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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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Comments

  • ken_from_njken_from_nj Member Posts: 105
    my forester i noticed on the sticker showed the port of Boston as the port of entry. uswc docks are back in operation since 10/9 albeit under taft hartley injunction as described above. new contract looms on horizon but still not done. supposed big hurdle, technology, has been past but until union/employers sign the new contract -the fat lady hasn't sung and delays can/should be expected for freight transiting the uswc ports. just mho. (unduely influenced by the fact i work in that industry) ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I bet Ensenada wishes they had the capacity to take much more of the off-loading. Nafta could make make things interesting (for LA anyway) if they could expand capacity. That 90 day "cooling off" period is going fast.

    Steve, Host
  • foresterbeanforesterbean Member Posts: 9
    I am having a problem with my AT 99 Forester. When the car is parked and I shift into Drive or reverse, the transmission lags and won't engage until I feed the gas and even after I feed the gas it still may take several seconds and then lurches forward. This is not the typical 1-2 second lag that has been discussed in previous posts. My dealer won't be able to take me until Monday. Does anyone have any ideas what might be the cause? I currently have 53,000 miles so I am hoping if it is anything major with the tranny that if will be covered under the powertrain warranty. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Alan
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    Have you ever changed the AT fluid? What you describe is very similar to what my present slug (non-Subaru, obviously) did when I first got it. A flush and fill dramatically improved the lag and lurch. Since all of my cars other than my former 2001 Forester & the current one have been MT, I don't consider myself an expert. I'm just throwing out a possibility.

    Ross
  • foresterbeanforesterbean Member Posts: 9
    Ross,

    I've always had it serviced at Subaru and since it is not part of the suggested maintenance schedule I'm sure it was never done. I will give it a try - I hope it is that simple.

    Thanks
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    I saw a gold colored 2003 Forester for the first time today and found it very attractive. I'm still happy with my platinum silver choice, but seeing that beautiful golden potato color now haunts me.

    spuds
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How many miles on it? I think 15-20K is a good time to get ATF drained and filled on any AT car, even if the manufacturer doesn't specifically suggest it.

    -mike
  • foresterbeanforesterbean Member Posts: 9
    Mike,

    It has 53,000 miles. The strange thing is that there is only a problem when shifting from Park. Once the car is moving it shifts through the gears fine. It looks like I will be changing the ATF today.

    Alan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Alan, that is typical of low-fluid level on an ATF. I had a similar problem on my XT6 @ 70K miles, added about 1Q of fluid and never had another problem for the 20K+ miles I had it after that.

    -mike
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    This morning on the way to work the CEL on my 99 Suburu Forester went on. Car was a bit low on gas,
    so I went to station and filled up. Made sure that gas cap had clicked several times. Started car. Lignt still on. Parked car to think about things. Started car again and light was now out.
    Logic? Could this possibly have anything to do with being low on gas? Suspect not but???
  • scirocco22scirocco22 Member Posts: 721
    Paul-- I've let mine run low (the first time on purpose just to see if the low fuel light worked and at what point it lit) several times to where the low fuel light came on and never had a CEL so in all likelihood it isn't that. I'd suspect the only way to be sure what triggered the CEL is to have the dealer run a diagnostic to see what error code triggered the incident you described.

    On my other car, I had an MIL (Malfunciton Indicator Light in VAG products = CEL) that lit and then after several driving cycles went off. After the diagnostics were run several months later, it turned out that I had a loose connection in one of the spark plug wires ...not loose enough to be mis-firing but just enough to trigger a MIL/CEL.

