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Comments
Sorry to hear you are still angry about your experience even after dumping the truck . Could be folks don't want to post here seeking helpful advice because they can see all they get is a spew of gloom and doom from you. They want solutions - not to get more depressed.
A good site to have with this vehicle is "EAutorepair.com" Or search for "Mitchell online". You can subscribe to this website for all the wiring diagrams and repair info for a full year $29.00. You can also subscribe for 1 week ($11.99), or 1 month ($16.99). They have all the wiring schematics for this vehicle and you can print them out for your records.
Thanks, Den052
Check out my post to Lucrio (#638) where I detailed this. It was a quick fix (unelegant) but it's still working so I'll let it be.
Thanks for the tips on the other web sites too!
Thanks
This thread has been dead for about 6 months.
Just about everybody that was on this forum loved their Colorados or Canyons, but the stories are pretty much the same, endless reoccuring electrical problems, no help from the company or dealerships (with the exception of them helping themselves to your credit card). Pretty much everybody that was here moved on to other vehicles and manufactures.
Give it time though, you'll get Sarah, Camron, Hewy, Dewy and Louie from the "GM Customer Care Club" or whatever it is to try and steer you into a dealership so you can get your wallet cleaned out and they get their commissions.
My advice, get rid of the truck before you have other expensive surprises like the tail lights not working, the head neading to be replaced, the radio failing etc.
It really is funny, the one reoccuring theme with the truck is when the battery is disconnected or drained. After that, the electrical problems with the vehicle are endless.
Best of luck to you. If you don't already, sooner or later you will understand...
GM= :lemon:
Disconnecting the battery and or touching battery cables together don't do a thing even though it may appear to resolve the problem as it is an intermittent problem. I fixed mine 2 years ago with di-electric grease.
The body computer is NOT corrupted or anything as every other function of the body computer still functions. All other methods of weird stuff are just "Shade tree mechanics" that don't know what is going on.
Licensed Master Mechanic Light and Heavy Vehicles (trucks and Semi's) GM mechanic for over 40 years.
Dennis Tomlinson
Finally sold my Colorado as I couldn't get good mileage around town. Was able to pull 23-24mpg on highway, but might as well drive a full size pickup that gets that TOO.
When sold, everything functioned like factory new with no check engine light either. I was happy with the vehicle except for poor stop and go mileage for a 4 cylinder engine. In my opinion, the 4 cyl engine had adequate power. Some people [non-permissible content removed] that Colorado's were underpowered but it didn't seem all that bad to me.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
the parts mentioned that is
1. the ignition passlock sensor
2. timing sensor
3. crank sensor
greatly appreciate any help
thank you
part # 15795321
2. Not sure what you mean by "timing sensor". do you mean camshaft positioning sensor (that is, valve timing) or do you mean something related to ignition timing?
3. Part # 12588097
IF you mean camshaft sensor, that part # is: 12584516
If you mean ignition timing, that is not done by sensor. It works thusly:
IGNITION COIL/MODULE
Each ignition coil/module has the following circuits:
An ignition voltage circuit
A ground
An ignition control (IC) circuit
The PCM controls the individual coils by transmitting timing pulses on the IC circuit of each ignition coil/module to enable a spark event.
The spark plugs are connected to each coil by a short boot. The boot contains a spring that conducts the spark energy from the coil to the spark plug.
I was considering taking it to the dealer to have a new battery installed but they want $230 to install a new battery. The only reason I would ever take it there is because of all the problems I have read about, and from what I've read and experienced, I don't think I trust them to get it right anyway. When I told them my concerns they acted like they didn't know what I was talking about.
The first question is, "Do you have the other symptoms?". Does your driver window still work? Does the fob lock the doors? If the answer is 'no', then you probably have the weird software glitch that no one at Chevy has ever heard about in seven years. If you take it to them, plan on having them replace the battery, the BCM, burn out your blower motor and handing you a bill for a grand to not fix the problem. If this is the case, then the best fix is probably replacing the door/window module, (that Chevy swears has nothing to do with the problem).
If it is just a battery issue, without the window/fob thing, then it may be an unrelated weird electrical problem.
I would check for a battery at Batteries Plus before I'd get scalped by a dealer. The last time I checked (back before I gave up on the Colorado and bought a Toyota), the batteries were only available through a dealer. Perhaps now there are aftermarket sources.
Just remember, "The Chevy Colorado, the gift that keeps on giving... to their service department".
The best advice, sell the truck and never buy another Chevy product.
Look up "Chevy Electrical Problems" in the dictionary and you will see an entry that says, "See hopeless situations".
Seriously, good luck. You're going to need it as long as you own that truck.
GM=Lemon
You can get a battery for the Colorado just about anywhere now. I bought mine at Advance Auto for under $100 and they did the work.
My 9 year old Colorado is a 2004 model with about 130K on it and other than the door locks not working properly, and the body computer crashing twice, it's been a good truck. I'm on my third set of tires which isn't bad for the miles, second battery, and it still drives and runs like a new truck. I won't buy another GM but that's just politics...
It is possible to change the battery while the vehicle is running. Just remove the positive post, (being careful not to touch ground with the battery post removal tool), and wrap it in a cloth or duct tape and place aside. The ground you don't have to worry about. Remove the battery and install new battery and reverse the procedure. If I were to do this, (and have done it in the past), I would leave the headlights on so the alternator would be supplying some current to the vehicle (to lessen voltage spikes).
As a side note, apparently Colorado trucks are not the only one with window/lock problems. A friend of mine had a 2010 Dodge Charger that the right window quit working. As I couldn't troubleshoot it right away, he went for a few months without it working. When he changed his battery, it started working again. Interesting stuff.
Dennis, (certified ASE mechanic).
Take a 5 cent stick-on tab about 1/2" wide 1/8" high (something that you might use as pads for a table lamp, etc.) and stick them on the metal door side opposite the door switch. Place one on all 4 doors of the vehicle. Close all the doors and watch as the warning lights go out on the dash ~ the windows work and the alarm bells cease to ring. Voila, your car is fixed.
Its fairly easy to remove the door/window module on the drivers door. I believe you have to remove 1 or 2 phillips screws and pop a couple clips on the module to release it from the door trim panel. No need to remove the door panel.
Certified Master GM Mechanic.
Upon arrival at home, I inspected the front expecting to see something caught in rotor/brake but didn't see anything. Brake pads are original and still with good material left. The vehicle is almost 5 years old with low mileage and I would not expect to see an ABS light come on. I am perplexed.
So the window thing would fix itself periodically, and screw up again, then fix itself, then screw up again, until about 8 months ago it was permanent. It didn't bother me, but got online found this post, and decided to follow it, I am amazed at how many people have had all these issues, same ones over and over. Well today I decided to look into my situation with the drivers window and door lock and found fuse no.21
defective. i installed a new 20 amp fuse and BAM, everything works. I am going to try to attach an image of the fuse. checked good with continuity, in the truck, checked good with test light in the truck, and looked fine visually, so for [non-permissible content removed] and grins, i grabbed my needle nose pliers and pulled the fuse and the one leg stayed in the fuse box. So i thought i would post what I found.
Thanks