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Acura Integra Engine Questions

2

Comments

  • 91integra291integra2 Member Posts: 2
    since u have the same car as me i will tell u to go with the motor that needs the least mods for the swap. Go with the b16a which is found in the 89-91 integra xsi, its exact fit to your ls and even uses the same mounts, only thing u need is b16a motor ,any b series tranny(vtec), and obd0 cpu
  • garydohcvtecgarydohcvtec Member Posts: 1
    i have a 92 integra witch has had an engine change at some stage and have been told its either an sir or a vti im trying to find out how i could check this out using the engine number but cant find any web sites were i can check engine numbers, any ideas, thanks. ps. its a [non-permissible content removed] import
  • kxiong87kxiong87 Member Posts: 3
    I currently own a 91 Acura Integra LS. I've been having overheating problems. So some people suggest I change the thermostat so I did and the problem still occurs. My radiator is still in an ok condition. I tested driving my car out to work and drove back home, my heating gauge started to climb pass normal heat which would be a little less than 50% of the gauge. I turned on the heat drove back home and realize there was some antifreeze dripping below my driver side tire. Anyone have any suggestion or tips etc... that I can deal with this problem?
  • tparktpark Member Posts: 3
    Where is the noise coming from?
  • tsb123tsb123 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2000 acura integra GS I want to place a and b16 a engine in it or SIR engine will it fit my car? And how much am I looking at for money wise?
  • addtothehustleaddtothehustle Member Posts: 2
    Check all your hoses for cracks and leaks. Best thing to do is pressure test it, you may have a small crack in the radiator, but it could be a head gasket too. numerous possibilities. Have you changed your timing belt and water pump?

    Hope it helps, good luck

    -addtothehustle
    link title
  • addtothehustleaddtothehustle Member Posts: 2
    I went to a mechanic regarding a noise in my front right tire. I thought it was the brakes but the mechanic says it can be any wheel bearing, all should be changed as well as a recommendation for replacing shocks. I know i don't need new shocks because i have a full tein suspension i got less than a year ago.. I need help, I can't afford to get screwed.

    thanks

    -addtothehustle
    www.ineedaradiator.com
  • tparktpark Member Posts: 3
    I recently replaced my CV Halfshaft on the passenger side, which is the housing for the wheel bearing, and that cost me about $240. I have a 1990 Integra LS. That should be all that needs to be done in regards to the noise, which should sound like a popping or grinding. You are looking at around $250 to $300 dollars depending on where you go
  • 91rs91rs Member Posts: 1
    ok so i have a 91 rs integra with a b18a1 in it and for some reason when i take off in low rpms the car will sputter till about 3500 or so rpms or even if i punch it full throttle it will just sputter out and like barely gain any speed some people say i need to check my air flow sensors others say my injectors are going bad and some even say it may just be a bad spark plug so please help!!!!! i have no idea what is wrong with it
  • jimbob1975jimbob1975 Member Posts: 9
    Recently my 98 Integra LS (see post #58) began smoking upon acceleration under a load ( e.g. pulling away from a light). It does not appear to do so either at idle or at a steady speed, nor is the inside of the tailpipe oily; but it does have a lot of soot in it. Would I be looking at a major repair and if so; given the car's age and mileage, should I get the repair done even if it means getting a new engine?
  • hornzrul83hornzrul83 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I Own A 95 Integra LS that i just actually finished working on and finally got running. Well sort of running. I really need help to figure out what is wrong with my car now. The car idles to low and kinda rough. But when i drive it and as long as im giving the car gas or if its in gear it drives fine. But heres my problem. When i go to shift and push in the clutch, my rpms drop down to almost zero and the car wants to die. I have to give the car gas just to keep the rpms up and for the car not to die. Eventually though i cant catch them and the needle drops to zero and the car dies. If anyone knows or has any solution to my problem. I would appreciate all the help. Thx.
  • reefer007reefer007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 2 dr integra that I have blown the timing belt on I have the valve cover off and am in the process of changing it but I want to know if I have caused any catastrophic damage to my engine. Also how do I check the valves and the pistins for damage . And if damaged is the motor junk and I would be better off just finding another engine to put in it or can the head be rebuilt? thanks
  • npkollmannpkollman Member Posts: 2
    I do not know what happened. I was driving home from school today and i came up to a stop light. So i pushed in the clutch about 100ft from the intersection. The car died. All the lights in the dash came on. This has happened before and i thought it was the heat of the day. i live in the desert. but it wasnt hot today. it would not start back up for about 10minutes. I had to push it. you cant bump start it and you cant turn it over. it just doesnt start. any help would be much appreciated. i do not know about cars or anything so try and explain as best as you can. thanks.
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    aren't you guys forgetting about the fact that engine in '94-'01 Integra faces left, and the '02-'07 RSX's faces right? (where the belts and pulleys are) This sounds like an extremely messy change. As an aside, does anyone know how the design engineers ever made this choice, to change engine orientation? It can't have to do with RH and LH drive, since both cars were designed to be built both ways. I'm a Mechanical Engineer but it's beyond me why a car company would make this change.
  • ksgsksgs Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I need some help. Yesterday I was driving my 90 GS when without warning she died. First I tried to accelerate and there was no response so when I pulled th the shoulder the choked and will no longer start (still cranks tho).

