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Subaru Legacy/Outback Engine Issues

124

Comments

  • contentpenscontentpens Member Posts: 1
    I have a related question -

    I have a 1992 Legacy, this past winter (in northern MN) it was pretty rough and the battery went out, along w/ a mouse getting into my air filter. wouldn't start for a number of months (tried jumping it, tried engine block heater overnight followed by a jump, tried to jump on a warm day). finally when spring came and things have thawed, i was able to get it jumped (plus had to pump the gas a few times to get it running) and it was barely running so went to get the battery replaced. new interstate MT battery, plus new air filter and had the oil checked and changed because the light came on when driving to the shop (about 8 blocks).

    everything was fine driving in town etc, no lights or anything, until today drove about 250 miles. first time i stopped to get gas (after 100 miles) the oil light came on while i was stopping. i checked it right away, was full, checked it a second time about 15 min later, still F. started it again and the light went off

    drove another 120 miles, decided to stop for gas again, again as i stopped the light came on. checked the oil again, was still fine, started driving again.

    this time after 30 min or so the light came on and was fading in and about for about my last 10 miles or so. no bad sounds from the engine and the level seems fine, i plan on checking it in the morning when it's cold, but if it has plenty of oil should i still be concerned?
  • triniluvtriniluv Member Posts: 3
    hey grumpy i have a 2000 legacy outback with 71,000 on it i was wondering if u had similar problems like i have now eg. overheating rough idle hesitation. i took it to a mechanic an i have low compression in cyl #2 he is advising me 2 change the engine. any advise i will really appreciate it wanna know it what u did would help me thank,s triniluv
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Most likely head gasket.
  • geoguy09geoguy09 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1995 Legacy AWD with 2.2L engine & 5spd. It has 167,000 miles on it the previous owner reported always using conventional oil. I had used 10W30 synthetic on my previous car that had 279K on it when I drove it to the auto wrecker today. I would like to use synthetic on the Legacy but am not sure what weight to buy or if it is not recommended. Can offer some suggestions, as this car did not come with the owner's manual, thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    With a car of that age and that many miles I would stick with 5w-30 or 10w-30 or even 10w-40 in non synthetic format since you can actually cause leaks by changing so late in the game.

    -mike
  • andytiborandytibor Member Posts: 1
    2003 Subaru Outback power steering keep getting tight to a point my wife cant drive it. we previously replaced hoses which was frayed on the inside. we just flushed out system again
  • awrenchawrench Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Suburu Legacy Outback. Due to age and usage 250000+ I had to replace the engine in 2005. Last year the transmission died. I had it removed and replaced. Recently, after changing my oil from regular to sythetic oil a ticking sound appeared somewhere inside and around the bell housing. I changed back to regular oil and the ticking remains. The ticking grows louder and faster only during acceleration between 2000-2500 (from stand still). It also appears when I rev the engine during idle and while the A/C is on. I checked and replaced spark-plugs, replaced spark plug wires, replaced coil pack, checked wiring, and the ticking remains. I've taken it to a local Suburu Dealership who said it may be a flywheel or torque converter? They said it would take some time and labor to reach the root cause of the ticking. My transmission is still under warranty but the auto shop warned it may not be a transmission issue. My question is whether anyone has heard of a similar sound and what to do? Also, whether I should use the warranty playing card to do exploratory surgery on my Suburu to find this recent annoying ticking sound.
    -awrench
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like a torque converter or flywheel issue to me.

    -mike
  • carpediem833carpediem833 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, so, I am no gear head by any means... But I have a 2000 legacy sedan. It has been over heating as of late. I replaced the thermostat, but it is still overheating. One garage says they think its the head gasket... Here are my symptoms...

    1) when I am driving, it over heats if I am doing less than 50mph.
    2) I have periodically pulled over while over heating and sometimes the radiator fan is not running
    3) it will spike on occasion and then level off at about half way. If doing over 50.
    4)Over heats while sitting in traffic.

