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Dodge Caravan Instrument Panel

24

Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Where did you get the BCM, Jimmy?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    at ac junk yard in cleveland ohio ridge rd still working great
  • rob112rob112 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Caravan. On top instrument panel a red dot warning light is on intermittently. The van will start perfectly but only stay on for about 3 seconds. This has happened several times. I have had the codes checked and it said problem with modulator in key or modulator in power antenna. I changed to another key with no help and it does not have a power antenna. I wait a couple of minutes and it works fine, although the red light still comes on occasionally. Does anyone know what this red dot is. I know it is a warning light but what is it warning!!! A red dot to the right of center on the top instrument panel. Any help
    Rob
  • aedaed Member Posts: 8
    I've posted on another forum page and received no help. Perhaps someone here can respond.

    The dimmer switch on my '98 GC Sport has apparently failed and I cannot figure out how to access and remove it. It is located low on the left of the dash next to the headlight switch.

    Any response will be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    The "red dot" is usually associated with a security or immobilizer system. If the vehicle is equipped with an engine immobilizer system and it has malfunctioned, the engine will shut down shortly after starting the vehicle. When I used a non-chipped "door key" for my 2007 Subaru, it took less than 3 seconds to shut down. But, I could use the door key if I had a chipped key hanging on the same ring (and therefore right next to the ignition).

    Since you say it functions the same with either ignition key, my guess is that the receiver or something else related to the immobilizer system is intermittently failing: Possibly wiring, possibly the body control module, possibly... ?.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • whateg0whateg0 Member Posts: 3
    I've read all (or at least most) of the posts about the instrument panel going dead. Our '99 T&C has a dead instrument panel now. But something that happened to us, I didn't see in any of the posts so far. For the first couple of days that the speedo, tack, other gauges didn't work, the right-most digits of the odometer and the right-most characters in the electronic shift indicator were lit. Here's something else strange. One of the things that my electronics instructors instilled in me is to always check the power supply. So, I check the voltage at the J-block. According the the Chrysler service manual from the library, there should be a wire (blk/or IIRC) coming from the ignition switch to the J-block. Then it goes through a diode and the fuse and back out the J-block to the instrument panel. So, I have 11.7V at the blk/or wire going in. I have 11.0V coming out to the instrument panel. But the fuse (F2) that I believe is supposed to be in the middle - well, I can't find any voltage at either side of it. I don't want to take the thing out if I don't have to, and it looks like everything is right, except for the no voltage at the fuse itself. Any ideas?
    Thanks!!!
  • sjasja Member Posts: 11
    This is a very inexpensive thing to try, posted in Dec '07. You probably have read this, and as a follow up 5 months later, the instrument cluster and gages all still work, knock on wood...

    The only thing you have to lose is the time it takes to try the re-soldering of the connections.

    I am finding this very difficult to comprehend. $12.00 for a 15/30 watt soldering iron at Radio Shack, an hours worth of work, and the instruments now work. I could not tell which connection was bad so I touched the iron to the backside of where the black connector goes into the panel. Then took the panel further apart and touched all the connections for the lower connector. The gages and rear window wiper work. The ABS light is out and after disconnecting the battery for awhile, the Service Engine Soon light extinguished.
  • whateg0whateg0 Member Posts: 3
    Yeah, I saw that. And I thought about it. Just haven't had a chance to really dig too deeply into it. My wife won't leave it parked long enough. I'd like take it to work with me. I work for a test equipment manufacturer and have access to very expensive soldering irons (not that the solder knows what's melting it) and microscopes for inspecting boards. I suppose if the van breaks down completely, she'll let me take it apart.

    If that doesn't work, I'll move on to the BCM and checking it's soldering. I guess it's possible that there could be a bad transistor from some other posts. That's all easy enough to check. Sure is a pain to get to, though.
  • creepingdeathcreepingdeath Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. I have a 1997 G. Voyager. Last year the lighting in the cluster was flickering and finally it went out and nothing worked. Started to disassemble the cluster, checked the wire clips and plugs. Not them. Took apart the cluster itself and looked at the circuit board (on a whim). Noticed what looked like overheated or 'burnt out' solder joints. Cleaned out the joints, re-soldered, re-assembled, tested and everything was as good as new, and so far, no further problems. ;)
  • whateg0whateg0 Member Posts: 3
    Well, I took the instrument cluster out and looked at it, and found...

    nothing.