    Any ideas of what could be wrong?
    THANKS!!!!
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    Do you know which engine you have in your 91? I recently did my nephew's 90 hatchback with a B18A1 engine, and turned out when the belt snapped, he had bent a few valves but no damage to the pistons. As I'm not familiar with the 91 & which engines it might have, IF yours has the B18A1 engine, I can help you thru the process. As near as I can tell from the Haynes manual I've used (covers 90 thru 93 Integra and 91 thru 95 Legend), there were only two used in those model years, the B18A1 which is a 1.8L DOHC and the B17A1 VTEC, which is a 1.7L DOHC with variable valve timing & electronic control, which will have "VTEC" 'bossed'(raised lettering) right on the cam cover.

    Brett.
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    As always in such a case, check to see whether or not you're getting spark at the plugs, then whether you've got fuel going to the rail, then whether or not your injectors are pulsing. What makes you think that it 'choked?'

    Brett
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    My nephews got a 90 hatchback with the B18A1 in it, which I'm afraid is toast, at least for the moment, so I've been searching for a decent replacement used one, with little luck (I'm told that some of these wreckers' books indicate that only the 90 or 91 will work in this particular application), but I'm thinking that being as this IS a HONDA engine after all, they've probably used this very same engine in other models of their own - ie: maybe Civic. Does anyone know for certain what other models/model years used this same engine? It would be of immeasurable help to me in finding one, by expanding my search parameters.

    Brett
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    This is probably way way too late to help Gary, but just new to this site. Am only familiar with a 90 hatchback, but engine ID position probably the same? About halfway down the block (from top deck to bottom, vertically), on the right side of the block (the side toward the front of the car, or the right side of the engine when viewed from the right side of the car towards the driver's side or from transaxle toward belts), only a few inches to the left of the exhaust manifold/heat shield, you should find a raised 'boss' facing slightly upward to make viewing from above easy. That boss measures about an inch and a half accross, left to right, and about a half an inch in height - clean it off and the engine code should be stamped right into the flat surface of the boss.

    Brett
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    Re kxiong87's post of July 21st, again, this is probably way, way too late to help, but I'd suggest your heater core's got a leak. If you can detect coolant on the front floor on psgr side, OR smell it in the air inside with the heater running and the engine warmed up, OR on a very cool day, the windshield fogs over inside when you put the heating system into 'defrost' mode or any combination of the above, your heater core has definitely got a leak.

    I don't know how fine the tubes are in that particular core, and I wouldn't normally recommend this to a Chryler owner, but try putting in about half the amount instructed on the bottle, of 'radiator stop leak'-type product, and see what happens after the engine has come up to operating temp a few times with the heater running.
    That is a hell of a lot easier than changing out that heater core, believe me! Also, if your temp guage is registering a little higher than was usual beofre this problem developed, its probably due to your coolant level being too low, which you can top up when you put in the stop-leak.

