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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

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Comments

  • michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    try replacing the intake [carb]
  • gotheldergothelder Member Posts: 2
    Chevy s10 1996 here and a very similar problem. Pepboys charged me $160 to tell me that something was wrong, but they didn't know what it was. Thats what I told them when I walked in there and then they charged me for it? LOL

    Bought it in September when it was still mostly warm. The rain doesn't seem to cause it to not start, but as soon as it got cold it started having issues. Its automatic and I'm more used to driving manual, but once its started at least I know that it need more gas to keep it started. It shimmies and shakes until I get it moving, then maybe 100yards later it evens out. Three seperate mechanics think I'm nuts cause it always starts when they try it. Automatic is started just by turning the key right? I shouldn't have to pump the gas to get it started right?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    I have read of similar problems. It was cause by carbon collecting on the intake valves and absorbing the fuel on cold start, sorta like no choke.
    I thought I would throw this out for you to mull over.
  • gotheldergothelder Member Posts: 2
    I mention this to my mechanic and then I also mention that on the way home today I slowed down to make a turn and though I had lights I had suddenly lost all other power and the engine had stopped. No warnings, like sputtering, or misfiring sounds, just suddenly wasn't there.

    From that he was now pretty sure it was the trucks computer, and when I told him that the first time we did a engine diagnostic the fuse that let the computers talk was missing, he became certain that it was the computer. I had bought the truck used and we now figure that the dealer or prior own just fudged things to make it sell able. And since the seller did some work on it before I took it home, we think it was him because apparently some of the issues Ive had were noticeable to anyone that knew what an engine was supposed to be like. er that meant not me.

    I'll let you know how the computer change goes. =)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Well on the power loss. That truck is known for ignition switch failure, not the key one but the electrical switch at the lower column.
  • cdennercdenner Member Posts: 1
    1999 Chevy S-10 PU 4.3 ltr. engine, won't start when wet, once it dries out and the weather clears it will start. We've replaced cap, rotor, plugs, fuel pump and fuel injectors. Check engine code of P0300 (random misfire). Can anyone help this is getting very frustrating!
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    How about the ignition wires, not mentioned.
  • dennis36dennis36 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I'm new to this forum and have a real mystery here. I own a 2003 S10 pickup bought new.It has 27000 miles. Three times in past 2 weeks I experienced a no start that seemed all the world like a low battery. Had truck towed home and replaced battery,still would not start. It sounded more like older GM cars that had jumped timing. Let it sit overnight and it fired up in morning. Took it to a very reputable garage in my area,they could replicate problem or suggest any fix.Took it home and drove for a week,and it happened again.Truck had been driven about half an hr and parked. About 1 hr later it would not start,same as before slow hard cranking, volt meter shows better than 12 volts,Let it sit for 5 hrs and fired right up.Been driving it for a week now,and it did it again.Did notice a small drain on battery when hooking up neg batt cable dont know if some drain is normal or not. Anyone got a suggestion
  • adam6479adam6479 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 s 10 zr2 with 129000. If the truck has sat for more than 24 hours in the cold it wont start. It turns over fine, it has fuel pressure, i can smell unburned fuel from the exhaust pipe. I'll try to start it for a few days with no luck. Then it will fire right up on the first try some three days later with no effort other than turning the key. If i drive it every day it is perfectly fine. After i get it started it is fine. The cap, wires and plugs and about 2 years old.
  • awh_1957awh_1957 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy S-10. I killed it and went to restart it. I turned on my key and it would not turn over. My dash instrument lights will not come on, nor will my fuel pump engage. My headlights and dome light as well as radio and horn will function. I put a brand new battery on it and still nothing. Any help will be appreciated.
  • mongorussmongoruss Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I have V6 in my 2000gmc sonoma that will not crank when attempting to start. The dash lights up, under the dash clicks(normal sounds) are there, under the fuse box relays click as well but no sound at all coming from solenoid or starter. This happened twice before in recent weeks, after long attempts at jump starting it did start like nothing was wrong, however this third time it will not crank. I replaced the battery, no fix. I really believe its a bad +battery cable, there is more than one wire on the + side so its possible, the one looks bad and I am going to replace it...Also, where is the starter on the v6 4.3.any help at all would be appreciated
  • hwg101hwg101 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my ’97 S10 V6 2WD. The truck has 185,000 miles on it. If it sits for more that 48 hours, there is a very good chance that it will not start. Then it will magically start on the first try after 3 or 4 days. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor have about 85,000 miles on them. I am curious: Have you determined the cause of your truck’s starting problem?
  • tomygtomyg Member Posts: 13
    On my truck it turned out to be the fuel pump.It would start with starter fluid and i could drive all over town,but the minute i shut it off it would not start.A new fuel pump has seemed to fix the problem.You should be getting at least 60 lbs. of pressure from the pump to the intake.Now i have a dead battery so this is another matter.Its been one thing after another with this truck...Oh well good luck.
  • adam6479adam6479 Member Posts: 2
    i replaced my fuel pump about 15000 miles ago with an oem ac delco pump. i left the fuel pressure gauge on and i have pressure. since my post i have also replaced my coil pack and cleaned the mass air flow sensor still to no avail. starter fluid does not help either.
  • kegger117kegger117 Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 s-10 has 211,897 miles on it! I'm having the same problem as you all describe (random no-start), and here is what I know so far.

