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Full disclosure: I don't like the Prius, don't own or work for (nor have I ever owned or worked for) Toyota/Scion/Lexus. That said, 110hp combined in a 2900lb car (not "nearly 4,000") isn't dangerous.
I've put four grown men (combined weight about 800 lbs) in my 1996 Accord many times on a 150 mile interstate trip. That car had a curb weight within 40 lbs on the Prius, a 4-speed auto instead of a quicker-accelerating CVT, and 130hp when new; it wasn't unsafe. I drove it 240k miles, mostly urban interstate commuting at 70-80mph daily.
The Prius ran 0-60 (highway speeds) in 10.5 seconds according to ConsumerGuide.com, quicker than other family vehicles like the Chevrolet Venture minivan of the same year, which ran it in approximately 11 seconds.
I don't own a Prius, but my father has the newest generation. We drove it to pick up one of his other cars (a 1939 Cadillac Limo). The stupid thing ( Cadillac) broke down just before an intersection at the Fairfax County Parkway (in N. VA). and was blocking traffic. I tied the floormats around his bumper with my kids shoelaces and pushed that 5,000 lb vehicle across all 8 lanes with absolutely no problem. Electric motors get all their torque at 0 rpm so it did not break a sweat. That is why trains have diesel - electric motors. I was absolutely sure his transmission would be ruined, but the Prius did not even hesitate or struggle in the least.
Why don't I own a Prius? I am a huge fan in many ways, plenty of room for 4 adults, nice ride, excellent fuel economy and bulletproof reliability. But, I "need" a manual transmission and I prefer a car that handles better.
And I also had a 225 slant 6 - in a 76 Volare wagon. Mine had a stick and manual steering - so it was way faster than the automatics, but still slow.
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Lots of people commuting in giant SUV's or 300+ hp "sports" cars. Huge waste of gas and the expensive vehicle will lose a lot in depreciation.
What mid size sedan do you have again?
These and other questions burn deep inside me..... :surprise:
PS: On the commuter car for commuting....I have a lot of respect for the guy driving a Prius to work, when he could be showing off in his 'vette. Very responsible, and practical. I was hoping my Optima would deliver a little of both, since I don't even have a garage....not to mention a Corvette. BTW, the new C7 Stingray is killer!!! Can't wait for the Z06 and ZR1 models.
Near Herndon/Reston.
Not sure the intersection exactly maybe near west ox - it has changed much since I lived there. I am in South Dakota now (No traffic, I live .5 miles from work)
I have an Accord (actually 2 an '07 and a '13)
Try some pepto for the burning.
Since I have a condo w/o a garage; I just looked into car covers. I am tired of the pollen, nuts purple berries, and birdsh** from this giant oak tree that hangs over my assigned spaces. $40 for a mid-size sedan triple layer, waterproof cover sounds good. (ebay-free shipping).
I found that out the hard way one year just after having a new windshield installed on my Pathfinder. I had a bit of moisture on the glass right where I was looking through, so used a napkin and found out later that I had scratched my brand new windshield as if I had done it with a diamond ring Found a splash drop of road sand (was winter time) had found its way to the..what I thought was a clean napkin, and that dirt drop splash was enough to do the dirty
Also found out just how soft some replacement windshield glass can be. They sure aren't all created equal, so if you end up negotiating that they pay your deductible, make sure it's for a decent quality piece of glass or you're better off just paying your deductible, but making sure you get the good stuff.
edit - I guess a portable shelter is outta the suburbia-diseased question, right?
Here they are: http://cski12894.imgur.com/all/ No grain of sand goes unpunished!
Pretty sure I'd have remembered that fine specimen, lol
Yes, you do keep quite the clean house..
It sure is purdy to be sure..
edit - is that a stock sound system? That has to sound pretty good, yet I have heard it's a weak point in the Optima..maybe on the stock/base car?
My BIL has used that on his last two Acura MDXs and it seems to work while not being all that noticeable.
www.lamin-x.com There is a 10% coupon code for lamin-x. It is: 10OFF
www.rvinyl.com
Sorry, just saw your edit with a question on the LX/EX stereo system. In short, the system lacks good bass response, at least to my ears. It has 6 speakers, but Kia chose to put the rear speakers in the doors, instead of the rear deck, which would use the entire trunk for bass response. So, to solve this I bought a sub-woofer instead of paying $2500 more for the luxury package which included the factory Infinity sub, (which IS mounted in the rear deck).
