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Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    The regulator uses a cable and pulley system, and they are notorious for popping off the drum. Once they do, they have to be replaced. The regulators cost about $30, but are a PITA to replace. Our 95 Grand Marquis has had 3 replaced so far, I just haven't brought myself up to tearing the fourth door apart yet since it is still working. I replaced them all myself, you have to remove the panel and all the trim around the glass, punch out the rivet pins, drill out the rivets, pull the glass out, remove the motor, and then the regulator. Replacement is using 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts. If you have ever thought about tinting the glass, this would also be the best time to do them.
  • unclewipunclewip Member Posts: 3
    For the past year I've been" braking and gasing" until my vehicle warms up, and then it runs fine. I have replaced the temperature sensor, throttle positioning sensor, and just yesterday I replaced the Idle Air Control, that the dealer recommended. Is there something else that controls the fast idle/choke, that I haven't tried to get into ?....Sounds simple, however it is frustrating, and embarrasing to sit at a light next to a new Mustang, tacking up the cold Towncar, to challenge a run...Any ideas out there???
  • hdehde Member Posts: 9
    thanks, sounds like fun. I will do this and let you know. thanks for the info
  • tempest2tempest2 Member Posts: 3
  • tempest2tempest2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Everyone,

    I'm having a debate with my Ford Lincoln dealer on a Parking Assist Module which I order to correct a problem stated in Ford TSB 06-25-13. The part which I order was 3W1Z-15K886-AC that is stated in the TSB. When I received the part the Ford shipping box label stated 3W1Z-15K886-AC ..BUT.. the white part number sticker on the part itself stated 3W1T-15T850-AL. My original module in the car the Ford part number sticker states 3W1T-15T850-AJ. Is the part I received the same as the my original or is it the upgrade to correct the problem? I have not installed it as of yet.

    Any help would be most appreciated.

    Thank you.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Well L does come after J, and since this is the same part with fixes, it would make sense that the part numbers closely match. My guess is the part number on the box is used for the TSB so the installer knows that he has the correct part, and the part number on the actual part is so the factory doesn't need a complete overhaul of the numbering system for that one part. It is much easier to change one letter of a part for the inventory and line, than to replace it with a completely different part number.
  • tempest2tempest2 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you acdii for the explanation. Very much appreciate the info and it does match up to what the dealer stated.

    I always though that the box number would be the same as the part number in the box. I had the thought that the part was a NOS part in a updated box.

    Once the rain stops here I will install it.

