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I went to my G.M. Dealer a couple of weeks ago to get a "Annual Check-Up" on my 2010 LT2 HHR done and they checked the brakes.
I have 21 k on it and the mechanic said that if I don't change my driving habits I'm good for at least 3 years or more without changing the brakes or up to 55 k. He said that the way I drive I've used approximately 1 mm. of brake lining per year.
Before the HHR I had a 2005 Equinox and when I traded it in it had 67 k on it and still had the original brakes and tires.
Something must be wrong somewhere?
I installed the power stop drilled and slotted rotors and the ceramic brake pads. They have been very good at stopping but are very noisy. When using them lightly everything is find, but if you need to stop a little quicker they sound like there grinding. Still stops good. I only have 51000 on the car and I purchased the car new. Had to replace the pads at 32000 and thats when I went with PowerStop. I am having the original rotors turned and putting another set of ceramic pads on the car because of the noise.
shaking when you apply the brakes. It also has had the problem with the key stuck in the ignition and not being able to turn it off. The drivers side visor has fallen off, the windshield wiper squirter has quit working, and it is gurgling in the dashboard. The windows make a high pitch squeal everytime the roll up or down. I am so disgusted with this car and only have 20,000 miles. I will see what they have to say about the brakes. What is it going to take GM?
Admit you screwed up!!
For the brake problem...your front discs must be warped, your dealer have to machined them and the problem will be gone (this happened with my 2005 Equinox) if you put pressure on your dealer it will pass on warranty.
For the problem with your ignition...didn't you receive a letter explaining that there is a recall on that? Mine didn't have that problem but I made the dealer change the ignition unit with no questions asked.
Can't help with visor nor the windshield wiper squirter but these should be repair on warranty.
For the high pitch squeal from your window...God Lord, mind does the same and "yes" it's a pain in the *** and ears every time I have have to get it down or up...but only the driver's side.
All of this should pass on your warranty.
Don't forget to mention the recall for the ignition.
Good luck!
We hope that all went well with your visit yesterday - was it with one of our GM dealerships? As you have a 2010 vehicle and are at 20,000 miles, you are likely still within your Bumper to Bumper warranty. If we can check into anything further for you, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We're sorry to hear that you've had so many difficulties with your HHR; as you're at 42k miles you're outside of your bumper to bumper warranty on the vehicle, which would have covered many of the concerns you described. Is there anything you had been planning to have checked into further?
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We can check for any open recalls on your vehicle if you wanted to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN to socialmedia@gm.com
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I received a letter directly from G.M. Canada in Toronto telling me that the ignition unit on my 2010 hhr could and should be replace "no charge" because a recall had been issued for this.
Yes it is a expensive job, that's why I had it done on mine even if I hadn't experience any problems with it. What I don't understand is that 3 of my friends own HHR's and also had the letter I'm talking about and got their ignition unit changed...no charge...no questions asked.
We'd be happy to check into your vehicle's information to see if there are any open recalls if you wanted to email us the last 8 digits of your VIN at socialmedia@gm.com (or if you wanted to check into it yourself, you can set up an Owner's Center account at https://my.chevrolet.com/web/portal/managemybrand?g=1).
In regards to the other concerns you're having with your HHR and your dealership visits, we're happy to look into those further as well. If you contact us via email on that, please include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, a brief recap of the situation, and the name of your dealership.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
When it randomly happens, it is always when the car is almost to a complete stop...almost seems like it is squeezing to hard at that point. When the car starts moving again, the pads lightly grind for a few rotations then the grinding stops.
I have also noticed that when I turn when braking, I believe it can either initiate the problem or make it go away....but it is so random I am not really sure this has anything to do with it.
I think I have an idea what it could be, but I would like your unbiased opinion before I engage my less then spectacular mechanic skills. Thanks.
Hope this helps!
First things, Brakes, You need to upgrade HHR brakes from the factory rotors if you got anything but the SS model. Any Chevrolet Dealership will easily put better cross drilled rotors on there for about $400.00. The original were downright a rip off. Its better if they had sold the thing with no brakes.
I changed the struts with aftermarket struts(Monroe) 2 years ago in place of the originals and this week, I am getting new ones installed by the Chevrolet Dealership.
I am changing rear shocks, the ones back there are worn and leaking fluids, but it’s been 7 years and lots of load, and also some tie end rods and worn bushing mounts.
Minor repairs (This week) include a broken rear washer hose replacement, some loose things under the exhaust system need tightening, tie end rods, plus the door weather strip rubber.
This is my first Chevrolet after 6 Toyotas, including 4 in Africa and 2 Hondas plus a Mazda.
