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Hyundai Sonata Front Suspension "Thunk"

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Comments

  • 2002slt2002slt Member Posts: 228
    The consensus of who? I have not seen anyone who has experienced hearing the thunking issue in earlier model years testify that 09's are exempt. Have you?

    LOL Aren't you allowed in a dealer to test drive an '09?

    I will guarentee you that MY '09 does not "clunk".
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    This forum can only be as effective as its readers, and especially posters. Please do not let this forum degenerate into [non-permissible content removed] for tat posts as if each post was designed to stand by itself as opposed to a thread supported by past posts.
    The thunking issue has been described and addressed in detail in past posts as well as diagnosis by ASE certified mechanics. Those who take a position that mechanical noises found objectionable to some should be permissible to others have no place here - especially if that view says that a car in a certain price range should be allowed to have defects. This is a forum to share information and possible solutions by responsible posters.
    I can only ask that those who want to rant one way or the other - or spread disinformation please leave the forum for the sake of those who are plagued with a genuine problem with their car. I was one of those until the struts and upper mounts were replaced and have seen and heard what it turns into if left unaddressed.
    Thank you for your cooperation.
  • dgs4dgs4 Member Posts: 66
    I would say you have nothing to worry about. I would not classify the suspension as harsh by any stretch of the imagine. The car is definitely not a sports sedan, but it's just firm enough to make it fun in the curves. I think the 09 strikes the best balance between comfort and sport, definitely more on the comfort side. When I test drove an 08 Accord I found that car to be way too stiff for me. It was very uncomfortable over bumps. The Sonata handles them much better. Also the Sonata is incredibly quiet. Very little road noise makes it into the cabin. It's a very tranquil place to be on a long drive, as the seats are very comfortable, the suspension is very comfortable, and the noise is very faint. Amazing highway car; you could drive it for many hours and never fatigue. I say you test drive one to see how you like.

    Imaxic thanks for the description of the sound, however I have never heard a ball joint crunch either. I guess the bottom line is, unless Hyundai releases a TSB or recall for suspension related problems I'm not going to worry about. I can deal with noises in a mass produced $25,000 car. If it's a safety issue that's a different story, and thus far I have not heard of any suspension problems for the Sonata.
  • auld_dawgauld_dawg Member Posts: 40
    I don't know that its fair to jump on someone who hasn't experienced the same problem you have, when he has asked for a description to see if the same thing could be applied to his car.....

    I think some folks have definitely had a problem with their cars. I took this particular thread into consideration when I was shopping, just like I took the VCM thread of the Honda into consideration........ so its definitely been valuable to me.

    On the other hand, I now have a 2008 GLS V6, that doesn't have the "thunking" problem. I tested it before buying it. I thus owe you and others a debt of gratitude, for something to check before buying.....

    On the other hand, I think its fair for folks to ask questions, if they do not know exactly what is being described.........
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You make some good points, but there is a lot of information here already. I think it would be a good idea if people who aren't sure this is an issue would go back and read the rest of this thread and then come ask their questions.

    Compared to some threads around here, it's not really that long. ;)
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Can you please define the "Honda VCM" problem (I guess it is a problem). I try to keep up with various issues on cars I own and I own a 2006 Civic so if this applies to Civic's I like to be made aware. If it applies to some other vehicles in the Honda line I'd still like to know but without the urgency.
  • bhubbard1bhubbard1 Member Posts: 1
    There are tons of videos on the hyundai sonata showing standard options such as esc.(electronic stability control) This is an active system that is also a proven life saver and just might make a little thud while it's doing it's job. Being the owner of a 07 sonata limited i'v had a few warranty related issues from hardcore driving but was resolve with minor adjustments. One more thing is that the engine mounts are hydrualic and hold the engine in tight with very limited play and in a car that has one of the stiffest frames availible in it's class, you can count on road noise.
    Here is some other researched info that may put your mind at ease. This car also has a locking torque convertor that is suppose to clunk when it locks up any where from 20 - 40 mph (normaly). Hope this helps. Brian

    ps. I will take my chances of swerving out of the path of an 18 wheeler in my $27k Hyundai any day rather than realizing that my quiet $395,500 bently can't and having to brace for the impact. You forgot 2 add n the lux tax^
  • auld_dawgauld_dawg Member Posts: 40
    Hello Targettuning

    Its and Accord issue, "2008 Honda Accord VCM" or something like that on the Accord boards........

