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Chevrolet Blazer Trouble Codes

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Comments

  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I would first check or replace the EGR valve on the engine. They can get stuck with carbon deposit in a high milage engine when the vehicle is held at a continuous highway speed above 60 MPH for about three or four miles. That especially occurs after the vehicle has been in slow stop and go traffic for a few months. When the SES light comes on, stop the car, turn off the igintion for ten seconds and the SES light will go out. That is what I have to do on my 1991 S10 Blazer. I fixed the problem by driving at 80 MPH for about ten miles about once a month. Tell the police that you are testing your EGR valve, .I am sure they will understand.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Do you have the code that has been set?

    OC on the temp indicates either a failed temp sensor (behind the grill. You can see it clipped to the radiator support) or a damaged wire/connector. The "OC" means "open circuit".
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    There is a temp sensor located in the drivers side head, just above and between the #3 and #5 sparkplugs. That would be the middle (#3) and back (#5). What does the gauge read when the engine is fully warmed up?
  • b007halenb007halen Member Posts: 5
    i believe that the code is P404. but i could be wrong. someone told me it was my purge valve solenoid :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That code comes back to an EGR issue. Here is some more information:

    GM P0404
  • b007halenb007halen Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2000 chevy blazer with about 197000 miles. my check engine will not go off and it is reading p440
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check the gas cap, and also the hoses and canister behind the drivers side rear wheel. This is an evaporative emissions code, so something is wrong in the capture systems. Look for cracked or broken hoses, most are bigger than a vacuum line and smaller than a heater hose.
  • b007halenb007halen Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2000 chevy blazer and my check engine light has been on for about a month now. i bought a lock gas cap, and replaced a cracked and disconnected vacuum line. what else would it be. and how could i fix it?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440
  • valleygirlkimvalleygirlkim Member Posts: 5
    I had a PO 410 code and my mechanic found a 30 amp fuse for the A.I.R. pump. He was going to replace the pump but after taking it out and testing it, it was okay. Since the new fuse was put in...the light hasn't come back on but it's only been 200 miles. Good luck with your 440 code.
  • valleygirlkimvalleygirlkim Member Posts: 5
    I had a PO 410 code and my mechanic found a 30 amp fuse for the A.I.R. pump. He was going to replace the pump but after taking it out and testing it, it was okay. Since the new fuse was put in...the light hasn't come back on but it's only been 200 miles. Also, I signed up to GM Parts online just in case I need anything, I needed my VIN number to get the proper part - so I'm pricing the kit you mentioned just in case the fuse was not the entire problem. Thanks again
  • bert73bert73 Member Posts: 2
    just check your egr valve, if you want to replace it heres auto repair shop online that will teach you on how to do it.
  • valleygirlkimvalleygirlkim Member Posts: 5
    Rick: Purchased the kit from a local dealer was $51.00 with tax. Had it put on by another shop who charged $100.00. I had a new AIR pump put on about two months prior and the engine light came back; so I purchased the part you suggested earlier. I put just over 175 miles so far and so far so good. The kit was much more extensive then I imagined. I was expecting a hose that would run up and out near the battery; It was much more then a hose. There were two separate electronic connects with two plugs each. I also had my gas tank cap replaced. The dealer suggessted doing that and it was under $30.00. Apparently the rubber seal on the old one was shot. I never thought to look there so I'd thought I mention it. Hope the light stays off. Thanks again!
  • blazieblazie Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My 2001 GMC Jimmy 4X4 on demand, 4.3, SLS, 2 DR has both ABS & Brake lights on dash on intermittently ? The lights never come on when outside temperture is below 35 degrees? Also they may go off by shutting off & restarting engine? Local dealer replaced one bad bearing hub that was making noise but that did not correct the issue? Code they said they found CO265 ?
    I mention to them my ebrake pedal failed to stay down and maybe it was emergency brake partially engaged? They said that would have nothing to do with it because emergency brake is mechanical and this is a differant issue? It was mentioned that maybe it is the ABS Central Control Unit....Big Bucks? Here is my question guys... Does anyone check anything out before just makeing statements? Is there no procedure to follow. Thanks for helping me out, I am a mechanic from the 50's..... Frank
  • lvwitch01lvwitch01 Member Posts: 1
    My Service Engine Soon light came on yesterday. I took it into Goodyear and asked for a diagnostic and an oil change. Oil had not been changed since Sept. 09 (I know, I know) so I thought that might be the problem. The tech did the oil and filter change and the diagnostic. He told me that the coolant temp sensor, thermostat and gasket, radiator hoses, a coolant flush and new radiator cap were needed for almost $500. I had to go to work so I made an appointment to go back in the morning. When I left the light was still on, but after 5 minutes or so it went off. Could it be just that I needed an oil change? I have not had any problems with heat, air conditioning or the temp on the truck getting hot.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited March 2010
    Watch your temp gauge. I have had two of these do this, and what happened was the thermostat failed in the OPEN mode, which is good for not burning up the engine, but not good for warming up the engine fast enough, which on a 2001 (I think. From 2002 on, for sure) will set a check engine light.

