Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems

2

Comments

  • tmemersontmemerson Member Posts: 2
    My front driver side break pad has worn down and is rubbing gauging the rotor. The passenger side has pleny of pad left and the rears are in excellent shape...any thoughts?
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    My front driver side break pad has worn down and is rubbing gauging the rotor. The passenger side has pleny of pad left and the rears are in excellent shape...any thoughts?

    The brake caliper needs to be replaced, and both front calipers should be replaced at the same time. When replacing, be sure to install the caliper with the bleeder valve on the top side.

    If the problem persists, there may be a clog in the brake line.
  • tmemersontmemerson Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I figured the same but only have 30k miles on the car, thought it weird one side was bad the rest were fine. We will see what they say.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I put on what I believe are NAPA near premium rotors (slotted, $125/pair) and pads ($70 pair, they had some around $30 & 60 also) on my front brakes a couple months ago prior to selling my 01 JGC to my son with the Jeep now @ 85k miles (I bought an 07 JGC @ YE closeout). This was the first replacement since we had the dealer do it under warranty @ 36k miles so I do say the upgrade Jeep parts were better than the originals especially since we had more in town miles & braking the last few years. I questioned paying that much for NAPA but my mechanic likes their stuff and I've had good luck going there for "kid car" parts. My son doesn't always watch car maintenance so I wanted him to have a reasonably good/safe system going off to college, good to read your opinion here on these NAPA parts.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I've got a buddy who works as a "service writer" in a NAPA machine shop. He helped me fathom my way through the NAPA offerings, and so far, it continues to be a good choice. My best to you and your son on yours!
  • oakley3oakley3 Member Posts: 2
    Please help!

    My Jeep is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.

    I hear a hissing/whooshing sound as soon as I start it. The sound seems to be coming from the brake booster.

    When I use the brakes at any time, the hissing/whooshing sound stops. But when I release the brake pedal, the sound starts again.

    The braking system works well.

    Any advice?
    Sure would appreciate it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    brake booster need to be replaced, seal around where the rod from brake peddle is leaking
    brakes will still work but you will have a prob with valves and stuff as it allowes the fuel mixture to lean out where the vacuem line is hooked to the engine thus causing the temp to rise in that area of the engine poss causing internal damage
  • dzheepadzheepa Member Posts: 2
    Hi, please could someone help me bear some light on a problem with my Jeep Cherokee Orvis it is 1999 model, and everytime it goes on ice the brakes dont work properly and makes this horrible grinding sound. Otherwise it is perfect, it is definately something to do with the ABS, as when I take the fuse out its fine.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Could it be that it's just the natural sound of your ABS in operation?
  • dzheepadzheepa Member Posts: 2
    Hi, thanks for your reply.. no, theres something wrong the grinding is very loud and braking is very bad when it happens
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    That may be dangerous. Maybe you'd better get a good mechanic to check it out, just to stay safe.
  • windsock3windsock3 Member Posts: 1
    I was forced to use Midas to repair the brake booster in my 99 Grand Cherokee last April. Since then I've had numerous problems with my cruise control disconnecting for no reason. I recently had an electric car starter installed and I'm having the same problems with that as well. My question is could the mechanic that installed the brake booster have done anything to the system to make this happen. It's as thought the brake pedal is being inadvertently tapped to disconnect the other systems. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    brake light switch needs to be ajusted
  • iman408iman408 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having the same problem. Does anyone have the answer for this??
  • mihood2000mihood2000 Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to change brake pads and cant get the bolts undone. I am using an 18 MM socket. Are these left handed threads?
  • brian_2223brian_2223 Member Posts: 1
    Could be the master cylinder.
  • arbordevarbordev Member Posts: 1
    4.0 6cyl.

    The chime was going off advising me that my coolant was low. Upon a further look, I found that the float had fallen off the float sensor in the plastic tank, I fixed it and put it back on. Unfortunately the screen and chime kept saying the coolant was low, so I finally went to jeep and bought a new sensor and seal for the coolant tank. After installing it, I had not gone fifteen minutes and the chime and the screen advised me that the coolant was low.