    Brett
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    one data point -- I am original owner of a 1997 GS-R B18C1, now at 160,000 miles. I have changed oil + filter regularly every 3750 miles (twice as often as scheduled), but used only ordinary name brand 5w30 oil. Still have virtually zero oil consumption. I tried one change with Mobil 1 0w-20 as a fuel economy experiment at 150,000 miles and then took it on a 7300 mile cross-country trip (WA to ME to SC and back to WA). Even with this watery oil, consumption was still barely noticeable (say, 1/3 qt on the the whole trip). I am expecting my engine to be pretty healthy still at 200,000 miles, although the rest of the car, especially electrical, is beginning to raise doubts.
  • vore1ervore1er Member Posts: 3
    My car won't turn over, it seems to me that it's not getting gas and that would be the fuel pump. it doesn't start no matter what temp. i just replaced the fuel filter 1,000 or so miles ago.
  • vore1ervore1er Member Posts: 3
    Ok i'm not sure if i posted this earlier my computer sucks. My 94 integra won't turn over it seems like it's not getting gas. the starter works and i have half a tank. i think it might the fuel pump not sure. it doesn't start at no matter the temp out or inside. won't bump start. thanks
  • vore1ervore1er Member Posts: 3
    sorry i just went out to my 94 integra and it started. The only difference is that the outside temp drop about 30 degrees from yesterday . so i don't know. i never heard of a car starting better when it's cold outside.the temp today is 47 .
  • bigal92bigal92 Member Posts: 2
    ok the B18A1 was only used in the 90-95 integra non VTEC models but it dosn't end there from 90-91 the computer system that was used was OBD-0 from 92-95 the computer system was OBD-1 wich means that you would have to convert the wiring harnes to OBD-1 and get an OBD-1 computer or you can us all of the components from the engine you already have on the new engine.

    or if you want to go with VTEC you can get a JDM B16A that came in the JDM intega for like $1100-$1600 plus S&H and it will come with the engine, tranny, ECU (computer) wiring harnes, and all of the components plus you can get them in OBD-0

    B18A1 1.8L 130HP @ 6000RPM & 126 ft-lb @ 5000RPM redline @6500RPM
    B16A 1.6L 160HP @ 7600RPM & 111 ft-lb @ 7000RPM redline @8200RPM
  • dwreillsdwreills Member Posts: 9
    On Jan 2 my 90 Integra LS would turn over but not start. Computer code was 13 (barometric pressure sensor). Outside temp. had risen to about 40f and was somewhat humid. Started fine later in the day and been running fine since. Feb 8 same scenario but code 43 (fuel delivery system) and today car started fine ran about 3 miles and died, same thing, code 43 (Temp about 42f and foggy with all the snow melt). Both new instances car started after waiting with the hood open for about 20 minutes. Any clues anybody? (Has about 227K and normally runs well)
  • integer91integer91 Member Posts: 2
    i no one reason is now that the intake manifold is in the front now there is no heat from the exhuast the manifold is the first thing the air wood hit cooler air little more power
  • integer91integer91 Member Posts: 2
    wat u mean is ur engine is cranking over but not starting cuz if ur engine didnt crank over it wood be ur starter like the other guy said check ur spark first
  • d_kem_16d_kem_16 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know where to get an intake manifold for this head type, doin a head swap but the current IM does not match up cuz of the bolt pattern and gasket...... i've been looking for days now and need a hand. this head is pretty rare when you don't buy it as one unit, igot a steal on the head tho!!! :P
  • kirama1kirama1 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know which belts are which in the 92 Integra, and if they are easy to fix yourself? The belt that broke on mine broke while it was idling, and there is still a sliver of the belt still turning. Im afraid to risk driving it, so im not sure if it will drive. Its the lowest belt I can see, and its attached to three pulleys.
  • wavtamwavtam Member Posts: 1
    2001 with 100,000. Just recently I've notice that the car will start immediately, but will stall when I drive to the end of the street with stop sign. A little hard to start then. Once I reach normal operating temperature, no problems. Then pattern repeats daily. Your thoughts. WAVTAM
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    I'd suggest that first thing to do, is to pull the codes off the ECM, and go from there. There's too many possible causes to even begin to think about, but if there are any codes stored in the OBD system, that'll start you at least in a particular direction.
  • johnshillsjohnshills Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Integra Ls. 174k. Recently it has been makeing a whinning sound kinda like gears grinding or a worn out bearing. it sounded like it was comeing from the distributer so i changed it. the sound is still there. its not so bad when i add thicker oil. what could it be......
  • duckyzduckyz Member Posts: 1
    In my 1992 acura integra LS I have replaced the radiator, thermostat and all the hoses, and still have a leak coming from where the top radiator hose comes hooks into the engine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks
  • dwreillsdwreills Member Posts: 9
    Are you sure it's not a power steering pump noise? Sometimes they whine when low on fluid or they're on the way out. But if you're adding thicker oil and reducing the noise I'd look at cam bearings.
  • dwreillsdwreills Member Posts: 9
    If you've replaced "all" the hoses then check if the flared "pipe fittings" that the hoses fit over are clean. All the older Honda/Acura motors I've worked on develop a corrosion problem on these fittings that seems to be a combination of rust and crystalized antifreeze and it can be quite hard. Sometimes a hose won't seal around this formation because it grew in the old hose and the hose deformed to accomodate it. Hence no more flare. If you have this junk on your fittings, scrape, sand or file it clean and if your fitting is badly pitted after removing the junk smear some high temp silicone around the fitting before you slip the hose on. Sometimes the spring clamps are weak too and I've had to resort to American type screw clamps to get enough pressure to seal it. I also had one where the leak was from a split in a tiny intake manifold heating hose just below the upper rad hose that made it look like it was coming from the rad hose. Had the rad hose off three times before I realized where it really was coming from.
  • 90acuraintegra90acuraintegra Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    1. all liquid levels are great
    2. believe starter works
    3. spark plugs are in great condition

