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Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Heating Ventilation

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Comments

  • jchavez1jchavez1 Member Posts: 1
    my 96 jeep blowes hot air for about 5 min & gos cold unyil you turn off & on
  • debc68debc68 Member Posts: 3
    My jeep has the infrared sensor and I don't know if that's the problem but my blower works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Lately it's been more not working than working. This is both for heat and AC. Since it works sometimes....I'm assuming the blower motor is okay as well as the fuse. Any ideas??
  • debc68debc68 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to a link i found on this site...">link titlehttp://www.wjjeeps.com/index.htmlink title
    it turns out I have a bad connector that's at the end of the wire harness to the blower motor located under the passenger side dash/glovebox area. Mopar makes a repair kit for around $16.00!! Finally, after weeks of no heat and the temps here have been in the teens.......I can now move the wire and keep the heater blowing strong until I get the fix. Glad I didn't go to a shop.
  • annettehannetteh Member Posts: 2
    I am having this same problem as of two days ago and don't have money for dealer to waste time trying to figure out what is wrong. If you find a solution, can you post it on here please. I've checked all the fuses and don't find any blown. The air blows but passenger side is cold and driver side is hot...great now that we are expecting snow as I won't be able to defrost passenger side.
  • annettehannetteh Member Posts: 2
    can you give me some more info on this heater treater kit...i cant find it on ebay and my 2001 jgc limited just started havign problems blowing cold air on passenger side and hot air on driver side...i have no money for dealer repairs....thanks
  • rw2352ajrw2352aj Member Posts: 16
    You can prob. get it repaired by a non dealer repair shop for under 400 dollars. Advise thru this source your location and I will advise you were if you are close. We must all wise up and get rid of our Jeeps. They are just too costly to maintain. I opened the Inidanapolis star this morning and found all car dealerships had ads. Even our larged Toyota dealership had ads for his Ford, Kia, and other dealerships but not for his Toyota dealership. Do you know why he did not adv for the the Toyota dealership. BECAUSE HE DOESN'T HAVE TO ADVERTIESE FOR THEM, THEY SELL THEMSELVES BECAUSE THEY ARE GOOD AND RELIABLE. Take the
    $400 you pair for repair of the heater doors at an independant garage or the $1,200 you would pay at the dealership and any other money you can scrape up and buy a used Highlander. You will not be sorry. This spring my 2003 that looks like new and I just spent over $1,000 on it for brakes all around, A/C condenser, and 3 new heater doors( I had the hinge breaking problem) plus I just spent 500 dollars for new Wranger tires and trade it in on a Highlander. I should run it out a while until I feel I recoup some of that 1500 or 1600 dollars I just spent but instead I am going to chaulk that expense up to a bad Jeep experience. Good luck but I really encourage you to get rid of it. It is going to cost you over and over again.
  • pdevpdev Member Posts: 1
    Hi I've got a 2000 Grand Cherokee with a serious vibration/rattle coming from the passenger dash/console area. It only happens when the engine revs at around 1500. Even with the vehicle stationary in park it still does it. Any ideas?
  • ellachellach Member Posts: 8
    Can any one tell me where i can get the kit ?
    Kevan ellach2@yahoo.co.uk
  • gary635ggary635g Member Posts: 2
    depress ac and recirc buttons at same time turn left temp control clockwise release buttons and self diagnose will display fault codes. Probably broken doors internal that requires removing instrument panel and dash to access heater/ac unit so it can be removed and inverted to disassemble. Big problem dealer 8 hours flat rate at $90/hr in Yuma. Temp fix remove ac compressor fuse under hood insure recirc is in operation heat from inside car will eventually warm passenger side. Recirc will not work when defrost mode or extreme difference between driver and passanger temp settings.Main problem removing ac unit is that refrigerant must be dumped and recharged on re assembly.
  • crxeffectcrxeffect Member Posts: 1
    99 GC Limited. pass. side blows cold air constantly, drivers side works just fine. any ideas?
  • cpriestcpriest Member Posts: 1
    click on ebay search,type in heater treater,click on box for title and discription should come up for buy-it-now.hope this helps.if not leave your e-mail address,and i'll email you a link
  • jlancourjlancour Member Posts: 1
    I was reading your reply as I also had a blower motor and fuse check out good. What does this resistor look like? I see a rectangular black box with Delco stamped on it and 3 wires coming in to it on one side. Is this the resistor? Any idea on cost? Daughters car and trying to get her some heat/AC.
  • clkingclking Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a kit off ebay and installed with no problem. $130 plus $10 shipping.
  • adjeepadjeep Member Posts: 1
    2000 GC Limited, 56,000 miles. Passenger side blows cold constantly. Drivers side works just fine. Whats wrong?
  • daisleydaisley Member Posts: 1
    Hello, New guy on the block...
    I have a 99 GC Ltd with 42,000 miles, with AZC dual control HVAC. Had the blend doors replaced last spring, due to blowing passenger cold air all the time.
    Now the AZC doesn't regulate the temperature consistently. Starting out on a cold day, it pumps hot air unless I set the control on "Lo". Any setting above that is too warm, both sides. After a while, it slowly starts to change (cool), and I have to slowly increase the temp setting to maintain a comfy cabin temperature. If I suddenly slow down from hiway speed, it momentarily goes cold. Its really hard to describe, but seems the AZC has a mind of its own, and altho I can control it, its certainly not "automatic".. Any ideas???
    Thanks.
  • junya1junya1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello all, need some help. I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited and the heat went out on the passenger side a couple of weeks ago. Today the heat stopped working on the drivers side. The blower comes on, but all i get is cold air. Checked the fuses and all seem to be fine. Is there anything else that I can check before i take it to a dealer. Thanks for any help