    It looked fine, so I put it back in and everything worked. I'm guessing it was a bad connection at the wire? I don't know. It works and that's that. Now on to the power windows...

    Dave
  • cheeahcheeah Member Posts: 1
    While I was waiting to repair a problem with my van (approx.3 weeks wait), my battery went dead. When I got the repair done and boosted my battery, my instrument panel didn't work. I have no spedometer, odometer, gas guage, or gear shift indicator. I have since checked all the fuses, unhooked the battery and reconnected, but can't seem to find the problem. I have called a dealership and they said that alot of caravans are having their fuse boxes replaced due to corrosion which will cost approx. 600.00. I am a single parent so that cost is very difficult for me. Can anyone possibly give me some other ideas to try to fix this? Thanking you in advance.
  • pcroteaupcroteau Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone found a solution for this? I'm having the same problem with my Caravan
  • pagiraldopagiraldo Member Posts: 2
    my instrument panel light just went out for the second time, the first time it went out my mechanic reset the computer and it came back on. I donot want to ask my mechanic to reset the computer , does anybody know how to do it thanks
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    all you have to do is take your battery terminals off for a little while and it will reset
  • pcroteaupcroteau Member Posts: 2
    I did take the terminals off for a bit over an hour and it didn't work. Any other idea's?
  • johenmarjohenmar Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like the Body Control Module (BCM) took a dump. They're about $50.00 at a junk yard, $500.00 for a rebuilt one from a dealer. It's located behind the fuse panel under the dashboard.

    If you get a used one, make certain that the part numbers match.

    Good luck!
  • t0mmydt0mmyd Member Posts: 1
    Hi All!
    I just picked up a 94 Voyager 154k on it. The vehicle was well maintained. I have an issue with the gas guage which is baffling me. Intermittantly the guage will go from the proper amount and then fairly rapidly go down and flatline and the low fuel warning light comes on. The battery was changed recently (and this was a recent issue for the previous owner) The alternator is charging properly as I checked this earlier. The airbag light also stays on. I have removed power from the system to reset the ECM, and the trouble persists. The fuses and relays check out.

    Can you lead me in the right direction? Any assistance is greatly appreciated

    TIA
    Tom
  • cloud0528cloud0528 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan and just recently started having problems with my instrument panel not coming on until I have driven several miles. Does anyone know why this could be happening and what I can do to fix it?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Likely the "solder issue," which seems to be quite common. I have it on my van. The instrument cluster goes dead periodically, and stays off for indeterminate amounts of time. No other affect on the functionality of the vehicle. I also found, while it was off for many days, that the odometer does not log miles during that time (big surprise, huh?!).

    I find that a quick smack on the top of the dash above the instrument cluster often wakes it up, but it is becoming increasingly stubborn about working as time goes on. I really need to just pull out the cluster and solder the joint of the main connector, but I have plenty of other things to get done. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • oceansoul41oceansoul41 Member Posts: 3
    I have read every message in the electrical forum.

    I just rec'd the van today, as my jeep died:( Soon as it got dark, I said oooh lets take the van for a drive so I can see what the dash lights look like. Well, the ONLY lights that come on are the odometer, tripometer, and the digital clock on the radio. All the instruments work fine, there is just no lights. Is there only one light for the instrument panel AND the radio/AC etc?

    Is this a lightbulb issue, a fuse issue, or a soldering issue?
    I am taking back the car tomorrow, I was hoping to give the mechanic some heads up insight.

    Thanks in advance,
    angela
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    Angela--The interior light dimmer switch located just to the left of the steering wheel and to the right of the exterior light switch is probably in the OFF position (down). Rotate that control upward and I believe you will fix your "problem". A discussion of this and other light controls should be somewhere around page 132 or so in your owners manual.

    C.B.
  • oceansoul41oceansoul41 Member Posts: 3
    Believe me I tried all that, the dimmer switch makes the odometer reading brighter, but still no dash lights/instrument panel lights. BTW the tail lights work fine.
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    The next thing I would try would be to remove the fuse marked IOD ( 10 amps, lower left of the Fuse/Relay Center as you are viewing it) for 30 seconds or so, then replace.
    The IPM Fuse & Relay Center is located under the hood between the battery and the firewall near the Drivers side fender and the cover is easily removed by pressing in on a couple of clips.

