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Pontiac Grand Prix Key cannot be removed from ignition

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Comments

  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    I have an 02 Grand Prix SE and ran into the same problem. So after reading these posts I removed my center console and saw that the infamous 'purple' and 'green' wires had become disconnected from the adapter. When I removed the adapter, the problem was actually worse. Both wires had broke leaving an end in the adapter while the other part floated free. So I pushed out the metal used to hold the wire with a small screwdriver, pushing in the direction towards the wires. Since it seems the purple and green wires were 'just long enough' over the years the stress of pulling on the wires as the car was shifted in gear caused them to snap.

    I plan to solder on small extensions, and reinsert the wires back into the adapter with new connectors. Lots of electrical tape will be used I'm sure. I will drop a line letting you know if this works.
  • garyshogarysho Member Posts: 1
    For the leak, is it just the passenger front seat floor? If so, see this: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0f6276/1!make=Pontiac&model=Grand%20Prix- &ed_makeindex=.f0f6276

    Either the drain is blocked (I had that issue on my '99), or the rubber strip under the plastic piece below the wipers has gotten out of position. Hopefully that is all it is, and not a leaky roof.
  • mech_not1mech_not1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix and cannot turn the key to the off position and subsequently, cannot remove the key from the ignigition. It seems to be stuck between the accessory position and the off position. Will this run down my battery and can anyone give me a clue how to fix this please? I am not a mechanic and have very little tools. Thanks!
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    Here is a link to my Youtube video on how to fix this problem if it is the green and purple wires have come loose.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rHbrsvzxWc
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    There is also a work-around that is really easy. On the bottom of the steering column is a little opening right under the ignition. You'll need to pop out the cover with a small screwdriver. Now using the same screwdriver you can stick it in that hole and push on a little button that will allow you to get your key out. You can use the screwdriver to push that button in before turning the key, or after the key has been moved to the stuck position.
  • QueenRoyaltyQueenRoyalty Member Posts: 3
    I do the "work around" in # 60. For some reason I can physically pull my key out, no matter what position the ignition is in, even if I'm driving. I'm sure that can't be good, so I do the screwdriver trick.

    @gear kat - how much would you charge for the repair? I'm not in your area, but just so I have an idea. What would I call it to ask my own mechanic? thanks for your help
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    @QueenRoyalty - well I am currently charging $100. But I am not a mechanic, I'm just a guy who figured out a permanent fix based on his experiences in life. So to pay someone who 'knows what they are doing' is apt to be more expensive as they have the real training.

    But if you bring up the fact that the green and purple wires might have become separated under the console, you are definitely going to sound like you know what you are talking about. Save this tidbit though if the mechanic comes back saying you need a new wire harness or something that will mean a bigger bill.
  • here_to_help99here_to_help99 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    I've been running into this problem for probably about a year. Usually, the key eventually comes out after I cycle the shifter through Park-Reverse-Neutrial-4 and back. Yesterday was the first time that the key just wouldn't come out.

    After a lot of Internet research, I finally came across a video that was straightforward and easy to do:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYBD4_Bm_8g&NR=1

    this appears to solve the problem (for now). I'll keep everyone posted if things change...
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    That is not a permanent fix, that is just a work around. Sure, you can disable the key lock by using the port under the steering wheel, but after doing that a few hundred times I bet you get sick of it. By the way that guy (probably you) who posted that video doesn't allow me to comment on his thread about his solution to the problem. I provided him with correct information, a link to a permanent fix, and he'd rather ignore /bury it instead of admitting fault. Welcome to the new America.
  • here_to_help99here_to_help99 Member Posts: 3
    Mr. "Gearkat":

    First of all, I'm not the "that guy" who posted the video. I'm simply a satisfied customer who spent hours this morning trying to find a solution online (to no avail) until stumbling across that fellow's youtube video.

    Secondly, you're probably right in a sense that the proposed solution is a "workaround". I don't doubt that. But for myself, and many others I'm sure, this workaround is just what I was looking for - a simple and inexpensive corrective action. Before doing online research, I was quoted by a local dealer over the phone that repairing this issue by them would be ~$800 or more.

    Thirdly, I read your unnecessarily disparaging comments towards the owner of his video in his youtube comments section. I was very confused as to why you would try to discredit a fast, cheap, and effective solution - but then I realized why. I've read some of your comments and came to the realization that you are trying to sell your business. You don't want people to fix their car problems by using a cheap and easy solution; no, you want people to buy YOUR products and profit from others' hardship. You're not looking out for others; you're looking out for YOURSELF. Shame on you.

    There are ways to be profitable and run a small business without ripping off the American consumer. It's called being in a win-win relationship; perhaps you should invest some time researching the concept.

    Sorry to all who has to suffer through reading through gearcat and my quibble. Surely, you didn't come to this thread to see two people argue online.