    SS
  • zabelzabel Member Posts: 6
    About 2 months ago i did an A/C evaporator in a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7L V8
    along with a new Accumulator and a modified fixed orifice tube. Flushed the system and replaced the oil in the compressor. On dismantling of the evaporator box i found that the drivers side blend door hinge was broken / only made of plastic.
    The blend door was replaced and the A/C componentry was reassembled.
    System works perfectly except on quite humid days whilst the A/C system is
    cycled, the passenger floor [ being LH side here in Aust.] becomes moist and after a week or so the floor becomes saturated. Drain tube is not blocked, no cracks in evaporator box. All i can see is that when the temp. controls are turned down to low and operated for quite sometime, that condensation builds up on the outside of the evaporator box above the footwell. I have put anti-condensation wrap on the outside of the box hoping that this may result in a cure??? Anyone heard of this before? From the articles i have read in this Forum it seems most of you guys suffer from heating problems more so than cooling problems? No snow here in Queensland... Thanks all...
  • slat4mxslat4mx Member Posts: 1
    I bought the Heater Treater but live here in Las Vegas and cant find a mechanic to install it.Can anyone point me in the direction of a mechanic that will install it?
  • jboone01jboone01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee and have little or no heat. I have replaced the thermostat, water pump and blend air doors and still have no heat. The blend air doors were replaced by the dealer, they replaced the wiring harness, because the fan would not blow any air. They have flushed the system at least three times, each time I would have med heat and then the next day it's cold again. Now they are saying I have a flow problem and keep flushing out the system or tear down the engine. My Goodyear dealer says that the next thing it could be is to replace the control head at a cost of another $500.00, but the dealer keeps telling me it is fine. At this point I am at a lose for words and don't know who to believe. What can I do to get heat in this beast. I live in Chicago and it is -20. Help
  • rw2352ajrw2352aj Member Posts: 16
    I wished I could help you. I had the doors replaced by and independent garage who was a former Jeep Mech. Everything was fine. We hit some 10 degree weather and my 2003 GC ltd. would warm if idling and the temp needle would come off the peg and go to just below 190 degrees and the car would be toasty. Then going down the highway it would not heat and the needle would go to the peg again. Car X replaced the thermostat which was stuck open, blew out everything and then flushed the radiator. They told me the specs say it takes 15 minutes to get up to 190 degrees. After the $182.00 repair it is now toasty very quickly including driving at highway speeds. This was my experience and I sure it does not help you any. Frankly I do not trust the dealer doing what they say they do. I had a dealer who couldn't program a new key fob. They said I needed a new key fob at a rediculus price. I find one for half the price on the internet. Before I bought it I found some instructions for programing my old one. After trying it didn't work. I check the battery and it was bad. Wouldn't work with new battery. I re programmed it and it works fine. Good Luck
  • granjo565granjo565 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Zabel, At last I have found another Jeep owner from Australia! I'm from Maitland, NSW.