    Link.......

    golfrski, "2008 Honda Accord VCM" #1, 1 Nov 2007 7:42 pm

    Read it all, interesting read.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    It's much appreciated! :)
  • bksssbksss Member Posts: 21
    I have a 2008 Sonata with a four speed automatic transmission and four cylinder engine. When I travel up a local highway river hill my engine gains about 200 rpm with the cruise control on and speed remaining constant. I don’t think my torque converter is locking up. Has anyone noticed and engine rpm increase when going up hills at a constant road speed? Thanks for any info.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    The engine is probably calling for more fuel to maintain the speed, just as you would have to step on the gas pedal more to maintain the same speed going up that hill.

    It's not a torque converter lock up question. You would face the same issue with a manual transmission.
  • jlindhjlindh Member Posts: 282
    Please explain how a manual transmission car can pick up 200 RPM's and maintain the same speed in a given gear.
  • sonata4lifesonata4life Member Posts: 20
    >> I will guarentee you that MY '09 does not "clunk".

    Same with my '08 V6 Limited. Haven't heard any "clunk" or "thunk" (or whatever you want to call it) so far even though I drive through at least four speed bumps a day :) Though the car has only around 3000 miles, its very early to break a champagne on this issue!
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Please explain how a manual transmission car can pick up 200 RPM's and maintain the same speed in a given gear.

    It's pretty complicated. You push on the gas a little bit or let the cruise give it a little gas to maintain speed. :)
  • jlindhjlindh Member Posts: 282
    Obviously too complicated for me. Where do you think the slippage is coming from, the clutch?
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    I guess I'm confused. Wasn't he going upgrade and the cruise simply applied more gas to maintain speed? If you had a manual with the cruise on going upgrade, the computer would apply a little more gas to maintain speed which would raise rpms a little.

    What slippage are you referring to?
  • jlindhjlindh Member Posts: 282
    In a manual transmission car, the connection between the engine and rear wheels is a clutch, the transmission, the drive shaft, the differential, and the rear axle. The transmission and differential have metal gears, any change on the rotation speed of the incoming shaft will result in a corresponding change in the rotational speed of the output shaft. The drive shaft and the rear axles likewise have to be turning the same speed at both ends. Therefore, in a manual transmission car, unless the clutch is slipping, if the engine speed increases, the rear wheels will increase in rotational speed by a corresponding amount in a given gear. You simply cannot speed up the engine without speeding up the rear wheels and increasing speed as the connection between the two is essentially one piece.

    In the case of an incline, a little added throttle will increase the manifold pressure to the engine and the engine power will increase. If the added throttle is just the right amount, the car will maintain the same speed and the engine will maintain the same RPM's even though the engine is putting out some additional power.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Thanks for the explanation. I guess I was remembering that on a grade the engine will start to bog down a little and just as the car slows a mph or two the cruise kicks up the gas a little to compensate. The rpms seem to momentarily jump up some and that's what I thought he was referring to.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I think what happened in this case is that the transmission down-shifted. Happens all the time on my MPV with 5AT on hills, if they are steep enough. The tranny downshifts to maintain speed, and that causes the RPMs to increase.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    That was my first thought too but it seems that dropping down to third gear would be pretty noticeable and also result in a higher rpm gain than 200. But I guess all engines/trans combos are different to some degree.
  • bksssbksss Member Posts: 21
    I assure you that there was no downshifting, if there was I would have noticed it and the engine rpm would have gone way up. I have driven a standard transmission equipped car up the same hill with a good cruise control engaged. The car lost just a wee bit of speed and a corresponding reduction in engine rpm. Are you all sure that this car has a torque converter lock up? If it does my car has a faulty torque converter along with its annoying front right wheel thunk.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If it does my car has a faulty torque converter along with its annoying front right wheel thunk.

    I think that's a pretty big leap to make based on what you've observed. Is it possible the car dropped out of lock-up (hence the small increase in RPM) and it was designed to do that? Here is something I found on a forum that seems to fit this situation (bolded text is my highlighting):

    Example: Driving at 70mph on the freeway at 2000 rpm's with the cruise set, you come to a slight incline. The cruise put's more throttle down & you will feel a half shift sort-of-speak (T-C unlock) before dropping to 5th, thus gaining you about 300 r's on the tach putting you at about 2300. If it's a good incline, it will then drop to 5th T-C unlocked and the computer will feel that 5th will do the trick on the hill & will then unlock pulling the rest of the hill in 5th T-C unlocked until it senses deceleration & will then shift back to 6th.