    I just felt the responsibility to expose gearcat for who/what he truly is - a coward and a fraud.
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    edited August 2011
    A business isn't supposed to make money? That is a new one on me. He said his problem was a 'fix', it isn't. It is a work-around. I have a video on YouTube where I do a permanent fix for under $40 which address a specific problem pointed out by another edmunds.com user (thank you for that information). My fix only addresses this very local specific problem. I also use my real name in that video and provide my location. So if I am a fraud, I suck at it.

    The mechanic said it was going to be ~$800 because they don't want to take the time for a $40 dollar repair. They'd rather replace your ignition coil, wire harness, and whatever else they can think of to justify whatever price they quote.

    By the way, my research on the web shows that the $800 repair you mention often doesn't work, leaving you $800 out and still dependent on a work around. My fix was done 4 or 5 weeks ago now, and my car is working just fine. I have sold some of the L-shaped terminals on my ebay store to other do-it-yourself types and I have not had any negative feedback, or request for further information about how I did the repair. Nor has anyone tried to return the part I supplied. I can only conclude silence is golden. Here again is my YouTube video with a summary of how I did the repair.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rHbrsvzxWc
  • moonbeam3moonbeam3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 GrandPrix GTP. I found your video very informative. For me I have already been through this last august. I brought into the dealer and they said the shifter needed to be replaced. So $1800.00 (can) later it worked but not even a year later it started to do it again. So for the last few months I have been doing the ignition switch thing with the screw driver and have been locking my car my remote starter lock so it won't kill my battery if needed. This solution was very helpful but now it more of a money thing I don't want to spend that much again and it not be fixed. Can any mechanic do this or should i bring into the dealer and tell them what I think it can be.
    I have been talking to alot of mechanics that seem to not listen to me as I am a women and I guess most women probably know nothing about cars but I have a family full of uncles and none of them are around me right now or else they would be fixing it for me. I probably would be able to do it I am pretty handy but I would need step by step visuals to see what I am supposed to be doing. But now if I drop my car off for an oil change or whatever I sound crazy explaining to them how to take my key out of the ignition and I'm afraid they won't be able to take the key out and leave the doors unlocked.

    Do you know what I can do for dirty gas? I'm 100% sure I received bad gas from the station, my car is not 100% and I sometimes have problems with it starting but it will but not the first few times like it's not getting gas, changed fuel filter put a high octane in and a gasoline antifreeze/water remover but it still doesn't sound 100% have any ideas what i should do.
  • QueenRoyaltyQueenRoyalty Member Posts: 3
    Does anybody know why this is an intermittent problem (at least it is for me)? it will be fine for a while, maybe a month or 2, then start sticking again.

    I finally followed somebody else's advice and stuffed a straw into the hole. I lost the cover that I had to pop off, so I used a piece of duct tape to hold it in place. No problems so far!

    Good luck to everyone!
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    I can give you a step by step instruction for the first part to check if it is the green and purple wire which has come loose. all you will need is a flat head screwdriver and the car on a level surface, or blocks behind the back wheels so the car can't roll.

    1. Open your central console and remove the insert where you keep your stuff (for me its change and gas receipts)

    2. Locate a small rectangular hole on the front of the console just above the cup holder

    3. Insert screwdriver into this opening

    4. Gently but forcefully pry up on the plastic cover, it should 'pop' off

    5. on a flat surface, with the car off, move the shifter to the neutral position

    6. slide/pull the console cover up, gently pushing up on the seat heater insert from underneath

    7. look under the shifter to where the now revealed wire harness is running from the area under the radio to the area under the shifter

    8. you should see 6 or 7 wires, the wires you are interested in are green and purple. if they have come loose they will be apart from the white terminal to where the rest of the wires are attached.

    I have a unedited version of my repair where all of this is shown, but most of the video is me cursing, walking back and forth, or just being silent as I work. Also I was just recovering from laryngitis when I made the video so I sound rather disgusting. If you need more of a visual for these steps I can make another video showing how I get the console cover off. It should run all of 45 seconds.
  • msktleemsktlee Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    This u tube video shows you how how to remove the key manually
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYBD4_Bm_8g.

    There are other videos on how fix the problem permently. You really see the work being done. What a stress reliever.
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    Yes it does, and once you do that for over a year you just might get sick of the extra step. My video shows a simple repair to solve what may be the problem. A detached green and purple wire running out from the wire harness to the solenoid under the shifter.

    To check if it is the green and purple wire all you need is 1 screw driver and a few minutes.

    1. Remove the insert in the center console
    2. Find the rectangular hole in the front of the center console just above the cup holder
    3. Insert screw driver and leverage upward gently but forcefully to pop off the console cover
    4. Shift the front end of the console in front of the shifter and look for a bunch of wires taped together running out from under the radio area to the shifter.
    5. Follow the green and purple wire, pull on them gently, pulling away from the shifter.
    6. If you feel no resistance and see the end of the cables, therein is your problem, if you feel resistance, quit pulling and look into getting your ignition switch replaced.
  • desraeligearsdesraeligears Member Posts: 1
    Greetings My immediate question is to Gearcat:
    Would you explain in detail how this problem is caused by the ignition switch and whether this is the only item needing replacement?

