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Comments
LOL Aren't you allowed in a dealer to test drive an '09?
I will guarentee you that MY '09 does not "clunk".
The thunking issue has been described and addressed in detail in past posts as well as diagnosis by ASE certified mechanics. Those who take a position that mechanical noises found objectionable to some should be permissible to others have no place here - especially if that view says that a car in a certain price range should be allowed to have defects. This is a forum to share information and possible solutions by responsible posters.
I can only ask that those who want to rant one way or the other - or spread disinformation please leave the forum for the sake of those who are plagued with a genuine problem with their car. I was one of those until the struts and upper mounts were replaced and have seen and heard what it turns into if left unaddressed.
Thank you for your cooperation.
Imaxic thanks for the description of the sound, however I have never heard a ball joint crunch either. I guess the bottom line is, unless Hyundai releases a TSB or recall for suspension related problems I'm not going to worry about. I can deal with noises in a mass produced $25,000 car. If it's a safety issue that's a different story, and thus far I have not heard of any suspension problems for the Sonata.
I think some folks have definitely had a problem with their cars. I took this particular thread into consideration when I was shopping, just like I took the VCM thread of the Honda into consideration........ so its definitely been valuable to me.
On the other hand, I now have a 2008 GLS V6, that doesn't have the "thunking" problem. I tested it before buying it. I thus owe you and others a debt of gratitude, for something to check before buying.....
On the other hand, I think its fair for folks to ask questions, if they do not know exactly what is being described.........
Compared to some threads around here, it's not really that long.
Here is some other researched info that may put your mind at ease. This car also has a locking torque convertor that is suppose to clunk when it locks up any where from 20 - 40 mph (normaly). Hope this helps. Brian
ps. I will take my chances of swerving out of the path of an 18 wheeler in my $27k Hyundai any day rather than realizing that my quiet $395,500 bently can't and having to brace for the impact. You forgot 2 add n the lux tax^
Its and Accord issue, "2008 Honda Accord VCM" or something like that on the Accord boards........
Link.......
golfrski, "2008 Honda Accord VCM" #1, 1 Nov 2007 7:42 pm
Read it all, interesting read.
It's not a torque converter lock up question. You would face the same issue with a manual transmission.
Same with my '08 V6 Limited. Haven't heard any "clunk" or "thunk" (or whatever you want to call it) so far even though I drive through at least four speed bumps a day Though the car has only around 3000 miles, its very early to break a champagne on this issue!
It's pretty complicated. You push on the gas a little bit or let the cruise give it a little gas to maintain speed.
What slippage are you referring to?
In the case of an incline, a little added throttle will increase the manifold pressure to the engine and the engine power will increase. If the added throttle is just the right amount, the car will maintain the same speed and the engine will maintain the same RPM's even though the engine is putting out some additional power.
I think that's a pretty big leap to make based on what you've observed. Is it possible the car dropped out of lock-up (hence the small increase in RPM) and it was designed to do that? Here is something I found on a forum that seems to fit this situation (bolded text is my highlighting):
Example: Driving at 70mph on the freeway at 2000 rpm's with the cruise set, you come to a slight incline. The cruise put's more throttle down & you will feel a half shift sort-of-speak (T-C unlock) before dropping to 5th, thus gaining you about 300 r's on the tach putting you at about 2300. If it's a good incline, it will then drop to 5th T-C unlocked and the computer will feel that 5th will do the trick on the hill & will then unlock pulling the rest of the hill in 5th T-C unlocked until it senses deceleration & will then shift back to 6th.
Note: this was regarding the Toyota Tundra.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/134285-when-does-torque-converter-l- - ock-up/
Thanks that makes sense. My old GMC ½ ton’s torque converter must warm up before lock up occurs. A 200 to 300 change in rpm occurs on the old truck. I have not noticed any torque converter clunk (in the Sonata) when increasing speed past the 30 mph range. I will pay more attention during my next trip up the hill previously mentioned. I should be making a trip up it this weekend.
