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Nissan Quest Engine Problems

13

Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Is the check engine light on?

    this could be a number of things but I doubt it is fuel related. It could be related to the ECM or transmission (computer). Any other drivability issues? Does this happen all the time?
  • mits1mits1 Member Posts: 6
    no check engine light on, yes it is all the time. is ecm/tcm or pcm a common issue with these? from past encounters the computer is not usually the problem. and one of the more $ parts
  • denhamdenham Member Posts: 76
    Most often I have found the engine light on because of gas tank vent, such as loose
    or bad gas cap or the vent valve stuck open. The computer does a cycle ever so often
    and maintains the vent pressure build up in the gas tank and vapor canister, and if the purge valve sticks open the computer gives a check engine light and code as the pressure is not in the vapor storage tank when called for.
    I would say you have a bad gas cap or open purge valve or a leak in a line or the stowage canister.
    You may try taking a battery cable off and turn the key on in order to reset the computer, but if the light goes out it will come back when the computer does a cycle
    if the vapor pressure is not there,
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The ECM (Electronic Control Module) is a common problem with this generation Quest. The placement of the ECM makes it susceptible to excessive moisture and corrosion. It does cause problems that may lead you to believe it is fuel related since it does control many of these functions. The ECM is expensive but is covered by the 8 yr/80,000 mile emission warranty.

