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Comments
i have to crank the engine over three times to start it, or one good 10-15 sec one to start it. it fires during the crank over.
when this problem started occurring the check engine light intermediately comes on, at the same time the light is on the truck runs ruff, mostly this happens in the morning. so when the light is on it runs ruff when no light, it runs good, and the hole time its takes 3 good cranks to start.????????????
any help much appreciated...
If the TPS is bad it won't signal the ECM that it needs full as it is telling it that it isnot starting.
I bought my TPS at Advanced Auto for about $30.
Any repair shop should be able to hook up a computer to tell you what degree opening it is showing at idle which will tell you what is up.
Good luck
Regards,
J in Atlanta
Also it will not start all the time, gmc nor mechanic cannot determine why. Last check there where no error codes but they thought it was a corroded ground cable. That did not correct the problem. 4 years and no one can help.
Any Suggestions!!!!
Help!
Jack Ferguson
Atlanta, GA
TOM
Situation, while driving the security light will come on, the fuel gauge will move to empty and the battery light will come on. This occurs randomly. after a while the gas gauge and battery light will go back to normal, but the security light will stay on for a while then go off.
Also it will not start all the time, gmc nor mechanic cannot determine why. Last check there where no error codes but they thought it was a corroded ground cable. That did not correct the problem. 4 years and no one can help.
When I start it after it has sat awhile, it runs incredibly rough - sounds like its hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders only - barely enough power to get out of the driveway. After limping along like this for a few hundred yards it begins to smooth out and after a mile or so - it runs perfectly with no stumbling or misfireing. If I stop and restart while its still warm - runs like a dream.
I was getting a "misfire on cylinder 2 code. I replaced the plugs and have not had another code, but still have the problem described above.
Thanks for any help y'all can offer
ksbast@shaw.ca
Bud
done that did not work
thank you for the reply
2. the computer is sitting on a heat source with a heat sheild that reaaly dose not do the job
3. Have a mechanic that is good with electrical and have him go over all of the electrical grounding
4. you may have to replace the computer that is not cheap
5. be prepared you may never solve the problem
6. feul system may have to be replaced but this is coverd by GM
7. ABS computer may have to be replace , this is covered by GM
8. if your truck has more than 100,000 KM have a mechanic check the timing
chain, the plastic guides inside the timing cover wear out at around the
100,000 km mark part to replace only costs $70.00 but labour will kill you
if you do not catch the bad guides in time it will cost you a cylinder head
9. last but not least THIS IS THE WORST TRUCK THAT GM EBER BUILT
have fun
Problem solved! For weeks now. Apparently it's a wire that comes up from a sensor at the oil pan (or starter?) that feeds power through the dash to the computer, and it commonly corrodes. He said easy to fix, but if I wanted to leave the jumper to put in a 60 or 80 amp fuse as charging circuit was involved.
Does this help anybody? I know it's slim on detail, but it was a miracle for me.
Any help or comments on this would be greatly appreciated.... :confuse: