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Comments
I have a 1992 Legacy, this past winter (in northern MN) it was pretty rough and the battery went out, along w/ a mouse getting into my air filter. wouldn't start for a number of months (tried jumping it, tried engine block heater overnight followed by a jump, tried to jump on a warm day). finally when spring came and things have thawed, i was able to get it jumped (plus had to pump the gas a few times to get it running) and it was barely running so went to get the battery replaced. new interstate MT battery, plus new air filter and had the oil checked and changed because the light came on when driving to the shop (about 8 blocks).
everything was fine driving in town etc, no lights or anything, until today drove about 250 miles. first time i stopped to get gas (after 100 miles) the oil light came on while i was stopping. i checked it right away, was full, checked it a second time about 15 min later, still F. started it again and the light went off
drove another 120 miles, decided to stop for gas again, again as i stopped the light came on. checked the oil again, was still fine, started driving again.
this time after 30 min or so the light came on and was fading in and about for about my last 10 miles or so. no bad sounds from the engine and the level seems fine, i plan on checking it in the morning when it's cold, but if it has plenty of oil should i still be concerned?
-mike
-awrench
-mike
1) when I am driving, it over heats if I am doing less than 50mph.
2) I have periodically pulled over while over heating and sometimes the radiator fan is not running
3) it will spike on occasion and then level off at about half way. If doing over 50.
4)Over heats while sitting in traffic.
It has 105,000 miles. The coolant level is good.
I am thinking its the coolant fan inter connect, heat sensor for the radiator fan, or the water pump... any thoughts?
-mike
I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy 2l with about 180k miles on it. It has been slightly undermaintained, and recently went into the shop with a leaking water hose, having had overheating and the engine mis-behaving - losing power erratically under acceleration. The shop checked for a blown head gasket and found this was not the problem, replaced the hose and did an oil change and gave it back to me with the air intake hose not re-tightened, so I quickly noticed a problem and took it back - they tightened this up and sent me on my way. I was still getting this problem with the dead spot so I took it back and they checked the computer codes (finding 23 and 32, oxygen sensor and air flow meter I think). They put a different air flow meter on it and sent me on my way again. Still not fixed, I took it back and they got an electrician to test both air flow meters - they both had problems, so one was overhauled and put in the car. Now the problem was improved, but not fixed. Which is where we are now.
Current state is that the car runs fine, at normal temperatures. However, at operating temperature (and not while it is heating up) when you go to accelerate it has a spot between 2000 and 2500rpm where the engine stutters, if you use more than about 1/3rd throttle. As soon as you get over 2500rpm, it runs fine. It still has error codes 23 and 32.
Anyone have any suggestions on what the problem might be? The shop is stumped, and have told me to take it back again later in the week so they can poke around a bit more... I am getting very concerned - from the start I told them if it was going to be too expensive it was close to the point where I might as well get a new car and the bills keep adding up. Each time has been more $s with the promise of "this will fix it".
Mechanic says it's the headgasket. Help
Initial report of this to S.O.A. produced a case# but 2nd and 3rd follow up reports have not been answered.
Mechanic says it's the headgasket. Help
Sounds like water pump actually.
Is the radiator ice-cold when this happens?
-mike
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Brad
-mike
-mike
If the timing belt were to fail, is the Boxer Engine in the 2.5i model (170 hp H4 Boxer), is the engine interference, or non-interference?
In other words, some engines just fail with no damage to protect the engine when the belt breaks, but if it's like my Civic, a failed timing belt would mean bent pistons and rods. Which would ruin my day.
The good news, though, is that the interval for timing belt changes is 105,000 miles.
So you may not have to change it, unless you keep it longer than that.
-mike
Any help would be great.
I have a 2003. Bought it new. I think this knock you describe is inherient to the engine. Mine sounds like a diesel in the winter when cold. Once the engine warms, it goes away.
Now, after its warm, if I run 87 octane in it, the valves ping when the auto tranny is lugging the engine. If I run 91 or 93 octane, I don't get the valve ping.