    Since there is no "check engine" light, the best thing you can do is have a mechanic troubleshoot the problem. I would have the mechanic scan for codes event though the CEL is not on. Make sure they are aware that it happens all the time. A good mechanic should be able to isolate the problem. let us know how it ends up.
  • jjrdhwkjjrdhwk Member Posts: 2
    I have read many posts regarding the distributor and rough idle. Most refer to the '99 year which has the internal module. Mine is external, as is the coil. My problem has not gotten better after changing plugs, cap, rotor, IAC, wires, cleaning the MAF. After warming up it will chug in park, you can feel that the exhaust is not coming out smooth, and stumble/lurch forward at stop lights. I have looked at the dist photo eye which looked clean. How can I tell for sure it is the distributor. The CEL is not "on". It has good acceleration and does not die while driving. Has anyone else solved this problem on the 93-98 model years? '99 model year went to a 3.3 L engine.
  • njcodanjcoda Member Posts: 1
    Ok so I have a 94 quest. I am poor and this is only vehicle... Firts problem was water pump and thermostat. changed replaced both. no more overheating. 2wks later drove vehicle 100miles, gave it an oil change and plug change, ran nice. out of nowhere after an appointment she refused to start. had to get a local mechanic to tow and repair. 300 bucks later a new fuel pump was installed, and the crank but will not start prob fixed. or so I thought. 2 days later while driving she just started bogging down and shut off on a hill. as if starved for gas. cranks but no start. towed to friends house. we then changed fuel filter thinking clogged. Nope. cranks but no start. next up was fuel relay on injecter rail, changed that. No start. pulled hose from top of filter, flow SEEMS ok, no tool to test presure. squirted ALOT when key turned on fuel pump. left car sit. put a battery in that was laying around and just for the heck of it tried turning over, and vrooom she turned, but died shortly after running her, 3-5 minutes, as soon as it hit a little incline. vehicle is now stuck again I need HELP please. also where is the OBD port on this ahem vehicle? Thanx
  • jjrdhwkjjrdhwk Member Posts: 2
    Replying to my original post. I took my van to a Nissan dealer. They claimed it was my injectors reading out of range, some high - some low when warmed up. All six were replaced. Van has run fine for 2 weeks. I hope they were right.
  • cchalversoncchalverson Member Posts: 17
    sounds expensive?
  • radennisradennis Member Posts: 3
    my villager just started this missing almost like choking started only after driving about 10 miles or so acts like its going to die has a few times took it in came up with a code p100 mass air flow senser or circut they said the signal drops out intermintenly have no idea what that means we replaced the maf sensor, maf meter or inlet duct, air duct due to crack and air filter box due to crack still having same problem. any help
  • denhamdenham Member Posts: 76
    Your Distributor just maybe your problem if you have high miles. The bearing on the Distributor shaft gets dry of lubricant with age and miles and as the engine runs the
    Distributor gets hot and you will get this code.
    Before spending any money I would check and replace the Distributor. You can buy one off EBay for less than $150.00.
    Also if you read the posts on the Villager and Nissan Quest you will find it helpful.
    Dennis
  • quest99quest99 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    Quest 1999- 6 cyl - 75 k miles
    Car was running fine BUT suddenly Yesterday when started engine it began to shake (blup - blup - blup...)
    - the engine light is now on.
    - It doesn' t stall but in Parking or neutral mode it shakes more that when running (you can feel it);
    - In the expressway it will go hardly to 55 m/h.
    Anyone knows what to do? :cry:
  • rockmobilerockmobile Member Posts: 115
    If the engine light is on you can take it to an Autozone and they will diagnose the problem for you.
    I also have a 99 Quest that is now pushing 180k with no mayor problems so far.
  • mozley44mozley44 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 nissan quest and the ac only blows cold when driving, once you sit at a light in idle the air stops working. I also notice the engine starts running hot , even to where it will overheat and i cant get it started until it cools down. Could this be my radiator fan, water pump? Where do i start, any ideas would help, thankyou email mozley44@yahoo.com
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You could have a couple of things going on. I would first address the "overheating" issue and have a mechanic look at the cooling system immediately. It could be as simple as a stuck thermostat. Also the overheating can do serious damage to your engine.
  • bruce3681bruce3681 Member Posts: 4
    I just went through similiar issues. I couldnt get any cold air. I was in the process of recharging my ac and the engine overheated. I researched it a bit and sure enough, I found a lot of air in the cooling system. Once I bled it off the engine ran at normal temperatures. Now I have to resolve how the air got in. Your fan should be on if the engine is overheating. Mine was at full speed during the process. Like dtownfb stated the thermostat could be stuck closed. The water pump usually leaks from a weephole when it is going bad.
  • pantheapanthea Member Posts: 1