    engine turns over but does not start; therefore, I believe fuel is not getting to the engine. Spark plugs are sparking and all else is well. Not sure what may be wrong, please any guidance is greatly appreciated. I am mechanically inclined and am an egineering student. Please respond via here or andy_kosmala@hotmail.com

    thanks for any help
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Try this... before you try to start the car, just turn the key to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump running. If you do hear it, then try to start the car. If it starts after the "fuel pump trick" I'd wager the pressure regulator that keeps pressure in the fuel line (like overnight so there's fuel at the engine to start up in the morning) is leaking off that pressure.

    If you don't hear the fuel pump running (should sound sort of like an electric motor humming), then the fuel pump is likely the cause.

    If you hear the pump running and it still doesn't want to start, then you must be looking at either something preventing the fuel from getting to the engine or a spark issue.
  • jeffreyc42jeffreyc42 Member Posts: 7
    Does your "check engine" light stay on or off after turning ignition on?

    If it stays on its your grounds. This is an issue that I have not found very many Acura dealers or owners know about.

    If you have questions contact me at jeffcinys@gmail.com.

    BTW I believe the fuel pump is under the rear passenger seat, drivers side.
  • wise7wise7 Member Posts: 1
    Hi:
    I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS with a 4 cylinder engine non Vtec. The car is a great car and I have not had any problem with it except recently it is overheating constantly. I have changed the thermostat a couple of times and the car still overheats. Any idea what could it be?
    Thanks,

    Charles Wisniewski
    tigreinc@earthlink.net
    203-792-81111
  • amy732amy732 Member Posts: 1
    my car was over heating a month ago, and it sat in my drive way like that up until 2 nights ago, we replaced the coolant line, put oil in it, anti freeze, transmission stop slip, radiator stop leak, and it sounded good in my drive way, idiling was low, not as much smoke in the back. we then took it for a test drive and sure enough it was over heating again. what else could it be. my water pump is fine
  • craig904craig904 Member Posts: 1
    my car would not start or turn over so I checked the fuse#18 starter signal fuse it is hot but the wire to the starter was not so I ran a wire from fuse#18 to the starter and now it will turn over but no fuel to the injecters. so I checked the main fuel relay to see if the yellow/black wire had continuity and power to the pump it does untill you turn on the key thin it has no power or continuity to the pump. I can run a wire from the battery to the pump and here the pump working but no fuel to the engine. I know there is a fuel press. regulator control solenoid could that stop the fuel from reaching the injecters? I can spray starting fluid in the intake and it will start till the starter fluid runs out thin it stops. Thanks for any sugestions, Craig904
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    How do you know that your water pump is fine? You don't mention as to whether or not you checked and/or replaced the engine coolant thermostat, or the engine coolant temperature sensor, which turns your cooling fan on and off, as needed. Did you hear your cooling fan running at all? Also, there are fuses and/or relays involved in the cooling fan circuit, as well as an 'after-run' timer I believe. Get yourself a service manual - they're only $25.00 and have all the info you'll need to solve this - Haynes part number 12021.
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    Sounds to me as if the ECM or if equipped, your alarm, system might have set a DTC or disabled the starter and fuel circuits, respectively. If not, check your starter solenoid and/or relay, and ignition switch for getting current through to the solenoid. Just finished replacing the electrical part of the switch in a '92 Accord, as it was bad order just enough to disable the ignition system immediately on the return of the key to 'run' position after it started, of course causing it to quit.
    Just because you can hear the fuel pump MOTOR running, does not necessarily mean that the PUMP is working. Get yourself a service manual - it will have all the info that you'll need to solve this problem - they're only $25.00 - Haynes part # 12021. I've been troubleshooting my nephew's '90 hatchback for the past four years, but not familiar with the '93 particularly, but I've forty years experience as a back-alley mechanic, and find these manuals very helpful, if not a downright necessity. It'll tell you how to check fuel pressures and all sorts of other things 'on the cheap', and how to clear the DTC off the ECM after you pull any off, etc. All you have to do is be able to read and understand - teach yourself.
  • eroc1eroc1 Member Posts: 4
    I replaced the fuel pump 3 weeks ago, and the car failed yesterday. Turning over fine--no fuel from the filter being pumped--followed notes on checking relay--seems okay--clicking as described--check engin goes off and second click occurs as described. I have voltage, as described on the 1 and 2 ports on the relay with switch off--and voltage at 1, 2, and 5 with switch on. also have voltage at sending unit under rear seat. Must remove tank to check pump--but I feel it's getting power, but no "whizzing" of pump when switch is turned of, and definetly no fuel out of filter going to injectors. Can this pump REALLY have failed already? HELP????
  • 97teg200897teg2008 Member Posts: 1
    hey i own a 97 acura integra rs and ive been having an odd problem lately. usually im pretty good with mechanics but not this time around. the cars a 5 spd. and wen im in a lower rpm in a higher gear and i really get on it it sputters. the only way it doesnt do this is if i drive it like a grandpa. its only when i get on it that it sputters and shakes a little and has trouble gettin up to speed. everyone tells me its a fuel problem but i need expert help
  • jordanf60jordanf60 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 integra ls 5 speed an just recently it has started hesitating and jerking and its getting progressively worse. I think it might be an engine problem but im not sure.
  • lodewickuslodewickus Member Posts: 2
    '90 B18A1