    It has 105,000 miles. The coolant level is good.

    I am thinking its the coolant fan inter connect, heat sensor for the radiator fan, or the water pump... any thoughts?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would suspect the Fan or associated Fan sensor, or the water pump. If it were the HG you'd see coolant in the oil and/or oil in the coolant.

    -mike
  • integersmirkintegersmirk Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy 2l with about 180k miles on it. It has been slightly undermaintained, and recently went into the shop with a leaking water hose, having had overheating and the engine mis-behaving - losing power erratically under acceleration. The shop checked for a blown head gasket and found this was not the problem, replaced the hose and did an oil change and gave it back to me with the air intake hose not re-tightened, so I quickly noticed a problem and took it back - they tightened this up and sent me on my way. I was still getting this problem with the dead spot so I took it back and they checked the computer codes (finding 23 and 32, oxygen sensor and air flow meter I think). They put a different air flow meter on it and sent me on my way again. Still not fixed, I took it back and they got an electrician to test both air flow meters - they both had problems, so one was overhauled and put in the car. Now the problem was improved, but not fixed. Which is where we are now.

    Current state is that the car runs fine, at normal temperatures. However, at operating temperature (and not while it is heating up) when you go to accelerate it has a spot between 2000 and 2500rpm where the engine stutters, if you use more than about 1/3rd throttle. As soon as you get over 2500rpm, it runs fine. It still has error codes 23 and 32.

    Anyone have any suggestions on what the problem might be? The shop is stumped, and have told me to take it back again later in the week so they can poke around a bit more... I am getting very concerned - from the start I told them if it was going to be too expensive it was close to the point where I might as well get a new car and the bills keep adding up. Each time has been more $s with the promise of "this will fix it".
  • gindamaligindamali Member Posts: 1
    1st the heat went; I put in a new thermostat. Temp gauge goes to High in 50 yrds,there's heat only sometimes. There is no steam coming out the tailpipe/ no water in the oil .
    Mechanic says it's the headgasket. Help
  • charliebobcharliebob Member Posts: 2
    Our 2003 Outback engine pings. Local dealer had car for 2 weeks and was unable to solve this problem. EGR valve replaced, knock sensor tested and found to be OK, plugs looked at, no fluids leaking, gas tank drained. Fresh gas put in tank and it still pinged. Problem really is noticeable when engine heats up now in springtime whereas it was not too noticeable during the winter with the windows rolled up. Any suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sadly I think the mechanic is right.
  • charliebobcharliebob Member Posts: 2
    I neglected to mention in 1st post that the engine has 40K miles on it. I use name brand regular fuel and upon moving up to the next octane level(89), it still pings.
    Initial report of this to S.O.A. produced a case# but 2nd and 3rd follow up reports have not been answered.
  • pneugpneug Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the timing belt and the LH and RH camshafts were turned. I want to be sure all is in order prior to cranking. Any ideas?
  • pneugpneug Member Posts: 2
    I have a compression gage and noticed the # 1 and #2 cylinders are not hitting at the same time. The #2 is compressing 180 degrees out as we manualy rotated the crankshaft. The firing order is 1,3,2,4 so the #1 and #2 should be compressing at the same time, right? If this is true then how do I make it so?
  • wyomr2wyomr2 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 95 Legacy with the 2.2 engine and 175k miles. In the last 3-4 weeks it started making a ticking sound which has turned into more of a knocking sound. This only happens under load starting around 2500 RPM until around 4000 RPM. I took it to two different mechanics. The first thought it was just a stuck lifter and did an oil change and added some Sea Foam, which has made no difference. The next mechanic looked it over and said he though that the wrist pins are starting to go. Has anybody had similar problems with this engine. I've never really heard of anyone else having this problem?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    1st the heat went; I put in a new thermostat. Temp gauge goes to High in 50 yrds,there's heat only sometimes. There is no steam coming out the tailpipe/ no water in the oil .
    Mechanic says it's the headgasket. Help


    Sounds like water pump actually.

