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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • puregreenpuregreen Member Posts: 24
    Just whatever the factory has in it. Im checking with them they said never heard of it, plus frt axle seals are leaking hoping its covered under warranty.
  • bassman52bassman52 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Colorado with 60K on it. Luckly I have not had any of the major problems I have heard discussed here. I do have a problem with the rear half door wiring harnesses. The wire used in them was to stiff and both have broken wires in them at the flex point. Has anyone else had this happen?
  • canman1canman1 Member Posts: 1
    this morning I purchased some window tint for my 05 canyon. I continued to pull off my driver side door panel. I then cleaned the window. I plugged the switch back up to lower the window a couple of inches and the driver side window would not move. I tried all the other windows from the driver door and they all worked. I tried the mirrors they worked. I tried the door locks, they did not work. I went to the passenger side, the door locks did not work there either. I tried the keyless entry button. The horn dtill chirped like it should but the doors didn't lock or unlock. I contacted the local dealer and they said they have never heard of the problem. Which from the postings I have just read through that is not unusual. I have read quite a few postings on a few different sites and there are a lot of canyons and colorados that are haveing the same problems. Most people are saying it is the BCM. Has anyone figured out the exact problem? Oh and by the way when I contacted the dealer my warranty expired 8 days ago. Some luck huh???
  • donboudreauxdonboudreaux Member Posts: 4
    On April 21, GMC bought my Canyon back, 3 months after I filed thru BBB and having a dead battery 12 times in less than 1500 miles. Of course I lost about $1200.00 because they disallowed the cost of the spray in bedliner and side moldings I added, the $560.00 sales tax on the trade in, and $500.00 incentive. But I DID get a check from GMC, but it took 3 months of them fighting and delaying at every opportunity they could come up with.
    GOD BLESS THE B.B.B !!!
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I don't think most companies would honor warranty repair on that issue being that you created yourself, unfortunately. I read here on the forum of someone who figured out the window switch thing and how it is related to its connection. Look back over the posts.
  • kleinboneskleinbones Member Posts: 1
    Intermittant Multiple Cylinder Mis-fire:
    I experienced an Intermittant Multiple Cylinder Mis-fire that occured abruptly and continued until I replaced the exhaust valve cam position sensor. I performed this repair based on a OBDll code and chose to replace it since the other referenced sensors were not available at the local parts store. I immediately started the truck after replacement and had no further issues. The next morning I drove the truck about 5 miles and the same exact syptoms occured again. I parked the vehicle for about 20 minutes while I went into the store, came out and it ran perfectly fine since. I have noticed though that the power doors locks do not function and the drivers window is inop. Any ideas? I have reviewed the blogs posted and have noticed a number of discussion on the GM Cylinder Head issue , though have a hard time believing it could be the same. I also believe there is a GM issue for the door locks and window though have not seen anything.

    :cry::D :mad: :confuse: :lemon:
  • pete03usmcpete03usmc Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 2004 Chevy Colorado Crew cab with 45k miles. It has always been well taken care of but lately, I have been having small electrical issues. The inside dome light and rearview mirror courtesy lights work when they want to. When I engage the hazard lights, the rear blinkers flash, but not the front, they just stay solid. With regular blinker use the rear units flash, but the front units don't blink or come on at all.
    The radio stays on even after I remove my key and shut the door, but it will turn off sometimes when the passenger door is opened and closed.
    I was thinking maybe a ground issue? All of the fuses check out good. Any Ideas??

    Thanks

    Pete
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Sorry, I don't have the truck but have driven them. The answers to your window question are are somewhere. I have read about the issues and some ways for the do it yourselfer to fix.
  • gthfishgthfish Member Posts: 8
    Hello, I have a 2005 colorado and I am having problems with the vent and a/c fan. It does not work in 1,2,3 positions, but it runs good in position 4.
    Anyone had this problem and got it fixed?
    Thanks Gary
  • brokenallbrokenall Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    i got the same problem
    First the air bag light came on
    after i scan the problem the scan said :open circuit on belt tensionnner (code 0446)
    i remove the rear door panel and i check the circuit on the tensionner and at the same time i didn't, hear any sound on my rear door speaker,i check every thing and no sound ok , i check the light switch on bottom the rear door (switch for the dome light) nothing work . there 6 wires on this harness ,5 of them were broke on the at the flex point.
    I m a automotive tech for one of the biggest industries in Canada
    around 10000 car truck and machineries,
    i work with Ford, Gm Chrysler, Kenworth peterbilt International truck John deere Cat etc etc and when i call the enginering at GM
    he told me Gm know about this problem, and you have to write to GM complaint departement, in other word do the repair and wait
    hope these information help you
    sorry about my written i`m a french speaking Canadian
    Jean
  • brokenallbrokenall Member Posts: 9
    First check on helper side under the glove box
    you see an ovale connector with 4 wire on
    disconnect the connector and check the third connector must be burn
    small wire terminal is stock on GM dealer
    Second: on the heater housing (where the connector was placed) you have a think call blower resistor remove the 2 screw (one each side ) and check if the any resistor (curl wire ) broke or in the resistor you got a diode (must be blow)
    if there one those thing broke , change the resistor aroud 15.00 $ /auto part
    or 45.00$ GM dealer
    hope everything help you
    Jean
  • brokenallbrokenall Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    Check on your Rear driver side door ther is a rubber tube where the wire pass trouw
    wire must be cut inside
    check all wire
    remove your rear door panel and remove one clip (one who hold the harness)
    when you open the door wire inside is to short and broke
    there 6 wire check them all 2 for the door switch
    2 for speakers and two other for belt tensionner
    if this one is broke air bag goes on