    Here is the problems we are having and this is our only vehicle so figuring out the problem is a MUST. A week ago we noticed our Temperature Gauge said the van was running hot so we got out and checked that it wasn't actually running hot at all, all fluids were full and by touching the radiator it was still very cool to the touch. Someone suggested it was possibly the thermostat so we had someone to replace the thermostat for us. Well we would drive down the road a lil bit and the guage again would start rising up saying it was running hot but to the touch it still doesn't appear to be running hot at all. Was suggested that we possibly need to replace the temp sensor, we haven't done that as of yet. We have noticed that the heat isn't heating as it should when u turn the heater on. Last night while on a drive I noticed the gauge slowing rising up getting near close to dangerous levels, we had arrived at our destination and popped the hood, it still felt as if the radiator was cool to the touch upon popping the hood noticed all the fluids had ran back into the resevior well over the max level line. We went to leave several hours later and popped the hood before leaving noticed all fluids had ran back into radiator but after driving a couple of miles back down the road the gauge began to rise again. About 15 miles down the road we heard a small knocking clicking sound and the gauge immediately went back down into the safer normal level rather than on the upper line about to be in the red and stayed there for a lil while it began to rise again after we dropped off the last child we had to take home it did this same thing again and stayed in the normal range until we got home. My husband said he could feel when it did the clicking noise on the gas pedal. Any suggestions as to what could be going on? We have checked for leaks we have found no visible leaks in radiator or waterpump area.
  • jovangarciajovangarcia Member Posts: 6
    the air relief cap is under the throttle body and a little bit behind it. in broad daylight, preferrably with the sun behind you, AND with a flashlight, you should find it in no time. it's there, just keep looking.
  • irishjohnnyirishjohnny Member Posts: 1
    I blew a by pass hose on my 2000 qwest and now my idle is everywhere. It almost feels like its missing. Any thoughts on this?
  • joesnojoesno Member Posts: 2
    HEY THIS WAS SO HELPFUL TO ME . I JUST BOUGHT A 01 NISSAN QUEST 135 K AND HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM .NOW I KNOW WHAT IT IS THANKS SO MUCH ....VERY HELPFUL .MORE PEOPLE SHOULD JOIN THESE FORUMS REALLY HELP SAVE MONEY AND TIME
  • joesnojoesno Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    HAVE AN 01 QUEST 135 K JUST BOUGHT IT FROM PRIVATE SALE AND EVERY OTHER TIME I PRESSED MY BREAKS BREAK PEDAL WOULD FEEL AS IF I WERE FLOORING IT ON ICE .FOR EXAMPLE >MY BREAK PEDAL WOULD STUDDER < SO TOOK IT TO SEVERAL MECHANICS GOT BREAKS BLED .NEW MASTER CYLINDER ECT.ECT. TUNED OUT BEING...CV JOINT . UNDER DRIVERS SIDE RITE BEFORE THE BOOT WAS DANGLING FREELY ROUND THE AXLE. SOME SORT OF BREAK ABS SENCOR .BUT IT WOULD HAVE NEVER GOT NOTICED IF I WOULD NOT HAVE TOLD MECHANIC THE CAR WAS IN ABOUT SIX INCHES OF MUD BEFORE I BOUGHT IT .SO HE GRABED A WIRE BRUSH AND STARTED SCRAPING DRY MUD OFF THAT PART OF AXLE NEXT TO BOOT .WASNT MUCH DIRT ON IT BUT THATS WHEN HE NOTICED THAT LITTLE RING PIECE JUST FLOATING FREELY ROUND AXLE AND SAID OOOHH THATS THE PROMLEM YOU NEED A NEW AXLE . REPLACED IT AND WHALA
    FIXED STUDDERING BREAK PROBLEM..I THINK HE SAID THE LITTLE RING AROUND AXEL WAS SOME SORT OF SENSOR FOR ABS...HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE
  • 6cfw8006cfw800 Member Posts: 1
    I have a great '94 Quest GXE. Has run like a top for the 4 years I've owned it. @170k, it lopes and runs as though it's missing a few cylinders. It did this for a few blocks, then smoothed out. Again, and smoothed out. Today I started it, and it did this all the way to the dealer. Of course, they want to sell me a bill of goods I may not need. What is causing this?
  • lilblkshplilblkshp Member Posts: 2
    accelerates very slowly and shifts hard. when i finally get it going it runs fine. sometimes it stumbles a lil at idle but other than that it runs great. any suggestions?
  • rockmobilerockmobile Member Posts: 115
    When was your last tune-up?
  • pluiplui Member Posts: 5
    I have some problems of Mercury villager, built in 98/99, in last 6 months. I had a mechanic told me that a few sensors had problem, including knock sensor whick is a most expensive, $500 cost, after he scanned with a instrument when th engine light came on. I tried to have a mechanic to replace the knock sensor and fuel pump ( finding out later he did not replaced it), because another mechanic said 'you can tell if someone replace it'. Performance of vehicle did not get better and engine came on again.
    More than 2 weeks ago, I had my friend who worked at home, to inspect my vehicle and he said it needed a tune up and replaced fuel filter because my vehicle started jerking, stalled and quit. Same problem happened again, 1 day after I picked my vehicle.
    He is reluctant to take a look again when I returned the vehicle to him.
    Oh, I forgot to mention it. The vehicle started jerking and stalled after I ran it for 5-6 miles. Should I bring it to dealer to have a computer check?
    Please advise
  • rockmobilerockmobile Member Posts: 115
    Go to a place like Autozone and have them use a code reader to diagnose the problem(s).
    Some of these vans are known to have distributor failures, and if you have some mechanical ability you could look into it yourself, if not, have your friend take a look at it.
  • rosierose1rosierose1 Member Posts: 1
    Check your air filter. I was experiencing the same scenario with my Quest. Driving along and then poof I would start to lose acceleration as if gas was not getting to the engine.
    The dealer explained that the engine is having difficulty breathing. He checked the air filter and it was wet and debris was blocking the air intake. He said if the engine doesn't get enough air, this can shut the engine down, activate the engine light, make car repair guys perplexed as to the problem and then they start changing spark plugs and fuel pumps when all along it was the air filter!!!!!
    Good luck!
  • questproblemsquestproblems Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem and I am going crazy trying to figure out why it keeps overheating. It is my only vehicle and I dont know what to do. PLEASE HELP ME.
  • pluiplui Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for someone's reply to my previous question this morning.
    My another question is what is happened if distributor failures. My vehicle Mercury villager 98 or 99 became jerking, idle was slow, engine light came on and die after I ran it 5 or 6 miles. Fortunately, I could crank over again and kept it running in 20 mile mph to a safer place.
    I am appreciated if any one could give me some advice.