    --'rocco
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    In case you missed it, we're doing a long term test of the '03 Forester:


    "By far, this is the most upscale-feeling mini SUV we've ever had in our fleet,"


    Steve, Host

  • lowellklowellk Member Posts: 30
    Hello, everyone. This is my first posting here, though I've been lurking for more than a year. After finding myself stopping by with increasing frequency, I decided to join in the fun.

    momof05: I couldn't find a loaded 2003 Forester XS in San Diego or Orange counties here in southern California when I went shopping for one in September. There were many Xs and XS Premiums, but few XSs, and those had zero to four port-installed options (PIO). I ended up ordering one from the factory near the end of September; it took about five weeks to arrive at the dealership. The window sticker lists port assembly at Vancouver, WA. The vehicle as delivered was missing three PIOs I ordered (Cargo Bin, Cargo Net - Rear Seatback, Trailer Hitch) and included one I hadn't (Cargo Area Spotlight). I took a pass on the missing items for now and the dealer didn't charge me for the spotlight.

    thecat: At least you put thousands of miles on the car before it started leaking. My 2003 Forester had only 197 miles on it when I found it was leaking engine oil. I dropped it off at the dealership Monday morning. The service advisor called that afternoon to tell me it was a loose baffle plate and that they needed to drop the transmission to reach it. According to the 2001 factory service manual the baffle plate is enclosed by the engine oil pan, so I'm guessing that it's really the oil separator cover that was loose. I'll find out for sure when I retrieve the car this afternoon. After driving the complimentary 2002 Saturn SL1 loaner for four days, I can hardly wait to get behind the wheel of the Forester again. I hope this early failure isn't the start of a trend.

    ninian: Perhaps attaching the hook side of hook-and-loop (e.g. Velcro) strips to the smooth underside of the rubber mats would reduce slippage.

    the_schlepper: Juice is spot-on about the rear differential protector. I installed one on my wife's Forester last year in about an hour. It bolts on into existing threaded holes. The kit came complete with the necessary bolts, spacers, and what I think are clear installation instructions.

    spudman: I agree that the gold Foresters are pretty. My wife's Sierra Gold Metallic 2001 Forester S looks good, even when it's parked next to the Platinum Silver Metallic 2003 Forester XS I picked up last Thursday.

    --- Lowell
  • rochcomrochcom Member Posts: 247
    I read the long term test report and found a few surprises.

    When Car and Driver tested the '98 Forester, they got a 0-60 time of 9.1 sec. with the manual. Most reports indicate that the auto is about .5 sec. slower. The Edmunds reports shows the 2003 Forester with automatic, that weighs about the same and has the phase II engine that produces a bit more total torque and more torque at lower speeds, at a slow 10.2 sec to 60 mph. While there are always differences in testing conditions, and possibly, differences in axle ratio, this seems rather disappointing and is another reason that we could use a turbo. One of the reviewers suggested the H-6.

    The review foound that the XS with Electronic Brake Force Distribution and the new, larger, front discs stopped in 137 feet from 60. The '98, with smaller front discs, was found by CD to stop in 119 feet, which they happlily compared to a Porsche 911. Again, testing conditions vary, but the current figure puts the Forester below average for current small SUVs.

    Also, the review seems to indicate that the in-dash CD changer is part of the premium sound package. It is standard on the XS.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Welcome aboard! We're glad you finally decided to step out of the shadows and join the discussion!

    tidester, host
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    rochom,

    You'll usually find that car magazine 0-60 times are faster than those found by Edmund's or Consumer Reports. I'm not sure how Edmund's tests their vehicles, but with C&D, they'll try several methods (like dropping the clutch) to get the best times. I'm sure the majority of drivers will get times comprable to Edmund's or CR in day-to-day driving.

    Do you know if C&D did a road test on the 2003 Forester? That's probably a more accurate comparison.

