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2008 Subaru Legacy
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Comments
I've been in the market for a new car for a little over a year now, and I've had a very conservative approach thus far. I've test driven several different cars, from the Toyota Prius, Nissan Sentra, Hyundai Elantra, and Subaru Outback.
I'm currently driving a 2000 Honda Civic LX (Automatic, 87500 miles) that recently has been making some odd noises and other little things that are making it start showing its age. Aside from the timing belt maintenance (suggested by the dealer at 65000 miles/5 years), I've been up on everything else and have the maintenance records available, it's in pretty good working condition save for random noises that come and go every few months (I check the fluids, cables, nothing seems to be low/worn/etc.).
I'm at the point now where I've decided Subaru will definitely be the manufacturer of my next car. I originally was a little uneasy about the 170hp engine only getting 27MPG, but the safety of the All-Wheel Drive vastly outweighs the extra 13MPG I typically get with my Civic - especially after I've been doing 360's down major highways during rain and snow up here in New Jersey.
I'm torn between whether or not I should go for the 2008 Legacy or wait for the 2009's or 2010's. I've seen on multiple forums that there's a redesign right around the corner for the Legacy, most suggest 2010 for the change (larger chassis, VDC standard, etc.), but 2009 only has minor cosmetic upgrades like sound.
Regarding VDC, I could take it or leave it, as all it is is Acceleration Slip Reduction which has been on Volkswagens for years, and I don't peel out ever when I'm accelerating so this is more or less a moot point for me.
So, again, here's what I'm trying to get an impression of with this thread:
1. Is it worth waiting for 2009-2010 (is there a major model change around the corner?)
2. What is the typical maintenance cost at the dealer (average, slightly cheaper, slightly more expensive)?
3. Do you prefer the Subaru dealer for service?
4. Any other thoughts or comments regarding the model?
Thanks!
Between a 2008 and a 2009, I would take the deal on the 2008 right now. Unless the 09 doesn't cost any more (they should arrive very soon).
The only extra maintenance is to change the fluid on the rear differential, which takes one quart of gear oil (80w90). It's not hard to do at all.
I don't think 45 cents per day should sway your decision either way, buy the one that puts the bigger smile on your face.
Definitely stick with at least 91 octane for the GT. Around me, Sunoco sells 87, 89, 91, and 93. So 91 octane is actually cheaper than 93 at those stations. May be worth looking into...
-mike
I would say, in your instance, where you not "needing" the VDC to get a 2008. I bought a Legacy Limited in March (for the VDC), and got a very good deal, even with Subarus being very popular in Utah.
2. What is the typical maintenance cost at the dealer?
I've done some reasearch on the 3 Subaru dealers close to my home. Their prices for service are about the same as any other dealer.
3. Do you prefer the Subaru dealer for service?
I live in a condo, so I can't do my own maintenance. I generally use the dealer for convenience - I work right next to an automall, so I can drop the car off in the morning, or get oil changes done during my lunch hour, etc. Talking with other Subaru owners, there are a lot of good independent mechanics out there.
4. Any other thoughts or comments regarding the model?
My Legacy is the first Subaru I have owned. Overall, I really like it, especially in the snow. The interior will be considered "cramped" by your average american. I think the interior is just the right size - not too large, not too small. It has adequate power, but honestly, I was expecting more given the size of the engine (I don't have the turbocharger). The leather on my Limited seems of good quality. The auto climate control is "wierd," and I have to do a lot of manual adjustment as I'm driving.
Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Subaru.
I was VERY impressed with my recent Legacy 2.5i SE test drive. I don't want the limited, nor do I want the 3.0 liter engine because of fuel economy and a personal preference (I don't like leather, especially in summer)
I wish they had heated seats with the cloth interior.
Thanks for the great replies! Crunching the numbers back and forth with Subaru dealer near me and hopefully will be a proud owner of an `08 Legacy.
It's my understanding that VDC is ASR, or acceleration slip reduction, this prevents too much power being transfered from the engine to the wheels, which will eliminate the "peel out" jackrabbit starts. If it does something else, maybe I'll wait for `09's.
VDC is Traction Control plus Stability Control.
Stability Control will attempt to keep you in the direction you intended to go. This is done by either applying the brakes to a specific wheel or reducing engine power.