The Infinity Bass-link sub (shown here) http://i.imgur.com/eMBHg0B.jpg is a 10" powered unit, and takes up only 1 cubic foot of space. Price? Roughly $220. I bought mine on e-bay, and I had it installed at a local shop for $80. The controls (set and forget basically) are on the other side so they can be accessed by folding the seat down. There is a remote volume knob installed on the lower dash.
The stereo in my CRV is terrible. I think though that it is so bad, that to get the result I'm after I need to replace the head unit (they must {and usually do} use a very cheap amplifier as OEM base units, but is made worse because this one also has a cassette player as part of the 6 CD unit, so I am guessing even extra cheap amp components) and all the speakers..6 , four in the doors and two tweeters in the dash. They are all shyte. I have an aftermkt powerful amp and sub and Sony (I think) unit I got from my nephew but he lost the manuals and I have no idea (well some actually) idea of how to wire it all up. I'm pretty sure I could figure it out, but what I don't know is how to fine tune it so-to-speak in terms of best compatibilities and what best speakers to replace all the OEM ones. The modern aftmkt stuff (in past 5-6 years) is a lot more complicated than the really good systems of 15-20 years ago or so. Bridgeable amps etc etc. I was going to hire a guy to install, but have procrastinated because I really don't like this car, but can't afford to replace it. Plus I use it for contracting, and often need the actually cu footage that a sub would use up. But I guess I should bite the bullet and have this system installed and it would at least help me like the car a bit better. One of my issues with it is such loud road/wind noise that I think that is one reason the OEM stereo is so out of its element. And, while an aftermkt one has the power to help block it out, in reality terms it really doesn't...as it is all just cumulative or compounded noise.
Take a GREAT sounding sound system in a quiet living room and listen to it (quite) cranked...(the way I listen to a lot of my music). Now take that same sound system in the same living room and same db setting, but add in 20 people all partying trying to be heard over each other and the sound system and now everything is muddied.
My next vehicle will be known to be extra quiet I hope. And would love to have a great OEM stereo with no messing around after the fact to make it into one. I'm into a LOT of super clean power, so that bass etc can sound extra clean and tight at low or high volumes.
Of the mid-sized out there I hear the Dodge 200 has quite a good stock base car system (not confirmed but read it on an Edmunds forum). Perhaps its best quality? But of the mid-sizers, which new car has the best stock base (or one up from base but not top end), since often three levels of sound systems are offered? Years ago Honda (early 90's or so?) along with Toyota Camry but NOT Corolla, had pretty good base systems. But at least in 05 Honda sure has dropped the ball. Any old/new GM probably has a system that sounds easily twice as good.
Couple weeks ago spent some time in a friends new ML350. Not THAT thing had some freakin' great sound. Unfortunately though he was not into very loud music and another friend had brought along a Wayne Hancock "That's What Daddy Wants", that was absolutely begging to be cranked in the ML..
Many websites show pics of non-US models and call it the next years model, but it is really only alternate styling used in other markets.
The pics are clearly not of a US-spec Sonata.
The 1.5 is also supposed to be smoother and quieter than the 1.6.
Besides that, the SE option packages are changed. You will finally be able to buy a Fusion with Smart entry and push button start without having to choose the Titanium model.
I was not considering the 2013 because I wanted push button start but was not willing to pay for a Titanium and didn't want the over-sized, expensive, harsh-riding, low profile tires that are mandatory on the Titanium anyway.
Because of these changes for 2014, I will finally test drive a Fusion and see if the front seat headrests are as uncomfortable and annoying as some people say.
No reason to waste time test driving if it didn't meet my criteria at the time.
http://www.forbes.com/sites/matthewdepaula/2013/04/30/test-drive-2013-ford-fusio- - n-impresses-in-every-way-but-one/
http://www.edmunds.com/ford/fusion/2013/consumer-reviews/disappointed-overall.ht- ml?style=200421095&sub=&reviewId=358564146
The wheels are optional.
No need to bash something because it doesn't meet your particular criteria.
Personally, push button start/remote entry is ok, but a security risk.
I'd be ok with a Titanium with less power.
Although I didn't go to either one of the links you posted, I see one is from Forbes.
