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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Dashboard Issues

passenger1passenger1 Member Posts: 2
edited August 2014 in Chevrolet
I have a Canadian bought 2000 S-10 that I'm trying to sell in California. Is it possible, or advisable, to replace the instrument panel so it primarily reads in miles rather than kilometers?
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  • passenger1passenger1 Member Posts: 2
    Anyone able to help?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Strictly an opinion, but I would say no. Because it's a Canadian-spec vehicle, changing the gauge cluster will immediately make the vehicle "TMO" - True Mileage Unknown. This voids all warranties that may still be in effect, and makes it very difficult to sell.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • spoolerspooler Member Posts: 15
    Ive got a problem with my ignition keys or lock. It seems that lately no matter which key I put into the ignition switch, I have great difficulty getting it out of "lock" posistion. If I jiggle the keys around enough,and the steering wheel for 5 to 10 mins, the ignition switch will eventually go from "lock" to the "off" position and then it's no problem getting the keys to turn to "start". It used to be I had one key (an orignal) that had never given me problems, but it's prbably getting worn out. The other two were duplicates made by the orinigal owner and would work with again losts of shaking (and cursing). My question is, do I need a new lock cylinder? Or should I just call a Chevy dealer with the VIN number and just try a new set of factory keys? The key knock-outs were lost by the original owner.
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    wow, i had this exact same problem, i would mess around with the wheel and jiggle it for a half hour, and now i can get it within 30 seconds, try this:

    Put your key in normal
    smack key with fist to get it in farther
    turn key

    works for me every time, changing a key cylinder is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], cheap parts though, so either way its not a big problem if you know what you are doing and have the right tools.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I have the same problem with my 92 S-10. When my keys get that way I get new ones made and they work better. They still have their moments but they do work better.
  • spoolerspooler Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for your replys! I finally did what hoodlatch suggests and went down to the Chevy dealer to have a new ignition key made. In order to do that they needed to see proof of ownership of the vehicle,VIN# and a photo-ID. The parts guy cut a new key, and now it works like a charm! I only had them do one since I thought it could be a lock cylinder issue. Didn't have the truck with me at the time to try it. But since this one works so well, I'll have them cut me another. The cost per key $9.15. Evidentally according to the parts guy, it happens a lot. The keys just get worn out. Sometimes though the cylinders are shot.
  • oscar7oscar7 Member Posts: 1
    1997 Cheb c/k Pick-up: Drove over curve with rt front wheel.
    Parked truck. Woulld not shift into park. Could not get key out of lock. Pushed hard and able to put shift into park.
    Cannot get key out. Otherwise, shift and drives normal.
    Does this chain of events suggest something new? Please advise.
  • ftorres00ftorres00 Member Posts: 8
    Your problem is the ignition switch solenoid, it is attachd to the ignition switch with only one screw and one tiny electrical connector, it is dealer part but not expensive, you can replace it or just remove it, it is a safety lock so you can start or turn off you car only in the park position. Good luck!!
  • spoolerspooler Member Posts: 15
  • argochevenatorargochevenator Member Posts: 2
    I cannot find a diagram or tear apart sequence to replace my lock cylinder for my 1991 Sonoma 6 cyl 4.3L.

    They key wore out, then the cylinder was slowly chewed up and intermittent upon using a screwdriver.
    The cylinder is now stuck in the ignition on position. So I disconnect the battery when the vehicle is not used.
    I've had it parked for six months now, and need to start driving it again.

    Anyone with 12 fingers of steel know how to get the column apart and extract the cylinder and install the repair kit?
    I found the parts at 1aauto parts online.
    Since this vehicle is a stick and not automatic, I don't think this vehicle needs the starter switch solenoid since it can't sense "park" and "drive gears", except neutral of course.

    I'm tempted to cut out the lock cylinder with a large caliber handgun or a grinder and just wire key switches on the dash itself.

    BTW, this truck has 174,000 miles and was not made on a Friday at 4:00 PM. Still runs great, and have put a plenty of replacement maintenance parts in this vehicle.

    Alas, anyone successfully taken this column completely apart, especially when damaged, and reassemble with some certainty besides the dealers?