    Note: this was regarding the Toyota Tundra.

    http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/134285-when-does-torque-converter-l- - ock-up/
  • bksssbksss Member Posts: 21
    Is it possible the car dropped out of lock-up

    Thanks ……… that makes sense. My old GMC ½ ton’s torque converter must warm up before lock up occurs. A 200 to 300 change in rpm occurs on the old truck. I have not noticed any torque converter clunk (in the Sonata) when increasing speed past the 30 mph range. I will pay more attention during my next trip up the hill previously mentioned. I should be making a trip up it this weekend.
  • auld_dawgauld_dawg Member Posts: 40
    My SHO also needs to warm up before lockup is possible, but that's more like 500 rpm in that car. Also, even when locked up, the lockup can release without downshifting when going up an incline if one's speed is 45mph or less......

    I tried the same thing with the V6 GLS I have, and it to would unlock going up an incline if the speed was relatively low {in this case, 35mph}. It picked up 200 rpm. Give it a little gas, it'll downshift at this point.......

    I think the unlock could very well be a normal feature. I know I'm not overly concerned about mine.
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    Today I went to a shop I've been dealing with for 30yeras for tires brakes suspension etc. I told the guy about the "thunk" problem he proceeded togotothe computer and pulled up a site called ALLDATA which is only available tomechanics etc. he pulled up the information I gave and and printed it out for me."SYMPTOM/CONDITATION: "A snap noise caused by surface contact between the front hub and driveshaft may be heard when some SONATA(NF) or AZERA (IC) vehicles are driven forwartd after being driven in reverse"Part name Washer part number 49599-3L000 and goes on to tell them how to fix it. I once again called my contact at corporate and gave her the information (which BTW) she has been working on) and said I should be hearing from HYUNDAI BY NEXT WEEK AND IF NOT TO CALL HER BACK ON TUESDAT. Ya think maybe we're getting somewhere on this problem. I will keep all informed as to the action to be taken.
  • 2002slt2002slt Member Posts: 228
    "he proceeded togotothe computer and pulled up a site called ALLDATA which is only available tomechanics etc."

    By "etc", did you mean everyone willing to pay? :)

    That site is not exactlly exclusive.
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    Good luck. Just a reminder that the thunking (clunking) condition demonstrated on the road and in the shop (with a special suspension actuator which mimicked road bumps) in my car and in several others has nothing to do with "being driven forward after being driven in reverse." It has to do with the sudden extension of the suspension components (especially if extension precedes compression) such as when driven over road bumps of any size over a half inch or so (indentations of the road surface of any abrupt kind - like driving off one concrete slab onto the next where the next one has settled a half inch, or just a washboard road surface or a series of filled pot holes) . Also a reminder that the problem was not fixed with a strut replacement alone, but was largely fixed in my car by the replacement of the front strut assemblies including upper mounts. See earlier posts for a part list. I'm guessing that if you present this information to Hyundai and ask them if they are willing to replace the parts they will. They did it for me "as a good will gesture." In other words: denial of responsibility, but we'll do it for you to shut you up. Well, it worked. The thunking largely went away after having steadily gotten worse from birth to 14K miles.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    This does not sound like the same problem that this thread is about. Sounds more like a powertrain versus suspension issue.
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    I hate to tell you people that what your are hearing HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STRUTS.Now let me en lighten allyou skeptics out there> If you go to "Alldata online 2006 Hyundai Sonata v6- 3,3L drivetrain- froint axle snapping noise.
    You will see "Group: CHASSIS NUMBER 06-50-009 DATE AUGUST 2006 MODEL Model SONATA, AZERA SUBJECT FRONT HUB AND DRIVESHAFT ISOLATION WASHER INSTALLATION PROCEDURE. THERE IS FOUR OR FIVE PAGES OF WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO DO IT.tHE PROBLEM IS WITH A WASHER THAT APPARENTLY GOES BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE AND VERY EXPLICITLY DETAILS PARTS NUMBERS ETC
    Afeter tremomdous of research I finally got to a person at Hyundai Regional where I sent the print out, and was told to take it to a dealer near my home as I would not go to the dealer in my home town for various reason which I have outlined here before. Regional called the dealer and went over the the problem with them very throughly. Two days later they called me and told me to come and get my car, GUESS WHAT FOLKS?????? NOT A DAMN SOUND AT ALL THE FIX WORKED AND WORKED WELL. Now if you want to continue to think you have a strut problem let me jsut say this "BullCrap it is the transaxle and the washer which is too thin to begin with and therein lies the problem. Now I know a lot of you are going to jump my [non-permissible content removed] on this but the fact remains I NO LONGER HAVE A PROBLEM, ANDYES YOU CAN THANK ME FOR ALL THE RESEACH AND ALL THE PEOPLE I SPOKE TO AT CORPORATE AND REGIONAL. I put in an awful amount of tiome and effort onthis but it has paid off. My father would have said " A word to the wise is sufficient !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    So, just to clarify, are you saying that the bulletin describes the noise scenario (as you previously posted) as a noise that occurrs when going forward after going in reverse as opposed to when going over bumps as previously described thus far in this forum? Is this what you were experiencing in your car? Or were you experiencing the clunking on multiple bumps when driving continuously forward?
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    Let me put it this way I have heard some minor noises from struts that never were an issue but the clunking in the front end was enough to drive you nuts, that problem sems to have been resolved by the replacemnt of the washer between the tranaxle.. I ONCE in a while hear a very small click, but it does't last and it is nowhere what the noise I was hearing is even close to. Needless to say I am now satisfied and I THANK God that Jeri Wright from Regional had the balls to tackle the problem
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    That is great that your noise has stopped. My question was about the conditions that produced the noise in order to try to determine whether we are experiencing the same noise or a different one. Big bumps, or little bumps; suspension extension or compression; washboard or isolated single bump or all. The subject heading says "Rice crispies" which sounds like high pitched rapidly reoccurring noises as opposed to a low pitched "thunking/clunking" that travels through the body of the vehicle. Please clarify so we can determine if we are talking about the same or different problems.
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    First of all let me say I have neverhad an issue with the "So called" strut problem.
    My problem seemed to come from the front axle and popped or whatever you want to call it, at different times under different conditions. Turning, backing up, going into or out of a drive way, going over a bumpy road, and such. Luckily I went to a brake guy to have Hi performance pads installed on my car and as he backed it up to put into his stall he heard what I had described, whereupon he went directly to the shops computer and found in five minutes the bulliten that apparently Hyundai had put onto this web site, and as they say "the rest is History" Problem solved !!!!!
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    First of all let me say I have neverhad an issue with the "So called" strut problem