    hope that help ypu

    Jean
  • brokenallbrokenall Member Posts: 9
    ther a recall from gm
    if you have missfire or bad idle
    there is a problem with valve seat
    Gm replaced the head and job at no charge
    check at any Gm sevice
    Jean
  • tmumseytmumsey Member Posts: 1
    Breaks on or off have nothing to do with the Air Bag system. There is a trigger in the front of the truck responsible for firing the air bag. In some instances, the angle of the impact fails to give this device enough force to trigger it. But more likely, it was just a bad sensor. In a '95, it's been exposed to the environment for 13 years. Moisture, and especialy if combined with salt (snow belt??) can cause the parts to just short out, causing the trigger voltage to short to ground through the corrosion.

    Just a thought, The mechanic spoke as an expert, without knowledge on this subject??? Try another mechanic!! :surprise:
  • bummed4bummed4 Member Posts: 1
    I took my 2005 colorado truck in with the same problem today. Here is the bad news it will cost me 150.00 bucks to repair. They have to replace some sort of resistor , switch and the electrical wiring harness. They tell me there is a short that occurs in the wireing and it ends up melting the harness. The GM certified mechanic told me this is a problem that they have with colorado's and trailblaizers which I have one of those as well. The repair time is about one hour.
  • brokenallbrokenall Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    you may write to the wrong member
    i spoke about the wire cut on rear door (ext cab) the belt trigger wire was cut on rubber cover (open circuit on belt tensionner )air bag light on
    second im not an expert like you said , but the air bag device need decelleration in an amount of time
    bettwen 0.4 to 4.0 G in less than 0.65 second
    i got a driver driving a Chevrolet silverado 2500 4x4 2007 who lost control on a gravel road at 70MPH
    hit a rock, lost the front right suspention and tire goes off , jump 15 feet in the air and finish is ride on pine tree. The front frame was bed 5 inch to the right, the rear differential goes off the center pin, the rear frame was bend enough, the rear box broke the rear glass NO air bag deploy ,you know why
    the GM tech came at your shop an scan the ecm
    answer : not enough deceleration in time required
    You talk about force i think there enough force there to bent the truck but not enough to deploy the air bag

    Thanks
    Jean
  • enyourdreamenyourdream Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem. I am currently having a small electrical problem. Something is draining my battery while I have it parked overnight and I always have to get a jump. I went to the auto parts store and had my alternator and battery tested and they said those were both good. Have you heard of any problems of something draing that is not supposed to be on but is.
  • kyeaterkyeater Member Posts: 1
    DOes anyone else have this problem. My airbag light is on and won't turn off. I also have problem with my truck just shutting off completely while I am driving on the highway or anywhere. Everything just locks up and the brakes are hard to push in and the steering wheel is hard to turn. I have ti stop completely and put it in park to turn the engine back on. i am the only owner of this truck.
  • tigger041773tigger041773 Member Posts: 1
    Yes had same problem on my 2004 Colorado.. Took it to dealership and they found a short in the resistor and the conneter..imagaine that.. about 140.00 to fix (just to let you know) Hope this helps..
  • dspencer1231dspencer1231 Member Posts: 3
    Ok. Here is the answer to most all of the electrical issues with these vehicles. If you get them early you can do a quick fix and keep from having worse issues. The ground to all of your electric motors must be check and I am installing new. Most of the electric motors have plastic housings or are mounted to plastic. They have a ground wire going to each motor. If you loose 1 ground that motor will find a ground through someplace else. Note: this is very important because on an electric motor as you loose the ground the voltage decreases. The motor is still trying to turn so the current goes up. As the current goes up, heat builds up and over heats the connections. Melting the connectors and creating more resistance causing the voltage to drop more and so on. The grounding circuit goes everywhere so don't think that your electric window motors won't affect other parts of the car. Here is a list of some electric motors in your truck or car: Blower motor, window motors, electric seat motors, Windshield wiper motor and ABS Motor. The one I have found to be the most likely to need repair is the Windshield wiper motor. I hope this helps and if I can help let me know.

