, but I have to unhook the battery when not in use or it will drain that one also.
The only remote clue I might have to this drain is that the air bags do not work and I am not sure if this is connected to the air bags but every now and then, in fact quite often, even if car is OFF you will hear a loud BEEP BEEP BEEP coming from near the glove box. It will do that for about five minutes even if car is off. It also does it when you drive the car and will start at random several times while driving. It was doing it one day and my friend's even took out the glove box and could not tell where it was coming from. I wonder if that is the drain on the electrical system/battery. It is not a regular warning buzzer of any kind.
Something is a constant pull/drain on the battery. I am trying to sell this car and I do not want to sell it to anyone until I know what this is and get it fixed.
For now, I have to unhook the battery everytime I am not using the car or within days it will be drained. Othe then this issue, it runs great. My friends tested the starter and the alternator and it is not that, plus it drains brand new batteries even when not used at all.
Thanks to anyone who might be able to shed any light on this. I appreciate it greatly.
I have read that you can splice the factory alarm disarm wire and ground it out. Is this the best option or do you have another opinion on why this keeps happening?
Thanks
Chris
Is there any help??
:mad:
Thanks Frustrated Don
please ask dealer what it takes to fix it and let me know?
steve :lemon:
We have the same problem with the dashboard lights.
Did you get an answer to your problem or get it fixed?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Its not fixed. I asked a mechanic, who speculated that the cause was in the electronic circuit board in the back of the dashboard display, which would be very expensive to replace. However, I don't believe that's it, and I can't say that he was speaking from "experience".
I believe that the cause is in the headlight switch, on the dashboard below and to the left of the steering column, along with the dimmer. I believe that the problem is with a lose contact in there. I think the problem depends on the temperature outside; the dash doesn't work in the winter cold, but sometimes works in the summer heat. (It just resumed working temporarily last week.) I think that the temperature shrinks or swells a metal contact (or plug) just enough to break the circuit. (Or else its just loose!!) I haven''t invested in replacing that switch yet. I had the exact same problem with an earlier-model Taurus, and i think they were still using the same switch in manufacturing the 2001.
If you replace that switch and it works, let me know!
I've has some issues though. Got recalled for coil issue and ended up costing me $600. (sway bar/front end problems). Year later I replaced the ball joints, coils, struts and rotors. (~$1000)
That being said, the car has been a good soldier - I drive lots of miles and it has been very reliable - I would buy another....
Few issues currently:
*Door ajar light on which sort of disables the auto door lock feature and messes with interior lights too - Going to try the WD-40 trick I just read about.
*Low Coolant light comes on intermittently, but the coolant level is fine?
*Cruise Control stopped one day? Is there a fuse for this? What fuse?
*AC blows warm? Going to try loading a can or two of refrigerant?
These are small nuisance-type problems, but in Massachusetts, I can not get an inspection sticker with a dash warning light on!
Thanks :lemon:
i have a friend that asked me when telling him all of this if her drivers seat was electricly adjustable, which it is. he told me ford/mercury have problems the the electric seats that cause problem (shortage) in other spots on the car. she took it to a garage and the guy said it was pretty much an elecrtical problem that would cost at least a grand to try to fix through a shop he knows that specializes in that. though that doesn't mean it will be fixed. so now she kinda just deals with it. it seemed to happen more in the summer when it was hot out. sounds like a constant problem with this company if you ask me :lemon:
this is our second car from ford/mercury... it will be our last.
The battery was recently replaced as was the cam sensor and idler pulley.
Ideas?
While driving on the highway and running either A/C or heater at max fan with Radio on, the car engine will die or stall violently jerking the car with all warning lights on and then continue OK. This happens at random but semi-frequent intervals. The more electronics I turn off, the less it happens but it happens all the same. No error codes or engine lights are displayed after the fact. (In one instance, it also seemed to make the AC over heat.) The radio will also turn on and off and automatically change volume as a forewarning to the sudden stall on the highway. (It has also stalled and died under similar conditions at slow speeds.) (Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.)
Thanks - MJB315
Prior to this I bought a new battery at wmart and things seemed fine until the battery died for the first time. Well it has been about a month and the battery drain was fixed this weekend and this morning the car was dead and would not start click, or anything (no light in the car either. The batter was charged up fully 24 hours ago.
If I jump the car the car starts right up but when I remove the jumper cables the car shuts off. Tried this 3 times with the same result. While the car was running the battery light in the dash was flickering. I am surmising 2 things at this point. Defective battery or bad altenator or both. I was going to pull the altenator this weekend ans have it tested but id did not have a long enough handled wrench to release the belt tensioner so I could get the altenator off.
What sort of wrench do you use for this belt tensioner, i know it is 15 MM but you can not fit a socket on it because there is no clearance.
I am thinking bad battery at this point because of the number of full drains and charges I have had to give it.
Thoughts??? AIM tbirdpj
Thanks