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Comments
PHR004
No. It can be done by removing the underdash hush panel (thin plastic) and taking off the glovebox door.
If you want to email my email given in my profile (click on my user name at top of this post), I'll try to link you up with some help.
The Bonneville has a different dash structure in that area than the leSabres. Yours is harder to get to.
First, you need to verify that the electric actuator is not moving correctly, by looking through the hole in the brace behind the glovebox where you can see the rod that the actuator uses to move the door. If you find the actuator is bad, it can be removed by taking off two short screws--but they do it by feel since they're next to impossible to see.
What happens is the actuators have a plastic gear inside that splits so it's not pressed against the hub and slips. The hub is what moves the actuator rod.
I removed mine and glued the gear to the actuator. But mine is easier to replace if it breaks or slips again. So I decided I might not own the car by the time it comes loose from the plastic instant glue.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The location is where shown. Follow the wires from the blower motor up. The relay center above the blower control module is held by two screws. Remove those and it can be pushed upward with slack on the wires and give some room to get the BCM out of the airbox.
The module is electronic. They will show voltage but no current. If the blower runs when connected directly to the battery on a fused line and with a ground, then you're probably needing the BCM for roughly $100? Available at Rockauto.com and other local box stores.
If you do not have the digital speed control on the blower, then the same location would have a resistor set that gives three speeds.
The only other possible problem is burnt contacts on the connections due to high heat. So take a look.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
.
One controls the direction of airflow for both systems, driver and passenger sides. That is not a problem since you can change the air flow path which is the same for both sides.
One controls the air temperature blend door on the driver side.
One controls the air temperature blend door for the passenger side.
By removing the underdash plastic cover carefully, you can then watch the movement of each of these by the white center rotor on the electric actuator while you change the temperature demand on the dash with the key ON (I don't think the engine has to be running).
I suspect you'll find the driver side is not moving all the way through the range of motion.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Notice there is a separate circuit for the highest speed due to the high current draw. IIRC it has its own fuse in the relay center under the hood. AND it has its own relay. Either of those may have failed. The relay is in the relay center under the hood.
If you are able to do some electric troubleshooting, test for power on the purple line to the blower motor when the fan switch is on HIGH and the key is ON. You probably are getting 12 volts on the other 3 speeds and then when you switch to HIGH, the voltage drops to zero.
The cover for the relay center comes off easily. I do not know if there is a diagram in it showing which large fuse goes to which circuit. You may have to test each of them for 12 volts on both poles.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Several H-body posters have had problems with the switch. Check rockauto.com for it and look for a 5% discount code that goes into the "where did you hear about us" box.
To replace must not be terribly difficult from what folks in Pontiac forums have said. That's as long as you can get your body in there between the door frame and the seat or lie upside down on the seat and hang over down onto the floor. I worked under there on the diaphragms for the HVAC control valves, but I didn't check on how the ignition switch looked.
Part #80
I suspect you need to disable the air bags to do this.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have a 96 Bonneville and got the a/c fixed a few summers ago and then it went out again the next summer. I don’t want to dump a ton of money into it but it allows heat in on the floor board all the time. When i turn the blower on i can switch between floor, vent, and defrost, but when everything is off heat pores in from the floor board making summers miserable. What can i do so that when the unit is off no air comes through any port?
I have a 96 Bonneville and got the a/c fixed a few summers ago and then it went out again the next summer. I don’t want to dump a ton of money into it but it allows heat in thru all vents, floorboard vent, and defrost at all times. When i turn the blower on i can switch between floor, vent, and defrost, but when everything is off heat continues to flow in thru all vents though the blower is off. Please help!!!
Reading through all the various discussions on this particular issue (and trying all the various solutions offered), I've come to the conclusion that it's something that is a) quite common to this particular heating system, and b) even if I replace all the electronic parts (have replaced the "head unit" already), there's no guaranteeing this won't happen yet again.
So, my question here is simply how do I go about disconnecting the actuator motor (hopefully without damaging it) to where the blend door stays in the "heat position"? Any pictures would be GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks in advance for any and all help offered!
Signed,
Tom, aka Cold in Allentown, Pa
The Buick has easier access to this actuator than the Bonneville due to a different design of the dash. Some had pulled the glovebox door forward so they can see through to the top of the heater box or removed the door. There is a view to the rod which has a brace rod in the path but there is a hole in the brace allowing a view of the rod. They have actually ducttaped (IIRC) a clothes hanger wire to the rode to be able to manually adjust it, i.e., keep it from moving on its own.
The actuator can be removed by two screws and disconnecting the electrical connector, but space is tight. Use methods to avoid dropping the screws or losing the sockets if they come off your wrench.
Here's a link: link title
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The actuator rod is (barely) visable through the left (drivers side) hole which I circled in red.
Here's a close up, although, I couldn't get my camera to focus on the rod itself.
