Subaru Legacy/Outback Transmission Problems

britbiker · November 2008

Sorry to hear about your manual transmission problem. I am not a Subaru technician and my Subarus both have autoboxes. But I have had a lifetime of doing all of my own auto repairs, including major rebuilds of engines and manual transmissions. I would be personally wary of paying $1000 to have new synchronizer rings for 2nd gear installed in a trans. that has already covered 150,000 miles. Two main reasons: (1) what else is about to fail or is worn? Is the dealer doing the work going to give you a 12 months unlimited mileage warranty when the repair is completed? I doubt it. (2) Emergent work when the 150,000 mile transmission is stripped for repair eg "The gizmo bearing is worn and needs replacing and if we change that then the cordwangler shaft ought to be changed as well...." Next thing you know there is an invoice for an amount that would have got you another transmission.
I would search on line for a rebuilt transmission or a low mileage used unit and have it installed by a competent repair shop - does not have to be a franchised dealer. Be very wary of buying on e-bay; while there are reputable sellers who care about buyer feedback there are some real sharks out there as well. Caveat emptor!
If you find a used/rebuilt trans and are not sure about price etc then come back to this forum. There is a whole lot of real world experience in these pages(which has helped me a lot with head gaskets and 2.5L 4 cam engines...but that is another story)

VladKA · December 2008

I have a 2001 6-cyl LL Bean outback and the awd doesn't seem to work. I owned the car since 2002 7 years already. It got 75k miles on it. I started realizing the problems last year, the front wheels would start slipping, but after a second it would engage in 4WD with this jerking. I know this car very well, and i know this is not a typical Subaru operation. We just had a snowfall, and the car doesn't engage in AWD at all, only FWD now. On dry pavement it's not that noticeable, but on wet or slick roads its seems like its a FWD car. Nobody put the fuse to make FWD, and there aren't any lights flashing. I did once jack the front end of my car, and put the car in D and the front wheels were the only ones spinning, and thats when AT TEMP light was flashing, other than that nothing lights up or flashes at all. What could it be? My friend brought a SUBARU scanner, we checked the diagnostic and had no codes, Duty ratio was at 52% and AWD switch was off. Any IDEAS what could it be?

Abacynt · December 2008

Hi, my '98 Legacy Wagon has been occasionally revving after shifting up or while driving in gear I think when I'm trying to accelerate, and no power is getting to the wheels. It fixes itself, downshifting doesn't help. It had been revving more than usual while idling before this started as well. Just trying to see if there is an obvious answer to this so I know what I'm getting myself into

Thanks!

paisan · December 2008

VladKA,

The flashing AT Temp light is an indication of a problem with the AT. There is a special scanner at Subaru dealers that they can read the TCU codes (as opposed to the OBDII scanner with reads the ECU codes). My guess is that it's an intenal issue on the trans. Could be something simple or not so simple.

-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor

paisan · December 2008

Abacynt,

Sounds like your torque converter is slipping. I'm assumint this is an automatic. If it's a manual, it could be your clutch.

-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor

ogvideo · February 2009

Hope someone can tell me how to fix this problem, as I am low on funds for repairs. I bought this 1992 Legacy wagon from a co-worker at the US Postal Service. She used the car to deliver mail and she swears by it in all kinds of weather. She Had two Subaru Legacy Wagons which she used for work and one of my co-workers and I each bought a subaru from her, and his was fine in the snow, but my 1992 only spins the front wheels in the snow and ice. I think the Subaru is supposed to go into all wheel drive automatically or it is in AWD all the time, so there is definitely something wrong with my car. She swears it was her best car in the snow last year, and I beleive her, but now it sucks in the snow. I tried looking around in the engine compartment for anything out of the ordinary and found a fuse holder near the fire-wall that reads FWD and there was no fuse in it. I replaced the fuse and a light in the dash went on that sais "FWD", but the car is still not turning the rear wheels. Also, there is a button on the dash that reads "height" and it is flashing most of the time. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!! send any advice you can give to ogvideo@yahoo.com thanks.

VladKA · February 2009

I had same thing on my 2001 Outback 6 cyl. The AWD didnt' engage properly, at times not at all. On dry pavements it wasn't noticeable, but when snow came around, the car was horrible because it was Fwd instead of all 4. Had no lights on, no Transmission codes on, nothing at all. Well i did the research and made a guess about faulty solenoid, then decided to change Transfer Duty solenoid. My guess was right. Turns out it went bad. Newer subarus have different transmissions from old ones, but very similar. I believe your solenoid is called duty C solenoid. But i might be wrong. Was about half day of work, and 100 bucks worth of stuff. The car now is a beast.