    Ken
  • sfarinaccisfarinacci Member Posts: 10
    I had the same trouble with my 2002. I brought it in a few months ago and they said no problem. I had my 7500 mile check last week and they said Subaru is aware of the problem and they are working on a fix. It will entail either a recall or just the fix. I was told the service department would notify me.
  • ken_from_njken_from_nj Member Posts: 105
    "This was back in 1998, when the whole nation was enthralled by the mysterious stain on the blue Gap dress of a chubby White House intern — attention, in hindsight, that should have been paid more to developments abroad."
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    I've had my new Forester a week with almost no regrets other than wasting so much time pining alternately for a CR-V and a PT Cruiser.
    Now I'm almost halfway through reading the owner's manual and saw something interesting last night. The manual mentions the handle on the inside of the rear gate. In bold print the owner is warned not to hold onto the handle while closing the gate. I imagine that might hurt a little bit.
  • greenhead1greenhead1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Forester with an automatic transmission and would be interested in opinions with regard to towing a trailer at close to the rated maximum capacity of 2000 lbs. I would be towing a boat which the estimated total weight will be just under 1800 lbs (boat, motor, fuel, & trailer). I would be towing for distances mainly under 60 miles but occasion in excess of 450 miles. Any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,

    hank
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    You can tow 2K if your trailer has brakes. Otherwise Subarus are limited to to 1K towing. Check your owners manual for further advice.

    As to driving, do the obvious: allow for much longer stopping distances, no sudden movements, and drive (very) defensively.

    Bob
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think the auto will handle it fine. Make sure it's in good running condition, i.e. inspect the brake pads and tire pressure, oil, things like that.

    Alan: the auto trans is pretty robust. I'd find a place that can flush the ATF completely, i.e. with one of those machines that forces new fluid in and sucks the old fluid out.

    My Miata had 26k miles when I changed the rear differential oil. It was like chocolate milk with lumps. Totally nasty.

    Gear oil is thicker than engine oil, and engine oil gets replaced several times per year. Gear oil has to hold up for much longer than that.

    If a CEL cleared, don't worry about it. It does get stored in the ECU's memory if they need to look at anything in the future.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    I tow with some regularity (several times a year), and have posted my experiences to this board and others at Edmunds.

    The new advanced search might turn up some of those posts, if you want more detail.

    Suffice it to say that the Forester performs as advertised. It's not a full-sized pickup, but it will do what Subaru claims with aplomb.

    We tow a 16' Coleman pop-top (10' box + 2' storage compartment = 12' frame + bumpers and trailer tongue), which is class I (GVW = 2000#) at altitude (Rockies - 5k to 9k above sea level).

    We have an '01 Forester S+ MT. I added the OEM engine oil cooler, the performance gauge pack (oil temp, voltage gauges) and an electronic brake controller for towing purposes. Your AT should have the oil cooler already.

    Fully loaded in 3rd gear, our Forester will climb "straight up" (8-9% grades) at 50+mph over 9000' passes towing our camper. You really couldn't ask for more. Performance is fine.

    On a trip to the Black Hills last year (385 miles each way), we got 22 mpg going 75mph while towing. No issues with the clutch so far (30k). The owner's manual mentions some speed limitations on very hot days when hauling up extended grades for AT models. YMMV.

    I am VERY careful not exceed Subaru's stated specs, to the point that I use a bathroom scale to confirm the tongue load. I also run higher pressure tires on the camper than req'd to reduce rolling resistance (grade C at 45# instead of grade B at 35#).

    Trailer brakes are absolutely essential in these parts (lots of 15 mile long 6-7% grades). Braking distance is still longer than without the camper, but acceptable. Engine braking in third with the stick is actually pretty good. It'll hold 50-55 on a 4% grade without touching the brakes.

    Never had any sway, even in stout cross-winds (50 mph gusts), but our trailer has a low-profile (less than 4' tall).

    Hope this helps,

    -brianV
  • xccoachlouxccoachlou Member Posts: 245
    It was written, "the XS with Electronic Brake Force Distribution and the new, larger, front discs stopped in 137 feet from 60. The '98, with smaller front discs, was found by CD to stop in 119 feet"

    CR tested the 2001 Forester S and reported a stopping distance of 141 feet with the automatic.

    The 2002 WRX Sport Wagon, also tested by CR had a stopping distance of 136 feet with the 5 speed manual, while the 2002 Honda CR-V EX automatic was reported to have a stopping distance of 135 feet.

    FWIW, CR downgraded the Impreza to "average reliability" because of "squeaks and rattles".
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    In post #8179, Brian mentioned that he added an OEM oil cooler to his '01 Forester. How and where does that mount to the engine, where are they available from, what is the cost and what is involved to install it? Also, does it increase oil capacity? Thanks in advance for any and all info.

    Len
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    The OEM engine oil cooler is a heat exchanger that mounts between the block and the oil filter. It's basically a cooling coil that's wound tightly upon itself and soldered together so that it forms an oil tight cylinder. Oil passes through the center of the cylinder, and engine coolant is routed through the walls.

    Engine coolant is picked up at the thermostat housing (bottom radiator hose mount - the kit contains a replacement thermostat housing with an extra hose connection on it), routed through a short steel pipe, the oil cooler and into the block at the passenger side drain (remove the plug and install a hose connector).

    I got mine from Teague's auto. Cost was around $325 as I recall, which was $100 less than my local dealer. The kit was complete, hoses, clamps, the whole bit, and all original Subaru parts. It increases oil and coolant capacity slightly, but not enough to be worth talking about.

    Forester AT models have one standard. It's only the MT that might need this mod. I can't speak for other Subes with the 2.5.

    Installation is a cinch, because you've got great access. Drop the plastic spray shield under the engine and everything's right there. Because my Forester was still nearly new, I reused the coolant.

    -brianV
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    image
    This Forester can haul some colossal potatoes.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    LOL, Spudman! The shocks on that Forester must be pretty beefy!

    Ken
  • chaynes1chaynes1 Member Posts: 27
    Have a Chesapeake 17 that I built several years ago. Also scratch-built an 18 ft dacron-over-cypress kayak with an open cockpit last year using a very old plan (1920's) found in a paperback book. Great for fly fishing but too light for open waters. Also have a fairly old 19 ft singles skull. Built a lightweight trailer to haul all three. My domestic SUV pulls them OK, but I haven't had all of them behind the Forester. Can't say anything bad about the WRX. Well, maybe one thing. The seat bolsters hold you too firmly for hours of straight-ahead driving, and my legs would ache like crazy (BTW, I'm flirting with old age). The trade to the Forester was really to get the towing capability, leather, squirm room, and a sunroof, so I recommend the WRX wagon without hesitation. It feels a lot more confining inside than the Forester, but put the pedal to the metal from 3000-5000 rpm in third gear and I guarantee an adrenaline rush every time. I still crave that feeling.... Having driven both, I would still take the Forester (barely) over the WRX in the same price range for all the things I want a car to do. In summary...a WRX is a hot date, but a Forester is a loving wife. At my age, I'll take the loving wife.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Nice Spudmobile - Tidester and I see them often done here in Idaho :-) Looks like an Idaho Russett up on the ol' roof rack (please don't tell me it's a Yukon Gold ).

    Steve, Host
  • momof05momof05 Member Posts: 12
    I'm getting ready to buy a new 2003 XS, manual transmission. I decided on blue, so the dealer traded a silver one with another dealer. I test drove this blue one today.

    I don't want it.

    The shift knob is crooked, sort of twisted to the left. I worry about what this could mean, aside from poor workmanship.

    The vehicle made a low level (hard to hear) high pitched whine, which got louder as the speed increased. I don't remember the other Foresters I drove having this. I also couldn't tell whether this sound came from the engine or somewhere else - maybe the transmission or gear box?

    The clutch was very touchy going from a stop into 1st gear, by which I mean it jerked almost every time it didn't stall. The clutch didn't engage until the pedal was almost at the top of it's movement range. Yes, I do know how to drive a stick shift, we used to own one, plus I test drove several other Subaru sticks in the past week with no problems. Are these problems a matter of adjusting the clutch and maybe the idle, or could they be a symptom of an underlying problem, possibly related to the crooked shift knob and/or the whine?