Do you get your financial advice from Edmunds? :P
There was no "bashing." I gave the reasons why I don't want large, low profile tires.
For 2014, it looks like there may be a possibility of configuring it in an acceptable way (assuming the smart entry isn't bundled in a package that adds 18 wheels) and assuming that the headrests and not a problem for me.
I am with you on the smaller diameter rims with a taller sidewall to absorb bumps and potholes, if any. I do not like the way a nicer car is always mated to larger rims and lower profile tires. It should be a choice, and not a mandate with an upscale package. To each his own.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I also agree on the too-close-to-the-head headrests. It may not be an issue for those who sit with their seat back reclined even a little past slight, but for those with lower back issues, for example, who have to have the seat back relatively upright, these new type so-called safety oriented head restraints, suck worse than big wheels. Glad to hear others voice their opinion.
Tall drivers who sit with the seat back well reclined and who can't relate, need not respond, cuz you'll be talkin' to the hand.
We have all seen them. Like cars with tiny brakes and giant; see through flat black rims look terrible, no matter what make and model. Here is a particularly bad lapse in good sense:
http://i.imgur.com/MCiiwDk.jpg
Multiple reviews mention worse ride with the larger wheels on this car and others. There is no way the thin low profile 40-45 series tires of any brand can be comparable to the best riding "normal" tires. Maybe they are not "that bad," riding on a Fusion but I want the best ride and least road noise in this type of car, so 18-19" tires are not for me. It would be different if I was getting a sports car or was buying a car just for looks.
The 17 inch tires on the Fusion SE are already lower profile that the average tire was a few years back. I'd actually prefer the 16 inch 60 series tires on the Fusion S, but that trim level is too stripped of available options.
It's not even just the ride deterioration and added road noise. They cost much more to replace. The tread life is low so you are back to the tire shop getting them replaced more often and spending more money per tire. There is usually a fuel economy hit associated with bigger rims and lower profile tires.
We have a 2004 Escape, original tires were 16 inch and were good for about 35k of noisy miles. Our 2009 Escape has 17 inch lower profile tires and they are going to be good for at least 80k and are much quieter.
I had a 2007 Fusion with 17 inch Michelin tires, they didn't ride better than the 19 inch on my 2013.
The tires on my 2007 Fusion were rated as Low Rolling Resistance. Looking at the tire width, it was a result of it having more space across the tread bands than some narrower tires.
Tires will not completely make up for and older car not riding as well as a newer model.
One the same vehicle, better riding, less expensive, longer lasting tires will be available in the higher profile, smaller tires.
I am not cross-shopping 2004 vs 2009 or 2007 vs 2013 cars.
Stock head units incorporate lots of useful functions, such as Bluetooth, USB and line in (i-pod/mp-3 player support) plus Satellite radio, digital FM, and most importantly, steering wheel controls. If you want to upgrade your recent-model-year stereo, the new unit has it's work cut out for it. Also, keep in mind that aftermarket stereo's are a huge target for theft. If a thief see's a stock head unit, he will move on.
So, adding a powered sub allows you to keep your car stock looking, while enjoying a powerful and responsive system. You can also replace the crappy paper speakers in all the doors, but honestly I don't even recommend that until you have already added the sub and still are left wanting.
The Infinity sub in my car is NOT the same as the factory unit, but I like the thought of having a sub from an OEM supplier at least, and it only takes up 1 cubic foot.
The sub and amp your nephew gave you is a great way to get started. You will be able to download the instructions for it online, but even if not...generic sub-woofer instructions will do. I have a bad back, so crawling into my trunk was not an option, so I paid for a pro installation. ($80)
PS: Lots of Honda's used to have standard single DIN stereo slots, which makes upgrading a cinch. If any of you are considering it and have odd sized OEM stereo's, buy from Crutchfield's online catalog. They include all wiring harness and mounting kit's for free with purchase. Sony is a good quality and affordable brand name that I trust. IMO/FYI
http://www.crutchfield.com/
Lastly, here is an example of the great deals on gear. There are HUGE discounts due to the aforementioned diminishing market on car audio.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XDPPK1K/Sony-XDP-PK1000-Digital-Link-Sound-Syste- m.html
Here are the pictures again for all to review: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/146394-first-pictures-2014-- sonata-facelift.html
The cars are tweaked for the tastes in different regions of the world.