    Everyone on this thread has replied very respectfully to your tirades and you continue to come back with statements like the above which basically indicate they are either liars or crazy. Has it ever occurred to you that your noise and the ones they describe are NOT the same noises? And has it ever occurred to you that just because you don't have a strut problem that there could be a number of other people that do?
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    Thank you for clarifying. It seems clear that your problem is quite different from that of the subject of this forum. But I'm sure it helped someone with that type of problem.

    For those of you who are ready to jump down this guys throat for his writing style, level of judgment and descriptive ability please consider that it will only lead to unhelpful posts and venting. Let's all just have some grace and move on.

    Just for the record: my thunking problem, after having been 80% corrected by the strut and strut mount replacement is beginning to come back. The highway department has gone on a paving spree around my area so many of the bumpy spots have gone away. But one area with a bunch of patched holes remains which I drive over every day and the clunking is beginning to be heard again - slightly. It is likely going to take a while to return to the annoying level.

    Any updates from the guy in Canada whose i.d. I forgot?
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    What you refer to as "TRIADES" is your choice of words and if it makes you feel better to use those terms then have at it. All I was trying to do was say that if you have a particular type of problem THEN DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. Which is exactly what I did. I did not complain to others about my problem, but rather I chose to contact corporate and then regional to get someone to acknowledge that there is a problem that needs to be addressed. I have found out through many years of dealing with things of this nature, that it does no good to sit and complain and do nothing about it. My thiniking is has and always will be "Go to the top to get something accomplished" If that type of thinking upsets you and you choose do not persue it, then don't complain, live with it. The people who gets things done are the very folks who choose to do something to rectify problems of this nature. Enough said, if you wish to continue to use me as a whipping boy, knock yourself out. All I can say is I did something with a lot of research and now my problem is finished. Again a word to the wise is sufficient.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Let's not make this personal, folks. We're all glad when someone who has a problem is able to get it solved and we're especially glad when the person shares with us how the solution came about.

    Beyond that, let's leave it be for now.

    Thanks.
  • lmaxicklmaxick Member Posts: 46
    I thinkyou hit right on the head. All I was trying to do was inform the people on this forum waht my personal experience was in resolving the problem with my car, I thought I was doing the right thing, Apparently some folks took exception to the way I said it. Thank you for your post and your insight.
  • macakavamacakava Member Posts: 775
    I did have the annoying click sound 4+ months ago like you did but only when engaging the tranny into reverse. The dealer quickly diagnosed and fixed it with the washer addition like you described. I believe that there was a TSB for it.