I've got 60k on mine now, so, its probably ok.
Only had to have the headgasket repaired at 40k due to leak. Otherwise, no warranty work.
Mark
2003 Subaru Legacy L (spec edt)
I took it to my mechanic and he said that not only was the harmonic balancer loose on the crankshaft and that may be contributing to the problem, BUT, that the car could not maintain a consistent vacuum...therefore, the info going into the computer was not good and it would probably require a valve job.
I was surprised with this diagnosis, but its the only one I've got. Is there anything else I can check? Is this expected with only this many miles on this model?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Being so happy with it, in 2005 I bought a 2000 Legacy for $6,800, it had 92K miles on it. Since then I had only cried over it.... I already described my ordeal here.
On the day I sold my old Subaru, the "new" one lost its engine and head gaskets. I sold the wrong car!!!
$3,000 for headgaskets and a new engine, $800 for burnt coil, bunch of other stuff that actually broke and maintenance items (such as water pump and a timing belt) that added up to over $5,000 in 18 months of my owning that piece of $%^&. Sorry. I could have bought a brand new car for that money!!!!!
I now own a 2005 Mitsu Outlander and I couldn't be happier. And, if you read the reviews, Mitsu cars have way less problems.
All cars from all manufacturers breakdown, be them Toyota, Honda, MB, BMW, Lexus, or Mitsu.
To the Original Poster:
If the head gasket hasn't been done on an 96-02 2.5L Subie, you should probably work in about $1,500 worth of "I'm gonna need to do the Head Gasket and associated maintenance items" when negotiating a used car. The associated things would be the timing belt, water pump etc. since the engine will be nearly torn down anyway to do the HG.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
The ignition coil is an $80 part. Two bolts to remove and replace, and it's right at the top/front of the engine. It takes about - 90 seconds to replace.
How did that get to $800?
It should be $80 plus half hour labor at the very most, so I don't see how you get to $800 from there.
Sounds more like you need to replace your mechanic.
Having said that, gaskets are indeed a concern. Check for leaks there and on the valve covers, and the front and rear main seals. Also listen to the wheel bearings, if they're noisy they're probably gone.
If it's leak-free and quiet you're probably good for quite a while. I've seen 2 Foresters go over 250,000 miles.
After my Subaru problems I searched the internet (and this site too) and saw many engine problems reported for Subarus, and not just the headgaskets.
We were ready for the headgaskets when we bought the Legacy, but we weren't ready for the warped engine without it ever overheating or headgaskets actually blowing up on us. So there - put away about $3,000 just in case.
I did look at the Mitsu reliability ratings - way better than Subarus.
We already replaced the dealer, needless to say...
I own an '03 Legacy ("non-Outback" , non-turbo year) 2.5 GT wagon / 5-spd manual. I love the car as a driver. Mechanically, though, I disagree with some of the reliability reports I've read. My head gaskets began leaking early in the year. They were replaced by my mechanic whom I consider to be quite competent - he's been working on my cars for 15 years or so. He advised me that Subaru is on the 6th or 7th iteration of the head gasket. This implies to me that they have been unsuccessful in resolving this expensive, recurring issue. In following Consumer Reports reliability ratings(which I have increasing unwillingness to honor), the black dots in the engine category are lag three to four years from current. I suspect this largely to be due to the head gasket issue. I would expect this problem to persist in all Legacy models going into the future, and to see it reflected in this pattern. Therefore,
1. Be cautious about purchasing a used model. I don't recommend buying a
used model unless all maintenance records (as best as can be taken) accom-
pany the vehicle.
2. Always have the mechanic scrutinize the engine for signs of head gasket
leaks at every oil change.
So far, I've had no repurcussions. My mechanic told me that this was caught relatively early and that he saw no damage to the block. But I will probably remain a little uncomfortable as long as I own the car that I may eventually experience some additional problems related to this issue in the future. I read a mechanic's blog from a known dealer in the Seattle area who seemed to want to put the truth out there. He claimed that, of the head gaskets he's replaced with no damage to the block, no further issues usually occur. Of course that's one opinion of many.