    dspencer1231@yahoo.com

    David
  • mike_1017mike_1017 Member Posts: 13
    I have an 04 canyon. Battery was dead one morning. Tried to jump it but it wouldn't hold a charge so I replaced the battery. Truck started up but the battery light came on. Figured it was the alternator so I replaced that. Battery light still came on. I returned the alternator and had the original bench tested. It was good. putting out plenty of voltage. The new battery was recharged because it was totally drained. So, now what? Is it a bad ground wire some where or something else?
  • snaproll1snaproll1 Member Posts: 88
    I had all these electrical problems last summer, BCM, battery, resistor in the blower fan, the blower fan itself. There was a "service bulletin" to replace the fuse block which they found had some burn marks on it. Very kind of them to replace that for free. I'm guessing, but I think that was the 'problem' that burned out everything else that Chevy charged me to replace.

    Totaled over $800 in repairs over 2 months. They covered nothing but the fuse block. Good business sense there... I will never buy another Chevy product.
  • dspencer1231dspencer1231 Member Posts: 3
    The problem is that if you are reading this than the damage has begun. Find a good Auto electric shop and ask is they will check your grounding circuits. The cost will be worth it. Or trade the vehicle in for something else. I have been an GM person for a long time. But with all the issues I have seen with the grounding problems, I'm going to Honda or Toyota.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Going for them for what, to fix your Chevy?

    If you are referring to buying one of those what are you going to do when you have a problem with your new Japanese car/truck? Look at their forum they have issues as well.

    You will have Hyundai, Volvo, BMW, and a few other brands left if you keep abandoning brands.
  • mike_1017mike_1017 Member Posts: 13
    is there a diagnostic test I can do myself to pinpoint the problem?
  • gthfishgthfish Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2004 colorado and the airbag light came on and would not go off. I took in to the dealer and they quoted me an estimate of $110.83.The problem was a shorted wire under the drivers seat, which they replaced or repaired.
    I also complained to the manager about this problem that this was a mfgr. material defect or a workmanship problem because I faithfully had my truck serviced every 3 months and only had 15,046 miles on my odometer and no reason to do anything under the seat, plus the warranty had expired 2 months prior.
    The manager called back 2 hrs. later and said they will not charge for the repair after talking to customer service at GM Headquarters. Thank Goodness
  • gthfishgthfish Member Posts: 8
    Thanks brokenail for your answer and your time, appreciate your reply..gary
  • gthfishgthfish Member Posts: 8
    Thanks trigger, took it to the dealer too, and they charged me $ 180.00
  • mike_1017mike_1017 Member Posts: 13
    I fixed it!!! Thanks for all the info. come to find out it was the damn 100 amp mega fuse. So, if anyone ever has a problem with your battery light staying on, don't kill yourself trying to find a short. replace the mega fuse.
  • linkfeeneylinkfeeney Member Posts: 58
    chevy seems to have more problems than gm, that's all
    everyone has problems! Also, tacoma and frontier is out selling like crazy compare to colorado and canyon
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Yes, and I would bet they advertise on TV more than Chevy does with the Colorado. Good marketing sells vehicles and people are quick to believe everything they see on TV like the Tacoma falling off a hill or floating to shore from the ocean with no damage.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Reminds me of a ad on TV featuring Discount Tire. They still use the ad today where they say if you aren't satified with one of their tires bring it back and they show this old woman throwing it through a plate glass window. Well you guessed it. But the person was arrested and prosicuted.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I bet a good lawyer could have gotten him out of that one. That's pretty funny.
  • robl6210robl6210 Member Posts: 7
    Help! Both my head lamps and turn signals are inoperative. My technician checked the fuses/relays and replaced the head lamp switch and nothing has changed. (I purchased this retired unit from General Electric Leasing Company who had it in service with the Union Pacific Railroad.) I assume whoever removed the communication equipment, spotlights, and beacon shorted something out? Also, the ABS, battery light, and check engine light are all on.
  • robl6210robl6210 Member Posts: 7
    Help! Both my head lamps and turn signals are inoperative. My technician checked the fuses/relays and replaced the head lamp switch and nothing has changed. (I purchased this retired unit from General Electric Leasing Company who had it in service with the Union Pacific Railroad.) I assume whoever removed the communication equipment, spotlights, and beacon shorted something out? Also, the ABS, battery light, and check engine light are all on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    We heard you the first time. My question is did you bother to check out this car before you bought it? If they truly shorted something out as you suggest then this tells me that you didn't do your job and now you going to have to pay the piper, or in this case a qualified electical person. I'd take it to a big Chevy dealer who is used to working on these vehicles not some garage mechinic that has never worked on this car before.
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Member Posts: 15
    My door lock problem is different than any I've seen here. Here are my symptoms:

    1. Both key fobs will lock the doors but not unlock them.
    2. The inside switch locks and unlocks the doors just fine.
    3. When the key fob unlock button is pressed, the lights blink like it is going to unlock the doors but they don't unlock.
    4. When you remove the key from the ignition, it does not unlock the doors like it used to.
    5. If you use the key to unlock the doors without first pressing the unlock button on the key fob then the horn starts beeping. You have to press the unlock button then use the key.
    6. All other electrical functions are normal - lights, windows, etc.

    What do you think? BCM? If so, is there a way to check it and/or repair it? Anyone have a schematic of the beast or for that matter, a wiring diagram that's better than my Hayne's manual wiring diagram ( sucks ). How does the dealer check problems like this being that it's not throwing any codes on my code reader?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    This issue's symptoms are very similar to what happened to my Corvette, as well as a few others of us on one of the Corvette discussion sites. If it is indeed the same problem, and the Canyon uses the same circuitry as the 'Vette, here's what has happened. A relay on the circuit board that controls the "lock", "unlock", and one other thing, that escape me at the moment, has gone bad.

    On the 'Vette, this board is in a plastic housing behind the door panel. Thanks to a member of the Corvette web site, I was able to repair the circuit board for under $5. (Well, actually it cost me a little more, because I had to purchase a de-soldering tool)
  • robl6210robl6210 Member Posts: 7
    So you are a professional used car buyer? When your name is on my sign you can tell me how to run my dealer business.
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Member Posts: 15
    Thanks leadfoot4.

    I'm not positive but I think those relays that you are talking about might be in the switch assembly in the door panel on the Colorado. I'll remove the switch assembly tonight and disassemble it to see.

    I'll post my finding here.

    Cheers.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    I don't know if the moderators here will let this fly, but if they let this reference go, check this out....

    http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1606865
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Dead link...

    We allow a link like this as long as it's viewable to all and directly answers someone's question. If it's just to promote another site, no good.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Member Posts: 15
    The Corvette door module looks similar to the Colorado's except that the Colorado's panel is physically attached to the door and window switches - just one assembly. Also, the relays inside are tiny and there is lots of logic on the PC board and it is almost all Surface Mount Devices (SMD). The relays look like single pole double throw relays so I checked across the closed contacts and they appear to be good. If my Hayne's manual wiring diagram is correct, the Body Control Module sends a signal to unlock the door on the white wire at the door module. When I monitor the white wire while pressing the key fob unlock button, I get a steady 4.7 volts. I would think that voltage should go up or down when the key fob button is pressed but it doesn't.

    I pulled the connectors loose on the BCM hoping that it might 'reset' it but it had no effect.

    I sure hate to take it to the dealer but I can't afford to just change out expensive parts on a whim and I can't find a decent schematic.

    I tell you why the truck costs so much - there's $15,000 in wire in the thing. When you start looking behind covers and things it's amazing how much wire and how many connectors there are!

    Cheers
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Bottom line you bought a piece of junk due to lack of checking it out according to your post so why not tell me the name of your dealer business so I can avoid doing business with you. :P
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "kcram", there have been some issues on that site, due to a new software package. However, the link I was referring to showed the actual circuit board for the window/lock/unlock functions, as well as identifying which relay was what.

    It could have been helpful.....
  • mrwebmanmrwebman Member Posts: 15
    The link works if you take out the dots and put in "thread." ie, /showthread.php?t=1606865.

    For anyone that is having a problem where both your door lock button as well as your key fob doesn't work then I'd look at the relay as a probable problem. The relays on the Colorado are smaller than the ones on the Vette but they are replaceable.

    Unfortunately, my problem was that only the key fobs wouldn't unlock the door... the switch still worked which means the relays are good.

    When I figure my problem out I'll announce it here.

    Cheers.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "webman", I just thought of something. Have you tried resetting the fobs to the truck?

    To the best of my knowledge, you turn the key to the "on" position, then hold the lock and unlock buttons on the fob simultaneously for a few seconds, or something like that.
  • robl6210robl6210 Member Posts: 7
    I purchased a $5500 unit for $1800! I think I have some room for repairs.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Not bad, let us know what you find when you get it fixed. In case it wasn't the added on equipment that caused the problem. Most likely, as you said it was but I always have believed in Murphys law.
  • robl6210robl6210 Member Posts: 7
    Do I need to replace the 100A Mega fuse? (The battery light indicator is on.) The fuse appears to be good.
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