-mike
Auto-start though, hmm, just can't bring myself to do that. If there was a dealer autostart built into the keyless, perhaps, but I don't want an aftermarket thingie.
Thanks for the responses. When are the `09's due? July?
Information:
STANDARD STABILITY CONTROL
For 2009, the Subaru stability control system – Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) – is standard on all Outback and Legacy models except the Legacy 2.5GT Limited with five-speed manual transmission. The system helps to prevent skidding due to understeer or oversteer by managing individual wheel braking and/or reducing engine power to correct the slide. This system adds to driver control of the vehicle, improving active safety.
End Quote.
Fantastic! 2009 it is - even if it's more money because it's an `09 and not a leftover `08, VDC appears to be well worth it - I mistakenly thought it was JUST ASR (which isn't new technology).
Thanks!
Wonder why they didn't put it on that one single model? Strange. Maybe they wanted one model where people who did not want it to have an option.
Shoot, early on, it was a model name, too, i.e. Outback VDC.
I recently purchased (and enjoying) a 2008 Spec B. Looking for comments/answers to the following:
1. I will be purchaing a set of winter wheels/tires. Are there any issues going to 17" wheels with 205/50/17 tires? (the speedo reading will be off by 2.1%, which I think is within an acceptable range)
2. When it's time to replace the stock summer tires, will 235/40/18 fit the stock 18" wheel? Any clearance issues going to this option?
3. Re Oil changes. When is it appropriate to start using synthetic oil for the 2.5 turbo engine?
Also, would Castrol 0W30 or Mobil 1 0W40 synthetic be okay to use rather than the 5W30 currently suggested in the owner's manual? (I use the Castrol and Mobil 1 in my A4's 1.8T engine, as these appear to be the 'best' oils for turbos to prevent sludging.)
Thank you,
Nick
Better to go to a synthetic sooner than later. I'm pretty sure Mike (Paisan is his user name) has said some gasket problems surface if you use conventional for a long time then switch to the synthetics (because synthetics are smaller, uniform molecules and they slip through the gaskets since the gaskets are "used to" the larger molecules of conventional)
Reference the different wheel sizes, if your speedometer is off, then most likely your odometer would be off too. This would affect the mileage on your vehicle.
I personally haven't switched to a purely seasonal tire, I prefer all-season since we only have a few days of bad snow yearly here in New Jersey. The rain is more of the motivation behind purchasing a new `09 Legacy.
On the Snow Tires:
I'm in NJ and use summers and snows.
If going to summers I wouldn't go narrower than 215-45-17, as that's stock. I run Nokian Hakka RSi snows and they are GREAT in the snow/slush/rain we have here in NJ.
On Synthetics- I would wait to 5,000 miles before switching and wouldn't switch after 60-70k of regular.
On the SPT Exhaust, I have it on my 05 wagon, it gives you a bit more power and throttle response and has a nice tone. I happen to know the manager of SPT who designed it and it's a nice unit. The actual increase is 12hp/15lbs of torque at the wheels, so not sure the 30/30 is correct at the crank or not.
-mike
I have seen excellent reviews on the Nokian RSi, so I will definitely keep them in mind when choosing a winter tire.
I will wait until the second oil change to convert to the synthetic.
Nick
Do you have the high flow air intake and heat sheild as well as the SPT exhaust? The parts guy at the local dealer gave me the SPT brochure and that's where he quoted the 30 HP and 30 ft-lb increases for using all three products together.
-mike
I'm planning on doing a Cobb DP and the Access Port. Just found out that the "stage 2" map bumps you to 305hp/385lbs torque at the flywheel. Those are some gains that would be nice to see.
-mike
PS: I might be interested in your intake, although I am not a big fan of intakes.
Thanks, Austin
Sorry for the delay. For some reason replies to me are not coming to my email. I just happened to stumble across yours. My direct email is woodward-slc@comcast.net
I definetly notice the low end torque loss, but I feel it come on a little stronger as the turbo spools up. I think I am going to remove the intake and go back to stock. I do not track my car (yet anyway) so I would rather have the low end.
If you are interested in SPT intake and heat shield they have only been on the car about three weeks. I paid $270 for both. What would a fair price be if I pay the shipping?
Also I notice a stumble in acceleration as I climb through 4000 rpm. I have not asked the dealer about it. Any ideas?
I'll shoot you an e-mail or shoot me one to mike@iace.com on the intake, I'm not sure I want it either!
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Edmunds forums have been a wealth of information for me over the years so I'd like to "give back" and provide a report on my Legacy Spec B.
I purchased the vehicle in May 2008 and have approx 12,000 km, (6000 mi).
Spec B are very expensive in Canada, ($45,000 Cdn). I did not intend on buying a Spec B but (due to the high Canadian $), Subaru was offering $7000 off for cash purchases. I paid $500 over invoice, minus the $7000 and I traded in my 2000 Forester.
Interior:
The interior rivals our Audi A4 in build quality and materials. The Sport Seats are comfortable and the Alcantara keeps you in place during spirited driving. The interior lighting is very nice at night.
Interior space is sufficient for my family.
Nav and info display are very good.
No complaints with the HVAC.
The Legacy's cabin is a nice place to be in.
Exterior:
The Diamond Gray color looks sharp and the 18" wheels look great. IMO it rivals any of the European and Japanese spots sedans in exterior looks.
Driving experience:
Handling is excellent, power is more than sufficient.
The steering is touch lighter than preferred. I attribute this to the the car only having 215 tire width. I might try a wider tire when the stocks are replaced.
The 6-spd feels smooth and the clutch light with a nice catch point.
Mileage:
Better than expected. Average is 10 liters/100 km (approx 24 MPG) I drive 100 kms (60 mi) per day, in a mixture of highway and downtown city driving.
Two complaints:
1. There is a rattle (actually more of a clicking sound) in the dash in the glove box area. Not sure if others have experienced similar noises. I plan on returning to the dealer to have it looked at, (I have been hoping it fixes itself but no luck).
2. One day it was raining and I went to a drive thru bank teller, which had a canopy. Upon rolling down the window a stream of water poured into the car, (what the...?). Well, it seems there is no channel in the roof of the Legacys, as in many cars, so the water tends to flow into the car when the roof is wet. Not a biggie, but a surprise the first time it happened.
At this price point I would have expected to see the following on the Spec B:
1. HIDs- The headlights are fine, but HIDs give it that 'premium' look. HIDs are standard on the base Tribeca but not the higher end Spec B, very odd.
2. Auto Up-Down for, at minimum, the driver and passenger. Currently only Auto down on the driver.
3. Trunk release handle/mechanism on the trunk, (to open trunk). Grab handle to close the trunk.
4. Stereo sounds good, but it could use a sub woofer and a couple of extra speakers.
As with any Subaru, I am looking forward to drivng it this winter. I have purchased 4 Toyo Garit KX winters, 215-50-17. I had to buy alloy winter rims as steelies are not available in 17".
This is a great car in so many respects and I do not regret the purchase. I have received several unsolicted compliments from strangers. Friends have commented, "... wow, THAT'S a Subaru.
There are so few Spec Bs on the road that I think people take a second look when they first see it.
Overall the Spec B is a great driver's car. Even with my minor complaints I would definitely recommend it.
Apologies for the long post.
Nick
I was reading on this forum somewhere that someone tinted their windows and started to have radio signal issues awhile back as the antenna is on the back windshield. So i was just wondering is this a common issue and how do I go about avoiding this issue and still getting my windows tinted??
I'm thinking about 35% all around or even a little bit darker.
HTH
Robert
Recently I have tried to do my own tire rotation for 2.5i limited. I jacked up the car and loosen all nuts.. Manage to pull the front tires out with ease. However when it came to the rear tires, I was unable to remove them. Is there a special way to remove rear tires or am I just not pulling hard enough? - I did not want to force the issue as the fronts were so easy to remove.
In addition, I have Yokohama Advan A82. From what I have read you're supposed to take the front two tires and just move them to the back on the same side. As for the rear you do a "X" like formation (ex. rear passenger side to front driver side)
Any help will be appreciated
Try some penetrating oil and tap lightly with a hammer (with a piece of wood between to protect the wheel). Careful - make sure your jack stands are very secure and do not get under the car.
Before you mount them again, clean the rust off. Not sure what you could spread on there to prevent that from happening again, maybe some anti-seize or brake caliper lube (on the face only, not on the threads of the lugs).