    Thanks in advance, willing to trade electronics help and solutions gladly.
  • argochevenatorargochevenator Member Posts: 2
    Been there, done that. But what do you do when the cylinder is worn out with hardened replacement keys?
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    Oscar? your style of writing barely makes any sense, have someone else write it.
    Curve? for Curb?
    Cheb? for Chev?
    You drove over curb, and left vehicles' Right Front Wheel pressing against curb?
    That's against the law of physics for one, and forcing steering wheel and lock to compensate. OK, Good Job Oscar.
    Don't hit post until you read it twice first.
  • jobie1jobie1 Member Posts: 2
    does anyone know if there is bulbs you can replace to illuminiate the interior switch or is it a complete replacement part
  • toneygtoneyg Member Posts: 19
    This would be a replace part and more than likely a dealer item and you would need a secondary power line to it also
  • jcossejcosse Member Posts: 1
    Strange problem with my 2000 S-10 4WD started this morning. When I step on the brakes the dash lights go dim, like for night time riding. When I release the brake dash lights come back on again. Also, when I operate the turn signals the radio lights go on and off with the turn signals. Voltmeter reads 14 and I've driven the truck about 50 miles since this started. Truck still starts fine. All exterior lights are working, as are all fuses -- nothing blown. Anyone have any ideas? Maybe a voltage regulator problem?
  • jobie1jobie1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help , thought the same thing , probally just live with no light in it , switching of lights work fine !
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I had the same problem. I took the little metal pin out of mine. I discovered on mine there is a removable plastic plug on the underneath side where you can stick a pencil up in it to manually release the solenoid to get the key out. :)
  • mattys15mattys15 Member Posts: 2
    My odometer broke when i hit the tripometer everything else works execept the trip and odometer. any idea on what to do?
  • gotgoldfevergotgoldfever Member Posts: 4
    My gas gauge does not work. It never goes below about 3/4 full. If I fill it up it reads full and then slowly goes down to 3/4. Some times at idle the needle will suddenly swing from whereever it is between full and 3/4 to empty. Is it the sending unit, the guage, or do I have a short or something? If its the sending unit has anyone ever replaced one? Any words of wisdom in doing so?
    Thanks!
  • gotgoldfevergotgoldfever Member Posts: 4
    After further research this appears to be a pre-cursor to the in tank fuel pump going bad. The fuel pump and sending unit are in one assembly. Ok time for a rant. I have less than 100,000 miles on this truck and I have replaced the uper and lower ball joints, the cv joints are bad and this fuel pump problem seems to be a known issue - happens on all these trucks (btw a new fuel pump is over $300) I have had two Toyotas prior to this truck. The first one had 350,000 miles on it and all that ever needed to be replaced were the brakes and the clutch, the onther one had 150,000 on it, nothing ever wrong with it and I traded it in on this piece of crap - wish I hadn't. GM wonders why they are not selling well.....
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The gauge sender can be replaced, about $30 for the part.
  • gotgoldfevergotgoldfever Member Posts: 4
    yeah but why would you only replace the sender when you have to take the freaking bed of the truck out (or the gas tank which is worse) to get to it and since its an indication that the fuel pump is going bad?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Well I just leave the bed on and jack up one side, any ways I'm cheap.
    I don’t understand the analogy, if the sender is bad the pump is too, never heard that one before.
  • pastormattpastormatt Member Posts: 2
  • pastormattpastormatt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 GMC Sonoma. All my gauges work minus the speedometer/odometer. The odometer does display however, just doesn't move. All my fuses are good. It occurred after putting back in my factory radio (on the same day.) Guessing it had something to do w/it.

    Any ideas??
  • tabadadtabadad Member Posts: 1
    :( Saw where you had the same problem with speedometer on your 99 Sonoma after putting the radio back in. Can you please let me know if you were able to find out what the problem was? Thanks
  • amoxapoxaamoxapoxa Member Posts: 1
    How did you get the dash off, i want to change out my stereo
  • gmctruckissuesgmctruckissues Member Posts: 1
    I got almost the same problem. Mine is showing 1/4 when its full. Pulled the bed off and pulled the pump out. Hooked a volt ohm meter up to it. When the float is down(empty tank) 0 ohms. When the float is up ( full tank) 100 ohms. My "Haynes" repair book says this is good????? Fun of it, I replace the fuel pump with a new one. Same thing. Whats up, where do I look next.
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