Finding low mileage used Suburu Foresters
Is it really true that it's almost impossible to find a low mileage (6,000-20,000??) newer used model? I have finally settled on a Forester as my first choice, but am having trouble finding a 2005 or 2006 model. Any thoughts? I would've considered a 2004 but according to Edmunds the more recent models are the better ones.
I understand the dealers buy used ones at auction, do 122 point check-ups and minor repairs, and that's it. HOw trustworthy are these computer checks?
Thanks for your thoughts.
I understand the dealers buy used ones at auction, do 122 point check-ups and minor repairs, and that's it. HOw trustworthy are these computer checks?
Thanks for your thoughts.
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
One trick is to find a cherry looking Forester in a parking lot and wait for the owner to come out and chat them up. I dropped a hint to a friend that had a cream puff Outback and she decided to buy a new one even though she hadn't been thinking of trading and was perfectly happy with her car. But knowing she had a buyer pushed her into going to the showroom, and I wound up with a low mileage ride.
Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop
Use cars.com or AutoTrader.com and do a search.
For me to find many used Tribecas I had to really expand my search beyond just the Mid Atlantic.
-juice
John
-juice
The way new car prices are these days, there is less of an advantage going with 1 and 2 year old vehicles.
If it fits, it looks like leasing is quite attractive these days.
John
Just talked to a guy who is a dealer, and has access to Manheim auction cars. He searched for Tribecas they've sold recently - all were 24.5 to 26k.
Now wait a sec, because new ones start at 27k, and a dealer has to add his markup to make a profit. So we're talking very near full price for a one year old model.
May as well buy new.
-juice
-mike
-juice
Also what do you like more about the 2005 model? Isn't that just electronic throttle and the smaller spare?
I have the car overnight and know they will pressure me to buy. I haven't bought the Carfax report yet--want to decide if I really want this or not. 2008's are coming out soon.
According to dealer the car was registered at a marine base. That's all I was told when she looked at carfax. hmmm.
I'd sure appreciate comments.
2005s were good, they actually got better mileage, 23/30, and yeah they had that full-size spare. Ground clearance is about half inch less, but that probably won't ever matter. If you like the look, go for it.
-juice
I just think that's too close to new car pricing. It should depreciate 10% the minute you drive off the lot, plus another 10% every year after that. So it should be 15-20% or so less than a new one.
I guess the cheaper one falls in that range, but barely.
Remember you lose warranty coverage. So even if you have to get a 5 year loan instead of a 4 year loan to buy new, you're covered that extra year for the powertrain.
-juice
On the other side of the coin, does anyone have an idea for selling an older high mileage model ('98S 130,000, no rust, a few dings, everything works). Has anyone ever tried those direct-to-the-public auctions?
Are late model former fleet vehicles with low miles worth considering or is there a good reason for the discount? :confuse:
But how would I know if a car had been in a rental fleet? The CarFax report doesn't specify what kind of fleet. The dealer bought the car at a regional auction - Would the dealer know the origin? Could I perhaps learn that by examining the vehicle?
Any fleet vehicles are driven by non-owners. Most non-owners treat them like garbage and they take extra abuse. Just my opinion.
-mike
If the vehicle has not been deliberately abused, how much harm would likely have been done to the car in just 10 or 13 thousand miles? It might be a good deal. On the other hand, maybe they flogged it and trouble is waiting down the road. :sick:
I've never understood why an adult would want to abuse a car just because they didn't own it.
Chances are that it won't be a "bad" car but on the off chance it was abused, why open yourself up for the risk?
-mike
There are gems out there, you just may have to look a bit for 'em. Take an extended test drive, get it inspected, etc.
-Brian
Sounds like good advice to me.
I guess the one good thing about shopping for a used Subaru is that a flaw will tend to make itself more obvious. If there are any drivetrain issues you will likely hear it or even feel it.
A used Subaru with 10k miles that looks clean and drives perfectly smooth will very likely prove to be a good buy.
Again, a flaw should make itself obvious (loss of boost mostly).
Do turbos with automatic transmissions also have BOVs? It may be sacrilege, but I would not rule out getting one with an AT.
The auto takes longer to build boost, consider a newer 2.5T engine if you can afford that if you go with auto. They have less lag due to 25% more displacement plus AVCS valve control.
Autos do get a more sophisticated AWD system, too.
FWIW, my '04 w/MT has less than 26k miles on it. When I turn it next May, the engine will be just broken it for the next owner.
-Brian
Signs I would check are the reserve coolant tank cap, if it isn't full or caked up then coolant may not be flowing through the turbo.
-mike
Mike, I want to be sure I understand this - Are you saying that the coolant overflow tank from the radiator should be close to full and there should be crud on the underside of the cap? And this indicates good turbo cooling. :confuse: Could you please elaborate on this?
Thank you.
-mike
The big problem with used Suby's is that you can get new for not a whole lot more than used and with 4.9 APR, it can get difficult to sell as Suby's hold their value. YOu do have a lot of warranty left though and that is very good.
Those are about $19k new, so yours would probably be $17k retail at a dealer. I bet you can get $16k for it, perhaps more if it is an auto.
I'm really thinking of putting up a few For Sale ads and maybe putting it on some car selling web sites.
Is there a forum here about selling your own car? I'm concerned about legal (test drive questions) and financial issues -- like do you take care of the sale at a bank -- I don't want someone to try to give me a check and it would turn out to be fake, etc. Years ago I sold a Jeep I had, and we did the transaction at his credit union, which worked out fine.
The catch is it's a bit of money and probably will require a loan. That may work against you.
The Jeep dealer is gonna low-ball you on trade, maybe $15k. You can ask in the Real-world Trade-in values thread right here on Edmunds.
You may want to cruise the list of all the Smart Shopper discussions. There may be others you'll find helpful as well.
My wife's 05 LLBean Forester has about 27K on it at the moment, my 06 Forester Premium has 5K, and my 03 Tundra has 13K. When I was still working folks used to put their orders in for our cars ahead of time because they know I am a maintenance fanatic, including Mobil 1. We almost never traded in a vehicle, but now that I am early-retired I have lost my audience.
When my wife sold her 01 Premium Forester to buy her Bean the dealer wanted it very much, said it was the first used car that they had seen that they wouldn't have to do a thing to it, just drive it out front and put it into the row. She sold it to my sister-in-law, who still has it and loves it, to the dealer's chagrin. When I traded my 02 Forester L for my 06 it had 17K on it, and the dealer REALLY wanted it, so I made them happy.