    Last year I ran the car out of fuel by mistake since my fuel gauge needle was broken and not giving the correct indication to the fuel level.

    Since then I've had other issues such as a cracked heat gasket where I had the block swapped out for a 'new' one. I figured the problems with the car would be resolved with this, which it was, until I got the fuel tank to half, at which point the car would nearly die when coming to a stop and idling. Starting is fine, driving is fine, idling itself is somewhat OK (it bounces between 600-750), but the problem comes up with coming to a complete stop. It's almost as if the fuel injection is forced to kick in to get fuel in to the engine.

    The other issue since this occurrance is that the engine light would pop up and I'm getting a 43 on the ECU. At first I figured it'd be an issue with the new resonator and extractors I had put on, but then remembered I had this issue last year already before the new resonator and extractors. If I pull over, turn off the engine then back on, the light goes away but comes back on after cruising for a while again.

    The engine light will pop up when cruising at a set RPM (3k about, no matter the gear), but driving randomly (city driving) it doesn't come on at all. The idling to near death coming to halt doesn't happen unless the fuel tank is half full.

    I have a strong feeling that I have the original O2 sensor (car has less than 100k miles, new engine is 30k), so that'd probably need to be replaced, but I am sure that this is not causing the idling issue.

    Any ideas would be most appreciated!
  • lodewickuslodewickus Member Posts: 2
    I had the same issue before changing my block since I left the problem for too long.

    My issue was I had a crack in the heat gasket between the block and head, which caused coolant to flow in to the engine. The more coolant that got in there, the worse it got.

    You can check this by looking at the spark-plugs. If the dirt on them looks like foam/white fluid, this is it.

    It can also be the fuel pump on its way out, you'd need to check the fuel pressure and see if what the values are against what you'd expect the values to be.
  • brettlbrettl Member Posts: 9
    Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery problem, alright. First, check your fuel lines from tank to underhood to be sure there are no kinks/squashes in it, and consider changing out the fuel filter unless its already been done recently, for all they're worth. If you don't already have a service manual, I strongly suggest you get one - Haynes #12021 for about $25.00 - it'll be a hell of a help, and it'll pay for itself the very first time you use it, by preventing your making silly mistakes by not having the knowledge you need beforehand. After you get the manual for the applicable info, check your fuel pressure, pressure regulator and O2 sensor, all of which you'll be able to do yourself with the proper info.
    And it sounds to me like your IAC and FITV need some attention to fix your idling/near-stalling situation; I'd suggest that you do this right after checking your fuel lines and changing the filter, then check out the other stuff, because if the lines are okay, this might be the primary cause of it not running properly thru all rpm ranges; I don't think that getting down to or below a half-tank of fuel has much to do with it. For info on this that you can probably do yourself, go to
    http://www.acuraworld.com/index_files/diy/unproc/integra/Idle%20Fix.html

    Good luck. Give'er a try.

    dibble
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