    Help!!!!!!
  • sfarnsworthsfarnsworth Member Posts: 1
    Hi i'm having a problem with the pedal going almost to the floor when the engine
    is running. With the engine off pedal is normal.
    the abs light is on.
    i have changed all the fluid and bleed the system.
    any help would be appreciated
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    "i'm having a problem with the pedal going almost to the floor when the engine
    is running. With the engine off pedal is normal.    "

    Sounds like there is either air in the lines or a problem with the power booster. This happened to me when I didn't pay attention and installed new front brake calipers on the wrong sides, which put the bleed valve at the bottom instead of the top (allowing air to remain in the calipers.)
  • andrew82andrew82 Member Posts: 1
    we changed the brake pads,rotars, calipers, and bleed the whole system, and the brakes are still real soft and they go all the way to the floor and dont even stop, i have had a few idea's as far as changing the master cylinder, any ideas.
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    Don't tell anyone, but I made the mistake of installing new calipers on the wrong sides one time which resulted in the brake pedal going to the floor. Just make sure the bleeder valve is at the top. ;)
  • pjs412pjs412 Member Posts: 2
    I recently changed a bad booster on my 89 cherokee. the master cylinder worked fine before i changed the booster so i put it back on. i bled the system until i had clean fluid at all 4 wheels, yet had little resistance on the pedal. so i installed a new master and bled the system again. still had little resistance on the pedal so i adjusted the plunger on the booster out. it now stops, but too well. the pedal is VERY sensitive so much so that the pedal doesn't travel far enough to operate the brake lights, but the pedal will still travel all the way to the floor. What do I need to try next?
  • robie2robie2 Member Posts: 4
    hello i have a 1990 jeep cherokee and it seem to just have the front brakes working does anyone know if there is a sensor or wire that can correct this problem thank you
  • robie2robie2 Member Posts: 4
    hello does anyone know if there is a sencor or wire or vacuum hose to the brake booster or master cylinder because it seem that my front brakes only work i cheked my brake pads and all are ok can anyone help me please thanks
  • robie2robie2 Member Posts: 4
    hello not sure if i am doing this write i am new to this site i am trying to post 1 but i get directed to last so i will try again i have a 1990 cherokee and i only have front brakes working does anyone know if there is a sencor or wire or vacuum line to the booster or mastercylinder thanks
  • cschow1cschow1 Member Posts: 1
    it only happens after I have been driving for a while. We have replaced both calipers and the master cylinder. Any Ideas?
  • dkblue69dkblue69 Member Posts: 1
    In my estimation, your over-heated brakes are being caused by sticky calipers. Many times, when you replace brake pads, this forces the internal piston seals to operate in a region that has accumulated residue (rust, sludge, etc). I have had the same thing happen on my Chevy truck. You may be able to get away with just changing pads once without this happening, but its likely you would either need to change the calipers or rebuild them with new piston seals after honing the caliper cylinders for the car's second brake job. I know this is probably getting to you about two years late, but there it is.
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Member Posts: 13
    whats your fluid look like, i would say on each wheel bleed the brakes, if that didnt help any then go with master cylinder. i am prosuming the abs has no codes. it sounds like the master cyclinder isnt releasing. :confuse:
  • ajrock2000ajrock2000 Member Posts: 2
    1998 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4x4 Automatic

    I just replaced the front u-joints, rotors, and pads on it. However after test driving the jeep, a horrible clunking/griding noise comes from what sounds like the front left side of the jeep at LOW speeds. Applying the brake at 35mph+ renders nothing at all, just at low speeds. It is very loud and annoying, you can feel it right in the pedal. Any ideas? I double checked the pads/rotors and everything looks fine. I am guessing it has something to do with ABS? I need help! Thanks...
  • drbrakedrbrake Member Posts: 1
    It is most likely that you have set the booster output pushrod too long.
    This rod should almost never be adjusted. The tolerance on the rod length is ± 0.007"

    With the rod too long you are keeping the ports in the master cylinder closed and pressure is building up in the system and probably dragging the brakes.

    Back off the length of the rod until you are sure you are not trapping any pressure in the system. This has to be checked with vacuum in the booster and the system at normal operating temperatures.

    hope this helps
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    on my 2000 grand the brake peddel return is the boster it self when you get brake drage just put your toe under the brake peddle and lift tworde you see if releases the brakes if does then look for binding in the pins that conect the boster to the peddle
  • docsjeepdocsjeep Member Posts: 2
    airock2000 did you ever find the answer to your problem because I have the exact same issue and it is driving me crazy trying to find an answer.
  • ajrock2000ajrock2000 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I did! I had recently replaced the u-joints in the front wheels and part of the spindle got broken a bit with the hammer, so when it was spinning the abs sensor was not picking up the correct reading, so at low speeds it caused the abs to kick in and go haywire. What I did was disconnect the abs sensor in the front wheel and it turned the abs off, now my brakes work fine.
  • trailrated39trailrated39 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all!

    I've got a 2004 Grand Cherokee (Limited, 4.7V8, etc) that is coming up on 150K and is in need of some new brake components once again. Rather than go to the shop and get bent over like usual, I'm going to just tackle this one myself. I've done it before, so that's not the issue. My problem is that I don't know what pads and rotors to go with.

