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Hope it helps, good luck
-addtothehustle
link title
thanks
-addtothehustle
www.ineedaradiator.com
Any ideas of what could be wrong?
THANKS!!!!
Brett.
Brett
Brett
Brett
I don't know how fine the tubes are in that particular core, and I wouldn't normally recommend this to a Chryler owner, but try putting in about half the amount instructed on the bottle, of 'radiator stop leak'-type product, and see what happens after the engine has come up to operating temp a few times with the heater running.
That is a hell of a lot easier than changing out that heater core, believe me! Also, if your temp guage is registering a little higher than was usual beofre this problem developed, its probably due to your coolant level being too low, which you can top up when you put in the stop-leak.
Brett
or if you want to go with VTEC you can get a JDM B16A that came in the JDM intega for like $1100-$1600 plus S&H and it will come with the engine, tranny, ECU (computer) wiring harnes, and all of the components plus you can get them in OBD-0
B18A1 1.8L 130HP @ 6000RPM & 126 ft-lb @ 5000RPM redline @6500RPM
B16A 1.6L 160HP @ 7600RPM & 111 ft-lb @ 7000RPM redline @8200RPM
1. all liquid levels are great
2. believe starter works
3. spark plugs are in great condition
engine turns over but does not start; therefore, I believe fuel is not getting to the engine. Spark plugs are sparking and all else is well. Not sure what may be wrong, please any guidance is greatly appreciated. I am mechanically inclined and am an egineering student. Please respond via here or andy_kosmala@hotmail.com
thanks for any help
If you don't hear the fuel pump running (should sound sort of like an electric motor humming), then the fuel pump is likely the cause.
If you hear the pump running and it still doesn't want to start, then you must be looking at either something preventing the fuel from getting to the engine or a spark issue.
If it stays on its your grounds. This is an issue that I have not found very many Acura dealers or owners know about.
If you have questions contact me at jeffcinys@gmail.com.
BTW I believe the fuel pump is under the rear passenger seat, drivers side.
I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS with a 4 cylinder engine non Vtec. The car is a great car and I have not had any problem with it except recently it is overheating constantly. I have changed the thermostat a couple of times and the car still overheats. Any idea what could it be?
Thanks,
Charles Wisniewski
tigreinc@earthlink.net
203-792-81111
Just because you can hear the fuel pump MOTOR running, does not necessarily mean that the PUMP is working. Get yourself a service manual - it will have all the info that you'll need to solve this problem - they're only $25.00 - Haynes part # 12021. I've been troubleshooting my nephew's '90 hatchback for the past four years, but not familiar with the '93 particularly, but I've forty years experience as a back-alley mechanic, and find these manuals very helpful, if not a downright necessity. It'll tell you how to check fuel pressures and all sorts of other things 'on the cheap', and how to clear the DTC off the ECM after you pull any off, etc. All you have to do is be able to read and understand - teach yourself.
Last year I ran the car out of fuel by mistake since my fuel gauge needle was broken and not giving the correct indication to the fuel level.
Since then I've had other issues such as a cracked heat gasket where I had the block swapped out for a 'new' one. I figured the problems with the car would be resolved with this, which it was, until I got the fuel tank to half, at which point the car would nearly die when coming to a stop and idling. Starting is fine, driving is fine, idling itself is somewhat OK (it bounces between 600-750), but the problem comes up with coming to a complete stop. It's almost as if the fuel injection is forced to kick in to get fuel in to the engine.
The other issue since this occurrance is that the engine light would pop up and I'm getting a 43 on the ECU. At first I figured it'd be an issue with the new resonator and extractors I had put on, but then remembered I had this issue last year already before the new resonator and extractors. If I pull over, turn off the engine then back on, the light goes away but comes back on after cruising for a while again.
The engine light will pop up when cruising at a set RPM (3k about, no matter the gear), but driving randomly (city driving) it doesn't come on at all. The idling to near death coming to halt doesn't happen unless the fuel tank is half full.
I have a strong feeling that I have the original O2 sensor (car has less than 100k miles, new engine is 30k), so that'd probably need to be replaced, but I am sure that this is not causing the idling issue.
Any ideas would be most appreciated!
My issue was I had a crack in the heat gasket between the block and head, which caused coolant to flow in to the engine. The more coolant that got in there, the worse it got.
You can check this by looking at the spark-plugs. If the dirt on them looks like foam/white fluid, this is it.
It can also be the fuel pump on its way out, you'd need to check the fuel pressure and see if what the values are against what you'd expect the values to be.
And it sounds to me like your IAC and FITV need some attention to fix your idling/near-stalling situation; I'd suggest that you do this right after checking your fuel lines and changing the filter, then check out the other stuff, because if the lines are okay, this might be the primary cause of it not running properly thru all rpm ranges; I don't think that getting down to or below a half-tank of fuel has much to do with it. For info on this that you can probably do yourself, go to
http://www.acuraworld.com/index_files/diy/unproc/integra/Idle%20Fix.html
Good luck. Give'er a try.
dibble