    Is the radiator ice-cold when this happens?

    -mike
  • bones238bones238 Member Posts: 2
    Car has new radiator and antifreese. I can be traveling down the roar and with in one mile the temp will shoot up to "H". Back off gas pedal and the car will cool down.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance

    Brad
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Was the radiator put in recently? Is the coolant in the radiator ice cold when this happens (more importantly the upper radiator hose)? It could be an air-bubble in the top of the engine/radiator or it could be a water-pump.

    -mike
  • ben5536ben5536 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, I have a 96 outback automatic. I need to order head gaskets and can't figure out what model engine it has. Any ideas as to where to look?.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Should be the DOHC 2.5L engine.

    -mike
  • ben5536ben5536 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you Mike. Is it cast on the motor anywhere?
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Hey, Question regarding the timing belt used in the 2008 Legacy.

    If the timing belt were to fail, is the Boxer Engine in the 2.5i model (170 hp H4 Boxer), is the engine interference, or non-interference?

    In other words, some engines just fail with no damage to protect the engine when the belt breaks, but if it's like my Civic, a failed timing belt would mean bent pistons and rods. Which would ruin my day.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Interference.

    The good news, though, is that the interval for timing belt changes is 105,000 miles.

    So you may not have to change it, unless you keep it longer than that.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Should have a plate that says EJXXXXXXXXXX on it.

    -mike
  • dgarleppdgarlepp Member Posts: 4
    The car starts and runs for 15 seconds and stalls. If the car sits for a while it will start and then stall again. Do you think it's the fuel pump?
    Any help would be great.
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    Charliebob,

    I have a 2003. Bought it new. I think this knock you describe is inherient to the engine. Mine sounds like a diesel in the winter when cold. Once the engine warms, it goes away.
    Now, after its warm, if I run 87 octane in it, the valves ping when the auto tranny is lugging the engine. If I run 91 or 93 octane, I don't get the valve ping.
    I've got 60k on mine now, so, its probably ok.
    Only had to have the headgasket repaired at 40k due to leak. Otherwise, no warranty work.

    Mark
    2003 Subaru Legacy L (spec edt)
  • paintedwagonpaintedwagon Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Outback has 122,000 miles and has run pretty good, but in the last six months, it has serious hesitation problems when starting off from a dead stop. At times, you wonder if it will make it. (It acts like the old carburetor engines that load up with gasoline...then take off as if nothing had happened.) Once you get going, the car runs pretty good, but taking off is a hazard.
    I took it to my mechanic and he said that not only was the harmonic balancer loose on the crankshaft and that may be contributing to the problem, BUT, that the car could not maintain a consistent vacuum...therefore, the info going into the computer was not good and it would probably require a valve job.
    I was surprised with this diagnosis, but its the only one I've got. Is there anything else I can check? Is this expected with only this many miles on this model?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Check all the vaccum lines. There are probably a bunch and it's at the age where those vaccum lines will start to crack.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • newtosubarunewtosubaru Member Posts: 4
    Hey everyone. I am thinking about buying a '97 Legacy Outback and I have some questions. This being the first time I've ventured outside of buying a GM product. The Outback has 106,000 miles, it's a 5 spd manual, pwer locks and windows...I have been researching this model year and have noticed numerous problems. Head gaskets, front main seals, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, burnt valves. I have also read that the timing belt should be changed at 100,000 miles, and also have a valve adjustment done? Basically I don't want to buy a car and then have it break down with all of these issues. Is the H4 a difficult engine to work on? (I guess it depends on the problem too) The dealership (it's a Subaru dealership) wants $5500 for the car. I don't think that's a bad price, but I could be wrong. Thanks for your help!
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    don't get a Subaru. I first owned a 1993 Loyale, and it was the best car ever. It just didn't break, and then I sold it at 150K miles (14 years old).
    Being so happy with it, in 2005 I bought a 2000 Legacy for $6,800, it had 92K miles on it. Since then I had only cried over it.... I already described my ordeal here.