    Thanks again acdii
  • friendly1friendly1 Member Posts: 2
    It has been 7 weeks since my 2003 Lincoln Town Car has been at the Dealer, dead as a door nail. After week 1, the dealer told me I needed a new harness and 'FORD QUIT MAKING THIS PART'. This is only a 6 year old vehicle that Ford has quit making the part for. The dealer kept me hanging on for 3 weeks, saying that they were waiting to hear from FORD as to what they should do. Finally, I called Ford myself and within 2 days, they began searching for the part and they claimed to have found one on a junk car. They spent another week shipping it to my dealer, only to discover the wrong part was shipped. Another week or so goes by and they discover another part and ordered it, supposedly! GET THIS, AFTER ANOTHER WEEK PASSES, THEY REALIZE THE ORDER WAS NEVER PLACED. I DISCOVERED THIS YESTERDAY. NOW I AM FUMING OUT THE MOUTH AND I HAVE NO CONFIDENCE IN THESE PEOPLE AT BALDWIN MOTORS. ANY IDEAS?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Take it to an independent. On a car that old it does not need to be taken to a dealer since the warranty is gone. You can more than likely find an independent that can find the actual cause and fix it for you at less cost. Check Car Talk to see if there is one near you listed.
  • friendly1friendly1 Member Posts: 2
    I wish I had done this 7 weeks ago, but the dealer has it stranded inside their garage with no harness inside of it.....it has no electricity..therefore, it can't go anywhere!
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Clean or replace the MAS flow sensor. It is located near the air intake filter and is has security screws to keep people from tinkering with it. It is not adjustable. Over time, these sensors get a little debris on the small metallic wires and it causes the engine to have symptons like you are describing. I usually spray electrical parts cleaner on the small wires and the inside of the unit to clean it. Do not use anything hard on the small wires. This will mess-up the sensor.
  • furleyfurley Member Posts: 13
    That really sucks......I had an 03 T/C and from what I learned about it...the 03 had is own unique electrical system. I found this out when I attempted to change out the radio and couldn't.
  • 82chevy182chevy1 Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the engine in a 91 lincoln town car and it won' turn over the starter and solenoid have been replaced when i swapped the engine i am getting power to the starter but none to the control wire i checked the ignition switch,all fuses, the new starter and solenoid, and i checked and rechecked all of my wiring connections and grounds, i also reset the anti theft system, but still no crank. if someone could send me the engine bay wiring diagram or starting circuit diagram i would be eternally greatfull.
  • rollarrollar Member Posts: 1
    I have a slight vibration and rumble in my 2007 town car. It reminds me of a car with a bad u joint ;; The dealer drove it and noticed it right away and has checked tires ,u joints,drive shaft,ring and pinion and still have it;; It is noticeable from 53 mph on up but have to be on a smooth blacktop road to hear it;;;Was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem as even Ford Motor Company did not offer any help..It is not loud and some people don't even notice it, but I do and it is aggravating on long drives;; Any good help would really be appreciated..
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Did they actually pull the driveshaft? If they didn't, then they cant rule out the u-joints. A slight vibration like you describe can easily be a U-joint that is binding ever so slightly. I assume the tires were rotated, and nothing felt in the steering wheel. Only thing I can think of to locate it, have the car on a lift, with jack stands under the rear axle to simulate being on the road and put the car in gear and run it up to speed while taking a scope to the various drive train parts. If there is a wheel or tire issue, that is the only way to spot it.
  • ryan79txryan79tx Member Posts: 2
    HI i got a 2000 TC EXEC my multifunction fuses keep blowing, ALL MY BULBS WORK FINE, my running lights stay on too when i change the fuse I turn the left blinker on and it blinks fine ,i switch it to the right and it blows the fuse everytime! and the all the blinkers stop working, i then press the bake and it blows another multifunction fuse everytime,and the brake lights stop flashing when i press the brakes ,I have checked all the wires connected to the head lamps and stop lamps and they appear to be fine,now my running lights still work front and back,,, just no blinking from the front and no brake light flashing when i stop..PLEASE HELP
  • ryan79txryan79tx Member Posts: 2
    WELL I CHANGED THE BRAKE SWITCH, ''THAT I FOUND OUT WAS BAD'' ,NOW THE BLINKERS ARE WORKING BUT THE BRAKE LIGHTS ARENT FLASHING ON AND THE CAR IS NOT COMING OUT OF PARK, I THINK IT MIGHT BE THE BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR ANY SUGGESTIONS???
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    My 1999 Town Car just started running the battery down. The battery is only a year old and I had the electrical system checked at Pep Boys(everything checked out normal). Just to be sure about the battery (Florida kills batteries) I had a new Bosch battery installed yesterday. This morning I go to get in the car and it's dead again. I can't see where I left anything on, no lights and all doors are closed. When I turn on the ignition, the dash lights flash wierdly, then appear to go normal. Upon ignition it just clicks. The engine will jump start. I have an aftermarket stereo which was installed a couple of years ago by Auto Safe and Sound. The unit has an external Sirius tuner which appears to have stopped working about the same time the anomolies started. I'm going to charge the battery and disconnect the Sirius tuner. Any other ideas?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    You need to put an ammeter in series with the battery, and start pulling fuses until you see the draw go away, then isolate whatever is on that circuit until you find the problem.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Well now I'm beginning if I have a battery problem at all. Hooked up a jump box to the battery, all the starter would do is click. Hooked up the battery tender to charge the battery overnight and it indicated the battery was fully charged. Does anybody know if the starter solenoid on these starters is replaceable or if the whole starter has to be replaced? Anybody replaced a starter on one of these engines? Any gotchas?
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    The starter change-out is not tricky. However, this starter usually makes some unusual noises and does not turn the engine over quickly before it quits. It gives some indication that it is going-out. When you were checking the battery, did you do anything like turn the headlights on and try to operate the power windows, blow the horn, or operate the trunk release? If for some reason the starter motor resistance is high, it takes more battery power to turn it over.
  • top_guntop_gun Member Posts: 1
    was wondering if you ever resolved your problem
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Just thought I'd post a followup....My problem turned out to be a bad + battery cable. Sometimes the simple and most obvious is overlooked.

