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I doubt that, sincerely doubt it. In any case the dealer had the option of simply replacing the highdeam/drl bulbs, the TSB is not covered under a warranty extension and is clearly NOT mandatory.
Ask the dealer what damage is done by the highbeam/DRL bulb "blowing out".
Since acting on the TCB is not mandatory and only applies under specific complaints, "don't ask, don't tell" (unless the owner complains don't ask, don't volunteer any TSB information)
Without thinking real hard about it, I would say it's the worst car in the snow I've owned - out of 41 cars! That's not saying much.
Now many of the cars I've had over 30 + years did have studded snow tires, so those might not count.
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Automotive manufacturers seem to be becoming more and more aware of that fact as the years go by. Or perhaps the automative insurance companies are sharing some statistical information RWD vs FWD.
So NO, while you can safely turn off TC in a RWD or R/awd vehicle and still maintain directional control even with the rear wheels spinning madly, virtually NO traction, that situation in a FWD or F/awd vehicle is totally another matter.
Having said that I see no harm in allowing the TC function to be turned off when stopped or traveling slowly. Provided it is automatically re-enabled after a short time period or having reached a decent road speed.
Toyota declined stating it was NOT a recall but a TSB. Not a happy camper at the moment.
There is also a NHTSA number on this defect #10033406
Recommend that you just keep hammering on the dealer to get Toyota to cover the full cost. I had the EXACT same thing happen. Toyota's original offer to me was 2/3 - 1/3. I did do the repair and paid the 1/3. But I went back to them explaining the many actions available to me, none of which would be good for Toyota's already tarnished image. They ultimately reimbursed me for 100% of the cost. Be persistent. Good luck.
I'll try to contribute as I can. Daughter has a '97 Avalon with 250K miles that is like new. Great car. I got tired of the Tahoe so will drive the Avalon most of the time...wife has a new MINI. OK, enough rambling.
Now my right HID headlight is begining to intermittently fail.
I have also had a front wheel bearing and my turn signals fail on this car. I have let my Toyota dealer know I'm not too happy with Toyota's quality.
Enjoy your Avalon, I loved both my 06 and my 03. Just a quick question though, what is TSS?
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
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2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Left HID bulb has cut off a few times and will likely need to be replaced soon.
Other than a small problem with the driver's power window which was repaired under warranty - no problems in the first 130,000 miles with this car. GREAT AUTOMOBILE!
removing 6 plastic pop rivets
removing the battery
removing 2 bolts from the fuse box
pushing it slightly out of the way to get to the HID light assembly
replace bulb
reset your front power windows, moon roof, and VSC.
reprogram your GPS marked points and settings.
for a bulb replacement. Easy! ROFL
For me, that was on top of 4 recalls, a slipping transmission that dealer says is "fine," a tire pressure monitoring system that has failed three times, and lousy wet road traction. Guess who won't be looking to Toyota for next car.
SOP for FWD vehicles.
When ANY level of wheelspin/slip is detected, even the very slightest level, TC will INSTANTLY dethrottle the engine while simultaneously braking the driven, front, wheels.
Loss of traction on your front wheels is such a dire matter, potentially HAZARDOUS matter, that wheelspin/slip must be ABATED as quickly as possible. Many newer FWD and F/awd vehicles are now automatically detuning the engine at low speed or in the lower gear ranges as a pre-emptive measure to help alleviate loss of traction.
Loss of traction on a wet roadbed will be just as quick, all other aspects being equal, on a RWD or R/awd, but since directional control can still be maintained, asserted, TC on these vehicles may not have such a quick "trigger". Actually many modern RWD vehicles will actually delay the onset of TC activation for a few hundred milliseconds in order to give the driver time to react and feather the throttle.
Hell, all highway 21-24 is the best I've gotten the last 4 trips or so.
I may be taking another trip south in a few weeks. The trip is 1350 miles each way, so I get to drive ALL highway for 3 or more tanks each way. I live next to 95, and so does the person I'll be visiting, so when I say ALL highway, I mean it:)
Is there anything that has come up over the years to justify this drop?
I have 45,000+ miles on the car, and drive very easy (as my kids will tell you).
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Average 28 - 29 mpg at 70 mph.
If they are same as OEM in size, rating, etc., I would be looking hard to find some sort of fuel system or electronic malfunction.
It's not your car, it's your federal government requiring additives like alcohol that reduces mileage. The Obama administration just approve a request from alcohol producers that gasoline be allowed to blend up to 15% alcohol in gasoline and also that no labels be required on the gas so you don't know what you're buying.
Call you representative and request that labels be required on all blends above 7.5% on you'll be paying for it in reduced gas mileage and shorter engine life.
The EPA has approved a partial use of E15 (15% ethanol) for 2007 and later vehicles only. Labels will be required on all pumps warning against using this fuel in older vehicles. This has the potential to be a big mess if folks don't pay attention to what they are buying.
The majority of states currently require labels for up to 10% E10, but some states do not (13 states, I believe). This information can be accessed on Google or other sites.
You're correct about 2007 cars but a ruling is expected soon on 2001-2006 for E15 which is expected to be approved. E15 will require a separate pump at gas stations so as not to be confusing. Higher blends of E25 are currently being lobbied by agribusiness..... just bad news anyway you look at it.
