Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
this could be a number of things but I doubt it is fuel related. It could be related to the ECM or transmission (computer). Any other drivability issues? Does this happen all the time?
or bad gas cap or the vent valve stuck open. The computer does a cycle ever so often
and maintains the vent pressure build up in the gas tank and vapor canister, and if the purge valve sticks open the computer gives a check engine light and code as the pressure is not in the vapor storage tank when called for.
I would say you have a bad gas cap or open purge valve or a leak in a line or the stowage canister.
You may try taking a battery cable off and turn the key on in order to reset the computer, but if the light goes out it will come back when the computer does a cycle
if the vapor pressure is not there,
Since there is no "check engine" light, the best thing you can do is have a mechanic troubleshoot the problem. I would have the mechanic scan for codes event though the CEL is not on. Make sure they are aware that it happens all the time. A good mechanic should be able to isolate the problem. let us know how it ends up.
Distributor gets hot and you will get this code.
Before spending any money I would check and replace the Distributor. You can buy one off EBay for less than $150.00.
Also if you read the posts on the Villager and Nissan Quest you will find it helpful.
Dennis
Car was running fine BUT suddenly Yesterday when started engine it began to shake (blup - blup - blup...)
- the engine light is now on.
- It doesn' t stall but in Parking or neutral mode it shakes more that when running (you can feel it);
- In the expressway it will go hardly to 55 m/h.
Anyone knows what to do?
I also have a 99 Quest that is now pushing 180k with no mayor problems so far.
FIXED STUDDERING BREAK PROBLEM..I THINK HE SAID THE LITTLE RING AROUND AXEL WAS SOME SORT OF SENSOR FOR ABS...HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE
More than 2 weeks ago, I had my friend who worked at home, to inspect my vehicle and he said it needed a tune up and replaced fuel filter because my vehicle started jerking, stalled and quit. Same problem happened again, 1 day after I picked my vehicle.
He is reluctant to take a look again when I returned the vehicle to him.
Oh, I forgot to mention it. The vehicle started jerking and stalled after I ran it for 5-6 miles. Should I bring it to dealer to have a computer check?
Please advise
Some of these vans are known to have distributor failures, and if you have some mechanical ability you could look into it yourself, if not, have your friend take a look at it.
The dealer explained that the engine is having difficulty breathing. He checked the air filter and it was wet and debris was blocking the air intake. He said if the engine doesn't get enough air, this can shut the engine down, activate the engine light, make car repair guys perplexed as to the problem and then they start changing spark plugs and fuel pumps when all along it was the air filter!!!!!
Good luck!
My another question is what is happened if distributor failures. My vehicle Mercury villager 98 or 99 became jerking, idle was slow, engine light came on and die after I ran it 5 or 6 miles. Fortunately, I could crank over again and kept it running in 20 mile mph to a safer place.
I am appreciated if any one could give me some advice.
Peter L
Could this be anything but a leaking ejector? In other words, the car is flooding and cranking it for 10-20 sec just purges the rich fuel out of the cylinders. Alternately, if it was a leaking fuel regulator, then turning the ignition on for 5 sec and repeating would pressurize the fuel rail wouldn't it.
I think that there are many, many possible causes. The fuel filter was a reasonable guess, but just a guess nonetheless.
The problem showed the same when the vehicle started at beginning fine, but the idle became rough and stalled after I kept running more than 5 miles. I tried to put injetor cleaner, gas treatment, and the other one which the bottle is yellow, into gas tank everytime when I filled the gas tank
more than half.
May I have someone give me some idea?
Best Regards,
Peter
P1336 - pertains to the crankshaft position sensor not operating properly. From what I have read, this may able as simple as replacing the CKP or could indicate an issue with the ECU.
Hopefully someone can give you more information on the P1336
Dennis
and get no eng codes.
Steve, visiting host
Usually a dye is added to the coolant in order to trace the leak/leaks and then take it from there.
On mine, subsequent starts aren't an issue; my van sits a lot and I guess loses a bit of pressure in the system.
Steve, visiting host
Maybe the pump is wearing out. The van has almost 130,000 miles on it, with the original pump. In fact all of the fuel system, except for the filter, is original. I will try your suggestion for the next several days and turn the key to ON and wait for the system to pressurize before starting, and see what happens. Thanks again!
Wish I was more of a mechanic - I could tell you stuff like whack the bottom of the gas tank with a rubber mallet and it would magically fix it. If I tried that on mine, the spare tire would probably fall off. Good luck with it.
If this is your problem, be advised that it is extremely difficult to get the regulator out since the nice engineers at Nissan or Ford installed metal tubing right over the on top of it.
Had an oil change recently at the dealership. About two weeks after that I'm experiencing a knocking sound from the engine above 40 mph. It only comes on when I depress the gas pedal. I take my foot off the pedal and there's no knocking.
Is that the drive belt going bad? Wanted to confirm if others faced the similar issues before taking it to a mechanic/dealer.
Thanks,
SP