    On the day I sold my old Subaru, the "new" one lost its engine and head gaskets. I sold the wrong car!!!

    $3,000 for headgaskets and a new engine, $800 for burnt coil, bunch of other stuff that actually broke and maintenance items (such as water pump and a timing belt) that added up to over $5,000 in 18 months of my owning that piece of $%^&. Sorry. I could have bought a brand new car for that money!!!!!

    I now own a 2005 Mitsu Outlander and I couldn't be happier. And, if you read the reviews, Mitsu cars have way less problems.
  • newtosubarunewtosubaru Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. I want to hear both postive and negative reviews of Subaru. Like I said, this is my first venture away from Chevy and GM. I almost bought a Honda Accord for my wife, but got an '05 Malibu instead. It's okay, but not the best. Thanks again.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No offense but you are comparing a used car to a new car. Second, if you look back at Mitsu's long term reliability it's way way down on the list. While those particular cars (96-02 2.5L DOHC engine) subies are known to have head gasket problems, there weren't any other (that you mention) repairs needed on the car.

    All cars from all manufacturers breakdown, be them Toyota, Honda, MB, BMW, Lexus, or Mitsu.

    To the Original Poster:
    If the head gasket hasn't been done on an 96-02 2.5L Subie, you should probably work in about $1,500 worth of "I'm gonna need to do the Head Gasket and associated maintenance items" when negotiating a used car. The associated things would be the timing belt, water pump etc. since the engine will be nearly torn down anyway to do the HG.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    A new coil cost you $800?

    The ignition coil is an $80 part. Two bolts to remove and replace, and it's right at the top/front of the engine. It takes about - 90 seconds to replace.

    How did that get to $800?

    It should be $80 plus half hour labor at the very most, so I don't see how you get to $800 from there.

    Sounds more like you need to replace your mechanic.

    Having said that, gaskets are indeed a concern. Check for leaks there and on the valve covers, and the front and rear main seals. Also listen to the wheel bearings, if they're noisy they're probably gone.

    If it's leak-free and quiet you're probably good for quite a while. I've seen 2 Foresters go over 250,000 miles.
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    How is it that I am comparing a used car to a new car? I have never bought a new car in my life.

    After my Subaru problems I searched the internet (and this site too) and saw many engine problems reported for Subarus, and not just the headgaskets.
    We were ready for the headgaskets when we bought the Legacy, but we weren't ready for the warped engine without it ever overheating or headgaskets actually blowing up on us. So there - put away about $3,000 just in case.
    I did look at the Mitsu reliability ratings - way better than Subarus.
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    How it gets to that? when your car is at the Subaru dealer and it's not going anywhere.... That's how. And if you don't know how to get the two bolts out, change the coil and what the heck the coil is - that's how. Especially, if the dealer charges $100/hour and overcharges all the time.

    We already replaced the dealer, needless to say...
  • b06sajb06saj Member Posts: 1
    Hello.
    I own an '03 Legacy ("non-Outback" , non-turbo year) 2.5 GT wagon / 5-spd manual. I love the car as a driver. Mechanically, though, I disagree with some of the reliability reports I've read. My head gaskets began leaking early in the year. They were replaced by my mechanic whom I consider to be quite competent - he's been working on my cars for 15 years or so. He advised me that Subaru is on the 6th or 7th iteration of the head gasket. This implies to me that they have been unsuccessful in resolving this expensive, recurring issue. In following Consumer Reports reliability ratings(which I have increasing unwillingness to honor), the black dots in the engine category are lag three to four years from current. I suspect this largely to be due to the head gasket issue. I would expect this problem to persist in all Legacy models going into the future, and to see it reflected in this pattern. Therefore,
    1. Be cautious about purchasing a used model. I don't recommend buying a
    used model unless all maintenance records (as best as can be taken) accom-
    pany the vehicle.
    2. Always have the mechanic scrutinize the engine for signs of head gasket
    leaks at every oil change.