    I have this problem on my 97 GTP and have checked the harness (it's tight) but have read of an actuator switch, possible gear shift solenoid etc.... so would like to read your take on the ig switch.

    I look forward to your reply.
  • gearkatgearkat Member Posts: 13
    Well, the ignition switch solenoid needs 'to talk' to the gear shift solenoid in order to know when the car is in park. From what I've read it is the ignition switch that goes bad more often than the solenoid in the gear switch. I don't know of an actuator switch being involved in this process. But once again, I am not a trained mechanic, I can only relay my non-professional opinion.
  • skorpion3skorpion3 Member Posts: 1
    Having that problem now and to add to it, the shifter will not move half the time. I think I have traced it down to the brake transaxle lockout solonoid. Is that strictly a dealer item?
  • bbyblsbbybls Member Posts: 1
    I have had this same problem with my 2000 Grand Prix. An even cheaper fix is using a straw from a restaurant. You have to cut it down but most will fit on the back side of the little cover that is under the steering column. This has fixed my car for at least 3 years now. I had actually forgotten about it until I came across this post.
  • jbird231jbird231 Member Posts: 1
    So i wanted to thank all on the site who have contributed to ideas/workarounds for what seems a very common problem. I was also having the same ignition not returning to lock and after reading through the responses to OP, I decided to dig into my 2000 GP. I will say that while i have no formal auto mechanic training, I have made a lot of repairs varying from wiper blade change to engine rebuilds. I would like to share what I found in my diagnostic and repair. My particular solenoid release issue was directly related to a coffe spill on the way to work about 2 months ago. The gear shift release mechanism was gummed up and not allowing the switch in the console/gear selector to fully disengage. A thorough cleaning of this with alchohol and lubrication with dielectric grease has fully solved my issue. I will say to anyone that is not looking to pay a dealership for repair, that any knowledgeable shade tree mechanic could correct this issue for you relatively inexpensively. I am in no way offering to do a repair for anyone but if I were to charge for this work, I would say less than 75 would be fair. In regards to those who have issues with being able to remove the key after the ignition is out of lock, the 2 issues that I have seen that create these problems in the past are improperly cut key or ignition lock assemblies wearing out due to excessive weight from many keys on your keyring after time... it can cause the tumblers to fail. Again, thank you to all who have contributed to solutions, and I hope that others may find help from my resolution.
  • mikerussellmikerussell Member Posts: 1
    Thanks gearkat great instructions. I just bought a 2001 Grand Prix SE and it had the same problem until this evening :)!!!!!!!!
  • johnmartinakjohnmartinak Member Posts: 1
    Where can a person purchase the wire fittings shown in the video by gearkat?
  • tbolyardtbolyard Member Posts: 1
    That works and it only takes about 5 min.
  • jamesdean1990jamesdean1990 Member Posts: 1
    netural safety swich is messed up, but key will come out when put in neutral
  • here_to_help99here_to_help99 Member Posts: 3
    Hey everybody,

    I posted to this thread earlier with a link to a YouTube video showing a good workaround.

    I've think I've now found a "permament" solution (knock on wood). Here's what I did:

    I removed the cover the bottom cover behind the steering wheel (the cover that houses the igntion system). I noticed that the wiring that hooks up to the cylinder behind the ignition was a little loose. I simply hooked the wires up more tightly and (voila!) I haven't had any stuck key issues since.

    I realize that this fixed my problem, but may not help everyone elses, but I hope this helps at least one person out there!
  • kb1950kb1950 Member Posts: 1
    make sure there is 12 v. to switch & that the ground wire has connection to - and make sure switch is working correctly.
  • kapaa_papakapaa_papa Member Posts: 1
    I have to "pile on". Pontiac Grand Prix 2001 GT, sometimes the key comes out sometimes it doesn't, tried all the tricks listed and finally found the one that works.

    So everyone keeps talking about this little hole on the bottom the steering column almost directly under where the key goes in. Mine is plugged with something, maybe I can pry it open with screw driver, however, I discovered an easier trick FOR MY MODEL/YEAR.

    1. Locate that little "hole" or "hole with a plug in it" on the steering column right under where the key goes in.
    2. Tilt the wheel so it's up as far as it will go.
    3. At the spot where it hinges stick your finger up into the elbow or the hinge and feel for that little plastic hole/plug. As soon as you touch the plug it will pop right out and drop to the floor HOWEVER directly above this plug is the release button so once you feel the plug simply lift your finger up lightly push on the button.
    4. You should hear the ignition click/release, key will come right out. No more aggravation!! No need to stick a small straw or toothpick up the hole, finger works great and only takes 2 seconds.

    Maybe someday I'll pull the shifter column/console apart and look for that loose wire as I sort of fear it could lead to something worse but for now this works great, been doing it for 2 months.
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