I tried the same thing with the V6 GLS I have, and it to would unlock going up an incline if the speed was relatively low {in this case, 35mph}. It picked up 200 rpm. Give it a little gas, it'll downshift at this point.......
I think the unlock could very well be a normal feature. I know I'm not overly concerned about mine.
By "etc", did you mean everyone willing to pay?
That site is not exactlly exclusive.
You will see "Group: CHASSIS NUMBER 06-50-009 DATE AUGUST 2006 MODEL Model SONATA, AZERA SUBJECT FRONT HUB AND DRIVESHAFT ISOLATION WASHER INSTALLATION PROCEDURE. THERE IS FOUR OR FIVE PAGES OF WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO DO IT.tHE PROBLEM IS WITH A WASHER THAT APPARENTLY GOES BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE AND VERY EXPLICITLY DETAILS PARTS NUMBERS ETC
Afeter tremomdous of research I finally got to a person at Hyundai Regional where I sent the print out, and was told to take it to a dealer near my home as I would not go to the dealer in my home town for various reason which I have outlined here before. Regional called the dealer and went over the the problem with them very throughly. Two days later they called me and told me to come and get my car, GUESS WHAT FOLKS?????? NOT A DAMN SOUND AT ALL THE FIX WORKED AND WORKED WELL. Now if you want to continue to think you have a strut problem let me jsut say this "BullCrap it is the transaxle and the washer which is too thin to begin with and therein lies the problem. Now I know a lot of you are going to jump my [non-permissible content removed] on this but the fact remains I NO LONGER HAVE A PROBLEM, ANDYES YOU CAN THANK ME FOR ALL THE RESEACH AND ALL THE PEOPLE I SPOKE TO AT CORPORATE AND REGIONAL. I put in an awful amount of tiome and effort onthis but it has paid off. My father would have said " A word to the wise is sufficient !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My problem seemed to come from the front axle and popped or whatever you want to call it, at different times under different conditions. Turning, backing up, going into or out of a drive way, going over a bumpy road, and such. Luckily I went to a brake guy to have Hi performance pads installed on my car and as he backed it up to put into his stall he heard what I had described, whereupon he went directly to the shops computer and found in five minutes the bulliten that apparently Hyundai had put onto this web site, and as they say "the rest is History" Problem solved !!!!!
Everyone on this thread has replied very respectfully to your tirades and you continue to come back with statements like the above which basically indicate they are either liars or crazy. Has it ever occurred to you that your noise and the ones they describe are NOT the same noises? And has it ever occurred to you that just because you don't have a strut problem that there could be a number of other people that do?
For those of you who are ready to jump down this guys throat for his writing style, level of judgment and descriptive ability please consider that it will only lead to unhelpful posts and venting. Let's all just have some grace and move on.
Just for the record: my thunking problem, after having been 80% corrected by the strut and strut mount replacement is beginning to come back. The highway department has gone on a paving spree around my area so many of the bumpy spots have gone away. But one area with a bunch of patched holes remains which I drive over every day and the clunking is beginning to be heard again - slightly. It is likely going to take a while to return to the annoying level.
Any updates from the guy in Canada whose i.d. I forgot?
Beyond that, let's leave it be for now.
Thanks.
That clicking sound is longer to be heard.
ANYONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM?
I'M VERY DISAPPOINTED. I THOUGHT I WAS GETTING A GOOD CAR.
P.S. Could you please turn off caps lock, it appears you are shouting (also all caps are harder to read).
I also have radio problems. On the AM dial I get lots of static at the upper end (1300 and over) and lots of buzz/hum in some locations on strong stations like KDKA at 1020. I think there is something wrong with the antenna. Can't get anything done about this either.
ANYBODY ELSE HAVE THESE SUSPENSION NOISES AND WAS ANYTHING DONE TO FIX THINGS????