    Here is some info regarding your a/c problem from: http://wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#HEATING

    TSB 240699A - CONDENSATION ON EXTERIOR OF HEATER HOUSING

    Date: 12/17/99

    Model year(s): 1999-2000

    Description: Condensation may form on the exterior of the heater A/C housing and drip on the floor.

    Details: This bulletin involves installing a foam insulator to the heater A/C housing.
    Installation diagram.

    Parts required:
    05015245AA Self adhesive foam

    Hope this helps! I need to replace blend doors too - did you use genuine parts or the "Heater Treater" that other people (from the US) are referring to on these forums?
  • ebef427ebef427 Member Posts: 1
    My husband and I have had problem after problem with our 2001 GC Limited. So please let me know what you hear, but we are experiencing the same problem. The Heat went out on the passenger side a couple of months ago. It would blow air, just no heat. It has finally gone out on our driver side. Making it undrivable b/c its the middle of winter ;) So I'd appreciate it!
    Thanks
    EG
  • zabelzabel Member Posts: 6
    Hi Granjo, Sorry for the late reply. That website you gave me is very helpful. Thanks very much indeed. I am not a Jeep owner actually. I am a mechainc that works on few. That particular Grand Cheerokee was a very good customer of ours.
    The blend doors were sourced 2nd hand. The particular Jeep dealership we use are limited to having correct information and are not up to scratch i feel with there parts interpreting. Good bunch of guys, but limited experience. Hence the 2nd hand parts were ordered. BIG job. But all seems good now. I actually put condensation tape on the bottom of the evaporator box and it seems to have cured the problem. Thanks for your reply. Happy to help you if i can also...
  • sdchargerssdchargers Member Posts: 1
    I have less then 500k on my car and am having some problems with the heater, and defroster. 3 times in the past week i am unable to change the temperature or the change the heater to defrost the front windshield. WHen this happens the air only blows from dash vents and not from any other location. I also cannot defrost my rear glass when this happens, or turn on the A/C. anyone know that this is?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    a job for the dealer
  • mclaxtonmclaxton Member Posts: 2
    Had same problem, went on e bay, bought heater treaters. $130 and 45 mins to install and i have my heat back. drivers side controls both sides but small price to pay. instruction and all you need were in the kit, all i needed was a dremel tool, which i had. it is scary to think you are cutting into the heater box, but it is a great remady for a totally fixable problem by jeep, if they used stronger parts this wouldnt happen to so many people. i live in california, doesent get that cold, minesotta or others forget it. hope this helps anyone. went to the snow in truck, nice and hot, in the truck :):)
  • sp6sp6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Grd Ch LTD.....great 2nd vehicle except for the excessive condensation that forms on the windows in cold weather (-5 and below).....I've had the vehicle in to the dealer several times and they've pressure tested the system and tell me it's not the heater core. You can feel the excessive humidity and there is a slight musty smell however it does not smell of anti freeze. I run the heat with the AC on and the recirc off. I returned to the dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive.....he saw the moisture start to form on the side windows and suggested the AC evaporator needs to be replaced??....he also suggested replacing the heater core at the same time just to be on the safe side.....I'm frustrated that the dealer cannot more confidently diagnose the problem. I'm looking at a hefty bill for the suggested repair (although it's cheaper than buying a new vehicle!)....anyone else had this problem?
  • tsfromtxtsfromtx Member Posts: 7
    To anybody still struggling with this issue, I just discovered (on www.wkjeeps.com) that Chrysler has issued a TSB on this problem, dated 2/5/08. Tell your service writer to reference TSB # 24-002-08. Thank goodness I don't have to go through another summer freezing, boiling, and listening to Chrysler's arrogant denials.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if drain holes in cowel are pluged and sucking moisture in through there
  • sp6sp6 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply.......this may sound like a silly question but where would I find the drain holes in the cowl? cheers
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    they are on the outer sides under the cowl
    to remove take off wiper arems remove push nuts that hold the cowl cover in place and then you can clean the drain holes
  • curlytopcurlytop Member Posts: 5
    Hi All!! :D

    I'm a newby here, but I was wondering if anyone has access to the Flate Rate times that are "supposed" to be used by Jeep dealers for repairs. I have an '01 JGC and it does need some work done to it, but the dealer has come back with an absurd estimate i.e. 1 hour labour for battery replacement, 1 hour labour for bonnet shocks, 4 hours for water pump, 1 hour for thermostat, 4 hours for engine mount and and and...

    Surely these times overlap, and are they obliged to stick to Flat Rate times for retail work as they are dealers, or can they do what they like because it is retail?