    Also, looking at the vehicle from both the front and back, the driver's side is almost imperceptibly lower than the passenger side. I've experienced this before, with our 99 GMC Savana - it only got worse, and is now noticeably lopsided.

    It had 144 miles on it when I got in, about 40 or so explained by the drive from the other dealership. So, that leaves about 100 miles. Even without the things I've just mentioned, I am uncomfortable with what I feel is high mileage on a new car. What does Subaru say about vehicle break-in? Is 100-150 miles a big deal when I don't know who drove it, how many people drove it, or how they drove it?

    So - what do you guys think? I'm definitely not getting it, but I would like opinions on what you all think might be going on here.

    Also, any opinions on the mileage? Too high, or within the normal range for a new car?

    The final price I negotiated with options is about $550 above invoice, or about $700 less than Edmund's TMV. What have your experiences been?

    Thanks, and thanks for everyone's input on the options that I asked about before.

    If this is posted in the wrong place, please forgive me...

    p.s. I don't think the dealer would be willing to get another blue one in, so if I really want that color, I may have to go to one of the other dealers that I turned down, which already feels awkward...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Tidester and I see them often done here in Idaho :-)

    Absolutely! And you don't know what scared is until once bounces off the vehicle approaching you on the highway!

    tidester, host
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    momof05.....I would NOT buy something I did not like. You will always have issues with it. The mileage is insignificant as is the price. You obviously are not happy with the shifter the way the car sits and the whine.
    Walk away from this one and try another and/or another dealer. I'd bet your current dealer could find you a replacement...try it!
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    Don't buy this car if you have serious reservations about it. You will never be happy with your purchase. When this much money is at stake, you don't buy something of which you're not sure.
    I bought a new Legacy in 1990. Mechanically and cosmetically it was very sound. However it made several alien sounds that bugged me endlessly, one of which was wind seeping in through a flawed door seal. I ended up selling the car in less than two years.

    spuds
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    You must be into nuclear farming. ;)

    I do, however, think you may have exceeded the Forester's 150 pound roof rack load limit with that mutant tater.

    Bob
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Absolutely! And you don't know what scared is until one bounces off the vehicle approaching you on the highway!

    mashed!

    In topical news, check out recall info if your automatic Forester is a new one: Subaru recalls 163,000 vehicles


    Steve, Host
  • rsay777rsay777 Member Posts: 100
    I can comment on the clutch part of your post. What you are feeling here is the Hill Holder releasing. On my X, MT with 5K miles it has finally loosened to the point that it releases much more smoothly. I had the HH on the 91 Legacy and now can't live without it. When I heard the 03 Forester had the HH I knew I had to have one. No cooked shift knob here and the whine I hear is the typical Suby tranny. Bob L.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Forester > Spudster?

    Bob
  • momof05momof05 Member Posts: 12
    About the clutch and the hill holder - does the hill holder engage every time the Forester comes to a stop, even on level ground? Most of this test drive was on level ground.
  • rsay777rsay777 Member Posts: 100
    it seemed in the earlier miles the HH was too sensitive but now things are normal. It would activate on the slightest grade which might seem level. In fact it would activate during periods of backing up to park (irritating) but now that has lessened. Bob L.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Forester > Spudster?

    I LIKE it!

    tidester, host
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    I like the name Spudster also, but Mrs. Spudman keeps calling my car the Spudmobile. I kind of favor the Silver Spud. Eventually I may get a vanity plate. I'd like to visit Idaho someday. It's my fantasy Utopia, my Shangri la, my Oz, My Mecca.

    Had the Spudmobile (aka Spudster) for over a week now and still no regrets or second thoughts which is unusual for me. Bought some 10 foot lengths of PVC pipe at Home Depot and could almost fit them entirely inside. They extended a few inches out the front passenger window which was fine by me.

