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Comments
The proceedure for standard shift with electronic 4x4 will require the clutch pedal depressed instead of the brake pedal.
Any trans with manual shift 4x4 generally requires complete stop, put trans in neautral, shift the transfer case into the 4 wheel mode, then shift the trans back into gear.
If you encounter difficulty shifting the transfer case into 4x4, leave it in 2 wheel and back up about 20 ft, shift the trans into neautral while still rolling for about the last 5 to 10 ft, come to a complete stop then try shifting the transfercase into 4x4 mode. If you have the owners manual check for the proceedure described there.
The fuse under the hood,I think it is 15 amp(might be 10 amp) for the 4x4 switch keeps blowing,even trying to install another fuse you get sparks,just plugging the fuse in.
I was wondering what it controls,is it the 4x4 module under the dash?
Also,do I need to drop the whole front defferential to change the u-joint next to it?or can I remove the cover and reach in there and do it that way?
Thanks for looking.
I am looking for feedback. This is what I want to accomplish, and here is where i am starting.
I have had a few issues with the transfer case, and i do not have the cash to spend on a new or replacement transfer case. Is there any way to bypass the transfer case when it is COMPLETELY disconnected to any moving internal gears.
It does not park when in park, the drive train up to the transfer case turns but there is a gear disconnected on the inside. it does not exhibit any transmission problems. just will not engage in the transfer case AT ALL.
History: about a year ago, my 4x4 was damages and "stuck" in 4x4 High. so to save gas, i disconnected the front drive shaft assembly. i have not had any problems with noise, vibration, etc until about a month ago. The transfer case made a crunching sound (obviously not good) and I figured i will just drive it like a truck: into the ground.
So now the transfer case is the disease. I want to bypass or isolate it, or if anyone knows where to egt the model below cheap, then I'll replace it.
Ive got plenty of depot level manuals, I'm mechanically inclined. So please leave the stupid comments to the dumb girls who think they need 2 transmissions and "halogen" fluid.
2001 Ford Ranger EXT-Cab 4x4 w/ 2" suspension lift
V6 4.0L GAS
Automatic Transmission and electronic 4x4 engagement.
Transfer Case Model No.: 1L54-7A195-CC, SN: 6C-13-54-000-037
Thanks,
Steve
US Army
VET
link title this is the part # FOTZ3B396A try looking on E bay for the warn option
It was fine for 100 miles, now it's starting up again, in both 4 and 2 wheel drive. The mechanic drove it for 15 miles and is completely stumped. Happening every mile or so, but now I don't want to drive it! He says it's not rear end -- that they tore that apart and it looks fine.
Any ideas??? Thanks!
I haave a 93 Rqanger 4x4 that has a really bad viberation above 60 mph. I had the wheels ballanced and I installed new u-joints and the drive shaft is straight, this viberation is so bad you almost go off the road. I did notice that when I raised the psi in the tires for 30 to 40 psi the viberation seems to not quite so bad, I did notice that if I hit a bump in the road the viberation tends to change, some time better and some times worse.
Can the carrier bearing cause this?
I have owned my ranger since new, it was in garage at night until last year and the 4X4 worked until 2 months ago. When it failed me I called dealer who said that the shift motor on transfer case was probably bad - cost to replace about $400. After researching this I bought a rebuilt motor, installed it and still had the problem. But by this time, I was suspecting a different problem because sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. After reading the threads on this site, and another, I tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the electronics. Still would not work all the time. About a week ago I noticed that it would not work when it was cold but would work after I had driven it for 30 minutes. At first I thought it was the shift motor warming up but I now know it is the control module. I proved this by waiting for it to be cold (less than 40F), seeing that it didn't work then warming the CM with a hair dryer. I took the panel off to expose the CM when I warmed it. Now I am trying to buy the CM off of Ebay. I suspect that some of the other folks who have had problems when it snowed, etc may have the same problem. I also wonder if I have had the problem for awhile but that it didn't show up sooner because the Ranger was in the garage.