    What this does is reboot the Body Control Module which controls many things including the lights in question. You won't harm anything else by doing this and it could solve your problem. You will have to reset your clock afterward.

    C.B.
  • oceansoul41oceansoul41 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you! I tried the 10 amp earlier, and it didnt work, but after reading your post I tried it again, and yahoo it worked. I can't wait to tell my hubby who said it was something serious.

    I love you guys (and gals) here!

    ~angela

    BTW I had no idea there were 5 individual bulbs in the instrument cluster, I always thought it was just one big one.. :blush:
  • gkaputagkaputa Member Posts: 1
    I need to know the phone no. for a repair facility for this circuit board.
  • egallegoegallego Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the instrument cluster with a analog shift indicator for my 1999 caravan, for a instrument cluster of a 1999 - 2000 caravan that has a electronic shift indicator. I want to know how to make it work. Do I need an addition part for this or do I need to upgrade the computer to my vehicle.
  • wickjrwickjr Member Posts: 2
  • wickjrwickjr Member Posts: 2
    For the past few weeks my temp, speed, and fuel gauges have been going dead intermitently. The instrument panel backlight is fine, as are the indicator lights above the panel. For a while, I could hit the dash above the gas gauge and the panel would come back on and the door chime would sound. Yesterday the panel went out and will not come back on. To make matters worse, apparently hitting the dash was not the right thing to do, as the fuel gauge needle is now broken off. How much trouble is it to remove the gauge cluster and replace it, and will this likely fix the issues I was having?
  • sjasja Member Posts: 11
    You may not have to replace it. If you're mechanically inclined, it's not difficult. You take the entire instrument panel out, take a soldering iron to the back of it and just touch each solder joint. You can take it all apart also to put the needle back on the fuel gage.

    I had the same issue awhile back and had read through here about the weak solder joints. Mine has been working ever since.

    Good luck.
  • vcrunkvcrunk Member Posts: 1
    I did this yesterday on my 2003 Caravan to fix the dimmer issue with instrument panel lights. Seemed to work except after starting my van once - it now will not start. Does anything else need to be reset? I tried jumping it but nothing. The lights flash rapidly when I try to start it and it clicks like it might with low or dead battery but I was able to start it once. At the same time I try to start all gauges jump all over - my tach goes up high speedometer does the same but no start. I ONLY pulled the mentioend IOD fuse lower left in fuse box. Thanks for any help.
  • rbergstromrbergstrom Member Posts: 2
    pmack1,

    I have taken my BCM out of my 98 grand caravan, in which the speedometer still does not work, even after repacing it from a scrapyard. Otherwise, the van will start, but does have the ABS light on. I have PN P04801062AC for the BCM.

    I have the cover off and see that the components are almost all surface mount. On th top I do not see the 330 ohm resistor you are talknig about. Is it on the back? I see one resistor (331) which sits on the back near the blue connnect near the pins of a component identified as Z5 on the front.

    Thanks,

    Rich
  • saviorsavior Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have problems with my 2000 Dodge Van. All the gauges and the gear selector PRND3L light have packed up. The ABS and the Service engine lights of the information center are permanently on. In addition, the rear wiper stopped working. Checked fuses and okay.
    A step by step remedy will be highly appreciated. Please, I need help urgently.
    Savior.
  • mboemmelsmboemmels Member Posts: 7
    I have a 99 grand caravan with all of the guages quitting intermittently and then you thump the dash and they come back. now the rpm and speedo are way off ( 2k rpm higher than actual and 30mph higher than actual) what can I do or where can I get another rebuilt cluster or whatever has gone out. thanks! love the van hate the little crap that keeps going wrong.

    mike2626@hotmail.com
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    i would try to replace the bcm first mine had all the same problems and i took the cluster out first it wasnt that so replaced the body control mod and its all worked every since the only thing diferrent is my shifter still worked its a meatel box under the dash with a few plugs in it only two screws hold it 25 bucks at the junk yard good luck
  • doublea3doublea3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Plymouth Van and intermittently the ding ding alarm goes off after starting and stays on for about three minutes---not other instrutment light are on. The doors are closed and this not a seat belt issue. Sounds like it maybe the instrument panel circuit board or the BCM module. Anyone have this type problem?
  • preacher1120preacher1120 Member Posts: 2
    I just tried this hack and it completely solved the same problem and my wife thinks I'm heroic! Thanks!