It was a simple matter to take some bailing wire, loop it around the actuator rod end, pull it towards the passenger side of the glove box (which opens the door for heat evidently), and tie it off. That will keep my wife (not ot mention my marriage) warm for the winter.
To actually get at the actuator motor looks to be a real challenge and if my 200k Pontiac makes it through the winter at all, MAYBE I'll attempt to replace it come spring.
Thanks again!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'm really glad that something I've learned from the past adventures with my H-body and reading other's posts has helped someone here. I appreciate it when someone comes back and says it did help.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks
If it's the digital readout, you have a blower speed module that can fail in strange ways. Or it could just be the blower motor is failing. The motor is about 5 screws on the firewall on the back of the engine compartment.
The blower speed control module is above the motor sitting down into the air path for cooling.
The Relay Center above that is held in by two screws and can be raised if they're removed for easier access to the two screws hold the BCM in place.
If you ahve the manual system it's most likely the blower motor. Intead of the module, the manual system has a resistor pack for changing speeds.
The motor can be tested in place with a fused lead from the battery to the purple wire. You have to also provide a ground for the black wire.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thank you very much for your help. I'm going to get on this this afternoon.
No. If the test of the motor using a fused power wire from the positive battery terminal to the purple wire and a ground to the black wire makes the motor run just fine--at full speed--, then you _probably_ have a blower control module problem.
They are available from rockauto.com, and various box stores, along with the recycling yards. Depends on how much you're willing to fuss over it from recycling, such as the pick-and-pull yards.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I upgraded the arm to metal from wood several years ago. There are times it jams to the right (cold) and I don't want to force it. Usually turning the climate control off completely will allow me to move the arm. Fortunately the car is narrow enough to reach the arm while driving w/o dropping my cell phone, spilling my coffee or losing my donut. :-)
Here are some pictures and description that may help you understand what I did, but not necessarily motivate you to do it.
Howard
http://home.comcast.net/~bmy1398/Car_Heater/Climate_Control.htm
But looking at the troubleshooting flow chart for blower in my 2003 factory service manual, it reminds us to check the connector to the blower control module. These connector could have corrosion or just heat cause the contacts to not make good contact. The plastic holder then could soften that holds the contact blades and the blades then further lose contact and burn. Then I recalled a few people through the years have found the connectors damaged.
The blower control module is an electronic variable power transistor that can vary the power to the blower motor and provide feedback to the control head as to what power it's running the blower at. Because of the way you describe its going back I suspect the burned contacts or softened plastic. The power leads from the blower motor go to the blower control module which is mounted on the side of the HVAC blower area. It has to have the heat sink cooled by the airflow so that part sticks into the blower case.
The factory manual says there a dash integration module in the way to getting to the blower control module on the side of the case. So it has to be removed first--at least on the 03 leSabre.
If it's not the connector, I'd suspect the blower control module itself. You've already replaced the dash control IIRC. You can get the BCM (blower control modules) from pulls at junkyards now. If it's the plastic connector that failed, you probably can get a replacement but might be easier to replace the blower motor. Your can, I BELIEVE, is in the group where the replacement motor is adapted to get away from the original bolt in method. Check carefully if you use a wrecking yard or pick and pull yard to be sure to get a motor that's the same.
Rockauto.com has the BCM for about $85 plus ship plus tax for ACDelco
I didn't look at blower motors or to see if they offer a replacement connector
to splice into the wires. The HELP parts by Dorman at lots of parts stores may
have connector replacements. They always seem to have things like that.
If it is the connector being fried, search Dorman Help on the net to see what
parts they offer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I suspect the system is trying to do the system check on startup where the temperature is run all the way to maximum and then back to minimum to set where the limits of travel of the electric controls are for the blend doors. Those modules can be watched during this process by looking under the dash on the passenger side after taking off the plastic sound layer.
If you locate the one for the driver side, I believe it's on top of the box without looking again, you probably can take hold of the lever and move it with the hub sliding on the gear that's inside the module. The gear has cracked. Or the crack has occurred in the middle of the travel range causing the system to balk.
It will take a while, but I'll post pictures if I still have them linked. The modules are inexpensive and can be replaced by owners who are lithe and have relatively small hands. You may want to take off the glove box door if yours is like the leSabre's.
Parts are available from Rockauto BUT you have to be very careful of the labeling and be sure you get the module for system--check your RPO label on spare tire cover for CJ2 or the other system label, which I can't recall right now.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Other pictures show the broken gear I mentioned. It the crack in the gear is at a place where the motion of the actuator hits it with the gears meshing inside, it might be causing the startup testing to fail. It's also possible the blend door is blocked inside the heater.
You can unsnap the rod and manually move the heater door with the engine running and blower on to see if the heat adjusts up and down.
Notice at one point this article shows how the owner put a clothes hanger onto the end of the blend door rod with duct tap so he could move it from the top of the instrument panel, through the glove box IIRC.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,