VladKA · February 2009

mike

my friend had a Genuine Subaru scanner, the fault code was something with front speed sensor circuit. The reason it had this fault when frond end lifted is because the front had speed on wheels, and the back was still. Thus making the computed confused. Anyways did some research, found some time, and changed the Transfer Duty Solenoid. Was a very simple procedure. The car runs like a beast now.

ateixeira · February 2009

You do not want to insert a fuse, that puts it in FWD mode specifically. That's for when you get a flat tire and want to turn it off temporarily.

It should engage automatically when the fuse is removed, though, yes.

rgrandam1 · March 2009

Hello I have no reverse I have all forwad gears ok reverse not engageing. Ichanged fluid and filter. The owner just realized that the reverse took longer to engage for a while then when I moved it to change fluid the reverse was not there. Please can anyone tell me what could ti be Thanks

kingpin300900 · March 2009

kingpin300900 · March 2009

Hey I've got a 97 legacy that i somehow activated the shift lock in today. I followed the manual and got it out by pressing the release button below the shifter with a screw driver. The problem i got now is everytime i put it in park, I have to press the release button again to put it in drive. Also the brake lights don't come on and the cruise control don't work. Does anyone know how to fix this so i don't have to go pay and get it fixed? thanks

missbossy · March 2009

I have a 2003 Subaru Outback with 60K miles. Last January I had to replace the clutch and brakes. This last summer I had to replace the catalytic converter. Now as I am driving along in 5th gear or sometimes when I first shift into 3rd or 4th the RPMs suddenly rev from 3K to 5K until I shift down or decelerate. I'm taking it in tomorrow but I don't really trust the dealership. Any ideas on what could be wrong? I'm really disappointed with all the repairs especially since I need to drive it for a long time to come! Thanks.

ateixeira · April 2009

Sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.

000utback · April 2009

Hello this is my first post in hopes to find the issue with my 2000 Outback AWD (Automatic Transmission)
Starts fine, runs great for a car with 190,000 miles. After about 15 miles I came to a stop light and upon trying to go on green , the engine revved and then the transmission kicked in, jerking the car. Sometimes the car runs fine, once going up an incline the engine just revved and I had to kick it up to around 4-5000 rpm for tranny to kick in. Fluid level is full and looks normal red color. Underpan I see where some fluid may be leaking on the rear of the pan. One thing I found that works is when coming to a stop, I downshift to [ 1 ]st gear, and then after getting adequate cruising speed , I shift up to [ D ]rive . Is this my transmission slipping, solenoid, torque convertor? Any help would be appreciated, Thank you.

sniskanen · April 2009

HI, This too is my first post. I have 99 forester that is sometimes slow to go into gear. It has about 160K miles, has had regular service, never was a tow vehicle. The fluid is a nice red color, level is ok. It seems that this is a common problem with late 90's Subarus. Is there an easy fix or am I at the mercy of the dealers and transmission shops??? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sam

5099lg · April 2009

I have a manual transmission 1999 AWD Outback with 72,000 miles in the shop right at this moment. The owner says he can't tell if the car has a transmission problem or if the problem is in the gearing (slip?) behind the transmission. The problem started with slight clunking on tight turns. Then one evening the car was incredibly hard to parallel park. The clutch went into reverse fine and the car lurched backward, but didn't actually move. After playing with it for a while I was able to move in reverse. I drove directly to the repair shop. While driving a LOUD (people turned to look!) clicking noise in direct relation to the speed happened whenever I was NOT actively pushing on the gas pedal. Any ideas whether I'm dealing with a transmission problem or not?
Or anything to look for shy of pulling the transmission or replacing the gearing and praying? Oh...and the clutch was replaced 2 months ago.. appears to work fine.

xwesx · April 2009

I suspect the problem is the center differential, which is a clutch pack located inside the transmission housing.

5099lg · April 2009

Thank you much... I'll check that out.

cptplt · April 2009

>Also, there is a button on the dash that reads "height" and it is flashing most of the time.
I had a 92 Legacy LS which had a pneumatic air suspension system, you hit a button and the suspension rose about 2 inches or something, it eventually started to leak and was always in the lower than "low " mode, maybe your vehicle has a similar system and thats the warning light.

ateixeira · April 2009

If you still had it I'd suggest trying to coast in neutral to see if the problem persisted. That takes the trans out of the equation.

I'm also guessing it's not the trans, but rather one of the diffs.

sergeii · May 2009

Hello! I'm new owner of 2008 subaru legacy SE(4h) I've purchased my car from a fleet auction. it's got 44.000 on it. I have this problem , that drives me crazy..

Everytime i come to a stop, you can feel a jerk forward when the transmission downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear, especially after the car has warmed up. Sometimes you can play around with the brake and avoid this thump, but it is very annoying. Shift's up with/out any problems really smooth.
I still have powertrain warranty on it.. may be i should take it to the dealer..
Does legacy has adaptive transmition? If it does what can i do to reset it..
Please ANY help.. what can it be?? what can i do about it? thank you.

xwesx · May 2009

It does have an adaptive transmission. You can rule that out by disconnecting the battery for ten or fifteen minutes, then reconnecting. That should reset the memory.