    Ed
  • unclewipunclewip Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the concern....I went on forever, eventually I went to the dealer and paid over $400 to check the system. It was the digital clock that caused this Gremlin, that hasn't worked in the past three years!!....Hopefully this info will benefit another proud Lincoln owner!....Feel free to send me royalties to help soften the blow...
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    thanks for mentioning the clock i unplugged the clock which it hadn't worked for a long time my alarm now works and the door is not dinging when there is no key in it
    and my baterry is not dying :)
  • jshaw3jshaw3 Member Posts: 7
    After locking my 2004 tc,the alarm will go off(sometimes it may be delayed 3-5 min.
    I tried manual locking also ,but it still alarms.Any suggestions?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Sounds like a short in the door lighting circuit. The passive alarm works if you lock the doors with the ignition off, using the remote or the keypad, and sometimes if you lock the door before closing it. Any of these acts will set the passive alarm. If you are sitting in the car and use the remote to lock the doors, and then open the door without first unlocking it with the remote, you will trigger the alarm. I am guessing that one of the doors has a faulty door open switch, they may be combo switches, one for the light, the other for door ajar, and a short in one of these could be triggering the alarm. I had a problem on a 2000 Grand Marquis where the interior lights would come on all by themselves, turned out to be the keypad, it had a small hole in it, and when it got wet, would short out and turn the lights on. It never triggered the alarm though, so I dont think that is the case on yours.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    I recently had a vibration/rumble in my 99 towncar at about 115k miles. It would come and go and was something like you were running over the rumble strips on the side of the road. I've had an older ford ('57 Retractable) that had a bad joint on the driveshalf that acted similar. i had it checked at a local transmission repair shop (that I trust). I figured that the I had a sticky valve in the transmission or that the torque converter was going bad. What I found out was that an $8 bottle of Instant Shudder Fixs put into either the transmission or the torque converter did the trick. The transmission had never been serviced (according to the guy who checked it) so I had the fluids changed and this bottle of stuff added. It's smooth as silk again.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    The Owners Manual tells how you can substitute another door pad combination so as to not have to rely on the factory setting. Follow the directions and see if the new combination fixes the problem. ;)
  • flmustang35flmustang35 Member Posts: 1
    i have inoperable taillights, all other lights work properly, i have checked the bulbs and fuses. any suggestions on what to check next?
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Do your turn signals light up when energizes? If they do then the problem could lie in the stop light switch.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    You didnt specify the year and model of your car. If it is a recent(last 10 years or so) then the lights are energized via the GEM module under the dash. When you say tail lights, I assume you refer to the running lights when you turn your parking lights on. You can have good power through the fuse, but if the GEM is having problems, then the lights aren't getting juice. You can do a google search for your car to see if there is a wiring diagram online to see where the lights run through.
  • bucky22bucky22 Member Posts: 4
    Did anyone ever figure this out?

    I have the same problem in my 1995 Lincoln Town Car. Battery is completely drained after three days of not being started.

    After the battery is disconnected, then reconnected through an ammeter, there is an initial draw of about .78 milliamps that goes down to .32 milliamps after about 10 seconds. There is some variation in this .32 milliamp current -- say +/- 5 milliamps -- over time even with nothing apparently changing in the vehicle.

    It is NOT:
    Rear courtesy lamps activated by armrest switches.
    Sun visor vanity lamps.
    Glove box light.
    Current drain through alternator. (when disconnected, it caused no change in the current draw)
    Trunk lamp.
    Engine compartment lamp.

    The greatest current draw is for engine compartment fuse #5 (ignition switch) and #10 (air bag)
    Also, instrument panel fuse #15 (various interior) causes the horn to chirp when removed and when replaced.

    Help!
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Bucky:

    I can only think that the best way to find out what is draining your battery down is to put a meter on your battery and if its showng a draw- Start pulling fuses until the draw goes away and that system should be your problem. Its worked for me.
  • w9r1w9r1 Member Posts: 15
    Do you have air ride? Assuming that you do, make sure your air bags are not leaking. If they are leaking the compressor will kick in too often and can kill the battery. There is a switch in the trunk in my '99 towncar. You should be able to hear the compressor running. Make sure your battery cables are good. I had battery problems recently and that's what my problem was. I've also had the leaky bags issue.

    Ed
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    i had the same problem with my 95 t/c unplugged the non-working clock my alarm works now and my key chime works correctly and my battery hasnt died in a week

    tim
  • bucky22bucky22 Member Posts: 4
    The current flow is 780 milliamps dropping down to 320 milliamps.

