Nissan Versa Engine Problems
Hello,
I just purchase a 2007 Nissan Versa in October at 400 miles I started hearing a noise from the engine when the car is idle in gear stopped and the brake is applied. From inside the car is sounds like a constant rattle. I took it to the dealership and they can't figure out what the problem is because this is all new to them. Is anyone else having this problem?????? It's almost like something is loose and when the engine vibrates it's making the rattle it can get very loud a times. It's now at 4000 miles and they still can't figure it out.... Anyone else across the country having or had the same problem?
I just purchase a 2007 Nissan Versa in October at 400 miles I started hearing a noise from the engine when the car is idle in gear stopped and the brake is applied. From inside the car is sounds like a constant rattle. I took it to the dealership and they can't figure out what the problem is because this is all new to them. Is anyone else having this problem?????? It's almost like something is loose and when the engine vibrates it's making the rattle it can get very loud a times. It's now at 4000 miles and they still can't figure it out.... Anyone else across the country having or had the same problem?
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Apparently when there is a problem that could damage the engine the light comes on and stops the car from going any faster than 20 KM. Their computer check indicated a problem with the throttle. They checked the throttle and it was fine. They cleaned off some throttle connecters and it began to work fine. They do not know what was definitely wrong but suspect it had something to do with the cold weather.
So, whether it was actually cleaning the connection that helped or having the car in a warm building for 1 hour that fixed the problem they do not know.
If it was the cold weather causing the problem I'll not be happy. I live where it is cold 5 nonths of the year and I bought a new car to make sure I had a reliable vehicle. Has anyone else had this happen?
1. Why was the seller getting rid of the car (i.e. accident, drove it crazily.
2. Maybe the clutch has been worn down, mostly because the rattling could be the clutch hitting the transmission, or could be the engine connection (the power convertor) loose because of an accident. Either way, take it to the dealership and ask them to take a look at the frame and the clutch.
Thanks,
Stacy
Nissan should never have been allowed to sneak Renaults :lemon: back into our country.
Next time remember...
Recently did a trip to Colorado and back on 80. Could have gotten killed, washers barely worked. I filled with the good to 20 bellow washer fluid I use in other vehicles and dealer says that will still freeze. Right now their attitude seems to be, too bad its not a good design and I guess the washers won't work when its cold out. Has anyone else had this problem? This is a real safety hazard. If this is the best they can do I want to get rid of the car. :sick:
I wanted to give everyone an update. The car went back to the dealership again! They can't fix it. They have tried.. They are calling in a Nissan Field Engineer now from the New England Area... The gave the Engineers measurements over the phone. The noise is now happening again when the car is warm. Stop at a light, press the brake and push the window button and the noise starts up.! Hate this! They are calling me tomorrow to schedule for me to bring it back again... When the Engineer is coming to RI. I will keep everyone posted. Wish me luck! I just want the noise to go away!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am a (used to be happy) owner of a 2007 Nissan Versa. I bought the car in November 2006 and now it has 6500 km on its odometer.
About a week ago it started to having problem with the engine start. Sometimes (not always!) I have to crank the engine for a minute or so to get it started. And sometimes it just starts instantly! The problem happens on a cold or hot a engine - does not matter. Sometimes the engine starts with no problem whatsoever at -20 C, sometimes (like today) I had to jump-start it because I had killed the battery after a couple of minutes of cranking.
Today I went for a first service (oil change) and told the dealership about the problem. They tried to help, but at this particular time the engine was starting with no indication of any problems.
They run a full diagnostic on the car and came up with nothing. They called Nissan Help Line and got no information about the issue. But they told me that now on the Nissan has opened a "file" on my car and they want me to gather the statistic data when and how often the engine is failing to start. Well, I am not too happy about that task, but looks like I have to do this if I want my car fixed.
I run a search on the Internet and found a few complain about the similar problem. On this particular forum here http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f111cd4 cathy8 is describing something similar.
Why am I created this topic? I want to gather information from other people. If somebody has similar experience, please tell your story. Especially if you know fix for the problem. I am not trying to blame Nissan ([non-permissible content removed] happens). My goal is to help them (Nissan) to fix my car.
I will appreciate any feedback!
Andrew.
P.S. English is my third language, so please be tolerant.
It's going back tonight 2/19.. The Nissan Field Engineer is coming to the dealership tomorrow.. Oh.. Please I hope he finds the problem. The engine noise is back again when the car is warm. Car is stopped at a light and the brake is applied. The Engine light is back on again!!! It came back on two days ago.. I will keep everyone posted... This is hell!