But, a fleet car with that many miles, there is no telling how it was driven in its short life or by how many drivers.

kenjc · May 2009

i reset my adaptive transmission for a very similar problem after deciding i couldn't stand it anymore. it got much better and that problem is now gone. also, could it possibly be a braking issue instead? i.e. i need to get my brakes done soon because the car is jerking several times to a stop as i apply the brakes instead of braking smoothly. the discs need sanding and smoothing apparently

sergeii · May 2009

did you just disconnect the battery and problem was gone?Or you have had to take to the dealer?

pgithaka · May 2009

I have a 2002 legacy, 2.0 auto transmission. Sweet vehicle to drive. However, when I load the gear, it gives a whistling sound, which isnt there when the engine runs on P or N. As I increase speed,the whistle becomes louder, till it shifts to the next gear where the whistling reduces but then does the same. On high speeds (around 80kph and above) the whistle is nearly unnoticeable. In addition, on very low speed like 5-10 kph, there seems to be some light knocking sound around the inner driveshaft, and when reversing. However the gears shift okay while in motion. What could be the problem?

ken37 · May 2009

I want to drain and refill 2001 outback automatic transmission. The dealer said a drain and refill would only result in a 4 quart replacement, since approx. 5 quarts left in the torque converter will not drain out. Subaru dealer wants $9 per quart. The manual calls for Dexron III. I can get this locally (Valvoline) for about $3 per quart. Any one know if mixing two types of ATF would create problems? Thanks.

hhmax · June 2009

New to the forum and subaru. Thinking of buying a 2000-2001 outback H6. Are there any major items/problems (like the 2.5 HG) that I should be watching for? In general what are the cost of ownership compared with the likes of accord/camry? I would expect to be higher but how much? Appreciate your feedback.

subarumom1 · July 2009

My Outback Wagon, with almost 126,000 miles, was at the dealer for maintenance. The work summary says "Tech noticed transmission leaking. The transmission harness is leaking by the O-ring." Per the service manager this harness is made of white plastic and when it gets old it easily cracks. He said my leak is spraying back onto the exhaust when I drive. They want over $500 to replace it. The car is running great and I saw no drips on the driveway. How urgent is this, are there options, is this price reasonable in CT? Thanks.

ksal17 · July 2009

I have a 99' Subaru Legacy GT Sedan that will randomly stop being able to shift into Drive or any of the lower gears. It will rev like its in Neutral. Very rarely when I touch the gas it will suddenly pop into drive and I'm fine. When I do get it into drive it shifts fluidly and it goes until I park and need to shift into drive again. The Fluid is topped off and it still shifts into reverse. Any Ideas?

ateixeira · July 2009

I guess it could be a very slow leak that had just started. Not even a drop?

Funny thing is the price actually sounds sort of low for a bad seal. They'll have to replace all the ATF when they are done.

tpatern1 · August 2009

I have a 2000 with the same problem have you had any luck solving this issue?

xwesx · August 2009

While it seems to be far more rare for other model years, I have read many instances of this exact problem in the '99 models. I am not sure if it was a (temporary) change in design or what, but there is a definite trend.

I think the problem is that the internal seals in the transmission are wearing out. Basically, the transmission is leaking inside and is having difficulty building up the proper operating pressure to shift into gear. Unfortunately, transmissions with this issue are headed for a rebuild....

ashevilleian · September 2009

Background info:
I bought a 2007 Subaru outback 2.5i with automatic with about 78,000 miles on it on 9/9/09. the test drive was perfect (though i was excited so i may have missed something) but later that same night, my car was dead so it had to be started using jumper cables and it happened again the next morning. I though i had a dud, but it turns out that stupid parking light switch on the steering column was turned on and had been on for some time (i didn't even know it existed until i called the dealer). I have a new battery and that problem is solved. but now, i have a new one. I don't know if this was occurring before the battery problem or not, but now when i'm driving most shifts feel perfect but every so often it feel like i ran over a speed bump when there is nothing there. it happens a lot on the highways and in the mountains but doesn't necessarily happen every time it shifts or for a certain gear but seems to happen most when i'm accelerating or decelerating. Any ideas?

I'm getting the ATF changed this week and will reset the computer to make sure it's not one of these "learned" behaviors.

Thanks

ateixeira · September 2009

It isn't necessarly the trans. Could be a bad wheel bearing or something, anything creating artificial resistance while it's moving.