The thing is, when you use cars, things break. You have to be reasonable. Save for the front rotors, my HHR has been perfect in the sense that I only have had to replace normal tear and wear things.
If you expect to go and buy a Toyota and find automotive nirvana, or Honda, or better warranty or customer service, I say peace be with you, (for now).
I have to say, this is the most trouble free car I have ever owned, and believe you me, my typical car does a lot of miles every two or three days. I drive at least 60 miles or a normal work day. This HHR will still run to the speedometers end after 118,000.00 miles within 18 seconds, (in a safe closed course of course) and will embarrass a lot of cars off the line. The interior and exterior is like show room, nothing is broken.
The whole bill for this work, including the ordinary service is coming to about $1,300.00 in a Chevrolet dealership.
Would I have work done at a mom and pops, Honestly, No, I do not want the drama or headache.
Anywhere except little private corner garages and Car Dealers.
Last evening as I was coming home from work I came to a stop sign and of course, stopped. When I went to accelerate to move forward and I kid you not, the car made such a HORRID sound that I honestly believed the whole engine dropped out of the car. This morning I had it towed to the dealership where I purchased the car. The guy who towed it said he knew what the problem was when he had the front end up in preparation to tow it. The caliper on the passenger front wheel had "FALLEN OUT!!" After speaking to several people (the auto parts store; the guy who towed the car and the service person at the dealership) I learned that had this happened while I was driving down the highway (I take PA 43 to work everyday) 65 to 70 miles an hour the wheel would have "SEIZED UP." The person at the dealership even went so far as to say that had the caliper fallen out in this situation--and IF I would have survived it most likely would not have been a "pretty sight!!!" This whole scenario just makes me sick!!!
Just went for a semi annual check up and my brakes are at...
Front pads at 8 mm. and rear shoe at 4 mm. (mind you that they are the originals).
I adore my HHR and to bad they stopped the production with the 2011 because I'm planning to trade mine in 2 years and would have bought another HHR...best car I ever owned in 38 years of driving...buying my cars new and trading them every 5 years. Must have gotten a "cream puff" right of the line.
I also have a 2006 HHR. Mine has 109,000 miles on it, and the only problem I've had is the brakes. I've had the same problem with the steering wheel shaking when I step on the brake, but it only seems to be when I'm slowing down quickly (like from 65 to 45mph). I was first told there was oil in my brake line. This last time when I took it in, they said the wear on the rear brakes was at 30% - the exact same as the time before that. They started looking, and found that a part that diverts the brake fluid to front & rear brakes was clogged - the rear brakes are not getting any brake fluid, and therefore, aren't even being used.
Dealership called today and said can't find anything wrong-could this be a brake-rotor problem-would a problem with them affect the esc active alert? thanks for any help-I'm afraid to drive it........kathy
We truly apologize for this, and we would be happy to look into this further for you! Feel free to send us an e-mail at socialmedia@gm.com along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and the dealer your vehicle is at. We look forward to hearing from you.
Patsy G
GM Customer Care
A few months ago, a shop told me I had something like too much copper in my brake fluid and the system needed to be flushed.
This seemed to work for three about months, and then they said I needed new rotors and pads. Well I have done this work before. I am not paying someone else. Later when I took the caliper off myself, to my surprise there was nothing wrong with my rotor and pads, WTF.
Then a man said he had a vehicle with the same type of vibration when apply the brakes and the source was bad wheel bearings. Well mine appear to still be tight.
Here is the thing; rotors do not keep going bad. Something else is causing this.
Let’s see, I had bad brake fluid and a frozen wheel cylinder. Could it be the vibration is from the caliper sticking?
Replace the rotor--I like to buy the GM professional from sources on Amazon or Ebay. Verify the part numbers with acdelco.com and then shop.
I'd replace the caliper with new pins if it hasn't been done. Lube the pins properly.
And rarely I've heard call in radio programs with car mechanics on weekly shows talk about the interior of the brake hose collapsing and not letting the fluid return after pressurizing the caliper. IIRC, I believe the test was after applying the brake hard, open the bleeder screw and see if the pressure in the caliper is still high and squirts out fluid abnormally. I guess by testing both front calipers you'd have a bad one to compare with the other that usually would be okay. A far shot but a possible problem. Replacing the two rubber brake hoses would likely be a small cost. More trouble would be bleeding the air out of the lines after open the hose at that point closer to the master cylinder.
Good luck.
Remember the Law of Parsimony. The simplest solution is more likely the better one. So I offered the hose problem, but I'd think it's a far shot.
I just did the brakes on my Cobalt at 100K mi a few months back for the first time. So I checked the calipers and the slides and they both seemed okay. I did not replace calipers nor did I do a rebuild on the calipers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,