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Comments
T9980
T9979
V0068
H0042
They all seem to have been done in 1996-97. Aside from that, the car despite having 185K miles seems to drive and run nicely. I have slowly become aware of some chronic problem areas i.e. motor mount...cracked cylinder head although with the mileage I would have guessed that should have happened earlier if at all, something to do with a pin in the differential backing out, and something to do with a rod falling? out of the clutch master cylinder. So, what else and if any of the listed stuff needs further discussion then "go for it" and inform me further.
Thanks'
Ron
1st one said
"Failed, due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance with the manufacturer drive cycle."
Test Type: OBDII
RPM: 740
TEST RESULTS
Overall OBD Result: FAIL
Connector Status: PASS
Communication Status: PASS
MIL Engine Off: PASS
MIL Engine On: N/A
Mil Commanded On: NO
Readiness Result: FAIL
Fuel System: READY
Comprehensive Component: READY
Misfire: READY
Heated Cayt: Not Supported
Evap System: NOT READY
2ndary Air Sys: NOT READY
A/C Sys: NOT SUPPORTED
O2: NOT READY
O2 Sensor Htr: READY
EGR Sys: NOT READY
Cat: NOT READY
Connector Volts: 14
PCM ID: (blank)
PID Count: (blank)
Cat DTC: NO
DTC's: N/A
2nd one said
"Failed - Test ABORTED - due to to excessive OBD monitors not ready - Too many readiness monitors."
Test Type: OBDII
RPM: N/A
TEST RESULTS
Overall OBD Result: N/A
Connector Status: N/A
Communication Status: N/A
MIL Engine Off: N/A
MIL Engine on: N/A
Mil Commanded on: N/A
Readiness Result: N/A
Fuel System: READY
Comprehensive Component: READY
Misfire: READY
Heated Cayt: Not Supported
Evap System: NOT READY
2ndary Air Sys: NOT READY
A/C Sys: NOT SUPPORTED
O2: READY
O2 Sensor Htr: READY
EGR Sys: NOT READY
Cat: READY
Connector Volts: N/A
PCM ID: N/A
PID Count: N/A
Cat DTC: N/A
DTC's: N/A
After being told that the vehicles just need to be driven longer foe the PCM to "RELEARN", I drove the second car for 85 miles over a 2 hour period. Checked for codes again, found none, took it for a reinspection 2 days later.
FAILED AGAIN!
This time it said: "Failed - Test ABORTED - due to to excessive OBD monitors not ready - Too many readiness monitors."
Test Type: OBDII
RPM: N/A
TEST RESULTS
Overall OBD Result: N/A
Connector Status: N/A
Communication Status: N/A
MIL Engine Off: N/A
MIL Engine on: N/A
Mil Commanded on: N/A
Readiness Result: N/A
Fuel System: READY
Comprehensive Component: READY
Misfire: READY
Heated Cayt: Not Supported
Evap System: NOT READY
2ndary Air Sys: READY
A/C Sys: NOT SUPPORTED
O2: READY
O2 Sensor Htr: READY
EGR Sys: NOT READY
Cat: READY
Connector Volts: N/A
PCM ID: N/A
PID Count: N/A
Cat DTC: N/A
DTC's: N/A
My main question now is: How long and how many miles must these dam saturns be driven for the PCM's to "RELEARN" and list the monitors as ready?!?! :sick:
I have never had such annoying problems with any other car.
I have two OBD Scan tools. 1 is a Mechanic Grade Mac Tools TaskPro ET2005AN, and the other is an ACTRON (middle of the road grade) equivalent to the mechanic grade, as far as reading/clearing codes and running specialized tests.
Both Scanners check 11 different input monitors. The scanners show the following:
1- Misfire-OK
2- Fuel Sys-OK
3- Comprehensive Component-OK
4- Cat-OK
5- Heated Cat-N/A
6- Evap- INC.
7- 2ndary Air Sys-INC.
8- A/C- N/A
9- O2 Sen-OK
10- Htd O2 Sen-OK
11- EGR Sys -INC.
Am I correct that INC. means inconclusive, and that N/A means not applicable to this vehicle??
Even tho both of my scanners are "mechanic grade" & I put in the exact vehicle info, they are LACKING, in that they still give a combination of both veh specific codes and GENERIC codes, meaning the scan results have mixed codes on the readout. Some are specific to the saturn sl & are listed in the service manual I have, and others are the generic OBDII codes which are strictly general and non veh specific.
I have not attempted a second try at emissions on the 1st car, because after having driven them both throught the exact same route, times and mileage, and the second one failed the second time, I figured I just may as well concentrate on getting one to pass, then do the identicle thing to the other one, as I have been doing. I am located in CT and you get one "free" retest with each failure, so it can get expensive to just keep trying each one.
HELP!!!!!!!
I am not a mechanic by far, but I know the saturns have at least 2 O2 or Oxygen sensors on the exhaust, which could be causing the check engine light to stay on. I own a 97 saturn and I have problems with it right now, but my mother has a 2002 L300 series saturn and she has the same problem. I wouldn't worry about it if the engine light stays on. If it starts flashing then worry about it. Other than that, it is more than likely one of the O2 sensors on the exhaust system. I hope this helps.
- Cat converter busted up; opened it up & vacuumed it out
- Hood rattle; tightened the 2 rubber bumpers in the front
- Engine mounts BOTH broken; replaced
- about 90% of all the crappy plastic fasteners are broken in the dash; tie-wrapped them down
- screws loose or missing in radio mount, other places
The thing still makes a lot of rattle, esp cold, but not as bad. I think something is up with the choke system, but don't know what to do about it.
BASICALLY, it is a cheap, old car with 190,000 miles. Its going to rattle until you put a LOT of money and work in it and then the tranny or engine will crap out.
Hope some of those ideas help.
Good Luck
However, now the car want to stall when he brakes to a stop. The RPM's go real low and sometimes, but not ALL the time it will shut off. He says when he stops and gives it some gas it's more likely to happen. Now this DID NOT happen to me when I did all this other work as described above; when I got everything back together and solved the cooling fan problem, this car ran remarkably well for a car with nearly 180K on it. It did NOT shut down once for me. Yes, I did notice a low idle once or twice. Yesterday at work he tells me that it's happening more frequently now. What could be doing this? No engine light has come on since I cleared it. A good mechanic friend of mine told me this morning that it could have something to do with the auto trans sensor(VSS?) that when approaching a stop or just starting out and the trans kicks back into 1st gear, a faulty sensor might be the culprit. But wouldn't this set a code? What about a vacuum leak? Any suggestions anyone may have for me on this would be very helpful. Sorry for being so long-winded. Thanks and have a great day!!
You might remember me from last years posts about my 96' SL and my friend's '94 I was working on( Mike from Pa.) I have another question about my '96 regarding the Traction Control feature. Recently I've been experiencing a lurch of sorts when I'm at highway speeds and in 5th gear. I thought my tranny was about to quit but this issue does NOT happen around town, just at 45MPH or higher and in 5th gear. On my way to work Tuesday night, it did it again as I was getting on the highway near my home and for whatever reason, I switched off the Traction Control Switch and I felt NO issues of any kind! I will take it to work in a few hours and turn it off then and see what happens. Now what I want to know is, is there a Traction Control Module or something that can be replaced? You can't turn off the Traction control feature in this car and KEEP it off because each time I start the car the indicator is lit on the switch, so if I don't want it activated, I need to reach over and push the button and the light goes out. Have you ever heard of this problem before? I'd thought I'd ask you for your opinion. Other than that the car runs fine and yes, still uses about a quart of oil a month. Thanks for your imput and have a great day!!!