I say wheel bearings because those are a common failure at that high mileage.

ashevilleian · September 2009

The dealer said he replaced the back ones. i guess maybe the front ones should be done next?

ateixeira · September 2009

They can inspect the front to see if they're bad. There would be some "play" in the wheels.

ashevilleian · September 2009

ok, so i was driving my new-used 2007 Subaru outback 2.5i a good deal this past weekend and tried to localize whatever is going on with it a bit more. I had the ATF changed at the Subaru dealer here in asheville but the problem is still occurring. it seems to occur most at higher speeds (between 60-70 mph) and not necessarily during a shift but more when i'm changing speeds. and it feels like i'm driving over one of those strips along the road meant to wake you up if you fall asleep. it only lasts about a second and goes away. it also seems to happen more during inclines. oh and the ball bearings are all fine. any ideas?

ateixeira · September 2009

That's a mystery because I would have guess wheel bearings next, and you say those are OK.

I would look at the front diff fluid and the rear diff fluid. Maybe drain and fill, and check the magnetic drain plug to see if any metal shavings came off. Basically looking for other symptoms.

Can you tell from which side of the car the noise is coming? Try to narrow it down to front vs. back, or the side.

saedave · September 2009

it only lasts about a second and goes away. it also seems to happen more during inclines. oh and the ball bearings are all fine. any ideas?

Is there anything loose under the car that could touch the drive shaft? exhaust pipe, muffler heat shield? Also anything that could touch a wheel...brake line, etc.

Could it be the cooling fan or something driven by the serpentine belt?

ashevilleian · September 2009

are the diff fluids easy to change by yourself?
it actually doesn't make a sound really, it just feels like i'm going over one of those strips along the side of the road and i would say it feels like it's coming from the front, but i'll try to localize it a bit more.

ashevilleian · September 2009

I'll check this, but i don't think so. and it doesn't happen all the time, just those times mentioned.

there are zero rattles or shakes anywhere in the car that i can hear. i hate when things rattle or squeak so i'm pretty quick to act when i do hear something.

xwesx · September 2009

No real sound, but you can feel it and it only happens when the gears shift. Perhaps I am way off base here, but I almost think there is an issue with the torque converter - perhaps the lock-up clutch? It would be an uncommon failure if this is the case, but it just seems like it has something to do with the operation of the transmission.

ashevilleian · September 2009

it doesn't actually just happen when the gears shift, just when i change speeds. could that be the problem if it's occurring at times it's not shifting? most shifts are good, it seems that it only happens when i'm rapidly speeding up. like if i was going up an incline on the highway and have to floor it (since it's the 2.5) to keep a constant speed, it'll happen. then after it does it, it might shift and some times it happens a couple times in a row.

Sorry if it's confusing, i really dont know much about cars and i don't want to go into the dealer to get them to check it out without having some idea. they will charge me a bunch of hours to figure it out.

ateixeira · September 2009

Rear is easy but you said the you thought the noise was coming from the front.

I've only done the front diff fluid on models with a manual trans, which shares fluid with the diff. I'm pretty sure AT models are different.

xwesx · September 2009

Oh..... but this is all very confusing.

Here was your first account of the situation: but now when i'm driving most shifts feel perfect but every so often it feel like i ran over a speed bump when there is nothing there. it happens a lot on the highways and in the mountains but doesn't necessarily happen every time it shifts or for a certain gear but seems to happen most when i'm accelerating or decelerating. Any ideas?

We have now moved past the "speed bump" scenario (which I must say is quite different) to rumble strips. But, still no sound, just a feel.

I must say it seems like engine hesitation, with all things considered. Do you know the maintenance history of the vehicle? Is this the one that was a dealer demo (I get my stories confused)? This may be something as simple as worn spark plugs, but without knowing if they were replaced yet, it is hard to say. Also, no codes in the system would likely steer away from that theory as well.

*sigh*

ashevilleian · September 2009

to make it even more interesting, i think it's doing both now. but it was first feeling like i hit a speed hump but after resetting the computer and getting ATF changed, now it's doing the rumble strips with a few speed bumps thrown in there (though they could be the same thing, i may just be paying more attention some times) and again neither of these happen all the time or very often and almost never during city driving.

Nope, no service records. its an 07 with 80k miles on it. i know i should just take the thing in to a dealer, but i really don't want to spend too much on the diagnosing part of it as it's $90 an hour. If there are no engine lights on, would it make any sense to hook a reader up to it? i have access to one if it would help at all.

greywrench · September 2009

Hi all, newbie on edmonds. im a gm tech but it does sound like torque convrter clutch. try driving steady at 50 mph for a bit and just touch brake pedal enough to light the brake lights but not enough to slow the vehicle and the tcc should release and when you let off brake the tcc should lock up again. if this what we call "shudder" returns on re apply then your problem is torque converter. hope this helps

ashevilleian · September 2009

great, thanks.
I will try that tonight

ashevilleian · September 2009

so i tried that last night and it didn't really do it. do you all think it could be a spark plug missing?

Subaru Legacy/Outback Transmission Problems

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