    My problem only coincidentaly occurred after I had it serviced for an engine light on and poor idling. They checked/"cleaned" the EGR valve (said it may have been sticking open - which you'll read causes poor idle or even failure to start), replaced the fuel filter (said it was extremely clogged). The truck immediately ran great, but the next day I experienced my first "no-start".

    When we experience the no-start, some of us do two things: 1) keep trying until we eventually wear the battery down, at which point calling for a jump start which somethimes gets the truck going, and thus leads us to mistakenly think its a battery power issue, or 2) keep trying until we flood the engine, which is when you smell raw fuel and it takes anywhere from 1/2 hour to a couple days later when you try to start it and it gets going like no problem.

    Anyway, I took it back to the shop that week and they checked the fuel pressure (apparently was at 36psi), so a new fuel pump was put in. Then it started running poorly again(maybe the EGR that I did not replace), but the truck started alright for about a week, until this morning. After trying to start it a few times in about 10min span, i finally let it sit for about 25mins, and then attempted again to start it. This time, after two extended attempts she finally wound up and caught - just as the Road Service Guy was pulling up to attempt a jump start.

    I haven't figured it out yet, but this weekend I'm going to put in a new set of spark plug wires. A few times in the past the spark plug wire change has done the trick when I had poor idle and performance. As it was explained to me, they get crappy over time - especially the cheaper ones - and what happens is they become more prone to taking on moisture. This is why a warm vehicle (or one thats only sat a few hours) starts right up - because the wires are nice and dry and delivering full power spark. You let it sit a couple of days and the suck in the humidity and are cold and you have trouble starting on the first attempt - and then you end up in situation #1 or #2 i described above.

    I'll let you all know if it works.
  • gettin_leftygettin_lefty Member Posts: 1
    History of problem
    Two weeks ago my service engine light started flashing at a rapid pace. The engine started acting like it was fuel starved or not getting proper spark. I managed to limp home by taking automatic out of gear at stop lights and keeping foot on gas to keep revs up. When I got home I turned engine off -tried to restart--would not start-would crank but NO start.

    Had it towed to local garage-they said their code scanner could not get ECM box to work or could not get codes. Replace ECM box with new one-still same thing. Checked fuel pressure-OK-checked spark to plugs -OK-checkd voltage to injectors-not ok no voltage at all.

    Have tried everything--this 4.3 V6 does not have a crankshaft sensor --has distributor--does anyone have any idea at all what the problem is???