Next time you are out, go to Walmart and get a bottle of Prestone windshield washer fluid additive. It's a clear bottle with clear liquid that you add to the washer fluid to prevent freezing. I would add this once the car is warmed up and the fluid is not frozen. It cost about $1.89 for a 16 oz. bottle.
It's basically the same stuff they add to the washer fluid to make it "winter mix" but concentrated. Works great. I would get a couple of bottles to have on hand for future use.
I wanted to give everyone and update. The Nissan Field Engineer came out and found the bracket was not secured to the car the bracket to the Steel Evap System lines were not installed correctly causing the vibration. So far so good.... No NOISE!!! Hurray! The engineer fixed it. Great job! Nissan. I guess the robot at the factory was tired. I am just glad it got fixed after 9 times to the dealership. I had a lemon law attorney lined up to go if they could fix it this last time. Hurray and thank you to the Nissan Engineer. Great Job! Thanks everyone. I hope my story helps anyone else who is having a Vibration for the engine.
automatic/base model. 90 stalled at 7K miles, and they reset the timing, replaced the plugs, and that was it.
97, 65K, refused to start.... was told ignition coil issues, starter needed a rebuild, and all due to timing chain slipping a notch... off set timing, thus messing up other items over a few months time(made it difficult to notice, except a few times it was difficult to start up, and it's cold here in the Midwest in late Nov..).
Over 1K in cost.
Anyhow, I test drove an SL Versa hatch... CVT... and really liked it, alot.
Now, though, with all of these stories of car not starting unless one shakes it, or 9 times to a dealership to get a fix...
has Nissan really changed much since out 97 200sx issues?
I really like the Versa I drove, but... these stories give me pause, and make me reconsider giving Nissan a 2nd chance.
The most wild thing I heard here is the car having issues with warm starts, due to ethanol, etc...
maybe they will fix this for 08?
This is a unique complaint(first time I have heard of it, from any maker).
Hoping to hear better news before I decide what to buy next time!
I've been driving for about 18 years now, so I *think* I have this whole "starting the car" thing down, but for some reason this car's ignition is fickle. Either that or I'm doing something wrong.
Sometimes it starts fine and others, it takes me several tries for it to start. There is no sound, the "idiot" lights engage, but the car just does not start. I was trying to start it with the doors open (kids don't like climbing into a hot car), and thought maybe that was the problem. No. Do I need to depress the brake? No. I tried stopping on "on" for a second instead of just cranking it over. Again, no sound emanates from the engine. Just like when you try to start your car when it's not in park (yes I have done that, many years ago in college. That AAA guy was VERY understanding!).
Am I the only one with this issue? I feel stupid, like I'm missing a step? SOMETHING??
PLEASE, shed some light on this for me! :confuse:
http://www.clarionledger.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070525/BIZ/705250348/1005
Drivers of some Nissan and Infiniti vehicles are finding their "intelligent keys" and cell phones just don't mix.
An incoming call can erase an electronic key fobs' programming, rendering some 2007 Nissan Altimas or 2007 Infiniti G35 sedans immobile.
Nissan North America is telling owners to keep their phones and fobs at least one inch apart at all times. The plastic keys use radio technology called near-field communication, which allows a driver to unlock and start the car while the fob is in a purse or pocket.
Nissan says some cell phones, if touching the key while sending or receiving a call, may alter the key's electronic code. When that happens, the key cannot be reprogrammed.
It's weird, but it seems to be more prevalent when the car has been sitting out in the sun for a long period of time.
Taking it to the dealer tomorrow. The car is brand new and I'm going to be a little upset if it's the starter already. Hopefully it's just a wiring issues.
My husband checked under the hood and noticed the cover over the battery "bolts" (for lack of better term) was not on snuggly?
Thanks again!
The Versa's not completely new. It's uses a Renault platform that's been out for a few years. The engines new but the Japanese have been building 1.8 four bangers for decades with few problems so it's not like they need to re-invent something.
The rest of the vehicle is new and that's where the problems seem to be. These problems can be fixed on the fly so outside of a major inconvenience for a few unlucky owners, the rest of us should be good to go. Folks who buy the first several thousand of any vehicle should get rebates for being beta testers. If a new problem crops up, ya get it fixed and a check for your time. Ain't gonna happen but I like the idea.
David
My invoice states that "ignition relay in IPDM E/R was not fully seated." They fully seated it.
Then it says "Found intermittent NATS malfunction code P1615. Replaced BCM, reprogrammed keys."
I don't know if that last bit has anything to do with the first bit, but there you go.
oh--parts--FP number 284B1, controller assy (if that is any help)
I also had a bad battery which they replaced at the same time.
Car worked fine after that, but now I have noticed that you have to crank it just a little harder than usual to get it to start. Might this just be related to usual wear?? I'm going to ask them next time I go in for an oil change.
Are your problems like "have to crank it to start" problems or something else?
Not quite. The Versa, or Tiida in many parts of the world, was first released in September 2004. It's only a new model in North America.
What's new is the assembly line for the Versa in Mexico. The plant has been there awhile, but the line is new.
David
I guess I never responded to this message from February 2007, My cars problem is that after driving my Versa and then parking it, the car won't easily start occasionally. The engine won't turn over without trying for five minutes or so. I have had no problems like this since going to only ethanol free gas. My car was checked out recently and they found no problems. The manual mentions that you can try up to 10 percent ethanol but if it has a problem with "warm starts" (car engine has been recently used and is still warm but it won't easily start) then go back to regular gas. This is exactly what happens to me with ethanol in the tank. Nobody else has experienced this??? Obviously, Nissan technicians are familiar with this problem. I wonder why I am the only one who seems to experience this?
TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS, THIS IS THE PROCEDURE.
1) DRAIN COOLANT. YES DRAIN THE COOLANT.
2) TAKE OFF THE ENGINE COVER.
3) TAKE OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. YES THATS CORRECT
4) TAKE OFF THE COIL.
5) CHANGE PLUGS AND REASSEMBLE. WHEW
BY THE WAY PLUGS ARE GOOD FOR 105,000 MILES.
HAS ANYONE MADE THE CHANGE YET?
I WAS GOING TO US THE THE NEW PULSTAR PLUGS WITH 1,000,OOO WATTS.NORMAL PLUGS ARE ABOUT 50 WATTS.
I ALSO HEAR THAT CHANGING A HEADLIGHT BULB IS A DIFFICULT CHORE.
I recently had a wheel bearing replaced on an Altima, and the new bearing completely failed inside of 90 days under normal driving conditions. Bad part so it was replaced, but if the replacement fails, I'd have to start looking elsewhere for the cause.
Even if I assume the parts are ROTTEN and fail 5% of the time (a ridiculously high figure, but it will illustrate my point), if I put a second part in and it also fails or doesn't correct the problem, the chances of me having gotten two bad parts in a row is down to one quarter of one percent. (0.25%) Something else HAS to be causing the problem. Throwing another of the same part at it isn't likely to solve things in my view.
The fuel pump would have been the easy fix, if it had worked. Just like putting more air in a low tire is the first, easy try. Then the tire goes low again and you check for leaks in the tire, or the valve stem, or at the seal to the rim. Sounds like some more detective work is going to be needed.
I took the vehicle back to the dealership twice for service so far. The first time they said that they found that the negative battery terminal was loose, and this was causing the problem. They tightened it and said it should be fine. The problem then happened again the next day (and again about 5 or six times over the course of the following week). When I brought it in again, they said that they were unable to duplicate the problem and thus could not do anything about it. I left the vehicle there for three days, and finally Nissan Technical Services instructed them to order a fuel pump to see if that resolves the issue. It has been three weeks now, and I'm still waiting on the fuel pump...
The worst part of this (besides having such problems with a new car) is that the service technician had a "there's nothing we can do" attitude about it. He said that it was the first that he had heard of the problem and seemed like he did not believe that it was occurring because he could not duplicate it. I located various accounts on the Internet of other Versa owners with similar problems, and I printed and brought them to the dealership. The service tech then said that they were not helpful because they only mentioned problems, not solutions. As ridiculous as this is, I have actually started filming the process of starting my car to document the problem.
I have submitted a complaint through the website for the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Office of Defects Investigation: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
I recommend that anyone else experiencing problems with their new Versas do the same. If they receive enough complaints, maybe Nissan will start giving a crap. I should have bought the Honda fit. :lemon:
Just this afternoon, I discovered that I cannot go above a certain speed. I could press hard on the gas pedal (even floor it), but once it reaches a certain speed, all I hear is increased engine(?)/rev(?) noise but I don't get an increase in car speed. The RPM gauge seems also to waver around "2"... never really going above it even I press harder on the pedal. The needle sometimes even dips slightly when I'm pressing on the pedal.
Is there something wrong with my car (S, manual, ABS)? Bought it less than a month ago with only 300 miles on it. No CVT.
Thanks so much for responding~
P.S. Is the RPM gauge supposed to be around "1" even when the car's not moving, e.g., in front of a red light? It doesn't go back down to "O" unless I turn off the engine.
P.S.S. I apologize for my limited vocab on these things. First-time driver. =)
P.S.S.S. I tried switching it to "Neutral" and flooring it, and then back to "Drive" in an attempt to fix it. No can do.
Anything above and I hear a loud spinning/whirring sound, but the car barely moves faster.