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Comments
did you get a chance to check your timing? is it still belching back through the air intake? Wishing you fair winds. :shades:
Shawn
during the winter i run lighter grade of motor oil in my s10.
good luck
Spend money on good plugs cap and rotor.. Save on wires and coil.. The system is a high frequency voltage the spark passes through thiner wire easier.. wires dont make a much differance unless damaged.. Mist with water and check for a light show.. Coil doesnt always show as the backside is the fastest point to ground. on most 94-02 s-10s
Wont start when wet... This is a *%*($( Many things can go wrong here. I start with checking the coil first by making the coil ark BLUE at least an inch or so than the coil wire to the distr - #1 on dist to ground-- Most of the time the coil weakens from a hidden crack on the backside. Remove to observe to see ground traces. Corrosion is another factor in the diss cap also the pickup coil and senor. The moisture gets traped easily in the cap and causes problems with all components underneath, Always use high quility electical components not the ones found at auto zone and such stores. The temp sensor and crank sensor also can have an impact on this also telling the engine it is to cool or to warm crank sensor can be cleaned and usualy never is the problem. Have auto zone check all that they can at once. Using an ohm meter and the manual you can check most all sensors on or off the car. Usualy no Codes it isnt a sensor . ELECT or GAS or DISASTER
I good way to test the MAF is to unplug it and see if it runs better or same. Unplugging bypasses and tells the engine that the air is 72 and 50% humidity Never spray anything on the maf excect when cleaning. Use paper towl or shop towel and pure alcohal and water filtered compressed air.
When a code tells you that your MAF is bad it could be the o2's. Always change all the o2's together if one goes bad it caused the others to buildup and makes them slower to respond even thow there is no code. Helps having a tech-2 or a good reader. Also studied new ones compared to ones that were old.. gas+better idle and quicker response when punched
for the carbon and to clean the motor and to get back the gas mileage and a tseafoam through the intake oil and gas When through the intake small amounts at a high idle using 93 octane gas.
Fuel pump failure- Leave the tank full as much as possible- 13 mpg I know its tough. Helps with cooling / easier to draw gas with internal pressure and keeps the water down.
Napa sells a good pump as well as the one from delphi. As good or better than delphi
Airtek and master pumps are only rated for 50 psi initialy and are increased with a capacitor and not copper to cool..Napa Ac delco and delphi pumps I personaly compared to the airtek and master pumps CHEAP !!!! Carter pumps I have never used or examined. Runs best purged at 60+ psi anything lower can cause problems.. Gas cap lowers pressure in some cases and also causes the pump to run harder/hotter
The wires that lead from the pump I have seen them melted along with the top of the pump. Replace with a ground strap and the connector usind the strap alond side. Fuel filters are used up quickly cause the flow of gas is at more pressure theremore causing larger particals to break down and clog the filter quickly. dry gas and additives also clog the filter and are hard on the pump when not used by the bottles instructions.
Any info would greatly appreciated.
Spray carb cleaner down intake and see if it will run for a few seconds. Remove plug wire, attach spark plug, lay on engine ground, crank engine.
Original message: I have an automatic 2000 s-10 with 144,000 miles on it. The truck has some starting problems but overall still runs very well. For several years now the truck takes several cranks to start up and almost always at least three. The truck always starts up but takes sometimes up to 6 cranks, but once in a great while it will start up with 1 turn of the key. I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, EGR valve, and fuel filter. The fuel pump is also still working fine. The truck has also lost power and feels like it sometimes misses and doesnt spark when accelerating. The gas mileage has also dropped off from an average of about 18 to barely 15. I am trying to avoid the mechanic, any suggestions or help would be great, thanks.
Here's what I have
95 Sonoma 4.3 TBI Crank No Start -
replaced, fuel pump, sending unit, both injectors, ignition coil, spark module, pick up coil, checked fuses, new relay, ecu - no change @ all
-injectors do not pulse, there is no spark, there are no codes, ecu is Good, timing chain is in correct position too.
I am @ my wits end
any suggestions, solutions would be great
thanks!
99 has one in the engine compartment fuse block, the legend on the cover will show it.
If you find one in the fuse panel remove it.
Reconnect battery and if it still cranks the relay on starter is bad.