    So far, I've had no repurcussions. My mechanic told me that this was caught relatively early and that he saw no damage to the block. But I will probably remain a little uncomfortable as long as I own the car that I may eventually experience some additional problems related to this issue in the future. I read a mechanic's blog from a known dealer in the Seattle area who seemed to want to put the truth out there. He claimed that, of the head gaskets he's replaced with no damage to the block, no further issues usually occur. Of course that's one opinion of many.

    One last comment, to agree with Paisan above. My mechanic has reported that he believes that he's seeing more issues in general with all Japanese makes. Now they may occuring more or less depending upon the brand, but even Toyota and Honda are seeing issues like this because all of the Asian brands (including Korean) sold in this country use Aluminum Blocks. Aluminum flexes more than does cast iron from heat. This means that states in warmer climates are probably more condusive to heat-related engine issues (I live in the Atlanta area). Be aware of that. But Subaru's, I think, are still pretty good cars. They ride pretty well; handle pretty well; are among the safer models on the roads; and, with proper maintenance, will still probably serve well for a number of years (hopefully!). Good luck to you.
  • kentuckyrangerkentuckyranger Member Posts: 41
    To own a Car is to maintain a Car.
    No matter what model you buy, you're gonna have to maintain it.
    Why bash Subaru for being nothing more than a Car that from time to time, needs work on it.
    If you buy any make of Car with 100k+ Miles on it, get ready to start fixing it, that's why the Person is selling it...
    To purchase a Subaru with over 100k Miles on it then come on to a forum and tell People not to buy a Subaru because yours broke down is a little odd in my Book.
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    it may be a little odd in your book but if it stops them from buying a car and paying $3,000 in a few months for a new engine - I'll be happy. I have nothing against maintenance items.
  • newtosubarunewtosubaru Member Posts: 4
    Well I had the dealership fax me service records for the car. It hasn't had the timing belt done, so I would have that replaced right away, the head gaskets have been done, so we're good there. The car has been serviced 23 times in its life. Mostly oil changes every 7500 miles. Parking brake has been replaced twice and the alternator has been replaced. Check engine light has been on three times, the oil pump has been resealed, new battery, transverse link cam seal inspection. They are asking $4370 for the car and my trade in value is $2,000. So I don't think that's too bad. Any feedback anyone?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We already replaced the dealer, needless to say...

    Good because they were far from honest with you. I've changed a coil myself, it's a piece of cake, and cost me $79 shipped.
  • darrenbdarrenb Member Posts: 1
    HI,
    Re: MY08, 2.5 manual

    I am having trouble with Subaru over a few issues. Any ideas or fixes?
    Subaru claim this is all normal and intentional, and cannot help.

    ONE
    After a normal cold start, I try to back out the driveway (with minimal-no throttle) and the car starts revving on its own, in the range 2000-3200 rpm. Lucky I dont keep letting the clutch out with brake off! It usually cycles down, back up, and down again. I have posted some clips on utube.

    Subaru say: "normal operational characteristic. This warm-up cycle is normal to see in this model and indicates a safe and optimal warm-up for your vehicle's engine. Rest assured there is no "undue wear" caused by this operation."

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im3t0CQ0nvM>>
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzWk1QXJzJU>>
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0JM8Fs37WU>>
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSgVmrOrvdg>>
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1Mnx-EMrlQ>>

    TWO
    There is no fine throttle control possible.. Its fly by wire I think, and its either on or off.. there is no feathering of the throttle possible. Try going down hill, or doing a hill start, or crawling in traffic, or even a normal start in first gear. Its terrible.

    Subaru say: "your concerns pertaining to "poor throttle control" are, in fact, normal to see and are indeed characteristics of operation"

    THREE
    When upshifting, the revs maintain for a moment even with no throttle. I bought a manual to have full control. Not to have it taken away. Not happy Jan.

    Subaru say: "feature found in Subaru vehicles which assists in gear changes, ensuring minimal wear to clutch components and smoother gear transition. We do not consider this normal operation to be a safety risk, rather, a beneficial feature designed with longevity in mind."

    FOUR
    Try double-clutch and rev while down changing. It really consfuses things. The car starts revving just as you get into the lower gear when you want slowing, and then realises theres no throttle and backs off.

    Subaru say in conclusion: we believe your vehicle to be operating to manufacturer's specifications
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Your first concern is definitely not normal. I have had a manual and a couple autos, and none exhibited this behavior. But, there is hope I think. A gal was through the boards not too long ago, Carol, I think, and claimed a similar problem. Mike (paisan) suggested that she have the ECU re-flashed to correct the issue and she reported back that it did work. I agree with you, that is a definite safety concern and it is foolish for Subaru to have claimed it was a normal operational characteristic. Perhaps the representative was not fully understanding the concern.... ?

    Second concern - I did not experience this and do not recall if MY07, for North America at least, had drive by wire or not. I found throttle control on the car very responsive, though the clutch itself was quite touchy.

    Third concern - I also did not experience this problem. I have a 1998 Ford Escort with a manual, though, and it does do this. I hate it, so I see your point!

    Four - never tried it, so cannot comment.

    I have a friend who currently owns a MY08 Impreza manual, so I will ask him about this things and get his input. I rode in the car a few times and did not notice any of the anomalies you addressed, but I suspect the revving while cold is the only one I would readily notice as a passenger.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I felt that our 2002 Legacy had a similar on/off throttle mapping. My 98 Forester and our new 2009 Forester are not like that at all - much more linear, easy to modulate.

    I think that's throttle-by-wire so ask the dealer if they can re-program it, maybe? Our 2002 was not by-wire.
  • az906az906 Member Posts: 1
    When changing plugs on my 2003 with 160,000 miles, I noticed oil on all of the plug boots, one had quite a bit. I had been noticing a hot oil smell for awhile but couldn't find a leak but was loosing about 1/2 quart between oil changes. I am sure it is the valve cover gasket and think it should be easy to replace but don't know what the proper torque is. I think it is easy to over torque these so if anyone knows for sure what the correct value is I would appreciate it. This is only the second repair the car has needed, the other was a pilot bearing in the transmission which I let a mechanic handle.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I would have to check my repair manual to know for sure, but it is fairly low, something like 9 ft-lbs. I found that one way to boost the reliability of the valve cover gaskets is to apply some "ultra-blue" silicon gasket sealer/maker to both the head and cover sides of the rubber gasket. Then, set the cover as you would otherwise, but let the sealer cure for 24 hours before operating the engine. After doing this with my 2.5L, I never had another leak from it. I replaced the gaskets once at 144K miles, then, when I replaced the head gaskets at 192K, I reused the same valve cover gaskets (which were leaking again) but added the silicon, and had no leaks for the remaining 30K miles I owned it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    The oil on the spark plug boots is from the round rubber o-rings that seal around the spark plug holes in the valve covers. My mechanic had had to replace these every other tune-up, or about 60K miles. This has been consistent on my 2001 Forester, which currently has around 190K and my wife's '03 Outback, now at around 97K. He replaces the valve cover gaskets at the same time he does the o-rings, but there has never been any indication of oil leaks from these gaskets. I also change my spark plug wires at that time.

    Just another Subaru quirk.

    I hope this helps.
    Len
  • subie822subie822 Member Posts: 6
    Hey Guys/gals,
    I need your help,im looking to buy a used 2001 outback limited (2.5 engine) with 41,000 miles on it this week.I've done some researched on the vehicle and found out alot of people have problems with the Head Gasket going out? Anyone had any problems with this on their 2001 Outback? Please share i need to know quickly..i put deposit for the vehicle...Thanks
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