    That clicking sound is longer to be heard.
  • lenstanglenstang Member Posts: 68
    I HAVE A NEW 2009 SONATA GLS 4CYL. I HAVE NOTICED THAT IT MAKES A LOUDER NOISE THAN I'M ACCUSTOMED TO WHEN I GO OVER BUMPS. NOT JUST BIG BUMPS. I'M GOING TO BRING IT BACK TOTHE DEALER FOR A LOOK.
    ANYONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM?
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    Please read this forum from the beginning to get an idea of whether your noise matches the subject of this forum. There are many posts that describe a thunking/clunking condition that is traceable to the front upper strut mounts and there are posts that describe in detail what road condition circumstances produce this noise faithfully. You might have to weed through some unrelated posts that perhaps should have been posted elsewhere. From the related posts you can make a determination as to whether your noise could be the same and what to request the dealer replace - or to look to something else. So far I believe you are the first to report the problem in a 2009 on this forum - if we are talking about the same thing. If your problem is the same, replacing the upper strut mounts will solve the problem - but only temporarily if your condition matches mine, as after less than 3000 miles the noise in my 2007 is back to about 50% of its worst. Having said all that you should know that Hyundai's seem to transmit more suspension noise to the cabin than most any vehicle I've driven including even the ringing from tires hitting small pavement imperfections that sounds like they are pumped up to 100 psi when they are not. This only makes the transmission of noise generated by a defective part all the more noticeable to cabin occupants.
  • lenstanglenstang Member Posts: 68
    THIS CAR HAS LESS THAN 300 MILES ON IT.
    I'M VERY DISAPPOINTED. I THOUGHT I WAS GETTING A GOOD CAR.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    What does the noise sound like, and what are you accustomed to?

    P.S. Could you please turn off caps lock, it appears you are shouting (also all caps are harder to read).
  • lenstanglenstang Member Posts: 68
    I guess it's a clunking sound. Not all bumps. Not just big bumps. The noise going over bumps is louder than the 16 year old car it replaced.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    One fairly easy thing to do is take the car back to the dealer and have the service tech go for a drive with you so they can hear this "clunking" sound. If they say it's normal, then you can ask to drive another 2009 Sonata over the same course (again with the service tech) to see if it makes the same sound. If so, it probably is normal for the car--albeit different than on your last car (which, by the way, was what?). If not, then you've proven the sound is not normal for the Sonata and the dealer can work on it.
  • lenstanglenstang Member Posts: 68
    I'm going back to the dealer for my plates. I will get the car looked at and ask to drive another one. My last car was a 1992 Grand Prix. I also have a 2001 Toyota Sienna. Both are not as loud goning over bumps.
  • leahcimleahcim Member Posts: 10
    I also have a 2 month old 4cyl Sonato and it sounds like the car is bouncing off the "axles" when I go over any kind of irregular surfaces. Especially the rear of the car. In W. PA we have lots of patched pot holes and the noise is irritating and embarassing. I don't know if there is a mismatch between the struts and their respective springs, or whatever, but there is something wrong. I came to this Hyundai from a 2003 Accord and this car is the PITS. I swear I can roll over a dime and tell you if it's 'heads' or 'tails'. The service manager at my dealership says it's due to "stiff springs". I don't agree with him but don't know what to do.

    I also have radio problems. On the AM dial I get lots of static at the upper end (1300 and over) and lots of buzz/hum in some locations on strong stations like KDKA at 1020. I think there is something wrong with the antenna. Can't get anything done about this either.

    ANYBODY ELSE HAVE THESE SUSPENSION NOISES AND WAS ANYTHING DONE TO FIX THINGS????
  • lenstanglenstang Member Posts: 68
    I drove a friends 2007 and it made just about the same noise. I went back to the dealer. I drove around with one of their mechanics. The roads around the area are very good. I couldn't find many bumps to go over. He said he checked it out and found nothing wrong. I'm not happy about the noise. I can't believe that all these cars make this noise and everyone thinks it's ok. Please let me know if you find out what's wrong.
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    Please read posts from dncb777 from the beginning. I think all your questions will be answered.
  • dncbdncb Member Posts: 70
    Correction: my posts are labeled "by dncb" not dncb777.
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