There are sometimes differences between US and Canadian models of the same car much less US vs Korean market cars.
Many parts are either the same or interchangeable between years.
Tires and wheels can be swapped between any of those years.
Tire expense per set will probably be less with a smaller tire, but they may be lower quality and not last as long.
On the other hand a smaller high quality tire may cost more the a larger lower quality tire.
My point is it's not cut and dry, there are several variables.
Pretty much everyone knows this.
To compare cheap larger tires to expensive smaller tires for a price comparison is silly. Using same brand and quality the larger tires will nearly always cost more and the short sidewalls always ride tighter. They might not ride bad but they will ride a little different and sometimes the extra handling will outweigh the tauter ride in the dirver's eye. But the fact that a short sidewall will take less of a beating. It's just physics.
IMO 17" are plenty big and they should just design the wheelwells to look good with 17". If someone wants larger the manufacturers should have them as an option and not mandatory if you want a few other options. I spent $900 on Micheliens at Costco for 17" tires. I hate to think what the 18"s on my new car are going to cost me. Probably $1100 or $1200.
Just the sub and the amp are worth $200. Then you get the DSP processor, a bump in power for all of your existing speakers, and then you can use your phone hands free through the system, AND your steering wheel controls will still work. Plus, you would have a dock for your phone so you can select mp-3's from I-tunes or Google play or just from your files.
Keeping your CRV's dash stock is the smart way to go. You can velcro the sub-woofer in the back, and if it is in the way, just unhook two wires and remove it.
The 2nd set were Michelin's, which I was completely happy with, until it came time to replace them. Sidewalls started cracking after 6 years, but I got my 65k out of them, so they worked as advertised. They went from $640 to $850 for a set of 4, so I did some homework.
Ended up buying a set of General Grabbers for $500 out the door.
They are equal or better than the Michelin's, other than in cold weather they are a bit stiffer and I haven't gotten the 65k they are supposed to be good for, yet. That remains to be seen.
I'll go through the same thing when I have to replace the tires on my Fusion.
There will be another $70 rebate on Michelins in the fall I'm guessing. I still think they are worth the money for the quality of the tire--they stay round and roll round. I'm expecting to buy another set before winter; just bought a set for the Cobalt.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
They are still very quiet and the best mileage over back to back tanks were on these tires at 120k vehicle miles. Now at 135k.
My Fusion is almost 3 months old and has yet to hit 2k.
I'm looking forward to our summer/fall driving season.
Tire expense per set will probably be less with a smaller tire, but they may be lower quality and not last as long.
There is no reason I would be buying low quality 17 inch tires.
In general the lower profile tires of comparable quality have much lower tread life.
If you look up tread life warranties, you will will not find very low profile tires with very long warranties. While you could possibly buy super cheap 16" tires that will not last if you wanted to, it not that difficult to find 50-80K mile rated standard tires 16-17" tires. If you look up 18 and 19" low profile tires, you will not find tires where the manufacturer has a very long tread life warranty.
Even if such a tire existed, I don't want overpriced, rougher riding, noisier tires on a family sedan.
There is not that much extra rubber and other materials in 18-19" tires to justify the cost difference. They charge so much more partly because they are lower volume tires and the rest of the high price is because the people who love the look of low profile tires are willing to pay the premium. I am not.
There is a new, 2 car only; mid size sedan comparo in the June issue, which I just pried out of my mailman's hands. This is a best-of-the-best shootout of the top 2 players in the industry in a winner-take-all contest to prove once and for all which is the best mid size sedan on the market. Period.
The long and short of it is that the Mazda won. It wowed the C/D staff with it's driving dynamics, stiff structure, quick acceleration (7.0 secs to 60 vs Accord's 7.4) and spiffy interior.
Specifically, they loved the Mazda's seats and style beyond it's price tag, and the handling sealed the deal. FYI! -Chris
Their rankings would be more meaningful if they were testing WRX vs EVO or Camaro vs Mustang.
You need to complain to the USPS. My mail carrier delivered the June C/D issue to me almost a month ago! :surprise: I think I mentioned the 0-60 results many posts ago.
Plus the Mazda was quicker, had better handling, better seats, and IMO much better styling inside and out. Plus the economical Skyactiv powertrain.
What's not to like?