My concern is that the federal and state governments are giving significant tax breaks to ethanol blends and it's so prevalent that straight gas is getting hard to find in most states. Also, many times I've looked for ethanol labels and didn't see them because they are poorly placed.
Historically (since 1970's) ethanol blends up to 7.5% have been used to raise octane ratings. Higher blends poise huge problems because they have a short shelf life and absorb water. When over 7.5% you see separation in fuel tanks and problems starting in cold weather. Small engine and marine engines melt down due to a combination of problems with ethanol blends and it's likely large engines will start showing the same problems. It's so likely that major gas station chains are concerned over liability issues.
I think we are beginning to see those issues appear as more and more people get concerned with major fuel mileage loss being the first of those concerns.
Again,
Contact your representative and demand complete labeling on fuel and that subsidy for ethanol be withdrawn.
I did notice a drop after putting them on, but it has gotten worst over the past 6 months or so.
I does seem to have a hick-up occasionally. I have an appointment for new week and I hope they find something.
It will be a shame to spend $100.'s to not find anything (I could use that money for gas:))
I think you were indicating that the voltage supply to the high beam tends to be low. I just don't understand how to increase it.
I'm guessing there is some sort of resistance in series with the high beam light, but I don't know where that resistance might be. Would you tell me where it is so that I can make some alternative.
Also, you mentioned adding some LED's. Where and how (series/parallel) did you do that?
Thanks for your earlier post.
I simply installed a 12 volt relay in series with the existing DRL circuit and then used the relay contacts to power a pair of 3W LEDs for DRL.
Avalon V-6 is "interference" engine. Timing chain failure would result in severe engine damage, so life expectancy must be pretty good.
With the current oil and engine technology there is absolutely no reason to change your oil every 3K. The new 4.0L 6 cylinder on the Toyota FJC uses 0w20 synthetic and calls for a 10k oil change. I've seen oil analysis done at that mileage (we own one) with the oil spec'ing out quite robustly.I've seen rumors that Toyota was to go with the 0w20 on the 2011 Avy but it did not happen.
5K is more than fine for our Avys, expecially with the use of that 5w30 synthetic. I, too, use the M1 5w30 in our Avy and have seen tests done on it, too. The oil is actually still strong even at 5k. IMHO, don't waste your money on the 3K oil change when 5K is more than adequate and truly protects your engine beautifully.
Based on everything I have read about synthetics, you probably could go to 10000 miles, but my personal preference would probably be 8000 miles max. I have just never made the change from conventional oil.
As a side note, my father-in-law was a garage owner, and he started me on Quaker State in the first new vehicle I ever owned. I have never had a oil related engine problem in 50+ years.
Certified and with full maintanance book. Done by Toyota service stations.
The sticker in my window when I bought the car read " that current milage plus 5000" for the next oil change.
Reading through the service book this car seems to be a problem free maintanance car. Majority is on the oil and air filter changes, plus the sparks when that occur... : )
Figured out the flickering of head lights and panel lights.
There's a resistor sensor behind the dash where you can illuminate the dash light, this resistor is also linked to the head lights.
When the resistor gets to warm it will start flicker as it tries to get colder.
This is something I will take up with technicians next week. Because they don't know why lights are "flickering" ..... at least they have something to start working with.
Maybe we all can make this as a "non-cost-recall"
Per
Most of the time, snow behavior is about the tires, not the car. Check the tire wear and the tire inflation. Some cars like the Avalon with brake force assist can provide too much braking. Also check the condition of the brakes because they are how the traction control manages slippery conditions.
Hope you figure out your problem because we have the same car and have zero issues in snow.
This is a pain, but you can turn off your traction control on the Avalon. I use it in situations when the power to both wheels is killed.
Transition to the service mode (TRAC and VSC OFF mode).
The TRAC and VSC systems can be turned off by following the procedures below:
When using the parking brake and brake pedal:
1) Check that the IG is off and the shift lever position is at P.
2) Start the engine after turning the IG to the ON position.
3) Operate the following steps 4 to 8 within 30 seconds after engine start.
4) Turn the parking brake switch on.
5) Depress and release the brake pedal twice.
6) Turn the parking brake switch on and off twice while depressing the brake pedal.
7) Depress and release the brake pedal twice while the parking brake switch is on.
Steps 6 and 7 should be performed within 15 seconds each.
8) Check that the VSC warning light and slip indicator are turned on. If they are not turned on, start over from step 1.
9) The brake control system will return to the normal mode by turning the IG to the ON position from off.
My 06 Avalon was great in the snow. I had the Bridgestone EL400 tires from the factory (they wore fast, but were decent performers). If you are having trouble with the Avalon in the snow be thrilled you didn't buy the Genesis. The stock Dunlop tires on my 09 Genesis render the car useless in the bad weather. Actually, my Genny is still in the driveway covered in snow. Thank goodness my GFs Elantra is great in bad weather.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
This happened when I purchased the car, at about 3600 miles and they replaced a CV shaft or something like that.
I was tempted to take a 2011 out when he said that, just to see, but I felt I'd get nowhere if it didn't do it i.e., older car, they've made changes since 2008 blah, blah, blah
So has anyone else had this happen and what was the out come?
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