    Sam
  • launchohiolaunchohio Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager that whenever it wants to (maybe a day to 4 weeks) the van will not stay running.
    When this happens everything on the van works except the electronic mileage and trip meter will not light up.
    The van starts and runs for about 5 seconds then stalls out it will restart then stall for about 5 times then it will not crank at all BUT everything else is ok IE:radio,lights ect.
    When you let the van just sit as short as 10 minutes and sometime as long as overnight the next time you turn the key the electronic mileage and trip meter will light up like it is supposed to and the van starts and runs fine then the next time or maybe weeks later it will do the very same thing again
    Every once in a while the electronic dashboard will flat line
    It shows no error codes when running fine and of course it is never close to a repair station when it won’t start.
  • rbergstromrbergstrom Member Posts: 2
    I own a 98 Grand Caravan had a very similar problem, except it would occur almost every day. Thank goodness I'm not totally dependent on this vehicle for everyday use! For some reason, if I disconnected the battery and removed the Power Train Control Module's connections and then re-connect, it would turn over. I also later found a wire just underneath the lower steering column cover. Somehow it was not tight enough. It is just a simple black wire with a ring lug on the end, that connects to the frame under the panel for a ground connection.

    Although the engine would turn over and I could drive the van, the gauges would not work or be very erratic. Replacing the speedometer from a junk yard did not help, Also the famous resolder job of the connector on the back of speedometer did not help either, although some have claimed to find cracked solder joints on this connector.

    This is what fiixed my speedometer gauges and lights not working, and possibly the engine not starting. The problem is in the body control module under the dash on the left side by the drivers feet. This is a pain to get out and patience is required. Once the body control module is removed, take the cover off to remove the circuit board. On the back side, there are many surface mounted components. With a magnifying glass look for a 300 ohm resistor (301 will be the marking). For mine, it was the only one there. Carefully unsolder it from the board. Replace it with any off the self 300 ohm resistor. What helped to take all the dash appart (and other dead end attempts to fix) was the Chiltons repair manual from the library for the caravan and voyager 1996 - 1999. See the chassis electrical for taking out much of the dash in order to get to the BCM.

    For this fix, I give credit to the some technician on this board (and other forums) who said he works on the body control modules. Apparently, the resistor is opening up, and it prevents communication to the speedometer from the BCM.

    As always, for safety, disconnect the battery before doing any of this. It would hurt to have the airbag go off :sick:
  • preacher1120preacher1120 Member Posts: 2
    In my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport, when I use the turn signal in either direction the signal lights do not work and the power cuts off to the dashboard. The instrument cluster goes dark and all gauges set to zero. Then, when I return the turn signal switch to the middle position ("neutral") the dashboard powers up and everything is fine. The problem is NOT intermittent and happens every time. :cry: :confuse:
  • handyman49handyman49 Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone. I also own a 2002 Dodge caravan, and I had the exact same problem as preacher 1120, except that by now, my instrument cluster and upper panel are completely dead. Nothing will come on no matter what I do. I have replaced the BCM, TCM, checked all the fuses, etc. Everything else in my van works fine. My mechanic is at a loss as what could be the problem. jmcdonnel at post #10 mentionned a "BDM". I was wondering if that was a typo error, meaning "BCM" or if it is yet another component that should be checked. Any help on this is greatly appreciated.
    Handyman49. :cry: :confuse:
  • thedudychacrewthedudychacrew Member Posts: 2
    Ok I have two seperate issues. I have a 2002 Chrysler Town and Country and some of the lights dont come on. I remember when we first got it everything lit up on the dash and heat- a/c and radio but now only the light clusters and some of the dash lights come on. What could be the issue?

    I also have the 98 Plymouth Voyager and am having the flatline issues. I don't have the doors getting locked and I can't hit the dash and have it come back to life. I have just survived with it. It seemed that when I drove it to work at night (I work overnights) that it would be dead but when I started it in the morning to come home it would work fine. But not today. I checked the fuses and nothing. I read JMcconnell say something about a replacement BCM offered by Chrysler? Is that still the case or do they not give a dang now that they are folding?