    Peter L
  • mchellmanmchellman Member Posts: 3
    I have to crank my 99 villager for 10 sec or 20 sec to get it to start. But if I depress the accelerator to the floor, it starts right away. I've inspected the relatively new spark plugs: no problem. After starting, the car runs fine. Also, if I try to start immediately after turning it off, it starts right away.

    Could this be anything but a leaking ejector? In other words, the car is flooding and cranking it for 10-20 sec just purges the rich fuel out of the cylinders. Alternately, if it was a leaking fuel regulator, then turning the ignition on for 5 sec and repeating would pressurize the fuel rail wouldn't it.
  • mchellmanmchellman Member Posts: 3
    As a previous poster said, go to autozone or other parts store and have them read the faults. Autozone will give you a printed output so there will be no confusion. You can report that here and see if anyone can diagnose your problem.

    I think that there are many, many possible causes. The fuel filter was a reasonable guess, but just a guess nonetheless.
  • pluiplui Member Posts: 5
    I found that the screen of scanner showed 4 sensors, P325 & P1336, and other two showed the same sensors/arrow up & down after the engine light came on.

    The problem showed the same when the vehicle started at beginning fine, but the idle became rough and stalled after I kept running more than 5 miles. I tried to put injetor cleaner, gas treatment, and the other one which the bottle is yellow, into gas tank everytime when I filled the gas tank
    more than half.

    May I have someone give me some idea?

    Best Regards,

    Peter
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    P0325 is a knock sensor code. If I remember right, this has to do with the distributor cap. It's a common failure on this vehicle.

    P1336 - pertains to the crankshaft position sensor not operating properly. From what I have read, this may able as simple as replacing the CKP or could indicate an issue with the ECU.

    Hopefully someone can give you more information on the P1336
  • johnnathanjohnnathan Member Posts: 4
    Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to allunium intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermost in ([non-permissible content removed]). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the hearter core lines ReverseLy, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well drainning you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a [non-permissible content removed] when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now [non-permissible content removed]!,,
  • johnnathanjohnnathan Member Posts: 4
    Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to alluminum intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermostat in ([non-permissible content removed]). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the heater core lines reversly, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well draining you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a [non-permissible content removed] when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now [non-permissible content removed]!,,
  • denhamdenham Member Posts: 76
    Have replaced 2 Distributors in Nissan Quest 3.3L in last year and now on the 3rd? Seems I am not the only one having this problem and seek advice!
    Dennis
  • rockmobilerockmobile Member Posts: 115
    I have 213k miles on a 99 Quest and have never had to replace a distributor. If you are using refurbished parts, then anything is possible.
  • denhamdenham Member Posts: 76
    Not using refurbished parts, and first distributor went out at 140.00 and now less than 20.000 miles have replaced 2 new distributors and now on the 3rd
    and get no eng codes.
  • murrey1murrey1 Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem in my 98 Quest 3 litre. The hose is molded is it not like a horseshoe shape? I need to know the insid ehos edimension before i take the old one off. Long story
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check RockAuto.com. If it's the cooling system by-pass hose, then the inside diameter is 1.060".

    Steve, visiting host
  • bjboscobjbosco Member Posts: 2
  • jarmanjarman Member Posts: 2
    hi i was wondering if you could help me out here i have a 97 quest with the 3.0,it has been leaking coolant for a year now,when it steams it comes from under the hood and wheel wells.i suspect the heater core or hose but cant get my big head in there to see anything!i have heard about plenums and such but i guess my question is this,is there an easier way to diagnose the problem myself?pressure test maybe?and just how difficult to replace the heater core in the quest?the water levels stays at a level where it will not overheat unless sitting at a light for awhile,we add some coolant about every few weeks.it does not steam every time but definiatly has a wicked smell.this is a terrific vehicle and it does have sentimental value.thanx for any tips or advice or help i may receive.
  • rockmobilerockmobile Member Posts: 115
    When it comes to leaks I tend to leave it all to the mechanics. These things are very difficult to trace unless the problem is right there in front of your eyes. As a matter of fact my van has had a slight oil leak for quite some time that not even my mechanic has been able to trace.
    Usually a dye is added to the coolant in order to trace the leak/leaks and then take it from there.
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I have the same issue with my 2002 Villager. Have to crank the engine for 3 or 4 seconds, then repeat a couple of times for it to start. But at least half the time it just starts right away like it should, without all the cranking. Doesn't matter if the engine's hot or cold. I've noticed lately that when it does happen, there's a slight smell of exhaust. Plugs are about a year old, so I don't think they're the problem, but I suspect injectors, but how would I check that? Or how would I check for a leaking fuel regulator?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's not a fix but one thing you can try is turning the key to "on" for ~5 seconds before actually cranking it. On my '99 Quest, if I listen, I can usually hear the fuel pump working to pressurize the system when I do this and it helps it to start the first time.