    I live in Dubai, so if the answer is "tuff [non-permissible content removed]" I wouldn't be surprised, but it would be interesting to know.

    I do also have an HVAC problem and am pretty sure that it's due to broken doors, and the dealer wants to charge 9 hours labour to investigate, but makes no promises...

    Fun stuff!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    An hour for battery replacement and an hour for the thermostat is a bit farfetched but 9 hours to investigate? I guess the real question is what are their hourly rates? Or better yet, is there anyone else there who can do the work?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • curlytopcurlytop Member Posts: 5
    I managed to get them to roll the thermostat job in with the water pump, and the battery and bonnet shocks are going in labour free - but they are soooo over on the other times, it is hardly head way. I found out that standard time to R & I (remove and install) bonnet shocks (lift supports) is actually only 0.2 hours i.e. 12 mins - so to take the piss and charge a 30mins is a rip of note. I think battery is 0.3, but that is exclusive of having the vehicle in the workshop - I think the time comes down if the vehicle is already in.

    I know they have to make money, and I can understand a formula of taking the warranty time in the Flat Rate Manual and applying 35% or whatever, but these guys just seem to be sucking it out of fresh air!!

    The hourly rates are typical dealer rates here in Dubai at AED200/hr, which is about US$55/hr. Cheaper than the UK, but technicians here aren't the same standard and neither are the supervisors - e.g. 9 hours investigation without rectification!!
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    The problem is that the A/C is blowing air that is about 50-55 degrees. We live in Florida so air conditioning is a must. I tried it on the recirculation mode and we just evacuated the refrigerant. A/C clutch is always engaged. Could it be that the dryer/accumulator has too much moistier in it and is freezing on the inside preventing the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator core. High pressure line feels warm and low pressure line feels cold, actually so cold that it occasionally forms a centimeter thick chunk of ice on it (which is odd) pressure checks out fine. Any suggestions are apresiated.
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    It's 85 outside and the A/C blew 55-58 degree air. Is this normal?
  • zabelzabel Member Posts: 6
    Hi there. Its very hard to say what the problem may be. When you say you turn the settings to recirculate, what do you mean by evacuating the refrigerant?
    Is it very Humid there in Florida? As in what percentage of humidity. I am from Australia. If you could give me a bit more info, i would be only to glad to share what info i can.
  • zabelzabel Member Posts: 6
    What was the 9 hour investigation for? You are right about the 12min to remove and install bonnet struts. I would charge 15min to 20min. Have to do job card for vehicle, drive vehicle in to shop, make phone call to order parts, write invoice for job carried out, phone customer and so on. Time all adds up. In Australia we charge $82.50 P/Hour. The mechanics/Technicians get paid between $16 and $20 P/Hour
    for a 50 Hour week. Just thought i'd throw that in. Happy to help if i can with any of your questions.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Is it very Humid there in Florida?

    I can answer that one! Yes, it is very humid in Florida. So much so that many places seem to have a perpetual musty odor about them.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    The recirculation mode recirculates the cabin air though the A/C which further cools the already cooled air, the button looks like a car with an arrow making a U shape. When you put the A/C in the regular mode, it takes the hot outside air and cools it. Evacuating the refrigerant is almost the same as flushing transmission fluid. You remove the old refrigerant while you add new refrigerant. Some days the humidity is 70% other days it can be 100%.
  • curlytopcurlytop Member Posts: 5
    Hey!! Thanks for the reply.

    I understand the time thing - especially for retail work, but my vehicle was already in for a 120K svs, that they charged US$410 for... They are a backbone dealership, so arranging parts over the phone etc is nil, as they shold hold stuff like that in stock. The job card was already made out for the service, all they had to do was add a line for defects, which they did to get the engine mounts etc changed. My point was, are they tearing the ring out of it, or is it legit, and is there an established "code of (charge) conduct" that they have to kind of abide by??

    I ask these questions here in the hope of getting balanced inputs, (agreeable or disagreeable), as there is no such thing as "Consumer Rights" in Dubai - unless you are a local Emarati and use some local clout.

    The 9 hour investigation was for them to remove the dash board and get access to the blend doors/evap unit/expansion valve... with no promise of rectification...

    And when I queried what they would do, should they find the blend doors broken, the actuators fried etc - they said they would prepare a quote to repair it (fair enough) and then order spares from the US as they aren't carried by the dealer network here... So 9 hours later, all paid for - you then get a repair bill as well!! "How long would it take if all spare were in stock??" I asked..... "About a week" was the reply...

