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I highly recommend that USAA members at least try this service - it was so easy. The dealer gave me their LOW price the day before I used USAA and it was $2k higher. Once I went through USAA though it was no problem getting the lower price.
2010 CX-9 GT: 28,906
M/B: 1,939
Nav: 1,432
Liftgate: 344
Towing: 86
= 32,707 + TTL +0% financing
Also got $500 off for already being a Mazda owner - but that came off the back end, not off the price
In the process of pricing a 2010 GT AWD with Bose/Moon, Nav,
Power liftgate, Tow hitch, and Roof rack. MSRP is $39990, Invoice
is $36704, and Dealer cost is $34383. TMV what others are
Paying price is $34601. I would like to throw an OTD price/ offer.
I would also qualify for the $500 loyalty and 0/60 financing. Should I start
with the TMV price of $34601, minus $500 loyalty as base and figure TTL to
come up with my OTD and stand firm? With all the info
In this forum it appears some are doing even better. Anyone made a
Great deal on a similar model?There are lots of CX9 in my state.
In my state.
2010 Mazda CX-9 Touring AWD (MSRP $33,220) for $28,488? This is without the 0% financing.
I am trading 2006 Odyssey exl with 36k miles and they are offering $16,500 trade. That seems a bit low.
What should I push for?
Thanks.
With regards to the price, I think you can do better if it's without 0%. The MSRP of the GT that I bought was almost $34000 and purchased for $29500 with 0%. Based on that price, the difference in our MSRPs ($780) and my purchase price, the Touring you are interested in should be around $26700 with $2K off.
Asked for the "What Others are Paying" from Edmunds and one dealer said ok, come on in but the local dealer where I live said I could not get the financing on that price. It would be a cash price.
The one dealer could be a come on but accepted $37,553 OTD. I am in no hurry so I'll let it ride awhile to see if the local guy comes back.
Regards,
OW
Haven't pushed it further yet and still not where I believe it can be. Thought they might come in a little better being the last day of the month. Will wait to see what incentives Mazda offers for November. Still intrigued with some of the posts saying they are getting both the 0/60 financing and $2000 incentive. My dealer offered one or the other. Didn't push for both yet. If I could land both then would be a lot closer to where I think it should be from many of the deals on this forum. I've bought a few Mazda's from this dealer but may need to expand the search if things stall. Will update as negotiations continue.
Grand GT AWD, w/ Moonroof, Bose, Power Rear Lifted Gate, Navi for $32927 plus $100 processing fee plus TTL.
Is this a good deal? Reasonable deal? What's should I go from there?
Thanks in advance.
Any good? I am pretty happy with the deal. They gave me $10,850 for my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Limited), too, which was about $1,000 more than anyone else had offered.
I ponied up for an extended warranty (6yr/72,000 since my wife drives her cars forever) as it seemed fairly priced, and I will pay taxes OOP (they charge sales tax on the sales tax in MO from what I understand, if you roll it into the loan).
Was just reading around and wanted some feedback.
I purchased the 2010 CX9 T AWD for 32,990, 0% in the NYC area. Is that a good price?
Am shopping for a Black or Blue CX-9 GT AWD with the bose/moonroof package, Navigation and power rear hatch. I got a quote from a local dealer for a car that has all of the above plus tow hitch and harness, all weather floor mats and rear bumper step plate for $33,000. The MSRP (inluding destination fee) is $40,000.
The $33,000 price includes the $2K incentive, and so, will not qualify for the 0% APR. However, I am planning to put a down payment of ~10K and finance the rest with a 2.99% auto loan. I save more with the $2K off than the 0% in this case.
I was also able to get free oil changes for the life of the car.
This seems to be a good price based on the posts I've read here. The other dealers in the area are quoting $34,800 for the same car (without the tow hitch and the rear bumper step).
Is this really a good price? Any comments/thoughts? Thanks.
Did you get the car? I am trying to get to the same price in the SF Bay area but not succeeding yet. The dealers just got a shipment of 2011's so that might make a difference.
Thanks.
hope this helps
Still a bunch of 2010's in my state and appears that sales have slowed according
To my local dealer. Anyone bought a 2010 or 2011 in last few weeks? Anyone care to guess what Mazda may do as far as incentives for December?
While I loved the Buick, I couldn't see getting another one, or a Traverse, or a Arcadia - needed something different.
Came down to CX-9 and Pilot. Different animals, and might have gone Pilot if it had been comparably priced and did not have the cheap plastic on the dash, but the comparable Pilot was $6,000 more...couldn't see that for my "train car".
Plus, love the sporty ride and quietness of the CX-9.
Got $13,500 for my Spyder, and got the Touring CX9 w/wheel locks for $28,150 plus destination. Might have been able to get something better - but, seemed decent enough.
Now - to lease or just buy. Probably buy. Opinions? I'll probably hold onto this for 6 years, so, probably makes sense to just flat out buy it. Have until Wednesday morning to decide.
I waited for the new Pilot to come out until I saw the spy shots, then, I went to the Mazda dealer for the CX9.
I've owned several Honda/Acura in my life.
The hallmarks of Honda are "noises and lousy brakes".
My CX9 put a smile on my face every time I drive it around. And, I used to own a BMW 540iA for 10 yrs.
Anyway, I usually own vehicles for about 7 yrs. Therefore, I bought all the vehicles I owned. Why 7? Even reliable vehicles start to show problems after 7 yrs statistically.
I happen to agree.
Seeing cars come in on trade that are 7 years old with miles ranging from 90,000 to 150,000 almost always needs thousands in work to be considered a "safe" car to drive by most state laws. Some of this is neglected maintenance but also defective or broken parts (ABS light, check engine light, airbag light). With needing thousands of work, does this make them "reliable"? That's a tough question. I would say no. Just because a car is drivable does not make it reliable. I have seen this is every car made including Toyota's, Honda's, Nissann's, Mazda's, Ford's, GM's, VW's....etc....There are also cars that come in not needing much of all from all manufacturers. I guess how the car is taken care of can determine how "reliable" the car is when it gets older.
How do you figure current prices for 2011?