    On mine, subsequent starts aren't an issue; my van sits a lot and I guess loses a bit of pressure in the system.

    Steve, visiting host
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Member Posts: 8
    Steve, thanks for the fast reply. I tried what you said, and here's the interesting part: the pump made a muffled squeeling noise, as if it was on it's last leg, sort of like eeeee-ewwww-eeeeeee-ewwwww, but a little more sickly sounding. How's that for typing a noise!! Then the motor started right up. I shut it off and waited a few seconds, then repeated. This time, the pump sounded just like it normally would, a humming noise, pretty even in tone. Then the engine started right up again. Incidentally, the temp. is cold around here today, so maybe in the garage it was 45-50 deg.

    Maybe the pump is wearing out. The van has almost 130,000 miles on it, with the original pump. In fact all of the fuel system, except for the filter, is original. I will try your suggestion for the next several days and turn the key to ON and wait for the system to pressurize before starting, and see what happens. Thanks again!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited November 2012
    Ha, barely broken in. Mine's got 182k.

    Wish I was more of a mechanic - I could tell you stuff like whack the bottom of the gas tank with a rubber mallet and it would magically fix it. ;) If I tried that on mine, the spare tire would probably fall off. Good luck with it.
  • mchellmanmchellman Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I did solve the problem. I was nearly flooding the engine. The back pressure regulator on the fuel rail was leaking gas into the 1/4" tubing that connects the regulator to the intake manifold. When I took off the tubing, there actually was liquid gas in the tubing. I was lucky to even get the engine started.

    If this is your problem, be advised that it is extremely difficult to get the regulator out since the nice engineers at Nissan or Ford installed metal tubing right over the on top of it.
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for your reply. Since I posted over the weekend, we've been turning the key to the "on" position and waiting for the fuel pump to stop (about 3 or 4 seconds?), then starting the van. When the van's in the garage, it then starts every time on the first try. When the van's outside, after having been driven to the store for instance, it takes a couple of attempts to start. Before, when we weren't starting it this way, it would sometimes take 3 attempts to start in the garage (and you start to wonder if it's going to start at all). The stops at the store have been for as little as 5 minutes, or sometimes longer, maybe 1/2 hour or an hour. I'm wondering if the problem is the fuel pump, but I guess it could be several things. Van has about 130K miles, no fuel components have ever been replaced except the filter.
  • pulisubspulisubs Member Posts: 39
    Have a 2004 Nissan Quest. No problems all these years (believe it or not - one of those lucky ones that didn't have rattles). 107K miles.

    Had an oil change recently at the dealership. About two weeks after that I'm experiencing a knocking sound from the engine above 40 mph. It only comes on when I depress the gas pedal. I take my foot off the pedal and there's no knocking.

    Is that the drive belt going bad? Wanted to confirm if others faced the similar issues before taking it to a mechanic/dealer.

    Thanks,
    SP
  • johnnathanjohnnathan Member Posts: 4
    Make sure you do the coolant with the car up in front. Run around with a wire in cap, temporarily after all this. Don't over tighten the Belting or strip revese thread on belt mount adj . This is to the power steering pump and water pump-sucks! My car still having problems, I may have to replace the 02 sensor from the heat out out, oil and burring is bad for that. Good Luck Fans. Please close the bleader on top of motor as soon as you open it, or you will loose screw.
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