    And they claim technician efficiency is at 120%... no wonder when they charge that kind of labour on retail work
  • curlytopcurlytop Member Posts: 5
    So in continuation with my frustrating dealings with this dealer, I took delivery of the vehicle on Thursday after control arm bushings, 2 engine mounts and a drive shaft boot were replaced as listed defects from the 120k service that had been carried out.

    They took it upon themselves to add a fluoro dye to check the a/c system for leaks, and said that they topped up the gas as it was "a bit" low. This was "just something extra" they thought they would do, as the technician said the a/c didn't feel like it was cooling properly. I had already told their Service Advisor that I had accessed the fault codes on the HVAC control panel and had got 3 codes all relating to blend door actuator faults - a common problem I have learnt recently on '01 GCL. I have never had a cooling problem on this vehicle in the 2.5 years I have had it - just airflow probs due to doors not moving correctly. The air has always been cold, but just not that much of it sometimes - other time, it's relatively OK.

    Long story short, I took the car home - parked it over the weekend, drove it to work after the weekend with no a/c - just nice hot, Dubai temperature air. Got the car home in the evening, lifted the hood and witnessed the compress short cycling - i.e. no or very little gas in the system. Took it back to Jeep - they had the car for 5 hours and in the end, said they couldn't find the leak, so they needed to remove the dash and replace the evap unit. I asked if they couldn't find the leak, how did they know it was the evap unit that failed... They said they could't find dye anywhere in the engine compartment. When I asked if they had probed the cabin vents with a sniffer they replied "We don't have one." And this is a dealership moving about 30 cars a day through their service center!!

    Longer story short, I got hold of their Service Manager and he agreed that something was a fault, they were the last to touch the working system and now it doesn't work, so they have agreed (after some badgering...) to replace the evap unit (and in the process fit the upgraded blend doors) and reassemble at parts cost plus 10% and labour free.
    It was a good outcome considering that the parts cost alone will be about US$380, and the charge if labour was billed would be US$705.

    How can a dealership carry out diagnosis without the most basic (and I think) most essential tool in dealing with a/c systems??!! It just beggars belief!!

    Any tools salesmen want to get stuck in and make a buck or two...?? ;)
  • hoozvthoozvt Member Posts: 2
    My heat and ac is just coming out of the defrost vent on top of dash ! Very little is coming out of the other vents. No matter what position i turn the control knob the ac or heat is just coming out of the top of dash/defroster vent. I WOULD LOVE TO FIX THIS ! THANKS
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    We had the same problem with our Jeep. We were able to correct the problem by turning the selector switch in all directions or litely hitting the switch. The problem eventually went away. Hope this helps.
  • hoozvthoozvt Member Posts: 2
    I will give this a try ! THANKS FOR YOR HELP !!
  • rexiebrexieb Member Posts: 1
    My radiator was leaking, so added a stop leak, topped off with water, then added coolant to that container. Now my AC and Heat will not turn on. Plus the transmission feels like it is slipping and the brakes (without warning) became so stiff that it takes a lot of foot pressure to stop. Can anyone give me a clue as to what is going on?
    Thanx
  • khc1khc1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a new 2007 Grand Cherokee Ltd 4wd. My A/C works horribly. I had a 2004 GC prev and have had many other cars and rent many cars and this has been the worst ac performance I have ever had. Brought back to dealer who said it was perfectly in spec. Has anyone had any problems like this?
    Thanks,
  • sparrysparry Member Posts: 1
    had the following rapairs done to y 2001 jeep g/c limited : reinstalled dash and repl aced evap doors ---housing(?) ----housing air recirculator---a/c actuator

    cost was high and this past weekend was the first time I used the a/c since the rapairs ----driver side only cool air passenger side warm air ---nice since it was a record breaking weekend for heat in L A this past weekend ---- dealer is playing dumb any advice
  • ellachellach Member Posts: 8
    Hi
    Can anyone tell me is there a socket to plug in trailer electrics on my 2003 JGC Deisel ?
    Regards Kevan UK
  • sneallsneall Member Posts: 3
    Hey Hoozvt, I own a 02 grand cherokee lerado and i have the same exact problem your talking about. I do not have a fix but have been trying to figure out the problem myself. If you find out anything could you please let me know. thanks
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