    I need help with this. I don't like driving with out knowing where my gas gauge is at and how fast I am driving. I have a feeling its the BCM since thats what everyone is saying but I don't want to pay 250+ to get it replaced. Any ideas? I am not very soder apt. Thanks for the help.
  • thedudychacrewthedudychacrew Member Posts: 2
    I say have him check the motherboard for the electrical system. There is a solder that needs to be resoldered and it will work fine. So says "98 Voyager Dashboard Issues SOLVED by 98voyager1 "

    I would try that. It would say you headaches.
  • handyman49handyman49 Member Posts: 3
    My problem is finally solved. Under the main fuse box, in the engine compartment, there was a plug-in for all the wires connecting to it. A friend of mine, who knows his way in electronics, found that that plug-in was severely corroded. When he tried to clean the corrosion, my PW's and heater blower stopped working. I bought a new fuse box, which is very expensive, and now everything works again. I would just like to know why would the Chrysler engineers decide to install electronics exposed to the elements. It was a stupid decision taken by them... ;):)
  • cardisciplecardisciple Member Posts: 3
    I have scanned through the messages of related problems, but none are quite exactly the same of what I'm experiencing.
    My 2000 Plymouth Voyager's instrument panel has been doing weird stuff lately. The speedometer often will go flat, as well as the temp. and fuel gauges (although not always together, often it is the speedometer alone). My odometer often will blank out as well or get brighter, and my seat belt sign will come on at times.
    This is were it gets interesting... If I have my foot on the gas for some time, the gagues may go flat, but as soon as I lift my foot off the gas pedal all the gauges come back on! Also, if the gauges go flat while I have the vechile in park, as soon as I shift it into a gear all the gauges come back on again.
    Hitting the dash does not bring the gauges back on- either they come on again unprovoked, or I use my shifter or gas pedal trick as mentioned above.
    I don't mind this so much, except when I took the van in for emissions inspection, it could not pass because the OBD stopped communicating. The inspector stated it started to communicate, but when the gagues went flat the communication connection failed. I wonder if this is all related some how. But how? Is it the Instrument Panel Cluster, the BCM, or the PCM? I have limited time as I need to get this reinspected soon. Please help! (Also, the other day my rear windshield wiper came on just once all by itself. Wierd. Is all this related, or am I dealing with a plethora of problems?) :confuse:
  • cardisciplecardisciple Member Posts: 3
    Well, I tried a BCM (same part number) I got from a scrap yard, as well as a cluster from a scrap yard, but niether of these fixed the problem. I also found that when I shake the van I can get the gauges to come back on, but shaking the van cannot cause the gauges to go flat. I am not sure how this is all connected: Shifting the gears has an effect (particularly shifting into reverse); turning the stearing wheel while the van is in park also have proven to bring the gauges back; and as I stated in the previous post, while driving if the gauges go flat I can let my foot of the gas and they come back. What's the connection (no pun intended). I need to figure this out asap! :confuse:
  • jantt5914jantt5914 Member Posts: 1
    Do you know of anyone in the Winston Salem, NC area that knows about this problem and recommend someone?
  • ozzievanozzievan Member Posts: 1
    Dash lights, fan, radio, remote lock all work. Battery and starter have been tested good. Nothing happens when ignition key is turned. I suspect the engine imobilizer or the BCM. Does anyone have a suggestion? Can the imobilizer be reset? Does the BCM need to be replaced?
  • molochmoloch Member Posts: 4
    I myself own a 2002 Dodge grand caravan sport like preacher1120, and I have the exact same problem as preacher1120 and handyman49.

    Now, my instrument cluster and upper panel are completely dead. It would somewhat try to reboot itself after a while on the road, but simply go back dark in a matter of seconds.

    I was wondering if you had found any other alternatives than changing the fuse box.

    I also checked the single black wire connected on the frame as stated by rbergstrom, but its all good.

    Thank you
  • handyman49handyman49 Member Posts: 3
    Hi there moloch. Apparently, it is the connector under the fuse box that gets full of corrosion. One of my friends tried cleaning it, but it caused more problems. The replacement of the fuse box is the only solution. A cheaper solution would probably be to find one in a scrap yard. The symptoms you are describing are exactly the same as in my van. I just wish that I had changed that fuse box first. Good luck. :)
  • molochmoloch Member Posts: 4
    thank you handyman.

    I guess I will check the local scrap yards tomorrow and hope to find a good looking fuse box. In the mean time, I will try to remove it and check for signs of corrosion in the connectors to the fuse box.

    Thanks
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