    The car no longer had air suspension, the trunk switch for it is turned off, and the engine compartment fuse has been removed.

    The instrument panel is electronic, including the clock. All instrument panel functions are normal.

    There is nothing plugged into the cigar lighter.

    I checked the alternator output current. It is correct.

    I put in another battery last evening. I will see if the symptom persists over a three day period of non-use.
  • bucky22bucky22 Member Posts: 4
    The definition of battery reserve capacity is: The number of minutes at which the battery can be discharged at 25 Amps and maintain a terminal voltage higher than 1.75 volts per cell, on a new, fully charged battery at 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27C). It defines a battery's ability to power a vehicle with an inoperative alternator or fan belt. www.mpoweruk.com/glossary.htm

    The reserve capacity of a Lincoln Town Car battery is about 145 minutes.

    Some calculations:
    Power that the reserve capacity can provide = 145 minutes x 25 amps x hour/60 minutes = 60 amp-hours
    Power the actual current draw requires = 3-1/2 days x 24 hours/day x 0.320 amp = 27 amp-hours

    I think that means the battery should not be drawn down deeply enough to prevent starting the engine.

    Therefore, the battery may be at fault. It may not have sufficient reserve capacity.

    -------------------------------------------

    Any others who have measured the actual current draw on this vehicle?
  • rcw1rcw1 Member Posts: 1
    my 99 TC has no power on take off. It has new plugs, new catalyze converter, new O2 sensors. Still it starts, runs fine in park, but when it takes off the engine shakes and has no power. If you are in an up hill spot, it will shut off before it tries to take off. If I am lucky it will take off,
    It does not have the 4pack coil system. It has an electrical system where a coil wire comes out from a wire hardness to each plug. If the car is down hill or on a flat area the car will take off and run but it will shake bad. When and if it can take off it runs fine on the high-way.
  • bucky22bucky22 Member Posts: 4
    Here are the differences in current draw when I remove various fuses. These are the only ones that significantly affect the current.

    Engine compartment
    # 5-----Ignition Switch------10 mA difference
    #10----Air Bags-------------100 mA difference

    Instrument panel
    #15-----Warning chime, Headlamp switch, License Lamps, Park Lamps, Ashtray Lamps, I/P Lighter Lamp, Interior Display and Switch, Illumination------------15 mA difference
    The horn chirps very briefly when this fuse is removed or installed
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    What is your current draw on yuor battery with nothing disconnected?
  • sammyboy88sammyboy88 Member Posts: 5
    you might want to check the charging system fuse. it should be #13 inthe fuse block undr the hood
    :shades:
  • sammyboy88sammyboy88 Member Posts: 5
    what is the door module, and where is it located
    :shades:
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    the door module is in the bottom of the drivers door it controls door locks and some security.
  • sammyboy88sammyboy88 Member Posts: 5
    in my 99ltc the # 30 and 31 (7.5 on both) fuses keep blowing and i have no power to the windows, door locks, power seats, merriors, and interior lights. could this be a short in the door module? :shades:
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    very well could be a short to power remove door panel and check for pinched or raw wires
  • sammyboy88sammyboy88 Member Posts: 5
    could it be connected in some way to the air bags, or could it possibly be something else? :shades:
  • sammyboy88sammyboy88 Member Posts: 5
    i found the door module an it smells like burnt wires but no physical signs of damage n the module except for a dark spot on the cr-kt board an no burnt wires :shades:
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    hi everyone, well the bane of my existence right now is my beautifully annoying lincoln. its a 1995 town car signature, cream puff, i mean i get a bunch of compliments, breezes right through emissions tests the whole 9 yards, i love my car, if i park her for too long? dead battery. when i exit the vehicle? chime stays on. as if the ignition switch isnt disengaging? make any sense? im completely useless when it comes to home auto repairs and i just wanted to know if anyone had experienced this problem, knew what it was so when i go to the mechanic he doesnt take me for a 3 hour tour, know what i mean! thanks in advance to anyone that can be of assistance.
  • gordieazgordieaz Member Posts: 1
    120K miles & still like new, EXCEPT, The doors have quit locking when the car is moving like they used to, the interior lights stay on much longer after a door has been open (but they do eventually go off), and the radio goes off when the ignition is turned off - it used to stay on until a door was opened or it timed out.

    I'm going to take it to a dealer, but would sure appreciate thoughts from anybody with a similar experience - electronics problems are scary.
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