    First tank of gas only yielded 19MPG. Must be from lugging those big spuds. The ride is fine but in an effort to get a smoother ride I bought a set of Mashelins. I like the look of the Mashelins but the ride is a bit lumpy with them.

    Below is a pic of my car with the new tires.


    imagehttp://spudman28.homestead.com/files/spudmobile3.jpg>

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We better keep our eyes on this tot.

    Steve, Host
  • jimbob17jimbob17 Member Posts: 77
    Spudman- I have a new hero. Mashelins I like it.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Yokohama onion rings!

    Bob
  • spudmanspudman Member Posts: 32
    I hear that these onion ring Yokohamas are preferred by those who want tuberless tires!

    spuds
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    FYI - those tires come with a warning indicating that driving on ketchup is risky! :-)

    tidester, host
  • lowellklowellk Member Posts: 30
    I retrieved the car from the dealership service department Friday evening. The source of the problem was the oil separator plate, as I had surmised. I've only driven the car 22 miles or so since picking it up, but all seems well. At least there's no new oil on the driveway.

    --- Lowell
  • brooks11brooks11 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, new here. Have a couple of questions. Got my new Forester 2003 last week. Am happy with it but have a couple of questions. Got an automatic and haven't driven one of those in years. First few days the weather was stormy, so haven't had much driving time. Today took it into town and at first there was this high pitched, not loud, whizzing sound, as it changed gears, I think. Hadn't heard that before. It went away after I had stopped, did an errand and was back driving. Temperature was about 58 degrees.

    The car was very new on the lot when I bought it. They said had arrived the day before, still wrapped outside in sticky paper. Hardly any miles. Dealership is about 60 miles away so I bought one they had just received. Had been dealing with them a month, so the price was good, or I thought so. We had finally negotiated to just over invoice on a car. They were going to bring in one for me, in the color and options I wanted (or nearly), but didn't want another trip, so took the one that I liked that they had just received.

    Now wonder whether they did all the pre testing on it. Was there for hours waiting and needed to get home. Also the inside of the warrenty book didn't get signed by them.

    See any problems?

    Question #2, I realize it is different driving an automatic, but do these have power on the freeway? No freeway here to test. Seems very low key compared to my previous manual (VW). Is there an overdrive? Have a steep hill to go up at about 25-30 miles a hr. I have to push the pedal harder? Know this sounds strange, but haven't driven an automatic in over 25 years.

    Am very happy with the car, love the room, the visibity, feel of it and it turns on a dime! Just need to know a couple of things and maybe how to drive it!

    Also how is one supposed to drive with a new engine? To break it in gently? No info in the manual that I can see, but lots of info on warnings! Would never have learned to drive if I had had to read one of these at 15!

    From the Pacific Coast

    Brooks
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Brooks,

    Congratulations on your Forester purchase.

    By any chance, was your Forester warmed up when you heard the "whizzing" noise? Automatics can be noiser than manuals when cold.

    If you have any concerns regarding your vehicle, you should set up an appointment and have the dealer document your concern and try to address it.

    As for the break in process, you should be very gentle on the engine for the 1st 1000 miles. Try not to rev the engine over 4000RPM unless in an emergency. Also, try not to keep the engine RPM at one particular level for too long (such as on the highway). The whole idea is that you want to give the engine internals a chance to seat themselves without over straining it. After the 1000 mile mark, you can slowly start going above 4000RPM.

    The automatic transmission in your Forester is controlled by a Transmission Control Unit (TCU). The TCU will "learn" your driving habits over the next few thousand miles. On your "hill", just apply enough gas to keep you at the speed you want. The TCU does the rest in downshifting to the right gear you need. If you don't feel you're getting to the right gear, you can always manually select a lower gear. 4th gear is overdrive. There is also a torque converter lock that engages when you're crusing in one gear for a period of time to maximize fuel economy.

    Enjoy.

    Ken
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