    thanking all in advance
    Mike :sick:

    http://theconservativearmyforumreview.podomatic.com/
  • broper1broper1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 S-10 , 4.3l. 135000mi. Bought this truck new, about 3 years ago it wouldnt start. Turn the key and just a click. Thought it was a bad battery, replaced it and still no start. All the dash lights worked, normal buzzers and sounds, but when you turn the key you just get a click. Starter never even tried to engage. Took it to my mechanic and he said it was a small wire that was loose, and it started fine from then on. He never showed me this wire. Well now its doing this again. Again, I replaced the battery, also have replaced the starter. The fuel pump was replaced 14 months ago. My old mechanic is gone now, so I cant ask him. The local repair shop says he is finding nothing wrong, and no computer codes showing anything. HELP !!!!!!!
  • drbobme1drbobme1 Member Posts: 5
    I FINALLY SOLVED MY SAME EXACT PROBLEM. I had someone look at the coil at night while I started the engine. He noticed an arching at the coil. Upon removal of the coil I found white electrical burning marks at the coil frame on the side. Replaced coil and every thing fine now. On moist days the coil would short to its frame. As the engine heated up the moisture path would evaporate and them would run fine. HYope this helps.
  • mspindermspinder Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 gmc sonoma pick up. At times it will not start. I get absolutly nothing. No click, no lights, no sounds, nothing. It won't start with a jump, still nothing. I have a new battery and starter. But, if I disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and then reconnect it, it stars right up everytime. Any ideas?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    When you have a no start, check with a 12 volt test light to see where you have lost it. A test light is better than DVOM, it puts a load on the circuit. Check the battery cables for corrosion, could be a bad positive cable.
  • mspindermspinder Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the quick reply. When I have no start there is no juice coming to the battery. The minute I disconnect the positive cable and reconnect it I have juice and the truck starts right up. Battery cables are clean and free from corosion.
  • aridgwayaridgway Member Posts: 1
    Hi there is a sevice bulletin 00-06-04-003B rought idle/service engine soon light.
    unstick and clean central sequential fuel injection poppet valves. it is covered under warranty for 10 years or 200,000 miles. i kept getting code po300 and this fixed it.
    hope this will help someone.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Is your key the type that has the security chip on it. I just had a go around with the same symptoms your having with another GM that turned out to be the key chip.
  • mspindermspinder Member Posts: 4
    The truck does not have a rermote door opener. Believe me this is really strange. No power at all, then, disconnect the hot battery cable and reconnect it and it stars with no trouble at all, all kinds of juice.
  • smothjazzsmothjazz Member Posts: 1
    I hope one of you gearheads out there can help me. My 2.2l w/auto 96 S10 with 280K will suddenly die on me. I was traveling at about 100K per hour when it was like someone turned the key off. The speedo went to 0, and I could hear the relays in the glove box ticking away. I coasted to a stop, and I could hear the relays clicking. The speedo seems to be jumping at about the same rate. By process of elimination, it was the most left relay that was clicking. The check engine light also flickered on and off. Turned the key off and on a few times, and the clicking continued. Turned it off for 10 mins, no clicking , tried to start, and it ran as if nothing was wrong. No check engine light. Very interminit, sometimes twice a day, sometimes nothing for 2 weeks. Seems to be better when weather is cold. No change if tank is near full or near empty. Sometimes the truck will not start if sitting for a few hours, but will go after a few hours. Have had it in the shop several times, but no luck. Don't know if it's related, but I have an ABS light on. Could this issue be caused by an ABS speed sensor? Does this truck have a speed sensor? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give. I'm happy my wife isn't pregnet and we had to depend on this truck.
  • bankai247bankai247 Member Posts: 1
    I have just recently replaced my intake gaskets, my engine had "puked" mixing the oil and coolant. after i replaced it and alllowed the sealant to sit for over 24hr , i had changed the oil., and drained the radiator.
    now.
    it wont start. It cranks over has gas, spark, . i cleaned the spark plug holes out ( removed all plugs and turned over a couple of times spitting everything into rags), and allowed to sit for a couple hours b4 placeing new plugs in. i had to turn the rotar on the distributor 180 out cuz it was poofing through the intake, after the 180 out fixed that. but still same situation, the battery is good getting 14-15v has been on a charger most the time to keep it charged.
    basically, I have spark, fuel, and no start, i have also tried using starting fluid as well to no avail,was putting smoke out the exhaust a few times while cranking, i am assuming this has no relation to my actual problem. and to top it all off im in the middle of getting ready to move.
  • kegger117kegger117 Member Posts: 2
    Here is my update. It has been about a month since I replaced the wires (one week after the fuel pump replacement), and its been fine since. I strongly recommend anyone having random starting problems to replace the spark plug wires first. Use the best set that the auto store sells, which are usually only in the $20 range. This is one of the least expensive ways to take a first step at solving your starting problem.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    When you get #1 TDC on the compression stroke is the rotor pointing to #1 on the distributor cap? How many miles does it have on it.
  • mspindermspinder Member Posts: 4
    I thought this would be something kind of easy. There is no response at all, nothing, no click, no lights no juice to the battery, nothing. Then, disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and reconnect it and like magic it starts right up. It does not do this all the time and with no particular pattern. I can't have the only Sonoma that this has ever happened to?
  • rdracing14rdracing14 Member Posts: 3
    I am having trouble with my 97 GMC sonoma 4.3L V6. It is not getting any fire to the coil. I have replaced the coil, distributor, cap, button, pickup, plugs and wires, crank sensor, coolant temp sensor, and swapped out computer. Still no fire but it will turn over. Battery is good. Friend of mine hooked it up to a computer and its not reading any codes! What the heck can the problem be. I would really appreciate any advice because I am out of ideas! Oh and by the way when the truck broke down it backfired and blew out the top of a flowmaster!!!

    Thanks in advance for any advise!
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    You never mentioned ignition module.
  • riddle812riddle812 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 4x4 4.3l vin code W. I'm not getting spark, replaced spark plugs,
    wires, cap, button, ignition mod under button, coil, and coil wire. Is there a crank
    sensor that I'm not aware of? Could the ECM be at fault?
  • neenertruckerneenertrucker Member Posts: 1
    The old 350 V-8's had a problem with the starter bushings in the bell housing tightening up when the engine got warm..... solution,.... change starter bushings..
  • dbruckerdbrucker Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Chevy s-10 with a 2.2 4 cylinder that won't start until I poor fuel into the throttle body and it stays running after that.

    Fuel pressure while cranking is 42 and goes to 45 on start up.

    While it is running the brake light is on and it idles at half throttle.

    All ideas are appreciated.
  • tomygtomyg Member Posts: 13
    I had the same problem with my 92 GMC Sonoma.I changed the fuel pump and it fixed it.Should be around 55 to 60 pds.of pressure when starting.As far as your brake light it may be a sign one pad is worn.Dont know about the idle problem tho.Hope that helps.
  • dbruckerdbrucker Member Posts: 3
    A tech told me that 35 to 40 would work and it is new pump anyway. I even tried pulling it thinking that maybe it was the key switch but it didn't start that way either.

    Thanks
  • slamd99s10slamd99s10 Member Posts: 1
    So I went out to start my truck the other day, and it cranked over and started but immediatly died. Tried a few other times and nothing, so I had it towed home.... yeah im a do it yourself-er. Then I noticed my gauges also werent working, and only the battery light came on, no service engine soon etc. So I replaced the alternator, thinking maybe the stereo drained it, didnt do the trick. Well I gave up for the night, and got back on it the next day, literally did nothing and for some reason it fired right up and i drove it around to make sure it was ok. Brought it back home turned it off, started it again, with no problems. Well today when I went out to start it, back at square one..... only this time, when the fuel pump whined it made a hideous noise like sucking air from either under the hood or the pump itself.... maybe both.... but if it was just the fuel pump.... the gauges would still be working and I am at my whits end..... anyone have any advice? tips? thanks in advance :mad:
  • stiffstickstiffstick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 s-10 2.2 4cyl, always ran fine. The other day out of the blue, the engine died, for no aparent reason. Now it won't start, checked all the easy stuff, spins over fine but no start. Has good batt, alt, and all gauges seems to be normal. Didn't find any blown fuses, what to do next...niterider
  • tomygtomyg Member Posts: 13
    You might check the fuel pump.It should be pushing around 50 to 65 psi.If not time to change it.Good luck
  • nighthawk5556nighthawk5556 Member Posts: 6
    My dad parked his 02 Sonoma after it ran fine. Tried to crank it that night, and it would turn over but refused to crank. Today I checked with a spark tester and we were getting the light on when the plug would fire, but it seemed somewhat dim (maybe just me, can't recall how bright it should be). Checked fuel pump...had good pressure. Chjecked fuel filter and seemed clogged/restrictive. Bought another one, still won't crank. Checked exhaust...no problems there.
    Crazy thing is while it's turning over, it seems every now and then to 'bog' like something's mechanically holding the crankshaft back.....then releases and bogs again. Even with my Ranger next to it running with jumper cables keeping his battery up. We finally tried cranking it so much that smoke rolled out of the starter motor.
    My question is.....is it the starter doing all this, or did we maybe burn the starter up due to an underlying problem? We took Serp belt off and checked all pulleys and turned motor over with just the crank being turned and it still bogs. Anyone got any ideas?............it'll be Monday or so before he gets the new starter. I just wonder what it could be if it still won't crank. Thanks. :lemon: ?
  • nighthawk5556nighthawk5556 Member Posts: 6
    Pressure is right at 60psi. Strange, everything checks out......yet when it's turning over periodically it stops for a sec, then turns over repeatedly again. I can't figure out what's causing the occassional snag. We removed the serpentine and tried and got the same thing. All other pulleys were like new. Crank and starter going it alone and still something acted like it was trying to stop it. I'm kinda lost on this deal........ :confuse:
  • dunc2dunc2 Member Posts: 1
    I have tried for about 4 weeks to get my 1991 sonoma 2.5 going. I lent it to a friend who ran it out of gas. It 's fuel injected so I was not happy to hear that this happened. I have pulled the distributor changed the ignition module, throttle position sensor, O 2 sensor, fuel injector, checked all fuel lines. The only thing left is the fuel pump which is only 1 year old I just put it in. Can it lose pressure from being run out of gas? I put more than 1/2 a tank in to make sure that was not the problem. And if some one pours gas on the fuel injector it will run long enough to burn the gas they pour on it. Help I am at my wits end. And out of money!!!!!!!!
  • nighthawk5556nighthawk5556 Member Posts: 6
    Any more ideas?..............Anyone?...........I'm lost too
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    You already proved it's a fuel problem. Do you hear the pump run for 2 seconds with key on run?
    Try to start it and at the same time have some one hit the bottom of the tank below the fuel pump with a mallet or piece of 2X4, see if it starts.
  • nighthawk5556nighthawk5556 Member Posts: 6
    Mine isn't a fuel problem, lol. I posted before the one about the loss of fuel pressure. Then when I asked for other ideas I ended up under someone else's post...................................... Don't know what kinda problem I got
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Ya, clicked on the wrong one.
  • tony78tony78 Member Posts: 16
    Interesting story, 1st thing to remember is to never jump start a car that has a computer or several computers that operate different systems, the proper way to jump start a comp controlled car is to disconnect the pos/neg cables,then charge the battery, preferably with a trickle charger if the battery is really low (checked with a volt/ohm meter first). The biggest problem with jump starting is that $en$ative and expen$ive electronic systems don't really like to get hit with a voltage spike. As for the starter the maximum time it should spin is about 15 seconds with a 3 to 5 minute cool down time between each cycle, the cycle time is variable as it depends on ambient/radiated temperature (heatsoak). Spark can be tested with GM tool ST-125 (looks like a spark plug with an alligator clip attached) blue spark=good, yellow=weak ignition, as for checking the ignition system follow in this order : plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, igntion module, coil. Hope this helps.
  • tony78tony78 Member Posts: 16
    oops! refer to forest gump, it happens.
  • tony78tony78 Member Posts: 16
    The possible reason the truck wouldn't start after your friend (?) ran it dry was because the fuel lines had air in them, back in the day we called that ' vapor lock' , try bleeding the air from the fuel line, the shop does this at the point where the fuel inlet line connects to the pressure regulator fuel rail assembly, or where the fuel line connects to the throttle body, this can be accomplished by using a vacuum pump (snap-on tools # YA 4000A, or equivalent). caution a flash fire can result if you try and loosen line while engine is cranked, wrong way to bleed air.
  • tony78tony78 Member Posts: 16
    A. volt/ohm meter
    B. test light
    C. compression guage
    D. vacuum pump/guage
    E. torque wrench
    F. screw drivers/phillips/standard/torx
    G.socket set /metric/english/ 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive
    H. wrenchs /box/open end/crow foot
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