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and isolate the problem. It seems to be in the wires, but we cant find a short. the car still ran before we tore it apart...although rather poorly....and on three cylinders....
any ideas?
-mike
-mike
I am new to the forum and am looking at a 96 Outback with 142k on it. I plan on replacing the timing belt and head gasket (If it already hasn't been done). Anyone out there info on doing this? Maybe an online repair manual? I have replaced timing belts and head gaskets on my other vehicles but have never owned a subaru. Any other things to look for when test driving. Thanks in advance for all your help. Don
2 Remove pulley bolt. To lock crankshaft, use ST. ST 499977000 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WRENCH
3 Remove crankshaft pulley
4 Remove left-hand belt cover
5 Remove right-hand belt cover
6 Remove front belt cover
step 2 timing belt
1 If alignment mark and/or arrow mark (which indicates rotation direction) on timing belt fade away, put new marks before removing timing belt as follows:::::Turn crankshaft using ST, and align alignment marks on crankshaft sprocket, left-hand intake camshaft sprocket, left-hand exhaust camshaft sprocket, right-hand intake camshaft sprocket and right hand exhaust camshaft sprocket with notches of belt cover and cylinder block. ST 499987500 CRANKSHAFT SOCKET
2 Using white paint put alignment and/or arrow marks on timing belts in relation to the sprockets
3 Loosen tensioner adjuster mounting bolts
4 Remove belt idler
5 Remove timing belt
CAUTION: After timing belt has been removed, never rotate intake and exhaust, camshaft sprocket.
If camshaft sprocket is rotated, the intake and exhaust valve heads strike together and valve stems are bent.">
"We plugged everything in and decided to see if it would fire up. When we reconnected the battery we noticed that the parking lights as well as the dash lights were blinking, 30 times, pause, 30 times... and so on with or without the key in the ignition. The engine did turn over but it would not fire so we decided to check for spark and fuel. We discovered that the car is not getting any fuel and there is no spark either. Thinking maybe the computer needs to be reset?"
I have a '96 outback in the garage that got left over the winter and now I need to get it moved out to sell. I was running the car once a week or so but we hit a patch of bad weather and I wasn't able to drive it for several weeks. The next time I went to run the car it needed a jump. No problem. After that I started disconnecting the battery between runs. The next time I went to start up it worked fine. But the next time after that I started getting the blinking lights problem exactly as described by simplecj. The first time this happened I was able to jump and run the car but the battery died while sitting in the drive for an hour or so (due to the constant flashing even with key removed from the ignition). I jumped again and ran it and disconnected the battery as before. But the last time I tried to jump (connected to a '02 outback with engine idling) it would crank for less than 1 sec but never started. I let the running car charge the dead battery for 15-20mins but could not jump.
So, how do I get this car back to a running condition? Does it just need more cranking power? Should I put a charger on the battery? Or replace the battery? Or is the computer in such a state that it simply will not let the engine run without devine intervention?
And what procedure will stop the lights from flashing all the time?
-mike
If you are in a position to be buying a new or newo to you car, then you may want to look that route. Fixing the trans however is not a suggestion I'd make as it can get very costly.
-mike
Regards,
Kerry
Its safe to drive it for now, basically I'd check the fluid level in the AT, and maybe add in some Lucas AT conditioner fluid. That will help it last longer. It will not most likely catastrophically fail on you, the slipping will become more frequent until it finally dies on yah. Although after filling the trans and putting in the lucas you might want to trade it in on a new car before it dies completely.
-mike
Kerry
thanks
I told you what needs to be done to fix it. The ECU needs to be re-flashed at the dealer. I mis-flashed mine and it had the same effect, once I re-flashed it, it was fine.
If your dealer won't do it, find one that will. If you want, e-mail me directly [email protected] and perhaps we can work on this together to get it resolved.
-mike
PS: My best buddy has an 05 Frontier and he loves it. 75k miles on it.
1) Lost drive to rear wheels.Same thing happened about 100,000 miles ago when the output adapter in the rear transmission extension case failed where it is welded onto a machined gear.(How does Subaru get this item to stay together in their rally cars?) .Replaced adaptor - all OK. Suspect same failure again as FWD and RWD have always fought in low speed turns, forwards and backwards. Symptom is shuddering/vibration felt in car. "They all do that, sir" is the response from most dealers. Never driven the car off road but it has excelled in many Winter seasons of snow and ice in S.E PA.
2) Now, soon after loss of rear drive, there is no movement at all when R is selected. Fluid is clean and up to the mark; no warning lights and no stored fault codes in the TCU. Transmission behaves normally in any/all forward selections - bit of a thump going up into 2nd gear when fluid is cold.
Engine is great after almost one quarter million miles. Leaks more oil from rear crank seal and front camshaft seals than it burns, which is not much.
I am not sure about the lack of reverse; is there any indication at all, when you shift, that something is happening within the transmission?
did they say it cause the failure?? it has to be some good explanation!
did they fix it for free? I would be contacting corporate on this!
But seriously, have you run a diagnostics check on the car? It might be something other than simply the transmission oil temperature. Those dummy lights don't tell you much, only that you need to hook the car to a code reader. The fact that this particular light is flashing means the error code is triggering in the transmission control unit (rather than the engine control unit).
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
- Driving along and ocassionally when I put my foot on the gas the car doesn't speed up it just revs just from 2000-6000 while the car stays at the same speed
Not sure what this mean driving back from T.O and going the normal 110 -120 and the car starts to heat up so I check the coolant and the car drank it all so I put more coolant in and wait an hour before driving anymore double check the coolant it was good so I continues on home , but then the car started to heat up again so I slowed down to 80 and the temputure went back to normal ?? I'm lost to why its ok at 80 but not 100
Any help would be great Forgot to mention that a day after the car had heat issues the Check engine light came on and then went off again :sick:
You are cruising at 110-120 in a 1998 outback? Wow, that's pretty good.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Thank again
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
He drove the car - and then he "performed re-flash for engine control module (ECM) for too high rpm when clutch is depressed." and -- she runs perfectly now. You were RIGHT ON!
Carol
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Nice call, mike. :shades:
I was so excited to tell you that my car was fixed that I forgot one very important thing... THANK YOU !! THANK YOU!! ... We have told everyone about this (Edmunds) and advised them if they need help, here is the place to find it.
Again, many thanks.
~Carol
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
They just called and said it was probably the synchronizer and that to fix it the labor would be $1017.00. They couldn't say what the parts cost would be until they opened it up. We just had a new clutch installed last month--at a different shop. AAMCO told us that the flywheel should have been retooled when the clutch was done, but wasn't. AAMCO said they could do it for us while they had the car.
Does their diagnosis of the grinding sound reasonable, and is the $1017 for labor sound reasonable. Could it be something else? We just had a new baby last week and this expense is the last thing we needed! We're going to have to borrow the money from my parents.
Thank you--Lori