One last comment, to agree with Paisan above. My mechanic has reported that he believes that he's seeing more issues in general with all Japanese makes. Now they may occuring more or less depending upon the brand, but even Toyota and Honda are seeing issues like this because all of the Asian brands (including Korean) sold in this country use Aluminum Blocks. Aluminum flexes more than does cast iron from heat. This means that states in warmer climates are probably more condusive to heat-related engine issues (I live in the Atlanta area). Be aware of that. But Subaru's, I think, are still pretty good cars. They ride pretty well; handle pretty well; are among the safer models on the roads; and, with proper maintenance, will still probably serve well for a number of years (hopefully!). Good luck to you.
No matter what model you buy, you're gonna have to maintain it.
Why bash Subaru for being nothing more than a Car that from time to time, needs work on it.
If you buy any make of Car with 100k+ Miles on it, get ready to start fixing it, that's why the Person is selling it...
To purchase a Subaru with over 100k Miles on it then come on to a forum and tell People not to buy a Subaru because yours broke down is a little odd in my Book.
Good because they were far from honest with you. I've changed a coil myself, it's a piece of cake, and cost me $79 shipped.
Re: MY08, 2.5 manual
I am having trouble with Subaru over a few issues. Any ideas or fixes?
Subaru claim this is all normal and intentional, and cannot help.
ONE
After a normal cold start, I try to back out the driveway (with minimal-no throttle) and the car starts revving on its own, in the range 2000-3200 rpm. Lucky I dont keep letting the clutch out with brake off! It usually cycles down, back up, and down again. I have posted some clips on utube.
Subaru say: "normal operational characteristic. This warm-up cycle is normal to see in this model and indicates a safe and optimal warm-up for your vehicle's engine. Rest assured there is no "undue wear" caused by this operation."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im3t0CQ0nvM>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzWk1QXJzJU>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0JM8Fs37WU>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSgVmrOrvdg>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1Mnx-EMrlQ>>
TWO
There is no fine throttle control possible.. Its fly by wire I think, and its either on or off.. there is no feathering of the throttle possible. Try going down hill, or doing a hill start, or crawling in traffic, or even a normal start in first gear. Its terrible.
Subaru say: "your concerns pertaining to "poor throttle control" are, in fact, normal to see and are indeed characteristics of operation"
THREE
When upshifting, the revs maintain for a moment even with no throttle. I bought a manual to have full control. Not to have it taken away. Not happy Jan.
Subaru say: "feature found in Subaru vehicles which assists in gear changes, ensuring minimal wear to clutch components and smoother gear transition. We do not consider this normal operation to be a safety risk, rather, a beneficial feature designed with longevity in mind."
FOUR
Try double-clutch and rev while down changing. It really consfuses things. The car starts revving just as you get into the lower gear when you want slowing, and then realises theres no throttle and backs off.
Subaru say in conclusion: we believe your vehicle to be operating to manufacturer's specifications
Second concern - I did not experience this and do not recall if MY07, for North America at least, had drive by wire or not. I found throttle control on the car very responsive, though the clutch itself was quite touchy.
Third concern - I also did not experience this problem. I have a 1998 Ford Escort with a manual, though, and it does do this. I hate it, so I see your point!
Four - never tried it, so cannot comment.
I have a friend who currently owns a MY08 Impreza manual, so I will ask him about this things and get his input. I rode in the car a few times and did not notice any of the anomalies you addressed, but I suspect the revving while cold is the only one I would readily notice as a passenger.
I think that's throttle-by-wire so ask the dealer if they can re-program it, maybe? Our 2002 was not by-wire.
Just another Subaru quirk.
I hope this helps.
Len
I need your help,im looking to buy a used 2001 outback limited (2.5 engine) with 41,000 miles on it this week.I've done some researched on the vehicle and found out alot of people have problems with the Head Gasket going out? Anyone had any problems with this on their 2001 Outback? Please share i need to know quickly..i put deposit for the vehicle...Thanks