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I located the leak by smelling where the fuel smell was coming from. I just fan the air around the tank and smell for fuel vapors on a hot car. I found this to be the leak after I inspected just about every hose, fuel system part, and connection in the engine bay. If a mechanic is clueless after checking all the engine bay stuff they might do a leak detection test with a fancy smoke machine.
The Dealer is about right on the $700 price tag. this particular model has issues with the design of the fuel tank pump unit that is mounted on top of the fuel tank. There is a small white plastic elbow nipple on top of the jet pump assembly. This elbow is put under stress and eventually cracks causing check engine lights. You will clearly see the stress caused by a rubber hose designed to be too short. Add to that some flexing of the fuel tank while driving and you've got yourself a recipe for a cracked plastic elbow bend.
In order to access this area you need to remove the fuel tank which isn't an easy task for most DIYers though it can be done.
To remove the fuel tank you need to first remove the exhaust which is pretty straight forward though the unit is one piece and long and heavy. Both the exhaust and tank will be easier to move and handle with proper supports or a helper. There are only two brackets and like 4 bolts holding the tank in place, then there are a few connections and hoses. Even with the vehicle off, there was fuel in the fuel lines so have a container available to catch the fuel that comes out of the fuel line when you disconnect it.
For a generic brand replacement part for the jet pump installed in the top of the fuel tank you can pay around $150. You can't just buy the plastic elbow because it's cast into the entire pump assembly. I know that the dealer might put in an OEM unit and it could be double that or more for parts. I would not suggest plastic welding or jerry rigging to fix the crack.
So that's $300 minimum for parts.
Then add an hour for their diagnostics, and another 2 hours to remove and replace the fuel tank and install filter. If they charge you over $100 an hour in labor then it can add up to $700 fairly easy.
You should get a much better deal at a private mechanic, especially if you point out to them what the problem is so they don't spin their wheels trying to diagnose where the leak is.
The DIY cost would be around $150-$200 depending on the part you buy.
Most mechanics will give you a new gas cap first because that will cause the same issues as the leak nipple on top of the fuel tank.
I haven't had near the problems that others have had. I have a abs monitor light on. But my mechanic already told me that it's a bad sensor that he can fix for fairly cheap.
Good luck!
No transmission issues [had one service where they filtered the fluid] @70000.
Have replaced 3 motor mounts [two rear,one front left].
Big issue is the oil loss.
I hope to find out the solution to the oil burning. Just put in a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Not sure that will help but several others suggested I try this idea.
I want to drive the car until 150000 and the cost of the oil is minor [now that I know the issue] Thanks for suggestions.
My advice is drive it and enjoy it.