    Buy a good Stant thermostat and have it put in. Very simple job on this engine, takes about 10 minutes or so. Clear the codes (Autozone will sometimes let you do this yourself with their tool, but they cannot legally clear the code for you) and see what happens.

    The symptom of this being the problem is the temp gauge never getting up near the 200d mark. On a Blazer, that would be just below the mid-point which is marked 210. Typically, in sub-50d weather the temp will hover around 150-160 which is too cool for this engine to run efficiently. Once corrected, you will probably see a slight bump up in your gas mileage. Both of mine did.

    By the way, did the light first show up when the outside temps got colder?

    Good luck,

    Jim
  • jasonbxjasonbx Member Posts: 2
    Bought the vehicle with 150k miles and the original P0155 code coming up, ( Bank one sensor one ) thought it would be an easy fix. (Prior owner bought it on auction, didn't know any real history.) Replaced the sensor, had the codes reset, it tripped again in about 2 trips. A while later it started to trigger a p0135 and p0141 as well. Basically all 3 o2 sensors tripping almost simultaneously now.

    Local tune-up place said that one sensor tripping could be triggering the other 2. They checked a couple things, confirmed the wiring and fuses were all good. They were getting to the point of guessing a main computer was failing, which I find hard to believe.

    Autozone employee that pulled the codes for me when all three were first tripping mentioned it might be the sensor for airflow coming in that had gone bad. (This was in the middle of a couple different trips to tuneup place while they checked wiring and other basics for me.)

    In the meantime I started down the list of basic things I had planned anyway with the high milage, focused on anything related to exhaust system. I ended up replacing spark plugs myself, which looked used, but no obvious problem. Had a muffler shop replace a section of dented exhaust pipe just downstream from Bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor. Pipe was dented enough to close off at least half the airway, looks like someone hit a big rock at high speed. Was starting to rust badly on kinked area. Had noticed it originally, hadn't realized how badly it was bent.

    Now if I reset codes, all three codes trip in about two driving trips, plus apparently at least once I have had a p0420 code trip, which looks like it could be caused by o2 sensors, or Catalytic converter.

    Any suggestions or tips on what to check next? I'm pretty sure I'm past the ability of my little oil change shop, but not excited about trying to find somewhere that is good at diagnostics. And the guesses I'm getting are all starting to be $200-300 parts, with little certainty.
  • christijochristijo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 chevy blazer. i have went through alot of work on it. Since i have had it i have replaced the motor almost every sensor and so on. Well now all it is doing is turning over. And when we hook it up to read the codes it is tell me code p1100 which i know from what i looked up is MAP sensor. well i replaced it and it is still telling us the same thing and i have replaced it. Im at my witts end and i need some help.
  • gsoszynskigsoszynski Member Posts: 1
    hey what year is your blazer? cause i was wondering where the bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor was located at
  • jasonbxjasonbx Member Posts: 2
    Bank 1 sensor 1 should be Drivers side, just after the exhaust manifold for most years on the Blazer. Bank 2 sensor 1 is passenger side. Sensor 2 is back by the catylitic converter.

    My Blazer is a 2004.
  • max104max104 Member Posts: 4
    can anyone tell me, why my abs light and brake light go on? the brakes seem fine. i have a 2001 chevy blazer, please help.
  • d_ledezmad_ledezma Member Posts: 1
    My husband and I just took his 2000 Chevy Blazer to go get smogged and I did some research on the trouble codes but I still haven't received any good answers on what these trouble codes mean and exactly what and where they are... can anybody help... ?? please.. the codes are:

    Emissions related power train DTC's, Mode 3
    Electronic Control Unit ID: 10
    P0154- 02 Sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0155- 02 Sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P1153- Manufacturer specific code

    Continuously Monitored Systems DTC's, Mode 7:
    Electronic Control Unit ID: 10
    P0155- 02 Sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P1153- Manufacturer Specific Code...

    Does anybody know what these mean? I am going crazy trying to understand what this is... somebody please help???

    Thank you sooo much in advance...

    Danielle :)
  • ridinrayridinray Member Posts: 1
    88 blazer will show service engine soon light when running down road. Truck will start to stall and lights go out. Will do this on and off a half dozen times. Dosen't quite die, but when I pull over to check it, it will not start. No service engine soon light, no nothing. Will take a bit and start. Book states trouble shoot the two circuits (439 & 440), but I don't know where they are located. Any help on this would be appreciated. Everytime I think I fixed the problem, it reappears. Or if your familiar with this problem and know a fix, that would be great. Thanks for your time on this, Ray.
  • forboston22forboston22 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys-
    I recently replaced my TCC Solenoid in my 98 Blazer. It ran fine for a couple of days, and then my light came back on, and it is now having issues again. It feels like it doesn't want to pick up and shift into gear, but once it gets past about 40+ mph, it feels fine. All that I've read has be leaning me towards the ECT Sensor for the coolant, but I'm not sure.

    Has anybody else had this issue and if so, can you please help me out!
    BTW, I didn't start having these issues until my radiator busted and then I replaced it, then the TCC went out and now this issue. :cry:
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