    Now, I'm not looking to cheap out here. I'd like to get some pads that offer good performance for towing. I pull a 12 foot open trailer for both work and play, with loads ranging from a couple motocross bikes to 2000 pound of various raw materials. So towing performance is mandatory.

    Conversely, this Jeep- despite being dearly loved- has seen a hard life of work, play and roadtrips, and wil probably be lucky to see 200k, so I don't want to get anything too expensive. Just something to last me the life of the vehicle.

    Thanks
    James
  • trailrated39trailrated39 Member Posts: 3
    Ah, jeez, I don't know how I ended up posting in this, I meant to start a new discussion. Sorry.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    This is probably as good a place as any. People tend to follow exisiting discussions and may not see a brand new one anyway, especially if it seems to be a "duplicate".
  • ppaul3ppaul3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi James,

    I just finished my brake job this afternoon. I went with the ceramic pads from auto zone. They all had a life time warranty. so I went with the cheep ones. I found out during my pizza delivery days that the metallic pads did last longer but the rotors didn't last as long. If you need to take the rotors off, good luck!. You need to get the retaining clip off the stud the get the biggest hammer you have and beat the hell out of it to loosen it off the hub. use a piece of wood to protect the rotor.
  • rsjeeprsjeep Member Posts: 2
    hello, i have a 2002 jeep grand cherokee overland. i just changed the front rotors and pads and also changed the rear rotors and pads, i have a squeaking noise coming from the back, i had the same noise before i changed all the parts. anybody know what the problem is? plz help the noise is driving me nuts!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    rear wheel bearing?
  • rsjeeprsjeep Member Posts: 2
    well what happened was i changed the brake pads and rotors on the rear and the noise stopped for 3 days and now its back as it was before i changed the rotors and brakes,,
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could still be a wheel bering as you shake stuff up when you work on it

    try to find the side that makes noise then then jack up that side and turn wheel to see or feel roughness as you turn the wheel
  • virosariovirosario Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I just bought a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and it needs rear brake pads and rotors. I took it to the dealer and to other auto care center and the difference in the price from both places is $83. Is it worth paying that extra in the dealer? What could be the difference in the results? I'll appreciate any suggestions, thanks
  • ddietrichddietrich Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    I just put new calipers,pads and rotors. We bled brakes. Could this be the brake booster ? How hard is it to replace? :cry:
  • josiecat864josiecat864 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has this car and everytime she touches the brakes the car shakes and sounds like metal hitting metal. My boyfriend was going to replace the pads but when he checked all 4 were good. She is away at college and says its getting worse. What could it be???
  • amata2010amata2010 Member Posts: 2
    Hello I have a 2001 JGC Limited. I'm getting a weird clankin or clicking noise when coming to a stop also I could feel it in the axle like if something is slowing it down. I changed the rotors and brake pads on all 4 wheels and just recently got new tires. this problem has been going on for about 3-4 months now. usually it happens when driving far or If I brake hard. Anyone have an idea of whats going on?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    check you front drive shaft

    took mine out and drove jeep had bad cvjoint at lower end and that was the problem
  • hrudolphhrudolph Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, this may have already been asked and I missed it, but I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 6cyl with 76,000 miles that I just purchased. After starting the vehicle, the first few times that I hit the brakes, it makes a substantial squeak in the front end on the drivers side. After a few times of applying the brakes, the sound goes away and usually does not appear the rest of the ride. The next time I go somewhere, it happens again. I am thinking that it may be the rotor and once it gets warm the problem goes away. The previous owner said they had it looked at several times and the brakes replaced and it never fixed the problem. Any ideas/comments are appreciated.

    Thanks
  • amata2010amata2010 Member Posts: 2
    I would check out your wheel bearings. Due to bad bearings the noise stops when they heat up. I dont see a problem being with the brakes.
  • buellrider77buellrider77 Member Posts: 1
    robie2, I have a 1989 Grand Cherokee that has the same problem. What I have found out so far is that if I use Partial Four Wheel Drive, both the front and rear brakes work properly. I am not sure what the remedy is for the rear brakes not working in 2-wheel drive at this time. I would be curious to know if what I have been doing to get all of my Jeeps brakes to work will help your problem. If I figure this out, you will be the first to hear from me.--Phil
  • twintstwints Member Posts: 2
    Problems with REAR brakes. Have replaced both rear calipers, pads, rotors, brake lines; all emergency brake assembly and hardware is NEW. Pads are engaging onto rotors @ 20+ mph with rubbing sound like initial wear-in of new pads to new rotors and turning rotors blue and glazing pads. Truck stops square and noise stops when brakes are applied. Looking at proportioning valve now. Where is the proportioning valve located on this vehicle? Any other ideas?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles